Dress Culture In Late Victorian Women S Fiction

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Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women's Fiction

Christine Bayles Kortsch
Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women s Fiction Book PDF

Author : Christine Bayles Kortsch
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 227 pages
File Size : 45,8 Mb
Release : 2016-05-13
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781317147992

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Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women's Fiction by Christine Bayles Kortsch Pdf

In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Brontë, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.

Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women's Fiction

Christine Bayles Kortsch
Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women s Fiction Book PDF

Author : Christine Bayles Kortsch
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 212 pages
File Size : 41,6 Mb
Release : 2016-05-13
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781317148005

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Dress Culture in Late Victorian Women's Fiction by Christine Bayles Kortsch Pdf

In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Brontë, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.

Dress and Identity in British Literary Culture, 1870-1914

Rosy Aindow
Dress and Identity in British Literary Culture 1870 1914 Book PDF

Author : Rosy Aindow
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 182 pages
File Size : 40,5 Mb
Release : 2016-12-05
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781351942942

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Dress and Identity in British Literary Culture, 1870-1914 by Rosy Aindow Pdf

Rosy Aindow examines the way fiction registered and responded to the emergence of a modern fashion industry during the period 1870-1914. She traces the role played by dress in the formation of literary identities, with specific attention to the way that an engagement with fashionable clothing was understood to be a means of class emulation. The expansion of the fashion industry in the second half of the nineteenth century is generally considered to have had a significant impact on the way in which lower income groups, in particular, encountered clothing: many were able to participate in fashionable consumption for the first time. Remaining alert to the historical specificity of these events, this study argues that the cultural perception of the expansion of the industry - namely a predominantly bourgeois fear that it would result in a democratisation in dress - had a profound effect on the way in which fashion was approached by contemporary writers. Drawing on existing cultural analogies that associated fashion with women and artifice, it concludes that women were particularly implicated in fictional accounts of class mobility. This transgression applied not only to women who wore fashionable clothing, but to those working in the fashion industry itself. An allusion to fashion has a socio-specific meaning, one which gained a new potency in late nineteenth- and early twentieth-century narratives as a vehicle for the expression of class anxieties.

Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction

Danielle Mariann Dove
Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction Book PDF

Author : Danielle Mariann Dove
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 211 pages
File Size : 44,8 Mb
Release : 2023-10-19
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781350294691

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Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction by Danielle Mariann Dove Pdf

Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction is the first full-length study to investigate and attend to the deeply suggestive and highly symbolic iterations of Victorian women's dress in the contemporary cultural imagination. Drawing upon a range of popular and less well-studied neo-Victorian novels published between 1990 and 2014, as well as their Victorian counterparts, 19th-century illustrative material, and extant Victorian garments, Danielle Dove explores the creative possibilities afforded by dress and fashion as gendered sites of agency and affect. Focusing on the relationship between texts and textiles, she demonstrates how dress is central to the narrativization, re-formulation, and re-fashioning of the material past in the present. In its examination of the narrative trajectories, lively vitalities, and material entanglements that accrue to, and originate from, dress in the neo-Victorian novel, this study brings a fresh approach to reading Victorian sartorial culture. For researchers and students of Victorian and neo-Victorian studies, dress history, material culture, and gender studies, this volume offers a rich resource with which to illuminate the power of fashion in fiction.

Fashion and Material Culture in Victorian Fiction and Periodicals

Janine Hatter,Nickianne Moody
Fashion and Material Culture in Victorian Fiction and Periodicals Book PDF

Author : Janine Hatter,Nickianne Moody
Publisher : New Paths in Victorian Literature and Culture
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 50,6 Mb
Release : 2019
Category : Clothing and dress
ISBN : 1912224682

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Fashion and Material Culture in Victorian Fiction and Periodicals by Janine Hatter,Nickianne Moody Pdf

