Eiger Direct

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Eiger Direct

Peter Gillman,Dougal Haston
Eiger Direct Book PDF

Author : Peter Gillman,Dougal Haston
Publisher : Vertebrate Publishing
Page : 208 pages
File Size : 46,6 Mb
Release : 2020-01-23
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781912560585

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Eiger Direct by Peter Gillman,Dougal Haston Pdf

The North Face of the Eiger was long notorious as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had claimed the lives of numerous mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams – one German, the other British–American – aimed to climb it by a new direct route. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. John Harlin led the four-man British–American team and intended to make an Alpine-style dash for the summit as soon as weather conditions allowed. The Germans, with an eight-man team, planned a relentless Himalayan-style ascent, whatever the weather. The authors were key participants as the dramatic events unfolded. Award-winning writer Peter Gillman, then twenty-three, was reporting for the Telegraph, talking to the climbers by radio and watching their monumental struggles from telescopes at the Kleine Scheidegg hotel. Renowned Scottish climber Dougal Haston was a member of Harlin's team, forging the way up crucial pitches on the storm-battered mountain. Chris Bonington began as official photographer but then played a vital role in the ascent. Eiger Direct , first published in 1966, is a story of risk and resilience as the climbers face storms, frostbite and tragedy in their quest to reach the summit. This edition features a new introduction by Peter Gillman.

Extreme Eiger

Peter Gillman,Leni Gillman
Extreme Eiger Book PDF

Author : Peter Gillman,Leni Gillman
Publisher : Mountaineers Books
Page : 528 pages
File Size : 48,7 Mb
Release : 2016-02-16
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781680510515

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Extreme Eiger by Peter Gillman,Leni Gillman Pdf

•The classic story of a notorious climb, now revised, updated, and expanded by the original author with new information •Literally a race to ascend Europe’s most formidable mountain wall—Brits and Americans versus Germans The North Face of the Eiger was long renowned as the most dangerous climb in the Swiss Alps, one that had cost the lives of numerous skilled mountaineers. In February 1966, two teams—one German, the other British/American—aimed to climb it in a straight line from bottom to top. Astonishingly, the two teams knew almost nothing about each other's attempt until both arrived at the foot of the face. The race was on. The Anglo-American team of John Harlin, Layton Kor, and Dougal Haston intended to make a dash to the summit when conditions were right. The Germans, with an eight-man team and a mass of equipment, planned a slow, relentless ascent. Watching all was a young journalist, Peter Gillman. Now, fifty years later, Gillman recalls the dramatic events on the North Face, and assesses their effect on those who took part. The charismatic and controversial American climber John Harlin was killed before the summit was reached, while others were permanently injured through frostbite. For British photographer Chris Bonington, who was sucked into the action, it opened a path to a career and reputation as Britain's foremost mountaineer. “It was incredibly challenging and probably some of the hardest climbing done in the Alps to that time,” remembers Bonington. “Being involved was absolutely fantastic. There’s never been anything like it for me, before or since.” This title is part of our LEGENDS AND LORE series. Click here > to learn more.

Peering Over the Edge

Mikel Vause
Peering Over the Edge Book PDF

Author : Mikel Vause
Publisher : Mountain N' Air Books
Page : 456 pages
File Size : 41,6 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 1879415429

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Peering Over the Edge by Mikel Vause Pdf

The Philosophy of Mountaineering. This book is the result of the contributions by some of the greatest authors of moutaineering literature: Pat Ament, Phil Bartlett, Arlene Blum, Margaret Body, Sir Chris Bonington, Hamish M. Brown, Joe Brown, Greg Child, Jim Curran, Giusto Gervasutti, Andrew Greig, Terry Gifford, Heinrich Harrer, Dougal Haston, Maurice Herzog, Sir John Hunt, Jeff Long, Jeff Lowe, Hamish MacInnes, Jeffrey McCarthy, Ian Mitchell, Paul Prichard, David Roberts, Doug Robinson, Steve Roper, Galen Rowell, Woodrow Wilson Sayer, Doug Scott, Eric Shipton, G. B. Spenceley, Sir Leslie Stephen, Mikel Vause, Edward Whymper, Simon Yates, Geoffrey Winthrop Young.

