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Author : Sam Bleakley
Publisher : Alison Hodge Publishers
Page : 196 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2010
Category : Surfers
ISBN : 090672080X
Professional longboarder Sam Bleakley details a decade of extreme global surf travel.
Author : Sam Bleakley,J. S. Callahan
Publisher : Alison Hodge Publishers
Page : 250 pages
File Size : 43,5 Mb
Release : 2012
Category : Surfers
ISBN : 0906720850
Sam Bleakley and the surf EXPLORE team take us on a roller coaster ride through Gabon, India, Vietnam, Algeria, China and Haiti, drumming up a tropical beat. Combining 'Deep Travel', John Callahan's incredible photography and Sam's performance writing, they capture the spirit of these turbulent coast scapes, blood racing, running on salt water fuel. The wide belt around the Equator - the tropics - has become an alluring path for travel, but a region often steeped in war and environmental disasters. Sam and surf EXPLORE go off the regular route, carving a niche, collaborating with locals, documenting the occasion poetically and with precision. Where 'waves transform from green glass to white foam, the surfboard is the frozen double of that transition - a rainbow bridge that allows you to step in the blink of an eye from inertia to adrenaline-fuelled ecstasy to the fear of the water-wrestling hold-down.' The paradoxical red hot and cool blue of surfing, and the often icy logic of preparation for challenging travel, form a matrix from which springs a distinctive kind of writing as performance. By turns, surf EXPLORE gather their wits at the cross roads where 'lovers part and souls get taken by the lost high way, lured down the wrong route.'
Author : Sam Bleakley
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 51,5 Mb
Release : 2019-12-31
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 1782407596
Author : Sam Bleakley
Publisher : Leaping Hare Press
Page : 163 pages
File Size : 42,5 Mb
Release : 2020-03-10
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781782408963
Mindful Thoughts for Surfers explores how meditative a life on the surfboard can be. These 25 insightful musings will inspire beginners and experts alike. The heightened attention in surfing and the meditative nature of water facilitate the perfect opportunity to practise mindfulness. Sam Bleakley is an international longboard champion and advocate for all forms of waveriding. With an interest in Buddhism and Taoism, he discusses: Blue mindfulness - identifying with the ocean The connection to nature Dropping the ego Embracing imperfection Responsibility and diversity The opportunity for play, beauty, and music Through these reflections, Sam explores how riding the waves is the ultimate meditation and offers an astute awareness of what the oceans tell us about our place in the natural world—if we would just listen. His illuminating meditations, each beautifully illustrated, make this book perfect for dipping into and offer a gentle gateway into life-affirmingawareness for everyone. If you like this you might also be interested in Mindful Thoughts for Runners . . .
Author : Chris Power
Publisher : Orca Publications
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 42,7 Mb
Release : 2010-12-15
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0952364689
Surf photographers are the unsung heroes of surfing. They do crazy things to get the shots that fill the pages of the world's top surfing magazines. Some risk life and limb shooting the action at deadly reefs like Teahupoo and Pipeline. Some lose themselves in the Arctic, braving sub-zero temperatures for the chance to score a perfect day at a remote pointbreak. Shooting the Curl showcases the work of 15 top surf photographers and gets the inside story on the surfers and waves that inspire them.
Author : Alphonso Lingis
Publisher : University of Chicago Press
Page : 239 pages
File Size : 42,5 Mb
Release : 2018-11-13
Category : Philosophy
ISBN : 9780226556932
In his latest book, the prolific writer and thinker Alphonso Lingis brings interdisciplinarity and lyrical philosophizing to the weight of reality, the weight of things, and the weight of life itself. Drawing from philosophy, anthropology, psychology, religion, and science, Lingis seeks to uncover what in our reality escapes our attempts at measuring and categorizing. Writing as much from his own experiences and those of others as from his longstanding engagement with phenomenology and existentialism, Irrevocable studies the world in which shadows, reflections, halos, and reverberations count as much as the carpentry of things. Whether describing religious art and ritual, suffering, war and disease, the pleasures of love, the wonders of nature, archaeological findings, surfing, volcanoes, or jellyfish, Lingis writes with equal measures of rigor and abandon about the vicissitudes of our practices and beliefs. Knowing that birth, the essential encounters in our lives, crippling diseases and accidents, and even death are all determined by chance, how do we recognize and understand such chance? After facing tragedies, what makes it possible to live on while recognizing our irrevocable losses? Lingis’s investigations are accompanied by his own vivid photographs from around the world. Balancing the local and the global, and ranging across vast expanses of culture and time, Irrevocable sounds the depths of both our passions and our impassioned bodies and minds.
