Fashioning Masculinities

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Fashioning Masculinities

Claire Wilcox,Rosalind McKever
Fashioning Masculinities Book PDF

Author : Claire Wilcox,Rosalind McKever
Publisher : V & A Publishing
Page : 304 pages
File Size : 41,9 Mb
Release : 2022-03-03
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 1838510117

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Fashioning Masculinities by Claire Wilcox,Rosalind McKever Pdf

Unique exploration of how the cultural renaissance following independence evolved into today's dynamic African fashion revolution At a moment of unprecedented creativity in men's fashion and reflection on gender, this thought-provoking, richly illustrated book explores how designers, tailors, photographers, and artists--and their clients and sitters--have constructed and performed masculinity and unpicked it at its seams. Fashioning Masculinities first strips things back to consider the naked male body and the continued influence of the classical ideal: the Adonis--enthusiastically reconsidered by successive generations from 18th-century (Grand) tourists to Robert Mapplethorpe, Calvin Klein, and even Captain America. The book then transitions to explore the very opposite--"the peacock." For centuries men have used clothing to express status, wealth, and individuality. In this section, everything from richly embellished fabrics, shimmering textiles, voluminous cloaks, bulging codpieces, and highly polished armor to Stormzy's stab vest and Prince's boots is featured--the uniting factor being that they have all been worn with swagger and defiance. The final section surveys the suit: the three-piece tailored garment that has come to epitomize masculine attire. But for all its homogeneity, the suit has taken on myriad personas, from the historicizing cut of the Teddy Boys and the bold iconoclasm of Alexander McQueen to the creativity of Billy Porter's "Tuxedo" Oscars gown. Fashioning Masculinities challenges our preconceptions about menswear revealing the fascinating historical roots of the styles we see gracing the sidewalks, catwalks and red carpets of today.

Fashioning Masculinity

Dr Michele Cohen,Michele Cohen
Fashioning Masculinity Book PDF

Author : Dr Michele Cohen,Michele Cohen
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 192 pages
File Size : 44,5 Mb
Release : 2002-01-08
Category : History
ISBN : 9781134842216

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Fashioning Masculinity by Dr Michele Cohen,Michele Cohen Pdf

The fashioning of English gentlemen in the eighteenth century was modelled on French practices of sociability and conversation. Michele Cohen shows how at the same time, the English constructed their cultural relations with the French as relations of seduction and desire. She argues that this produced anxiety on the part of the English over the effect of French practices on English masculinity and the virtue of English women. By the end of the century, representing the French as an effeminate other was integral to the forging of English, masculine national identity. Michele Cohen examines the derogation of women and the French which accompanied the emergent 'masculine' English identity. While taciturnity became emblematic of the English gentleman's depth of mind and masculinity, sprightly conversation was seen as representing the shallow and inferior intellect of English women and the French of both sexes. Michele Cohen also demonstrates how visible evidence of girls' verbal and language learning skills served only to construe the female mind as inferior. She argues that this perception still has currency today.

Fashion and Masculinities in Popular Culture

Adam Geczy,Vicki Karaminas
Fashion and Masculinities in Popular Culture Book PDF

Author : Adam Geczy,Vicki Karaminas
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 186 pages
File Size : 43,5 Mb
Release : 2017-09-20
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781317217596

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Fashion and Masculinities in Popular Culture by Adam Geczy,Vicki Karaminas Pdf

Popular culture in the latter half of the twentieth century precipitated a decisive change in style and body image. Postwar film, television, radio shows, pulp fiction and comics placed heroic types firmly within public consciousness. This book concentrates on these heroic male types as they have evolved from the postwar era and their relationship to fashion to the present day. As well as demonstrating the role of male icons in contemporary society, this book’s originality also lies in showing the many gender slippages that these icons help to effect or expose. It is by exploring the somewhat inviolate types accorded to contemporary masculinity that we see the very fragility of a stable or rounded male identity.

