Delft Blue To Denim Blue

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Delft Blue to Denim Blue

Anneke Smelik
Delft Blue to Denim Blue Book PDF

Author : Anneke Smelik
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 304 pages
File Size : 48,7 Mb
Release : 2017-04-06
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781838608354

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Delft Blue to Denim Blue by Anneke Smelik Pdf

Contemporary fashion in the Netherlands shows a unique mix of playful individualism, conceptual strength, and organisational innovation. Delft Blue to Denim Blue maps the landscape of Dutch fashion in all its rich variety and complexity.Luxuriously illustrated in colour, the book uncovers the cultural roots of Dutch fashion in a globalized context. The authors debunk myths surrounding Dutch fashion, dig up new facts and stories, and explore the creative relation of fashion design to cultural heritage. Written by experts in the field, Delft Blue to Denim Blue gives a rich overview of designers, ranging from G-Star jeans, and affordable retailer C&A, to a savvy brand like Vanilia, and from the famous designer duo Viktor&Rolf to a futuristic designer like Iris van Herpen. The book assesses the diversity of Dutch fashion designers, firms and brands in their historical and cultural contexts.

Thinking Through Fashion

Agnès Rocamora,Anneke Smelik
Thinking Through Fashion Book PDF

Author : Agnès Rocamora,Anneke Smelik
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 47,6 Mb
Release : 2015-10-23
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9780857739865

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Thinking Through Fashion by Agnès Rocamora,Anneke Smelik Pdf

Learning how to think through fashion is both exciting and challenging, being dependent on one's ability to critically engage with an array of theories and concepts. This is the first book designed to accompany readers through the process of thinking through fashion. It aims to help them grasp both the relevance of social and cultural theory to fashion, dress, and material culture and, conversely, the relevance of those fields to social and cultural theory. It does so by offering a guide through the work of selected major thinkers, introducing their concepts and ideas. Each chapter is written by an expert contributor and is devoted to a key thinker, capturing the significance of their thought to the understanding of the field of fashion, while also assessing the importance of this field for a critical engagement with these thinkers' ideas. This is a guide and reference for students and scholars in the fields of fashion, dress and material culture, the creative industries, sociology, cultural history, design and cultural studies.

Fashion in Multiple Chinas

Wessie Ling,Simona Segre-Reinach
Fashion in Multiple Chinas Book PDF

Author : Wessie Ling,Simona Segre-Reinach
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 288 pages
File Size : 55,6 Mb
Release : 2018-04-20
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781838608514

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Fashion in Multiple Chinas by Wessie Ling,Simona Segre-Reinach Pdf

Much has been written about the transformation of China from being a clothing-manufacturing site to a fast-rate fashion consuming society. Less, however, has been written on the process of making Chinese fashion. The expert contributors to Fashion in Multiple Chinas explore how the many Chinese fashions operate across the widespread, fragmented and diffused, Chinese diaspora. They confront the idea of Chinese nationalism as `one nation', as well as of China as a single reality, in revealing the realities of Chinese fashion as diverse and comprising multiple practices. They also demonstrate how the making of Chinese fashion is composed of numerous layers, often involving a web of global entanglements between manufacturing and circulation, retailing and branding. They cover the mechanics of the PRC fashion industry, the creative economy of Chinese fashion, its retail and branding, and the cultural identity of Chinese fashion from the diasporas comprising the transglobal landscape of fashion production.

Materializing Memory in Art and Popular Culture

Laszlo Muntean,Liedeke Plate,Anneke Smelik
Materializing Memory in Art and Popular Culture Book PDF

Author : Laszlo Muntean,Liedeke Plate,Anneke Smelik
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
Page : 220 pages
File Size : 48,6 Mb
Release : 2016-12-08
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781315472164

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Materializing Memory in Art and Popular Culture by Laszlo Muntean,Liedeke Plate,Anneke Smelik Pdf

Memory matters. It matters because memory brings the past into the present, and opens it up to the future. But it also matters literally, because memory is mediated materially. Materiality is the stuff of memory. Meaningful objects that we love (or hate) function not only as aide-mémoire but are integral to memory. Drawing on previous scholarship on the interrelation of memory and materiality, this book applies recent theories of new materialism to explore the material dimension of memory in art and popular culture. The book’s underlying premise is twofold: on the one hand, memory is performed, mediated, and stored through the material world that surrounds us; on the other hand, inanimate objects and things also have agency on their own, which affects practices of memory, as well as forgetting. By accounting for the material world as a medium through which acts of remembering and forgetting take place, the chapters of this book offer new insights on such topics as the study of ruins, the exchange and circulation of souvenirs, digitization and the Internet of Things, fashion and technology, as well as the material dimensions of corporeality and traumatic re-enactment.