This attractively illustrated new collaborative work examines dress, style and performance as a significant pleasure of fiction. It illuminates many significant factors of Victorian life. The book examines the ways in which Victorian writers, illustrators, periodicals, designers and clothing manufacturers have critiqued the social ideologies inherent in dress, fashion and imaginative engagement with clothes. This is the first volume in the New Paths in Victorian Popular Fiction and Culture series being published by EER. The series comprises specially commissioned work based on innovative or under-researched perspectives on Victorian literature and culture. As an aesthetic medium, fashion expresses a person's life course, their ideas, desires and beliefs, and fiction itself is a site where these issues can be resolved. Not only were fictional characters made recognisable through their dress, but readers of serial fiction encountered them in between adverts, cartoons, print and patterns. Thus, how dress is depicted in fiction responds to its material paratext. Victorian dress and literature equally licensed or discouraged particular forms of clothing, fantasies and moralities about men and women, as well as distinctions between generations. As a result, this volume's multidisciplinary approach engages with theoretical perspectives on dress history, periodical publications, archives and dress. The book is shaped in four distinct sections. Writers engage with fashion and material culture using an interdisciplinary methodology, as well as through fashion's multiple performances as depicted in text, image and design. Part 1, 'Fashion and Hierarchies of Knowledge' examines how periodicals, journalism and couture established 'fashion' as a discipline. Part 2's 'Artistic Engagement with Fashion's Material Culture' focuses on how fabric, printed patterns and illustrations critique social constructions of beauty and femininity. Part 3, 'Conduct and Clothing', considers novelistic depictions of fashion with regard to scientific, racial and gender identities. These are cross-related to reader consumption and behaviour. Part 4, 'Consumption and Fashionable Performance', examines periodicals, genres and drama as performative in their own right.

Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction

Danielle Mariann Dove
Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction Book PDF

Author : Danielle Mariann Dove
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 53,8 Mb
Release : 2023
Category : Clothing and dress in literature
ISBN : 1350294713

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Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction by Danielle Mariann Dove Pdf

Victorian Dress in Contemporary Historical Fiction is the first full-length study to investigate and attend to the deeply suggestive and highly symbolic iterations of Victorian women's dress in the contemporary cultural imagination. Drawing upon a range of popular and less well-studied neo-Victorian novels published between 1990 and 2014, as well as their Victorian counterparts, 19th-century illustrative material, and extant Victorian garments, Danielle Dove explores the creative possibilities afforded by dress and fashion as gendered sites of agency and affect. Focusing on the relationship between texts and textiles, she demonstrates how dress is central to the narrativization, re-formulation, and re-fashioning of the material past in the present. In its examination of the narrative trajectories, lively vitalities, and material entanglements that accrue to, and originate from, dress in the neo-Victorian novel, this study brings a fresh approach to reading Victorian sartorial culture. For researchers and students of Victorian and neo-Victorian studies, dress history, material culture, and gender studies, this volume offers a rich resource with which to illuminate the power of fashion in fiction.

The Significance of Fabrics in the Writings of Elizabeth Gaskell

Amanda Ford
The Significance of Fabrics in the Writings of Elizabeth Gaskell Book PDF

Author : Amanda Ford
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
Page : 208 pages
File Size : 42,8 Mb
Release : 2022-12-30
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781000816297

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The Significance of Fabrics in the Writings of Elizabeth Gaskell by Amanda Ford Pdf

Elizabeth Gaskell’s writings abound in references to a cultural materiality encompassing different types of fabric, stuffs, calicoes, chintzes and fine-point lace. These are not merely the motifs of the Realist genre but reveal a complex polysemy. Utilizing a metonymic examination of these tropes, this volume exposes the dramatic structural and socio-economic upheaval generated by industrialization, urbanization and the widening sphere of empire. The material evidence testifies to the technological and production innovations evolving diachronically for the period, and the evolution of Manchester as the industrial ‘Cottonpolis’ that clothed the world by the 1840s. This volume analyses Gaskell’s manipulation of the materiality, arguing its firm roots lie in the quotidian of women’s domestic and provincial life within the growing ranks of the middle classes. Exploring Gaskell’s tactile imagination, an embodied relationship with fabrics and sewing, a function of her daily life from an early age, this volume provides insight into the sensory aspects of cloth and its ability to stir affective responses, emotions and memories, whereby worn fabrics and even the absence of previous textile treasures, is poignant, recreating layers of recollection. This book aims to restore the pulsating, dynamic context of ordinary women’s dressed lives and presents innovative interpretations of Gaskell’s texts.

Women's Handiwork

Christine Bayles Kortsch
Women s Handiwork Book PDF

Author : Christine Bayles Kortsch
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 53,9 Mb
Release : 2006
Category : Dressmaking
ISBN : 0542726270

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Women's Handiwork by Christine Bayles Kortsch Pdf

