Consumptive Chic

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Consumptive Chic

Carolyn A. Day
Consumptive Chic Book PDF

Author : Carolyn A. Day
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 208 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2017-10-05
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350009400

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Consumptive Chic by Carolyn A. Day Pdf

During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, there was a tubercular 'moment' in which perceptions of the consumptive disease became inextricably tied to contemporary concepts of beauty, playing out in the clothing fashions of the day. With the ravages of the illness widely regarded as conferring beauty on the sufferer, it became commonplace to regard tuberculosis as a positive affliction, one to be emulated in both beauty practices and dress. While medical writers of the time believed that the fashionable way of life of many women actually rendered them susceptible to the disease, Carolyn A. Day investigates the deliberate and widespread flouting of admonitions against these fashion practices in the pursuit of beauty. Through an exploration of contemporary social trends and medical advice revealed in medical writing, literature and personal papers, Consumptive Chic uncovers the intimate relationship between fashionable women's clothing, and medical understandings of the illness. Illustrated with over 40 full color fashion plates, caricatures, medical images, and photographs of original garments, this is a compelling story of the intimate relationship between the body, beauty, and disease - and the rise of 'tubercular chic'.

Consumptive Chic

Carolyn A. Day
Consumptive Chic Book PDF

Author : Carolyn A. Day
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 241 pages
File Size : 42,5 Mb
Release : 2017-10-05
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350009370

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Consumptive Chic by Carolyn A. Day Pdf

During the late 18th and early 19th centuries, there was a tubercular 'moment' in which perceptions of the consumptive disease became inextricably tied to contemporary concepts of beauty, playing out in the clothing fashions of the day. With the ravages of the illness widely regarded as conferring beauty on the sufferer, it became commonplace to regard tuberculosis as a positive affliction, one to be emulated in both beauty practices and dress. While medical writers of the time believed that the fashionable way of life of many women actually rendered them susceptible to the disease, Carolyn A. Day investigates the deliberate and widespread flouting of admonitions against these fashion practices in the pursuit of beauty. Through an exploration of contemporary social trends and medical advice revealed in medical writing, literature and personal papers, Consumptive Chic uncovers the intimate relationship between fashionable women's clothing, and medical understandings of the illness. Illustrated with over 40 full color fashion plates, caricatures, medical images, and photographs of original garments, this is a compelling story of the intimate relationship between the body, beauty, and disease - and the rise of 'tubercular chic'.

The Age of Undress

Amelia Rauser
The Age of Undress Book PDF

Author : Amelia Rauser
Publisher : Yale University Press
Page : 217 pages
File Size : 42,9 Mb
Release : 2020-01-01
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780300241204

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The Age of Undress by Amelia Rauser Pdf

Exploring the popularity and meaning of neoclassical dress in the 1790s, this book traces its evolution in Europe and relationship to other artistic media.

Tuberculosis and the Victorian Literary Imagination

Katherine Byrne
Tuberculosis and the Victorian Literary Imagination Book PDF

Author : Katherine Byrne
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 235 pages
File Size : 55,5 Mb
Release : 2011
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9780521766678

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Tuberculosis and the Victorian Literary Imagination by Katherine Byrne Pdf

This book examines representations of tuberculosis in Victorian fiction, giving insights into how society viewed this disease and its sufferers.

Syphilis in Victorian Literature and Culture

Monika Pietrzak-Franger
Syphilis in Victorian Literature and Culture Book PDF

Author : Monika Pietrzak-Franger
Publisher : Springer
Page : 339 pages
File Size : 55,6 Mb
Release : 2017-06-08
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9783319495354

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Syphilis in Victorian Literature and Culture by Monika Pietrzak-Franger Pdf

This book addresses the evident but unexplored intertwining of visibility and invisibility in the discourses around syphilis. A rethinking of the disease with reference to its ambiguous status, and the ways of seeing that it generated, helps reconsider the network of socio-cultural and political interrelations which were negotiated through syphilis, thereby also raising larger questions about its function in the construction of individual, national and imperial identities. This book is the first large-scale interdisciplinary study of syphilis in late Victorian Britain whose significance lies in its unprecedented attention to the multimedia and multi-discursive evocations of syphilis. An examination of the heterogeneous sources that it offers, many of which have up to this point escaped critical attention, makes it possible to reveal the complex and poly-ideological reasons for the activation of syphilis imagery and its symbolic function in late Victorian culture.