Fashioning Masculinity

Dr Michele Cohen,Michele Cohen
Fashioning Masculinity Book PDF

Author : Dr Michele Cohen,Michele Cohen
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 192 pages
File Size : 43,5 Mb
Release : 2002-01-08
Category : History
ISBN : 9781134842209

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Fashioning Masculinity by Dr Michele Cohen,Michele Cohen Pdf

The fashioning of English gentlemen in the eighteenth century was modelled on French practices of sociability and conversation. Michele Cohen shows how at the same time, the English constructed their cultural relations with the French as relations of seduction and desire. She argues that this produced anxiety on the part of the English over the effect of French practices on English masculinity and the virtue of English women. By the end of the century, representing the French as an effeminate other was integral to the forging of English, masculine national identity. Michele Cohen examines the derogation of women and the French which accompanied the emergent 'masculine' English identity. While taciturnity became emblematic of the English gentleman's depth of mind and masculinity, sprightly conversation was seen as representing the shallow and inferior intellect of English women and the French of both sexes. Michele Cohen also demonstrates how visible evidence of girls' verbal and language learning skills served only to construe the female mind as inferior. She argues that this perception still has currency today.

Fashionable Masculinities

Vicki Karaminas,Adam Geczy,Pamela Church Gibson
Fashionable Masculinities Book PDF

Author : Vicki Karaminas,Adam Geczy,Pamela Church Gibson
Publisher : Rutgers University Press
Page : 275 pages
File Size : 45,9 Mb
Release : 2022-07-15
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781978823297

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Fashionable Masculinities by Vicki Karaminas,Adam Geczy,Pamela Church Gibson Pdf

Fashionable Masculinities explores the expression of masculinities through constructions of fashion, identity, style and appearance. Essays include musical pop sensation Harry Styles, rapper and producer "Puff Daddy" Sean Combs, lumbersexuals, spornosexuals, sexy daddies, and aging cool black daddies. This book interrogates and challenges the meaning of masculinities and the ways that they are experienced and lived.

Fashioning the Self: Identity and Style in British Culture

Emily Priscott
Fashioning the Self Identity and Style in British Culture Book PDF

Author : Emily Priscott
Publisher : Vernon Press
Page : 191 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 2023-06-06
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781648897078

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Fashioning the Self: Identity and Style in British Culture by Emily Priscott Pdf

'Fashioning the Self: Identity and Style in British Culture' offers an eclectic approach to contemporary fashion studies. Taking a broad definition of British culture, this collection of essays explores the significance of style to issues such as colonialism, race, gender and class, embracing topics as diverse as eighteenth-century portraiture, literary dress culture and Edwardian working-class glamour. Examining the emblematic power of garments themselves and the context in which they are styled, this work interrogates the ways that personal style can itself decontextualize garments to radically reframe their meanings. Using an intentionally eclectic range of subjects from an interdisciplinary perspective, this collection builds on the work of theorists such as Aileen Ribeiro, Vika Martina Plock, Cheryl Buckley and Hilary Fawcett, to examine the social significance of personal style, while also highlighting the diversity of British culture itself.

English Masculinities, 1660-1800

Tim Hitchcock,Michelle Cohen
English Masculinities 1660 1800 Book PDF

Author : Tim Hitchcock,Michelle Cohen
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 278 pages
File Size : 52,9 Mb
Release : 2014-07-30
Category : History
ISBN : 9781317882503

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English Masculinities, 1660-1800 by Tim Hitchcock,Michelle Cohen Pdf

This collection of specially commissioned essays provides the first social history of masculinity in the ‘long eighteenth century’. Drawing on diaries, court records and prescriptive literature, it explores the different identities of late Stuart and Georgian men. The heterosexual fop, the homosexual, the polite gentleman, the blackguard, the man of religion, the reader of erotica and the violent aggressor are each examined here, and in the process a new and increasingly important field of historical enquiry is opened up to the non-specialist reader. The book opens with a substantial introduction by the Editors. This provides readers with a detailed context for the chapters which follow. The core of the book is divided into four main parts looking at sociability, virtue and friendship, violence, and sexuality. Within this framework each chapter forms a self-contained unit, with its own methodology, sources and argument. The chapters address issues such as the correlations between masculinity and Protestantism; masculinity, Englishness and taciturnity; and the impact of changing representations of homosexual desire on the social organisation of heterosexuality. Misogyny, James Boswell's self-presentation, the literary and metaphorical representation of the body, the roles of gossip and violence in men's lives, are each addressed in individual chapters. The volume is concluded by a wide-ranging synoptic essay by John Tosh, which sets a new agenda for the history of masculinity. An extensive guide to further reading is also provided. Designed for students, academics and the general reader alike, this collection of essays provides a wide-ranging and accessible framework within which to understand eighteenth-century men. Because of the variety of approaches and conclusions it contains, and because this is the first attempt to bring together a comprehensive set of writings on the social history of eighteenth-century masculinity, this volume does something quite new. It de-centres and problematises the male ‘standard’ and explores the complex and disparate masculinites enacted by the men of this period. This will be essential reading for anyone interested in eighteenth-century British social history.