Fashion in European Art

Justine De Young
Fashion in European Art Book PDF

Author : Justine De Young
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 288 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2017-05-30
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781786722249

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Fashion in European Art by Justine De Young Pdf

Fashion reveals not only who we are, but whom we aspire to be. From 1775 to 1925, artists in Europe were especially attuned to the gaps between appearance and reality, participating in and often critiquing the making of the self and the image. Reading their portrayals of modern life with an eye to fashion and dress reveals a world of complex calculations and subtle signals. Extensively illustrated, Fashion in European Art explores the significance of historical dress over this period of upheaval, as well as the lived experience of dress and its representation. Drawing on visual sources that extend from paintings and photographs to fashion plates, caricatures and advertisements, the expert contributors consider how artists and their sitters engaged with the fashion and culture of their times. They explore the politics of dress, its inspirations and the reactions it provoked, as well as the many meanings of fashion in European art, revealing its importance in understanding modernity itself.

Doing Gender in Media, Art and Culture

Rosemarie Buikema,Liedeke Plate,Kathrin Thiele
Doing Gender in Media Art and Culture Book PDF

Author : Rosemarie Buikema,Liedeke Plate,Kathrin Thiele
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 681 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 2017-10-03
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781351974820

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Doing Gender in Media, Art and Culture by Rosemarie Buikema,Liedeke Plate,Kathrin Thiele Pdf

Doing Gender in Media, Art and Culture, 2nd edition is a comprehensive gender studies textbook with an international focus and relevance across a broad range of academic disciplines. Covering an array of topics, theories and approaches to gender studies, it introduces students to the study of gender through geographically diverse case studies on different historical and contemporary figures. The volume covers the established canon of gender studies, including questions of representation, standpoints and intersectionality. It addresses emerging areas including religion, technology and online feminist engagement, as well as complex contemporary phenomena such as globalization, neoliberalism and ‘fundamentalism’. Core figures ranging from Simone de Beauvoir to Gloria Anzaldua and from Florence Nightingale to Malala Yousafzai serve as prisms of gender-sensitive analysis for each chapter. This vibrant textbook is essential reading for anyone in need of an accessible yet sophisticated guide to gender studies today.

Fashion in Altermodern China

Feng Jie
Fashion in Altermodern China Book PDF

Author : Feng Jie
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 177 pages
File Size : 50,6 Mb
Release : 2022-03-24
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781350200098

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Fashion in Altermodern China by Feng Jie Pdf

Fashion in Altermodern China examines key features of women's fashion within the cultural and political context of contemporary China. While global brands and styles heavily influence Chinese consumer trends, the Chinese fashion 'system' is formed of its own internal logics and emergent trends, too. Adopting the theoretical term 'altermodern', Feng Jie encourages us to view China in terms of its rapid modernization which presents its own rhythms and meanings, and argues persuasively that Chinese fashion can't be wholly understood in terms of a Western discourse of modernity, postmodernity and the global. Expanding our understanding of the fashion 'system', Fashion in Altermodern China takes on board new trends in global trade, new technologies, and the hybridity of designs and consumption of fashion. Through critical readings of Barthes, on the 'neutral', and Jullien, on 'blandness', both directly influenced by Asian philosophies, the author offers a new perspective on Chinese fashion, arguing that, while global-local contexts lead to identifiably postmodern and hybrid aesthetics, for women in contemporary China the flux and mix of available fashions is experienced in a more open neutral manner than scholars have previously described. Crucially, then, rather than position trends in China only in terms of 'hybridity' (which betrays a Western bias and a binary logic of host-recipient), there are more fluid ways in which we need to understand how women engage in fashion in China today.

Fashioning Indie

Rachel Lifter
Fashioning Indie Book PDF

Author : Rachel Lifter
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 224 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2019-10-31
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781350126336

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Fashioning Indie by Rachel Lifter Pdf

In 2005, British supermodel Kate Moss went to Glastonbury with her then-boyfriend, indie rocker Pete Doherty. Their unwashed appearance captured widespread attention, propelling the British indie music scene and its signature look-slender bodies clad in skinny jeans-to the center of popular fashion. Using this fashionable watershed as a launching point, Fashioning Indie narrates indie's evolution: from a 1980s British music subculture into a 21st-century international fashion phenomenon. It explores the lucrative transformation of indie style, first into high concept menswear and later into “festival fashion”-a womenswear phenomenon that remade what indie looked like and provided a launching point to reimagine who the ideal subject of indie could be. Fashioning Indie is essential reading for academic and popular audiences, offering an original account of what happens when a subculture is incorporated into the commercial fashion system. As the music and fashions of festivals face increasing scrutiny in debates about diversity and inclusion, and the transformations of indie style coincide with the global expansion of the second-hand retail sector, the book offers also essential insights into the broader culture of popular fashion in the 21st century and the values that inform it.

