Sartorial Practices And Social Order In Eighteenth Century Sweden

Author : Mikael Alm
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 250 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 2021-07-26
Category : History
ISBN : 9781000415506

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Sartorial Practices and Social Order in Eighteenth-Century Sweden by Mikael Alm Pdf

The interplay between clothes and social order in early modern societies is well known. Differences in dress and hierarchies of appearances coincided with and structured social hierarchies and notions of difference. However, clothes did not merely reproduce set social patterns. They were agents of change, actively used by individuals and groups to make claims and transgress formal boundaries. This was not least the case for the revolutionary decades of the late eighteenth century, the period in focus of this book. Unlike previous studies on sumptuary laws and other legal actions taken by governments and formal power holders, this book offers a broader and more everyday perspective on late eighteenth-century sartorial discourse. In 1773, there was a publicly announced prize competition on the advantages and disadvantages of a national dress in Sweden. Departing from the submitted replies, the study opens a window onto the sartorial world. Several fields of cultural history are brought together: social culture in terms of order, hierarchies, and notions of difference; sartorial culture with contemporary views on dress and moral aspects of sartorial practices; and visual culture in terms of sartorial means of making a difference and the emphasis on the necessity of a legible social order.

Author : Jon Stobart
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 281 pages
File Size : 55,8 Mb
Release : 2021-09-21
Category : History
ISBN : 9781000438741

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Comfort in the Eighteenth-Century Country House by Jon Stobart Pdf

Country houses were grand statements of power and status, but they were also places where people lived. This book traces the changes in layout, the new technologies, and the innovations in furniture that made them more convenient and comfortable. It argues that these material changes were just one aspect of comfort in the country house: feeling comfortable was just as important as being comfortable. Achieving this involved the comfort and solace to be found in daily routines, religious faith and, above all, relationships with family and friends. Such emotional comforts, and the attachment to things and places that embodied and memorialized them, made country houses into homes.

Author : Gudrun Andersson,Jon Stobart
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 236 pages
File Size : 41,6 Mb
Release : 2021-08-12
Category : History
ISBN : 9781000425727

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Daily Lives and Daily Routines in the Long Eighteenth Century by Gudrun Andersson,Jon Stobart Pdf

This book explores the ways in which the lives and routines of a wide range of people across different parts of Europe and the wider world were structured and played out through everyday practices. It focuses on the detail of individual lives and how these were shaped by spaces and places, by movement and material culture – both the buildings they occupied and the objects they used in their everyday lives. Drawing on original research by a range of established and emerging scholars, each chapter peers into the lives of people from various social groups as they went about their daily lives, from citizens on the streets to aristocrats at home in their country houses, and from the urban elite at leisure to seamen on board ships bound for the East Indies. For all these people, daily routines were important in structuring their lives, giving them a rhythm that was knowable and meaningful in its temporal regularity, be that daily, weekly, or seasonal. So too were their everyday encounters and relationships with other people, within and beyond the home; these shaped their practices, movements, and identities and thus served to mould society in a broader sense.

Author : Anna Knutsson
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
Page : 339 pages
File Size : 48,8 Mb
Release : 2022-12-30
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781000821833

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Shadow Economies in the Globalising World by Anna Knutsson Pdf

From West Indian sugar and bottles of Southeast Asian arrack to French red wines, English felt cloth, and Mediterranean lemons, many global wares ended up in the Scandinavian borderlands during the late eighteenth century. This book explores how and why these goods came to be there and analyses what smuggling can reveal about the emergence of global trade, the formation of the nation state, and the development of consumer society in Europe’s northernmost outskirts. This book shows that the global underground was ubiquitous in the Nordic countries and fundamentally altered them, politically, economically, socially, and culturally. Through re-evaluating the role of smuggling the book complements and challenges established historical accounts about state building, market dynamics, consumer culture, and ideas and identity. It also offers a roadmap for how to think about illegal global trade and how to approach this notoriously difficult research field. By integrating illegality, the book aims to show how an illicit web entangled often overlooked ‘peripheral’ territories with traditional ‘portals of globalisation’ and proposes a novel take on early modern globalisation and the paths to modernity in the European hinterlands. To achieve this a wide variety of sources are used including court records, administrative sources, diaries, ambassadorial correspondence, and maps in various languages including Swedish, Finnish, Norwegian, English, and French. This book makes a significant contribution to the literature on economic history, the first wave of globalisation, the study of shadow economies, and Scandinavian history more broadly.