Beyond the Vertical

Layton Kor
Beyond the Vertical Book PDF

Author : Layton Kor
Publisher : Rowman & Littlefield
Page : 234 pages
File Size : 45,9 Mb
Release : 2013-07-02
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781493001323

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Beyond the Vertical by Layton Kor Pdf

Layton Kor is pre-eminent in American mountaineering. He is considered the best rock climber of his generation, and his list of first ascents of technically difficult rock climbs, both free and aid, is perhaps unmatched by any American climber. In this book Kor tells the story in his own words of these groundbreaking and suspenseful climbs. Supplementing Kor's narrative are twenty-three accounts written by other leading climbers of the 1960s and 1970s, describing ascents they did with Kor: Royal Robbins, Fred Beckey, Pat Ament, Chris Bonington, Steve Roper, Huntley Ingalls, and many more share their perspectives. Kor's climbs have become some of the most famous routes in the world—the Naked Edge in Eldorado Canyon, the Diamond on Longs Peak, the Salathe Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, the North Face of the Eiger in the Alps…the list goes on. Written in a straighforward and engaging style, and accompanied by stunning, historical color photographs, Beyond the Vertical is a must-have for all rock climbers and armchair mountaineers alike.

The Next Horizon

Chris Bonington
The Next Horizon Book PDF

Author : Chris Bonington
Publisher : Vertebrate Publishing
Page : 432 pages
File Size : 50,8 Mb
Release : 2016-06-10
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781910240885

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The Next Horizon by Chris Bonington Pdf

The Next Horizon, the second volume in Chris Bonington's autobiography after I Chose to Climb , picks up his story from 1962 and relates his subsequent adventures as a mountaineer, photographer, journalist and expedition leader alongside eminent climbers including Doug Scott and Don Whillans, throughout an extraordinary decade of adversity, thrill and discovery. The book opens with a journey to Chile to climb the Central Tower of Paine. Bonington then recounts his ascents across the globe; from the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland, the Eiger in Switzerland, to Sangay in Ecuador to name but a few. He concludes in the summer of 1972 with preparations for his ambitious autumn Everest expedition. This revealing narrative of Chris Bonington's experiences provides an insight into the charismatic generation of climbing personalities with whom he travelled, as well as his development into the celebrity we know today.

Dougal Haston: The Philosophy Of Risk

Jeff Connor
Dougal Haston The Philosophy Of Risk Book PDF

Author : Jeff Connor
Publisher : Canongate Books
Page : 241 pages
File Size : 50,5 Mb
Release : 2016-09-01
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781786890269

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Dougal Haston: The Philosophy Of Risk by Jeff Connor Pdf

The untimely death of Dougal Haston in 1977 robbed climbing of one of its most charismatic, controversial and enigmatic figures. A man of extremes, who managed to combine a rock star's lifestyle with a career at the cutting edge of world mountaineering, Haston remains a cult figure whose deeds have inspired generations of climbers world-wide. Connor traces the career of a great climber from his native Scottish hills to his startling feats on Everest and the world's other great mountains.This definitive biography, which draws on never before seen diaries, explores the agonised development of Haston the man.

Ascent

Chris Bonington
Ascent Book PDF

Author : Chris Bonington
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 400 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 2017-10-19
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781471157561

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Ascent by Chris Bonington Pdf

'These well chronicled chapters of Chris’s life read like the pages of an epic saga with all the battle and victory, triumph and tragedy, love and loss one would expect of a mythical hero.' - Leo Houlding 'Bonington was a fabulous and very creative climber. He brought Britain back to being a leading nation of climbers.' - Reinhold Messner ARGUABLY ONE OF BRITAIN'S GREATEST CLIMBERS. Sir Chris Bonington memoir Ascent will chart not only his many triumphs in the climbing world - such as the Eiger, and the Himalaya - but also the struggles he has faced in his life bringing up a family, and maintaining a successful and loving marriage over the decades of travelling the world to conquer mountains. He has undertaken nineteen Himalayan expeditions, including four to Mount Everest which he climbed in 1985 at the age of fifty, and has made many first ascents in the Alps and greater ranges of the world. Along the way we will be fascinated by his many daring climbs, near-death adventures, and the many luminaries of the mountain fraternity he has climbed with, and in some cases - witness their deaths on the rock. The mercurial Dougal Haston; the legendary-tough Don Whillans, the philosopher of the rock Stephen Venables, and the enigmatic Doug Scott, plus many more – this will be an expert’s opinion on the past sixty years of British/ world mountaineering. In Ascent Chris also discusses his first wife (Wendy) who tragically passed away after a long battle with motor neuron disease - his many years of caring for her, and then in his twilight years deciding to return to an iconic climb from his past - The Old Man of Hoy - to summit at the age of 80 years of age. He has now also found love again amidst the sadness and grief. It is a truly inspirational tale. Ascent will be a memoir like no other. Not only a cerebral narrative on what it takes to conquer fear, and learn/ develop the technical skills necessary to climb the world’s greatest peaks; what it is like to survive in places no human being can ultimately reside in for longer than a few months at very high altitude, but also how one overcomes emotional obstacles, too, and rediscover what drives us on to happiness.