Author : Sam Bleakley
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 44,8 Mb
Release : 2016
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 1782404112
Author : Alphonso Lingis
Publisher : U of Minnesota Press
Page : 739 pages
File Size : 41,6 Mb
Release : 2018-10-30
Category : Philosophy
ISBN : 9781452958231
A selection of the writings of Alphonso Lingis, showcasing a unique blend of travelogue, cultural anthropology, and philosophy Alphonso Lingis is arguably the most intriguing American philosopher of the past fifty years—a scholar of transience, someone who has visited and revisited more than one hundred countries and has woven this itinerary into his writing and allowed it to give form to his thinking. This book assembles a representative selection of Lingis’s work to give readers a thorough sense of his methodology and vision, the diversity of his subject matter, and the unity of his thought. Lingis’s writing evinces the many kinds of knowledge and subtle forces circulating through human communities and their environments. His unique style blends travel writing, cultural anthropology, and personal accounts of his innumerable experiences as an active participant in the adventures and relationships that fill his life. Drawing from countless articles, essays, and interviews published over fifty years, editor Tom Sparrow chose works that follow Lingis’s engaging, often intimate reflections on the body in motion and the myriad influences—social, cultural, aesthetic, libidinal, physical, mythological—that shape and animate it as it moves through the world, among people and places both foreign and domestic, familiar and unknown. In a substantial Introduction, Sparrow provides a biographical, critical, intellectual, and cultural context for reading and appreciating Alphonso Lingis’s work. An extended encounter with the singular philosopher, The Alphonso Lingis Reader conducts us through Lingis’s early writing on phenomenology to his hybrid studies fusing philosophy, psychoanalysis, anthropology, communication theory, aesthetics, and other disciplines, to his original, inspired arguments about everything from knowledge to laughter to death.
Author : Chris Power
Publisher : Orca Publications
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 55,5 Mb
Release : 2013-12-10
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0956789331
Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws – waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.
Author : Chris Power
Publisher : Orca Publications
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 46,5 Mb
Release : 2012-11-01
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0952364697
Surfers live to travel. The quest to find perfect waves is something that grips surfers of all abilities, from novice to expert. Now, from the publishers of leading British surfing magazines Carve and SurfGirl, comes a new book covering every aspect of travel and exploration: where to go, where to stay, what equipment to take, how to get in shape for your trip, how to stay healthy abroad, and how to make the most of your time away. Packed with information and useful tips, as well as awesome photos, Surf Travel will inspire surfers of all levels to load up their boardbags and head off to find the waves of their dreams. The main section of the book focusses on the classic surfing destinations such as Queensland’s Gold Coast, Hawaii’s North Shore, the Maldives, the Mentawai Islands, Bali, the Canary Islands, Costa Rica, Barbados, Puerto Rico, Sri Lanka, Fiji, Tahiti, Southwest France and Southern California. Each location is described and dissected, with insider tips about how to score the best conditions. Several less-well known areas are also included for experienced surfers who thirst for pristine, uncrowded waves. Surfers of all levels will benefit from the range of useful tips on offer, whether they’re going on a road trip to California, a camping trip to France, or a boat trip to Indonesia. All kinds of priceless advice is offered by a writing team of experienced travellers who’ve visited scores of countries and put in the hard yards. Surf Travel features more than 250 colour photos by some of the world’s top surf photographers including Andrew Shield, Alan van Gysen, Pete Frieden, Mickey Smith, Roger Sharp, Will Bailey, DJ Struntz, Simon Williams and Tim McKenna. The book also includes a comprehensive directory of travel resources where surfers can find information about the best surf camps, travel companies, and operators around the world.