Prostitution and Sex Work in Global Cinema

Danielle Hipkins,Kate Taylor-Jones
Prostitution and Sex Work in Global Cinema Book PDF

Author : Danielle Hipkins,Kate Taylor-Jones
Publisher : Springer
Page : 295 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2017-10-30
Category : Performing Arts
ISBN : 9783319646084

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Prostitution and Sex Work in Global Cinema by Danielle Hipkins,Kate Taylor-Jones Pdf

This volume brings together international scholars to engage in the question of how film has represented a figure that for many is simply labelled ‘prostitute’. The prostitute is one of the most enduring female figures. She has global historical resonance and stories, images and narratives surrounding her, and her experiences, circulate transnationally. As this book will explore, the broad term prostitute can cover a variety of experiences and representations that are both repressive and also have the potential to empower women and disrupt cultural expectations. The contributors aim to consider how frequently 19th-century narratives of female prostitution—hence the label ‘fallen women’—are still recycled in contemporary visual contexts, and to understand how widespread, and in what contexts, the destigmatization of female sex work is underway on screen.

My Year of Rest and Relaxation

Ottessa Moshfegh
My Year of Rest and Relaxation Book PDF

Author : Ottessa Moshfegh
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 189 pages
File Size : 45,9 Mb
Release : 2018-07-10
Category : Fiction
ISBN : 9780525522126

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My Year of Rest and Relaxation by Ottessa Moshfegh Pdf

From one of our boldest, most celebrated new literary voices, a novel about a young woman's efforts to duck the ills of the world by embarking on an extended hibernation with the help of one of the worst psychiatrists in the annals of literature and the battery of medicines she prescribes Our narrator should be happy, shouldn't she? She's young, thin, pretty, a recent Columbia graduate, works an easy job at a hip art gallery, lives in an apartment on the Upper East Side of Manhattan paid for, like the rest of her needs, by her inheritance. But there is a dark and vacuous hole in her heart, and it isn't just the loss of her parents, or the way her Wall Street boyfriend treats her, or her sadomasochistic relationship with her best friend, Reva. It's the year 2000 in a city aglitter with wealth and possibility; what could be so terribly wrong? My Year of Rest and Relaxation is a powerful answer to that question. Through the story of a year spent under the influence of a truly mad combination of drugs designed to heal our heroine from her alienation from this world, Moshfegh shows us how reasonable, even necessary, alienation can be. Both tender and blackly funny, merciless and compassionate, it is a showcase for the gifts of one of our major writers working at the height of her powers.

Improvising Theory

Allaine Cerwonka,Liisa H. Malkki
Improvising Theory Book PDF

Author : Allaine Cerwonka,Liisa H. Malkki
Publisher : University of Chicago Press
Page : 432 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2008-11-15
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9780226100289

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Improvising Theory by Allaine Cerwonka,Liisa H. Malkki Pdf

Scholars have long recognized that ethnographic method is bound up with the construction of theory in ways that are difficult to teach. The reason, Allaine Cerwonka and Liisa H. Malkki argue, is that ethnographic theorization is essentially improvisatory in nature, conducted in real time and in necessarily unpredictable social situations. In a unique account of, and critical reflection on, the process of theoretical improvisation in ethnographic research, they demonstrate how both objects of analysis, and our ways of knowing and explaining them, are created and discovered in the give and take of real life, in all its unpredictability and immediacy. Improvising Theory centers on the year-long correspondence between Cerwonka, then a graduate student in political science conducting research in Australia, and her anthropologist mentor, Malkki. Through regular e-mail exchanges, Malkki attempted to teach Cerwonka, then new to the discipline, the basic tools and subtle intuition needed for anthropological fieldwork. The result is a strikingly original dissection of the processual ethics and politics of method in ethnography.

Queen Victoria's Skull

David Stack
Queen Victoria s Skull Book PDF

Author : David Stack
Publisher : Bloomsbury Continuum
Page : 376 pages
File Size : 49,8 Mb
Release : 2008-08-02
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : IND:30000123211454

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Queen Victoria's Skull by David Stack Pdf

A hugely entertaining study that goes beyond biography to vividly portray Victorian life in a wider framework.

The White Death

Thomas Dormandy
The White Death Book PDF

Author : Thomas Dormandy
Publisher : Burns & Oates
Page : 433 pages
File Size : 41,8 Mb
Release : 2002-03-01
Category : Medical
ISBN : 1852853328

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The White Death by Thomas Dormandy Pdf

The victims of tuberculosis (usually known as consumption) included not only Keats, The Brontës, Chopin and Chekhov, but members of almost every family. It was a killer on a huge scale. The White Death is an outstanding history of tuberculosis. Thomas Dormandy's engrossing account of the search for a cure is complemented by a description of its complex natural history and by portraits of individual sufferers, including writers, artists, and musicians, whose lives and work were shaped (and often tragically curtailed) by the disease. But, tuberculosis is not just a disease of the past. In many parts of the world it is still a bigger killer than AIDS, while in America and Europe drug-resistant strains threaten its resurgence.