Author : Deborah Simonton
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 496 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2017-02-03
Category : History
ISBN : 9781351995740

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The Routledge History Handbook of Gender and the Urban Experience by Deborah Simonton Pdf

Challenging current perspectives of urbanisation, The Routledge History Handbook of Gender and the Urban Experience explores how our towns and cities have shaped and been shaped by cultural, spatial and gendered influences. This volume discusses gender in an urban context in European, North American and colonial towns from the fourteenth to the twentieth century, casting new light on the development of medieval and modern settlements across the globe. Organised into six thematic parts covering economy, space, civic identity, material culture, emotions and the colonial world, this book comprises 36 chapters by key scholars in the field. It covers a wide range of topics, from women and citizenship in medieval York to gender and tradition in nineteenth- and twentieth-century South African cities, reframing our understanding of the role of gender in constructing the spaces and places that form our urban environment. Interdisciplinary and transnational in scope, this volume analyses the individual dynamics of each case study while also examining the complex relationships and exchanges between urban cultures. It is a valuable resource for all researchers and students interested in gender, urban history and their intersection and interaction throughout the past five centuries.

Author : Anna Kalinowska,Jonathan Spangler
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 288 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 2021-09-09
Category : History
ISBN : 9781350152199

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Power and Ceremony in European History by Anna Kalinowska,Jonathan Spangler Pdf

From oaths and hand-kissing to coronations and baptisms, Power and Ceremony in European History considers the governing practices, courtly rituals, and expressions of power prevalent in Europe and the Ottoman Empire from the medieval age to the modern era. Bringing together political and art historical approaches to the study of power, this book reveals how ceremonies and rituals - far from simply being ostentatious displays of wealth - served as a primary means of communication between different participants in political and courtly life. It explores how ceremonial culture changed over time and in different regions to provide readers with a nuanced comparative understanding of rituals and ceremonies since the middle ages, showing how such performances were integral to the evolution of the state in Europe. This collection of essays is of immense value to both historians and art historians interested in representations of power and the political culture of Europe from 1450 onwards.

Author : Johanna Ilmakunnas,Jon Stobart
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 336 pages
File Size : 44,8 Mb
Release : 2017-06-29
Category : History
ISBN : 9781474258258

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A Taste for Luxury in Early Modern Europe by Johanna Ilmakunnas,Jon Stobart Pdf

Jon Stobart and Johanna Ilmakunnas bring together a range of scholars from across mainland Europe and the UK to examine luxury and taste in early modern Europe. In the 18th century, debates raged about the economic, social and moral impacts of luxury, whilst taste was viewed as a refining influence and a marker of rank and status. This book takes a fresh, comparative approach to these ideas, drawing together new scholarship to examine three related areas in a wide variety of European contexts. Firstly, the deployment of luxury goods in displays of status and how these practices varied across space and time. Secondly, the processes of communicating and acquiring taste and luxury: how did people obtain tasteful and luxurious goods, and how did they recognise them as such? Thirdly, the ways in which ideas of taste and luxury crossed national, political and economic boundaries: what happened to established ideas of luxury and taste as goods moved from one country to another, and during times of political transformation? Through the analysis of case studies looking at consumption practices, material culture, political economy and retail marketing, A Taste for Luxury in Early Modern Europe challenges established readings of luxury and taste. This is a crucial volume for any historian seeking a more nuanced understanding of material culture, consumption and luxury in early modern Europe.

Author : Klas Nyberg,Håkan Jakobsson
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 230 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2020-11-29
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781000282023

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Luxury, Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit by Klas Nyberg,Håkan Jakobsson Pdf

Luxury, Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit addresses how social and cultural ideas about credit and trust, in the context of fashion and trade, were affected by the growth and development of the bankruptcy institution. Luxury, fashion and social standing are intimately connected to consumption on credit. Drawing on data from the fashion trade, this fascinating edited volume shows how the concepts of credit, trust and bankruptcy changed towards the end of the early modern period (1500−1800) and in the beginning of the modern period. Focusing on Sweden, with comparative material from France and other European countries, this volume draws together emerging and established scholars from across the fields of economic history and fashion. This book is an essential read for scholars in economic history, financial history, social history and European history.

Author : Göran Rydén
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 386 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 2016-03-09
Category : History
ISBN : 9781317047414

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Sweden in the Eighteenth-Century World by Göran Rydén Pdf

Eighteenth-century Sweden was deeply involved in the process of globalisation: ships leaving Sweden’s central ports exported bar iron that would drive the Industrial Revolution, whilst arriving ships would bring not only exotic goods and commodities to Swedish consumers, but also new ideas and cultural practices with them. At the same time, Sweden was an agricultural country to a large extent governed by self-subsistence, and - for most - wealth was created within this structure. This volume brings together a group of scholars from a range of disciplinary backgrounds who seek to present a more nuanced and elaborated picture of the Swedish cosmopolitan eighteenth century. Together they paint a picture of Sweden that is more like the one eighteenth-century intellectuals imagined, and help to situate Sweden in histories of cosmopolitanism of the wider world.