Author : Bleakley Alan
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 444 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2019-07-31
Category : Medical
ISBN : 9781351241755
This authoritative new handbook offers a comprehensive and cutting-edge overview of the state of the medical humanities globally, showing how clinically oriented medical humanities, the critical study of medicine as a global historical and cultural phenomenon, and medicine as a force for cultural change can inform each other. Composed of eight parts, the Routledge Handbook of the Medical Humanities looks at the medical humanities as: a network and system therapeutic provocation forms of resistance a way of reconceptualising the medical curriculum concerned with performance and narrative mediated by artists as diagnosticians of culture through public engagement. This book describes how the medical humanities can be used in and out of clinical settings, acting as a point of resistance, redistributing medicine’s capital amongst its stakeholders, embracing the complexity of medical instances, shaping medical education, promoting interdisciplinary understandings and recognising an identity for the medical humanities as a network effect. This book is an essential read for all students, scholars and practitioners with an interest in the medical humanities.
Author : Chas Smith
Publisher : Rare Bird Books
Page : 188 pages
File Size : 55,9 Mb
Release : 2019-12-11
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 1644280337
From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.
Author : Andy Clark
Publisher : Oxford University Press, USA
Page : 425 pages
File Size : 53,7 Mb
Release : 2016
Category : Medical
ISBN : 9780190217013
This title brings together work on embodiment, action, and the predictive mind. At the core is the vision of human minds as prediction machines - devices that constantly try to stay one step ahead of the breaking waves of sensory stimulation, by actively predicting the incoming flow. In every situation we encounter, that complex prediction machinery is already buzzing, proactively trying to anticipate the sensory barrage. The book shows in detail how this strange but potent strategy of self-anticipation ushers perception, understanding, and imagination simultaneously onto the cognitive stage.
Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 384 pages
File Size : 55,9 Mb
Release : 2015-07-21
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780698163744
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.
Author : Kirsty Eagar
Publisher : Penguin UK
Page : 255 pages
File Size : 53,8 Mb
Release : 2009-06-29
Category : Juvenile Fiction
ISBN : 9780857965707
Award-winning novelby Kirsty Eagar, author of Saltwater Vampires and Night Beach. Raw Blue was awardedthe 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards Young Adult Fiction prize. Readersof Tim Winton's Breathwill be drawn to Raw Blue, an achingly beautiful young adult novel set in Sydney's northern beaches.Winner of the 2010 Victorian Premier's Literary Awards, it is a haunting storyabout finding your passion in life. Carly has dropped out of uni to spend her days surfing and her nights working as a cook in a Manly cafe. Surfing is the one thing she loves doing ... and the only thing that helps her stop thinking about what happened two years ago. Then she meets Ryan and Carly has to decide.Will shelet the past bury her? Orcan shelet go of her anger and shame, and find the courage to be happy? Check out Kirsty Eagar'swebsite at www.kirstyeagar.com,and read herblogto find out about her thoughts on books, writing, music, surfing, and finding inspiration, or visit betweenthelines.com.au -the destination for Young Adult books. Praise for Raw Blue: 'Kirsty Eagar's fearless Raw Blue, a story of regeneration set on Sydney's northern beaches, is much more than just a promising debut: this one delivers.' Australian Book Review Best Books of 2009: Critics' Choices 'Kirsty Eagar's first novel explores dark territory with skill and sensitivity.' The Age 'An emotionally rich and powerful first novel.' Canberra Times 'If you only read one book this year ... it should be Kirsty Eagar's Raw Blue one of those kept-me-up-all-night novels that stays in your bones and sings in your ears long after you've finished it. It wouldn't be out of place next to Tim Winton's Breath, except this is the ocean as healer, not as an object to be conquered, or the site of self-destruction, of risk. The images crackle, the lines are full of the poetry of observation, the story is searing, gutting, beautiful. This should be compulsory reading for all teenagers especially boys.' julialawrinson.livejournal.com 'This is a psychologically intense novel that involves even non-surfing readers in the release Carly feels when conquering the waves we empathise with her in the long battle between desire and fear on the path to self-acceptance.' Magpies 'I read this book feverishly, desperate for a happy ending, and afterwards found it difficult to get Carly and the men who ride into her life out of my mind.' Newcastle Herald '[a] very moving book It's dark subject matter, but Eagar makes it uplifting.' Sunday Territorian 'A memorable first book by a writer who gives an honest approach to what young adults face growing up and growing wiser.' Woman's Day Read of the Week