Throughout the Victorian period, British women of all classes were expected to know how to 'work'---that is, to sew, knit, embroider, or do needlework of some kind. With the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891, the privilege of instruction in print literary was extended to more and more of the populace. Despite the changes this legislation initiated, Victorian women of all classes continued to receive instruction in dress culture, what I define as the interrelated skills of constructing and interpreting clothing. How they experienced the acts of sewing and reading clothing, not to mention what kind of sewing they did, varied widely, but all Victorian women were presumed to demonstrate some level of literacy in both print and dress culture. This dual literacy, I argue, created modes of communication that linked women writers and their readers in an imagined community. At the fin de siècle, however, the definition of 'women's work' was under intense scrutiny. New Woman novelists, in particular, struggled to broaden women's opportunities in the public sphere and to modify the domestic, realistic novel. Given these radical aims, it seems probable that the traditionally private, unpaid, domestic labor of dress culture would have provided little inspiration. This study aims to prove that, on the contrary, dress culture offered New Woman writers a richly textured language for addressing an imagined community of female readers. Anticipating, and indeed relying on, women's dual literary, these writers used that literacy to expose, complicate, and redefine women's class differences, social activism, and literary tradition, as well as the limits of imagined community itself. Women's Handiwork considers the material history of Victorian women's dress culture along with fiction by Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Sarah Grand, Gertrude Dix, and Margaret Oliphant. Rather than rejecting women's dress culture as tedious drudgery or brainless frippery, the late-Victorian writers I consider instead used dual literacy to valorize women's dress culture as an artistic, nurturing, and community-building activity closely tied to the work of literary composition.

Fashion and Narrative in Victorian Popular Literature

Madeleine C. Seys
Fashion and Narrative in Victorian Popular Literature Book PDF

Author : Madeleine C. Seys
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 196 pages
File Size : 55,5 Mb
Release : 2017-08-10
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781351747196

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Fashion and Narrative in Victorian Popular Literature by Madeleine C. Seys Pdf

We know that way we dress says a lot about us. It’s drilled into us by our parents as children, as adults throughout our working lives, and eternally from the culture surrounding us. Our dress tells the outside world of the culture and era we come from to our social status within that culture. Our dress can be telling of our political views, religious beliefs, sexuality and countless other identifying traits that we can keep hidden or show to the world by our choice of what to wear when heading venturing out. This was absolutely true, famously so, in the Victorian Era in which men and women alike wore their status on their often lavish, embellished sleeves. In her new book, Dr. Madeleine Seyes explores Victorian culture through the lens of fashion in her new book, Double Threads: Fashion and Victorian Popular Literature, which sits at the intersection of the fields of Victorian literary studies, dress and material cultural studies, feminist literary criticism, and gender and sexuality studies.

Lady Helena Investigates

Jane Steen
Lady Helena Investigates Book PDF

Author : Jane Steen
Publisher : Aspidistra Press
Page : 364 pages
File Size : 46,5 Mb
Release : 2018-03-14
Category : Fiction
ISBN : 9780995748439

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Lady Helena Investigates by Jane Steen Pdf

A reluctant lady sleuth finds she's investigating her own family. 1881, Sussex. With a drowned husband—the second love lost—an overbearing family, no longed-for child, and the responsibility of a huge baroque mansion, it's not surprising Lady Helena Whitcombe is overwhelmed. When attractive, mysterious, French physician Armand Fortier disturbs her first weeks of mourning with his theory of murder, Helena's reluctant and ineffective attempts at investigation are hardly life-changing—until the resulting revival in her long-abandoned herbalist studies bring her into confrontation with her past and her family's. Can Lady Helena survive bereavement the second time around? Can she stand up to her six siblings' assumption of the right to control her new life as a widow? And what role will Fortier—who, as a physician, is a most unsuitable companion for an earl's daughter—play in her investigations? Every family has its secrets. The Scott-De Quincy family has more than most.

The Governess Was Wicked

Julia Kelly
The Governess Was Wicked Book PDF

Author : Julia Kelly
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 176 pages
File Size : 51,7 Mb
Release : 2016-09-12
Category : Fiction
ISBN : 9781501139338

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The Governess Was Wicked by Julia Kelly Pdf

This delightfully charming and saucy Regency era romance, is first in the Governess series in which three best friends are employed as governesses for different families, and all find themselves wanting something they can’t have. Elizabeth Porter is quite happy with her position as the governess for two sneaky-yet-sweet girls when she notices that they have a penchant for falling ill and needing the doctor. As the visits from the dashing and handsome Doctor Edward Fellows become more frequent, Elizabeth quickly sees through the lovesick girls’ ruse. Yet even Elizabeth can’t help but notice Edward’s bewitching bedside manner even as she tries to convince herself that someone of her station would not make a suitable wife for a doctor. But one little kiss won’t hurt...