The Boys of Everest

Clint Willis
The Boys of Everest Book PDF

Author : Clint Willis
Publisher : Mountaineers Books
Page : 560 pages
File Size : 45,9 Mb
Release : 2017-03-15
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781680510881

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The Boys of Everest by Clint Willis Pdf

•The exploits of mountaineering’s most colorful band of adventurers The Boys of Everest by Clint Willis tells the gripping story of “Bonington’s Boys,” a band of climbers who reinvented mountaineering during the three decades after Everest’s first ascent. It is a story of tremendous courage, astonishing achievement, and heartbreaking loss. Chris Bonington’s inner circle included a dozen of mountaineering’s most legendary figures—Don Whillans, John Harlin, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott, Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker, and others—who together gave birth to a new brand of climbing. They took increasingly challenging risks on now-legendary expeditions to the world’s most fearsome peaks—and they paid an enormous price. Most of them died in the mountains, leaving behind the hardest question of all: was it worth it? “Willis's classy style turns reportage into literature . . . Bonington's Boys come across as raw, anguished souls . . . As Willis describes in his artful prose, their suffering is not just a means to an end (the summit), it is an end.” –The New York Times “A gripping adventure saga . . .”–Publishers Weekly “A death-haunted saga of the scalers of heaven . . .” –Kirkus Reviews “Mr. Willis tells a story that is gripping and poignant and even appalling . . .” –The Wall Street Journal

The Eiger Obsession

John Harlin
The Eiger Obsession Book PDF

Author : John Harlin
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 470 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 2007-03-06
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781416539315

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The Eiger Obsession by John Harlin Pdf

A historic memoir by the noted Alpine climber and journalist who undertakes an epic climb of The Eiger in Switzerland—the very same mountain that not only made his father “Eiger John” famous, but killed him in 1966. In the 1960s an American named John Harlin II changed the face of Alpine climbing. Gutsy and gorgeous—he was known as “the blond god”—Harlin successfully summitted some of the most treacherous mountains in Europe. But it was the north face of the Eiger that became Harlin’s obsession. Living with his wife and two children in Leysin, Switzerland, he spent countless hours planning to climb, waiting to climb, and attempting to climb the massive vertical face. It was the Eiger direct—the direttissima—with which John Harlin was particularly obsessed. He wanted to be the first to complete it, and everyone in the Alpine world knew it. John Harlin III was nine years old when his father made another attempt on a direct ascent of the notorious Eiger. Harlin had put together a terrific team, and, despite unending storms, he was poised for the summit dash. It was the moment he had long waited for. When Harlin’s rope broke, 2,000 feet from the summit, he plummeted 4,000 feet to his death. In the shadow of tragedy, young John Harlin III came of age possessed with the very same passion for risk that drove his father. But he had also promised his mother, a beautiful and brilliant young widow, that he would not be an Alpine climber. Harlin moved from Europe to America, and, with an insatiable sense of wanderlust, he reveled in downhill skiing and rock-climbing. For years he successfully denied the clarion call of the mountain that killed his father. But in 2005, John Harlin could resist no longer. With his nine-year-old daughter, Siena—his very age at the time of his father’s death—and with an IMAX Theatre filmmaking crew watching, Harlin set off to slay the Eiger. This is an unforgettable story about fathers and sons, climbers and mountains, and dreamers who dare to challenge the earth.

In High Places

Dougal Haston
In High Places Book PDF

Author : Dougal Haston
Publisher : Canongate Books
Page : 187 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2013-02-04
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781847677396

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In High Places by Dougal Haston Pdf

In his own words Dougal Haston covers the years from his childhood in Scotland, where his love of climbing was first sparked, through to his development into perhaps the most formidable climber of his generation; his reputation was forged by his successful ascents of familiar peaks by unfamiliar routes (of which the most famous was the Eiger Direct). Infused throughout with his passion for climbing and his great determination to succeed, In High Places is a compelling and eye-opening portrait of the climber as a young man and a must read for all those with an interest in mountaineering.

Best Climbs Denver and Boulder

Stewart M. Green
Best Climbs Denver and Boulder Book PDF

Author : Stewart M. Green
Publisher : Rowman & Littlefield
Page : 144 pages
File Size : 40,8 Mb
Release : 2011-02-01
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9780762767519

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Best Climbs Denver and Boulder by Stewart M. Green Pdf

With Best Climbs, FalconGuides introduces a new type of guidebook to some of America’s most popular climbing destinations. Written for nonlocal climbers who have only a few days to climb during each visit, these guides provides visually appealing, to-the-point information that filters out the classic routes and very best climbs. Written by an expert local climber, each guide features: - 150-200 routes of moderate difficulty, rarely rating above 5.11 - sections that each cover a different climbing area and route history - detailed color topos - stunning action photos - a contemporary, exciting design Best Climbs Denver & Boulder covers Eldorado Canyon, the Flatirons, Boulder Canyon, Golden Cliffs, Castlewood Canyon, the north section of the South Platte, and some toproping routes at Ironclads.