The Places Where Community Is Practiced

Anna Steigemann
The Places Where Community Is Practiced Book PDF

Author : Anna Steigemann
Publisher : Springer
Page : 325 pages
File Size : 43,5 Mb
Release : 2019-02-25
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9783658253936

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The Places Where Community Is Practiced by Anna Steigemann Pdf

In this open access publication, the social cohesion of urban neighborhoods and their residents is examined, which is often viewed as vulnerable since increased mobility, individualization, wider socio-economic and demographic changes have fundamentally altered the basis for everyday social interaction in urban neighborhoods. Anna Steigemann gives scholarly attention to the concrete places where neighborly interactions still take place and to how these interactions affect local community building. She illuminates and explores the ordinary everyday interactions and social practices in and around shops and gastronomic facilities on a shopping street in Berlin-Neukölln, revealing how these businesses are important places where community is practiced, but also why they are increasingly threatened by commercial and residential gentrification.

Victorian Women, Unwed Mothers and the London Foundling Hospital

Jessica A. Sheetz-Nguyen
Victorian Women Unwed Mothers and the London Foundling Hospital Book PDF

Author : Jessica A. Sheetz-Nguyen
Publisher : A&C Black
Page : 272 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2012-07-05
Category : History
ISBN : 9781441141125

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Victorian Women, Unwed Mothers and the London Foundling Hospital by Jessica A. Sheetz-Nguyen Pdf

Sex, gender, charity and class in Victorian Britain.

Fashionopolis

Dana Thomas
Fashionopolis Book PDF

Author : Dana Thomas
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 322 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2019-09-03
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9780735224025

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Fashionopolis by Dana Thomas Pdf

*NYTBR Paperback Row Selection * The Independent's Best Fashion Book on Sustainability* An investigation into the damage wrought by the colossal clothing industry and the grassroots, high-tech, international movement fighting to reform it What should I wear? It’s one of the fundamental questions we ask ourselves every day. More than ever, we are told it should be something new. Today, the clothing industry churns out 80 billion garments a year and employs every sixth person on Earth. Historically, the apparel trade has exploited labor, the environment, and intellectual property—and in the last three decades, with the simultaneous unfurling of fast fashion, globalization, and the tech revolution, those abuses have multiplied exponentially, primarily out of view. We are in dire need of an entirely new human-scale model. Bestselling journalist Dana Thomas has traveled the globe to discover the visionary designers and companies who are propelling the industry toward that more positive future by reclaiming traditional craft and launching cutting-edge sustainable technologies to produce better fashion. In Fashionopolis, Thomas sees renewal in a host of developments, including printing 3-D clothes, clean denim processing, smart manufacturing, hyperlocalism, fabric recycling—even lab-grown materials. From small-town makers and Silicon Valley whizzes to such household names as Stella McCartney, Levi’s, and Rent the Runway, Thomas highlights the companies big and small that are leading the crusade. We all have been casual about our clothes. It's time to get dressed with intention. Fashionopolis is the first comprehensive look at how to start.

The Beautiful Generation

Thuy Linh N. Tu
The Beautiful Generation Book PDF

Author : Thuy Linh N. Tu
Publisher : Duke University Press
Page : 271 pages
File Size : 44,5 Mb
Release : 2011
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780822349136

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The Beautiful Generation by Thuy Linh N. Tu Pdf

This ethnography of Asian American designers in New Yorks fashion industry explores their relations to the garment workers who produce their goods and to Asianness as a fashionable commodity.

meXicana Fashions

Aída Hurtado,Norma E. Cantú
meXicana Fashions Book PDF

Author : Aída Hurtado,Norma E. Cantú
Publisher : University of Texas Press
Page : 337 pages
File Size : 49,8 Mb
Release : 2020-01-10
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781477319598

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meXicana Fashions by Aída Hurtado,Norma E. Cantú Pdf

Collecting the perspectives of scholars who reflect on their own relationships to particular garments, analyze the politics of dress, and examine the role of consumerism and entrepreneurialism in the production of creating and selling a style, meXicana Fashions examines and searches for meaning in these visible, performative aspects of identity. Focusing primarily on Chicanas but also considering trends connected to other Latin American communities, the authors highlight specific constituencies that are defined by region (“Tejana style,” “L.A. style”), age group (“homie,” “chola”), and social class (marked by haute couture labels such as Carolina Herrera and Oscar de la Renta). The essays acknowledge the complex layers of these styles, which are not mutually exclusive but instead reflect a range of intersections in occupation, origin, personality, sexuality, and fads. Other elements include urban indigenous fashion shows, the shifting quinceañera market, “walking altars” on the Days of the Dead, plus-size clothing, huipiles in the workplace, and dressing in drag. Together, these chapters illuminate the full array of messages woven into a vibrant social fabric.