Design History and Culture

Javier Gimeno-Martínez
Design History and Culture Book PDF

Author : Javier Gimeno-Martínez
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
Page : 280 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2024-07-26
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781040044575

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Design History and Culture by Javier Gimeno-Martínez Pdf

This student-friendly text provides a comprehensive exploration of the methods and approaches employed within design scholarship, drawing upon influences from history, art history, anthropology and interdisciplinary studies such as science and technology studies and material culture studies. Drawing connections between these methods and the evolving landscape of design, the book expands design culture beyond traditional outcomes to encompass areas like design for social innovation, digital design, critical design, design anthropology and craftivism. Additionally, the book introduces novel theoretical frameworks to facilitate discussions on contemporary designers’ work, including new materialism, object-oriented ontology and decolonization. This comprehensive overview of methods and approaches will enable students to select the most appropriate methodological tools for their own research. It is an ideal guide for both undergraduate and postgraduate students in design, design culture, design history, design studies and visual culture.

Fashioned in the North

Anna Dahlgren
Fashioned in the North Book PDF

Author : Anna Dahlgren
Publisher : Nordic Academic Press
Page : 204 pages
File Size : 55,6 Mb
Release : 2020-07-15
Category : Photography
ISBN : 9789188909107

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Fashioned in the North by Anna Dahlgren Pdf

This edited volume showcases new examples - previously untold stories of images, photographers, publications, and institutions - partly unknown outside the Nordic countries. The authors examine the reasons for and implications of this underexposure, taking on a photographic metaphor. While simultaneously challenging previously taken-for-granted ideas of the center and periphery in this field, the book also widens the study of fashion photography. Notably, the hybridity of approaches may enrich future studies of fashion photography. In Fashioned in the North, fashion photography is viewed as a transnational phenomenon and a material object, as well as a medium that is part of a media system and a result of archival systems and history writings. Furthermore, the book displays how studies of fashion photography can be so much more than stories of a few names and iconic images or studies of individual and periodic style. Indeed, the study of fashion photography may be a prism through which we can uncover cultural, social, economic, and ideological aspects of society at present and in the past.

Silhouettes of the Soul

Otto Von Busch,Jeanine Viau
Silhouettes of the Soul Book PDF

Author : Otto Von Busch,Jeanine Viau
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 217 pages
File Size : 53,8 Mb
Release : 2022-02-10
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350179929

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Silhouettes of the Soul by Otto Von Busch,Jeanine Viau Pdf

What is the relationship between the soul, or inner life, and what we wear in the making of identity and belief? What bearing do religious and political belonging, respectability, and resistance have on the way in which we dress? Why have more traditional religious practices been so prescriptive about body adornment? Historically, fashionable dress and religion have been positioned as polar opposites. Silhouettes of the Soul brings them together, placing them in conversation with each other. By moving beyond traditional, social scientific, and historical analysis of religious attire and adornment the book presents a variety of disciplinary approaches from across regional, social, and religious locations. Contentious and challenging, as well as academically rigorous, the book's diverse range of contributors - from fashion and religious studies scholars, to designers, activists, monastics, and journalists - explore the relationship between religion and fashion, extending the meanings and possibilities of both dress and spirituality. Combining interviews and personal stories with more traditional theoretical analysis, Silhouettes of the Soul offers new ways of looking at the relationship between religion, personal convictions, and self-expression - our sense of self and our sense of fashion.

The End of Fashion

Adam Geczy,Vicki Karaminas
The End of Fashion Book PDF

Author : Adam Geczy,Vicki Karaminas
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 53,6 Mb
Release : 2018-11-01
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781350045064

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The End of Fashion by Adam Geczy,Vicki Karaminas Pdf

Attitudes to fashion have changed radically in the twenty-first century. Dress is increasingly approached as a means of self-expression, rather than as a signifier of status or profession, and designers are increasingly treated as 'artists', as fashion moves towards art and enters the gallery, museum, and retail space. This book is the first to fully explore the causes and implications of this shift, examining the impact of technological innovation, globalization, and the growth of the internet. The End of Fashion focuses on the ways in which our understanding of fashion and the fashion system have transformed as mass mediation and digitization continue to broaden the way that contemporary fashion is perceived and consumed. Exploring everything from the rise of online shopping to the emergence of bloggers as power elites who have revolutionized the terrain of traditional fashion reportage, this volume anatomizes a world in which runway shows now compete with live-streaming, digital fashion films, Instagram, and Pinterest. Bringing together original, cutting-edge contributions from leading international scholars, this book is essential reading for students and scholars of fashion and cultural studies, as well as anyone interested in exploring the dramatic shifts that have shaken the fashion world this century – and what they might say about larger changes within an increasingly global and digital society.