Fashion Studies

Heike Jenss
Fashion Studies Book PDF

Author : Heike Jenss
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 55,8 Mb
Release : 2016-01-28
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781472583192

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Fashion Studies by Heike Jenss Pdf

The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry, with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts. With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion. Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and matching of methodological approaches – including object and image based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related fields.

Fashion In Focus

Tim Edwards
Fashion In Focus Book PDF

Author : Tim Edwards
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 189 pages
File Size : 42,8 Mb
Release : 2010-11-18
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781136866616

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Fashion In Focus by Tim Edwards Pdf

The study of fashion has exploded in recent decades, yet what this all means or quite where it might take us is not clear. This new book helps to bring fashion into focus, with a comprehensive guide to the key theories, perspectives and developments in the field. Tim Edwards includes coverage of all the major theories of fashion, including recent scholarship, alongside subcultural analysis and an in-depth look at production. Individual topics include: men’s fashion, masculinity and the suit women’s fashion and the role of sexuality children, the body and fashion the role of celebrity and designer label culture globalisation and the production of fashion. Fashion in Focus is the ideal companion for students in the arts and social sciences, especially those studying issues such as fashion, gender, sexuality and consumer culture.

Fashion and Cultural Studies

Susan B. Kaiser,Denise N. Green
Fashion and Cultural Studies Book PDF

Author : Susan B. Kaiser,Denise N. Green
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 317 pages
File Size : 55,9 Mb
Release : 2021-11-04
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350104693

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Fashion and Cultural Studies by Susan B. Kaiser,Denise N. Green Pdf

Bridging theory and practice, this accessible text considers fashion from both cultural studies and fashion studies perspectives, and addresses the growing interaction between the two fields. Kaiser and Green use a wide range of cross-cultural case studies to explore how race, ethnicity, class, gender and other identities intersect and are produced through embodied fashion. Drawing on intersectionality in feminist theory and cultural studies, Fashion and Cultural Studies is essential reading for students and scholars. This revised edition includes updated case studies and two new chapters. The first new chapter explores religion, spirituality, and faith in relation to style, fashion, and dress. The second offers a critique of “beauty” and considers dressed embodiment inclusive of diverse sizes, shapes and dis/abilities. Throughout the text, Kaiser and Green use a range of examples to interrogate the complex entanglements of production, regulation, distribution, consumption, and subject formation within and through fashion.

Doing Research in Fashion and Dress

Yuniya Kawamura
Doing Research in Fashion and Dress Book PDF

Author : Yuniya Kawamura
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 176 pages
File Size : 55,9 Mb
Release : 2020-01-09
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350089792

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Doing Research in Fashion and Dress by Yuniya Kawamura Pdf

Whether you're investigating fashion as a material object, an abstract idea, a social phenomenon, or a commercial system, qualitative techniques can further your understanding of almost any research topic. Doing Research in Fashion and Dress begins by guiding you through a brief history of fashion studies, and the debates surrounding it, before introducing key qualitative methodological approaches, including ethnography, semiology, and object-based research. Detailed case studies demonstrate how each methodology is used in practice. These case studies include Japanese subcultures, fashion photography blogs and semiotic studies of fashion magazine shoots and advertisements. This second edition also features a new chapter on internet sources and online ethnography, reflecting the adoption of social media tools not only by industry practitioners but also by academics. By contextualizing history, theory and practice Doing Research in Fashion and Dress offers: -A systematic examination of qualitative research methods in fashion studies in social sciences. -A practical guide for anyone wishing to conduct fashion research in academia or in the business world. -An accessible grounding in contemporary fashion studies literature.

Fashion Writing

Claudia B. Manley,Abi Slone
Fashion Writing Book PDF

Author : Claudia B. Manley,Abi Slone
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
Page : 218 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2022-11-30
Category : Language Arts & Disciplines
ISBN : 9781000785616

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Fashion Writing by Claudia B. Manley,Abi Slone Pdf

Acting as a comprehensive primer for the field of fashion writing, this book provides an accessible entry point for readers from diverse backgrounds, giving them a clear understanding of the intricacies of fashion writing, the outlets in which it appears, and the possibilities beyond the page. Fashion Writing: A Primer lays out a framework for various types of fashion writing (runway and trend reports, service pieces, features, and more), while offering students a solid foundation of fashion history, cultural touchstones, common fashion terminology, and contemporary issues affecting the fashion industry today. Featuring interviews with current fashion journalists, such as Robin Givhan, Sarah Mower, Charlie Porter, and Amanda Winnie Kabuiku, as well as annotated bibliographies centred on the themes of each chapter, this book delivers fashion writing essentials for anyone interested in the field. Readers will come away aware of the many influences on the fashion world, helping them establish credibility as a fashion writer. Covering both print and online outlets, this is a valuable text for students with an interest in fashion communication, journalism, and fashion media, as well as early career fashion professionals looking for a complete guide to the industry.