The Mountain Encyclopedia

Frederic Hartemann,Robert Hauptman
The Mountain Encyclopedia Book PDF

Author : Frederic Hartemann,Robert Hauptman
Publisher : Taylor Trade Publishing
Page : 328 pages
File Size : 50,5 Mb
Release : 2005-06-15
Category : Nature
ISBN : 9781461703310

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The Mountain Encyclopedia by Frederic Hartemann,Robert Hauptman Pdf

The Mountain Encyclopedia is the first A to Z compendium on all matters related to mountains including geological, geographical, and zoological terms and concepts as well as climbing and historical details. This books is both a reference and a guide for mountain and outdoor enthusiasts such as hikers, climbers, and mountaineers. It's filled with spectacular color photographs of breathtaking climbing and mountain scenes, many taken by the authors during their expeditions. Jamling Tenzing Norgay, son of the late Tenzing Norgay wrote the forward.

Fallen Giants

Maurice Isserman,Stewart Angas Weaver,Dee Molenaar
Fallen Giants Book PDF

Author : Maurice Isserman,Stewart Angas Weaver,Dee Molenaar
Publisher : Yale University Press
Page : 592 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 2010-01-01
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9780300164206

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Fallen Giants by Maurice Isserman,Stewart Angas Weaver,Dee Molenaar Pdf

In the first comprehensive history of Himalayan mountaineering in 50 years, the authors offer detailed, original accounts of the most significant climbs since the 1890s, and they compellingly evoke the social and cultural worlds that gave rise to those expeditions.

My Life

Anderl Heckmair
My Life Book PDF

Author : Anderl Heckmair
Publisher : Vertebrate Publishing
Page : 378 pages
File Size : 54,9 Mb
Release : 2015-01-12
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781910240304

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My Life by Anderl Heckmair Pdf

In 1938 Anderl Heckmair made the first ascent of the North Face of the Eiger, a monumental climb that cemented his place in history. In My Life he tells the story of how he turned from a fragile child wrapped, 'quite literally, in cotton bindings,' into one of the most important mountaineers in the world. Leaving school in 1920, Heckmair dedicated himself to climbing, becoming a full-time 'mountain vagabond'. Penniless, he lived in Alpine huts and cycled from climb to climb, even riding from Germany to the High Atlas mountains of Morocco. He rapidly developed as a mountaineer, making an ascent of the Walker Spur in awful weather, and a solo ascent of the Matterhorn in walking shoes, a feat that nobody believed. But his crowning achievement, climbed in full media glare, would always be his Eiger ascent. Events did not always run smoothly - arrested after a quarrel with a farmer, he escaped through a window ('never imprison mountain climbers in towers'). When arrested again, his ice axes mistaken for deadly weapons while he slept on a park bench, Heckmair chose to stay put, preferring the cell bunk to his bench. At times, the book ventures into darker territory. As one of the great German climbers of the 1930s, Heckmair inevitably attracted the attention of the Nazi party, he found his Eiger triumph twisted to suit their ends, and he himself seated next to Hitler at a party. But at its heart My Life is a celebration of adventure. Told in joyful, engaging and relaxed style, it is as full of life and passion for the mountains as Anderl Heckmair himself.

The Everest Years

Chris Bonington
The Everest Years Book PDF

Author : Chris Bonington
Publisher : Vertebrate Publishing
Page : 352 pages
File Size : 41,7 Mb
Release : 2017-03-28
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781911342465

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The Everest Years by Chris Bonington Pdf

Sir Chris Bonington is a household name as a result of his distinguished mountaineering career during which he has lead pioneering expeditions to the summits of some of the most stunning mountains in the world. The Everest Years shares the story of his relationship with the highest and most sought-after peak on the planet, Everest, and his ultimate fulfilment upon finally summiting in 1985 at age fifty. Bonington chronicles four expeditions to the Himalaya and Everest, including the 1975 South-West Face expedition on which he was leader and on which Doug Scott and Dougal Haston became the first Britons to summit the mountain. Bonington also recounts expeditions to K2 and The Ogre (Baintha Brakk) in the Karakoram, and Kongur, in China, describing passionately each attempt: the logistics, glory, and tragedy, seeking to explain his perpetual fascination with the highest points on earth, despite repeatedly enduring the trauma of losing friends, and often placing huge responsibility upon anxious loved ones left at home. The Everest Years reveals Bonington's love and appreciation for his ever-supportive wife Wendy, the loyal Sherpas, the companions sharing his mountain memories including Doug Scott, Dougal Haston, Peter Boardman, Joe Tasker and Mo Anthoine, and of course the glorious peaks of the Himalaya and Karakoram mountain ranges. Following I Chose to Climb and The Next Horizon , this final instalment of Bonington's autobiography will take you through a huge spectrum of brutally honest emotions and majestic landscapes.