Author : Anonim
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 40,7 Mb
Release : 2020
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 9151309424

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Dress Matters by Anonim Pdf

Author : Serena Dyer
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 42,5 Mb
Release : 2020
Category : Material culture
ISBN : 1350127027

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Material Lives by Serena Dyer Pdf

"Conventional histories of the 18th century - and the industrial revolution and the birth of the consumer society - have distorted our understanding of the complex dynamics of material production and consumption and the ways in which these were experienced by both men and women. With its illuminating stories of women's experiences, and their material literacy and agency as producers, Material Lives offers a new way of looking at this period, challenging previously held views and assumptions. Using deep archival research to tell these stories, Material Lives shifts the conceptual framework by which women are perceived as passive consumers - those who bought things - to active producers - those who made things. Dyer focusses on genteel women, whose engagement with production has traditionally been characterised as decorative, trivial and superficial, and reveals the strategies used by women to negotiate and record their interactions with the increasingly sophisticated world of goods. Exploring the material archives of four women of the period - fabric samples, 'dress of the year' watercolours, doll-sized versions of women's garments and adorned prints - as forms of lifewriting, or material biographies, the book reveals how women used the material culture of making to record and navigate their lives. In so doing, Material Lives challenges our previously held understanding of 18th-century society and the history of gender, making and consumption, placing women centrally as 'makers' in this new consumer society. For researchers and students of material culture, dress history, consumption, gender and women's history, it offers a rich resource of stories to illuminate the past"--

Author : Anonim
Publisher : Univ of North Carolina Press
Page : 306 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2011
Category : History
ISBN : 9780807834879

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Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America by Anonim Pdf

The Politics of Fashion in Eighteenth-Century America

Author : Aileen Ribeiro
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 318 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2002
Category : Design
ISBN : 0300091516

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Dress in Eighteenth-century Europe, 1715-1789 by Aileen Ribeiro Pdf

In this beautiful book, Aileen Ribeiro surveys the clothing worn by the middle and upper classes throughout Europe in the eighteenth century and discusses what this meant in terms of social definition and identity. Ribeiro, one of the world's premier historians of dress, also looks at such subjects as developments in retailing and distribution, etiquette, the rise of the dress designer and couturier, the evolution of ready-made clothes, fancy dress and the masquerade. This new edition updates the text and bibliographical material in the previous highly acclaimed volume and adds many new, full-colour illustrations. Book jacket.

Author : Maria Ågren
Publisher : Oxford University Press
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 49,6 Mb
Release : 2016-11-01
Category : History
ISBN : 9780190240646

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Making a Living, Making a Difference by Maria Ågren Pdf

What do people do all day? What did women and men do to make a living in early modern Europe, and what did their work mean? As this book shows, the meanings depended both on the worker and on the context. With an innovative analytic method that is yoked to a specially-built database of source materials, this book revises many received opinions about the history of gender and work in Europe. The applied verb-oriented method finds the 'work verbs' that appear incidentally in a wide variety of early modern sources and then analyzes the context in which they appear. By tying information technologies and computer-assisted analysis to the analytic powers--both quantitative and qualitative--of professional historians, the method gets much closer to a participatory observation of the micro-patterns of early modern life than was once believed possible. This book directly addresses a number of broad problems often debated by historians of gender and early modern Europe. First, it discusses the problem of assessing more accurately the incidence, character and division of work. Second, it analyzes the configurations of work and human difference. Third, it deals with the extent to which work practices created notions of difference--gender difference but also other forms of difference--and, conversely, to what extent work practices contributed to notions of sameness and gender convergence. Finally, it studies the impact of processes of change. Drawing on sources from Sweden, the authors show the importance of multiple employment, the openness of early modern households, the significance of marriage and marital status, the gendered nature of specific tasks, and the ways in which state formation and commercialization were entangled in people's everyday lives.

Author : Carrie Hertz
Publisher : Indiana University Press
Page : 259 pages
File Size : 42,5 Mb
Release : 2021-12-21
Category : Art
ISBN : 9780253058584

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Dressing with Purpose by Carrie Hertz Pdf

Dress helps us fashion identity, history, community, and place. Dress has been harnessed as a metaphor for both progress and stability, the exotic and the utopian, oppression and freedom, belonging and resistance. Dressing with Purpose examines three Scandinavian dress traditions—Swedish folkdräkt, Norwegian bunad, and Sámi gákti—and traces their development during two centuries of social and political change across northern Europe. By the 20th century, many in Sweden worried about the ravages of industrialization, urbanization, and emigration on traditional ways of life. Norway was gripped in a struggle for national independence. Indigenous Sámi communities—artificially divided by national borders and long resisting colonial control—rose up in protests that demanded political recognition and sparked cultural renewal. Within this context of European nation-building, colonial expansion, and Indigenous activism, traditional dress took on special meaning as folk, national, or ethnic minority costumes—complex categories that deserve reexamination today. Through lavishly illustrated and richly detailed case studies, Dressing with Purpose introduces readers to individuals who adapt and revitalize dress traditions to articulate who they are, proclaim personal values and group allegiances, strive for sartorial excellence, reflect critically on the past, and ultimately, reshape the societies they live in.