A Genealogy of the Gentleman

Mary Beth Harris
A Genealogy of the Gentleman Book PDF

Author : Mary Beth Harris
Publisher : Rutgers University Press
Page : 158 pages
File Size : 43,5 Mb
Release : 2024-03-15
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781644533307

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A Genealogy of the Gentleman by Mary Beth Harris Pdf

A Genealogy of the Gentleman argues that eighteenth-century women writers made key interventions in modern ideals of masculinity and authorship through their narrative constructions of the gentleman. It challenges two latent critical assumptions: first, that the gentleman’s masculinity is normative, private, and therefore oppositional to concepts of performance; and second, that women writers, from their disadvantaged position within a patriarchal society, had no real means of influencing dominant structures of masculinity. By placing writers such as Mary Davys, Eliza Haywood, Charlotte Lennox, Elizabeth Inchbald, and Mary Robinson in dialogue with canonical representatives of the gentleman author—Joseph Addison and Richard Steele, David Hume, Samuel Johnson, and Samuel Richardson—Mary Beth Harris shows how these women carved out a space for their literary authority not by overtly opposing their male critics and society’s patriarchal structure, but by rewriting the persona of the gentleman as a figure whose very desirability and appeal were dependent on women’s influence. Ultimately, this project considers the import of these women writers’ legacy, both progressive and conservative, on hegemonic standards of masculinity that persist to this day.

Menswear Revolution

Jay McCauley Bowstead
Menswear Revolution Book PDF

Author : Jay McCauley Bowstead
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 224 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 2018-05-17
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474288996

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Menswear Revolution by Jay McCauley Bowstead Pdf

In recent years, menswear has moved decisively center stage. Menswear Revolution investigates the transformation of men's fashion through the lens of shifting masculinities, examining how its increasing diversity has created new ways for men to explore and express their identities. Harnessing sustained market growth and creative dynamism on the runway, ground-breaking designers from Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane to Craig Green have revolutionized the discipline with their bold re-imaginings of the male wardrobe. Analysing the role of the media in shaping attitudes to men's fashion, Menswear Revolution studies how competing narratives of masculinity are reflected in popular discourse. Taking us from the mod and peacock revolutions of the 1960s to the new wave aesthetics of the 1980s, the book explores historical precedents for today's menswear scene – and looks at the evolution of the 'ideal' male body, from the muscular to the lean and boyish. Combining interviews with fashion professionals with close analyses of garments and advertising, Menswear Revolution provides an authoritative account of menswear design today. Highlighting its relationship to changing concepts of gender, the book provides a much-needed update to scholarship on masculinity, fashion and the body.

Fluid

Harris Reed
Fluid Book PDF

Author : Harris Reed
Publisher : Abrams
Page : 273 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2024-01-16
Category : Design
ISBN : 9798887070025

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Fluid by Harris Reed Pdf

Influential designer Harris Reed explores the world of gender-defying fashion in this richly illustrated monograph. In Fluid, revolutionary fashion designer Harris Reed introduces the world to a new era in fluid fashion. At the center of Reed’s sartorial journey has always been his desire to change the way people express their identities through clothing. Fluidity’s essence is adaptable, evolutionary, and dynamic, and Reed’s work constantly disrupts the divide between men’s and women’s clothing. Reed’s pieces have been worn by Harry Styles, Adele, Sam Smith, Iman, and Beyoncé, and with each piece, he has generated an instantly iconic cultural moment, pushing conversations about gender expression into the mainstream. Fluid examines historical antecedents of fluidity, questions old power structures, and urges people to find their authentic selves in this new avenue of fashion. With stunning color photography, resplendent fashion, and illustrations of Harris’s design process, Fluid takes readers beyond the idea of clothes as mere garments, positing that clothes are a nexus of art, philosophy, and history that can be used to help shape our culture and challenge understandings of gender. With this book, Reed affirms that fluid is the future of fashion.