Jews in Suits

Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum
Jews in Suits Book PDF

Author : Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 297 pages
File Size : 48,7 Mb
Release : 2023-05-04
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781350244238

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Jews in Suits by Jonathan C. Kaplan-Wajselbaum Pdf

Surviving photographs of Jewish Viennese men during the fin-de-siècle and interwar periods – both the renowned cultural luminaries and their many anonymous coreligionists – all share a striking sartorial detail: the tailored suit. Yet, until now, the adoption of the tailored suit and its function in the formation of modern Jewish identities remains under-researched. Jews in Suits uses a rich range of written and visual sources, including literary fiction and satire, 'ego-documents', photography, trade catalogues, invoices, and department store culture, to propose a new narrative of men, fashion, and their Jewish identities. It reveals that dressing in a modern manner was not simply a matter of assimilation, but rather a way of developing new models of Jewish subjectivity beyond the externally prescribed notion of 'the Jew'. Drawing upon fashionable dress, folk costume, religious dress, avant-garde, oppositional dress, typologies which are often considered separate from one another, it proposes a new way of reading men and clothing cultures within an iconic cultural milieu, offering insights into the relationship of clothing and grooming to the understanding of the self.

Fashion Before Plus-Size

Lauren Downing Peters
Fashion Before Plus Size Book PDF

Author : Lauren Downing Peters
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 217 pages
File Size : 46,9 Mb
Release : 2023-06-15
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781350172562

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Fashion Before Plus-Size by Lauren Downing Peters Pdf

In 2022, it was reported that plus-sizes accounted for nearly twenty percent of all women's apparel sales in the United States and was one of the industry's few growth sectors. For many, this news seemed to herald a remarkably inclusive turn for an industry that long bartered in exclusivity. Yet the recent success of plus-size fashion obscures a rather complicated history–one that can be traced back over a century, and which illuminates the fraught relationship between fashion, fat, and weight bias in American culture. Although many regard fat as a malady of the present, in the early twentieth century it was estimated that more than one-third of American women classified as “overweight.” While modern weight bias had yet to fully cement itself in the American imaginary, the limitations of mass garment manufacturing coupled with the ascendent slender beauty ideal had already relegated larger women to fashion's peripheries. By 1915, however, fashion forecasters predicted that so-called “stoutwear” was well positioned to become one of the most lucrative subsectors of the burgeoning ready-to-wear trade. In the years that followed, stoutwear manufacturers set out to create more space for the fat woman in fashion but, in doing so, revealed an ancillary motivation: that of how to design fat out of existence altogether. Fashion Before Plus-Size considers what came “before” plus-size fashion while also shedding new light on the ways that the fashion industry not only perpetuates but produces weight bias. By situating stoutwear at the confluence of mass manufacturing, beauty ideals, standardized sizing, health discourse, and consumer culture, this book exposes the flawed foundations upon which the contemporary plus-size fashion industry has been built.

Wearing the Cheongsam

Cheryl Sim
Wearing the Cheongsam Book PDF

Author : Cheryl Sim
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 208 pages
File Size : 43,6 Mb
Release : 2019-09-19
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350109865

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Wearing the Cheongsam by Cheryl Sim Pdf

Associations between the cheongsam dress and Chinese cultural identity are well known but what are the meanings of the cheongsam for members of the Chinese diaspora? In a study grounded in first-hand accounts of wearing, Cheryl Sim explores the practices and experiences of women in Canada, a major Chinese diaspora, and carries out the first in-depth study of the cheongsam from this critical point of view. Questions explored over the course of 20 interviews, as well as during personal reflections on the author's own experiences of wearing, include: is there a desire to re-claim or appropriate the cheongsam? Does this desire risk perpetuating stereotypes of Asian women? Does it undermine one's identification with one's host country? Can erased heritage(s) be accessed through dress? And how does wearing the cheongsam interact with the male gaze? Revealing feelings of repulsion and attraction, Sim combines personal stories with an authoritative use of theoretical frameworks such as feminism, post-colonialism and autoethnography. Covering issues such as heritage, ethnic identity, authenticity, nationalism, patriarchy and assimilation, Sim demonstrates that the meanings of the cheongsam are multifarious. Readable but with strong academic underpinnings, this book is the entry point into discussions of Chinese dress and diaspora.