This Victorian Life

Sarah A. Chrisman
This Victorian Life Book PDF

Author : Sarah A. Chrisman
Publisher : Skyhorse
Page : 440 pages
File Size : 48,6 Mb
Release : 2015-11-03
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781510700734

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This Victorian Life by Sarah A. Chrisman Pdf

Part memoir, part micro-history, this is an exploration of the present through the lens of the past. We all know that the best way to study a foreign language is to go to a country where it's spoken, but can the same immersion method be applied to history? How do interactions with antique objects influence perceptions of the modern world? From Victorian beauty regimes to nineteenth-century bicycles, custard recipes to taxidermy experiments, oil lamps to an ice box, Sarah and Gabriel Chrisman decided to explore nineteenth-century culture and technologies from the inside out. Even the deepest aspects of their lives became affected, and the more immersed they became in the late Victorian era, the more aware they grew of its legacies permeating the twenty-first century. Most of us have dreamed of time travel, but what if that dream could come true? Certain universal constants remain steady for all people regardless of time or place. No matter where, when, or who we are, humans share similar passions and fears, joys and triumphs. In her first book, Victorian Secrets, Chrisman recalled the first year she spent wearing a Victorian corset 24/7. In This Victorian Life, Chrisman picks up where Secrets left off and documents her complete shift into living as though she were in the nineteenth century.

Fashioning the Victorians

Anonim
Fashioning the Victorians Book PDF

Author : Anonim
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 326 pages
File Size : 53,9 Mb
Release : 2018-05-17
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350023383

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Fashioning the Victorians by Anonim Pdf

Offering a unique anthology of primary texts, this sourcebook opens a window on the writing that shaped and mirrored Victorian fashion, taking us from corsets to crinolines, dandies to decadent 'New Women'. A user-friendly collection that provides a solid grounding in the fashion history of the nineteenth century, it brings together for the first time sources that trace the evolution of dress and the social, cultural and political discourses that influenced it. Featuring seminal writings by authors and commentators such as Oscar Wilde, Thorstein Veblen and Sarah Stickney Ellis, plus satirical cartoons, illustrations and fashion plates from key sources such as Punch magazine, it combines primary texts and illustrations with accessible explanatory notes to offer a wide-ranging overview of the period for both students and researchers. Each section opens with an introduction that examines the major trends in Victorian clothing – and the material, economic, scientific and cultural forces driving those trends – situating the texts in the pressing social anxieties and pleasures of the time. Exploring both menswear and womenswear, and key topics such as corsetry, dress reform and mourning, Mitchell extends her analysis into interdisciplinary fields including gender studies and literature, and guides the reader with a timeline, glossary and further readings.

Clothing, Society and Culture in Nineteenth-Century England, Volume 1

Clare Rose,Vivienne Richmond
Clothing Society and Culture in Nineteenth Century England Volume 1 Book PDF

Author : Clare Rose,Vivienne Richmond
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 336 pages
File Size : 41,6 Mb
Release : 2021-12-17
Category : History
ISBN : 9781000561074

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Clothing, Society and Culture in Nineteenth-Century England, Volume 1 by Clare Rose,Vivienne Richmond Pdf

In recent times clothing has come to be seen as a topic worthy of study, yet there has been little source material available. This three-volume edition presents previously unpublished documents which illuminate key developments and issues in clothing in nineteenth-century England.

Victorian Fiction and the Cult of the Horse

Gina M. Dorré
Victorian Fiction and the Cult of the Horse Book PDF

Author : Gina M. Dorré
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 292 pages
File Size : 42,9 Mb
Release : 2016-12-05
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781351875899

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Victorian Fiction and the Cult of the Horse by Gina M. Dorré Pdf

The horse was essential to the workings of Victorian society, and its representations, which are vast, ranging, and often contradictory, comprise a vibrant cult of the horse. Examining the representational, emblematic, and rhetorical uses of horses in a diversity of nineteenth-century texts, Gina M. Dorré shows how discourses about horses reveal and negotiate anxieties related to industrialism and technology, constructions of gender and sexuality, ruptures in the social fabric caused by class conflict and mobility, and changes occasioned by national "progress" and imperial expansion. She argues that as a cultural object, the horse functions as a repository of desire and despair in a society rocked by astonishing social, economic, and technological shifts. While representations of horses abound in Victorian fiction, Gina M. Dorré's study focuses on those novels by Charles Dickens, Elizabeth Braddon, Anna Sewell, and George Moore that engage with the most impassioned controversies concerning horses and horse-care, such as the introduction of the steam engine, popular new methods of horse-taming, debates over the tight-reining of horses, and the moral furor surrounding gambling at the race track. Her book establishes the centrality of the horse as a Victorian cultural icon and explores how through it, dominant ideologies of gender and class are created, promoted, and disrupted.