The Book Of Surfing

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Cocaine + Surfing

Author : Chas Smith
Publisher : Rare Bird Books
Page : 188 pages
File Size : 49,9 Mb
Release : 2019-12-11
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 1644280337

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Cocaine + Surfing by Chas Smith Pdf

From the author of Welcome to Paradise, Now Go To Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction One of Pearl Jam's Jeff Ament's Top 10 of 2018 It's no surprise that surfers like to party. The 1960-70s image, bolstered by Tom Wolfe and Big Wednesday, was one of mild outlaws--tanned boys refusing to grow up, spending their days drinking beer and smoking joints on the beach in between mindless hours in the water. But in the 1980s, as surf brands morphed into multibillion-dollar companies, the derelict portrait began to harm business. The external surf image became Kelly Slater and Laird Hamilton, beacons of health, vitality, bravery, and clean-living. Internally, though, surfing had moved on from booze and weed to its heart's true home, its soul's twin flame: cocaine. The rise of cocaine in American popular culture as the choice of rich, white elites was matched, then quadrupled, within surf culture. The parties got wilder, the nights stretched longer, the stories became more ridiculously unbelievable. And there has been no stopping, no dip in passion. It is a forbidden love, and few, if any, outside the surf world know about this particular rhapsody. Drug use is kept very well-hidden, even from insiders, but evidence of its psychosis rears its head from time to time in the form of overdoses, bar fights, surf contests, murders, and cover-ups. Cocaine + Surfing draws back the curtain on a hopped-up, sometimes-sexy, sometimes-deadly relationship and uses cocaine as the vehicle to expose and explain the utterly absurd surf industry to outsiders.

The Cedar Surf

Author : Grant Shilling
Publisher : Transmontanus
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2003
Category : Surfing
ISBN : 0921586930

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The Cedar Surf by Grant Shilling Pdf

Surf's upBut don't bother to put on your bikini. This is BC's WET coast, where the water temperature never goes above eleven degrees Celsius. BC surfers have been paddling out to catch waves at Sombrio Beach, Tofino, Ucluelet and Jordan River for over forty years. Today, a mixture of Vancouver Island's first families of surfing and newcomers to the sport fight for position on the water but party hardy together on the beach. Join author Grant Shilling as he takes us on a wild ride through BC's surf culture, from the squatters who started it all to the new economics of surf. The Cedar Surf: An Informal History of Surfing in British Columbia is Number 10 in the Transmontanus series of books edited by Terry Glavin.

The Encyclopedia of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Page : 820 pages
File Size : 41,8 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : Reference
ISBN : 0156032511

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The Encyclopedia of Surfing by Matt Warshaw Pdf

With 1,500 alphabetical entries and 300 illustrations, this resource is a comprehensive review of the people, places, events, equipment, vernacular, and lively history of this fascinating sport.

The Book of Surfing

Author : Michael Fordham
Publisher : Harper Collins
Page : 525 pages
File Size : 49,5 Mb
Release : 2012-12-26
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9780062242020

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The Book of Surfing by Michael Fordham Pdf

Everything you need to know about waves Classic surf trips, from California to Cornwall Iconic surf movies and legendary image-makers Profiles of surfing greats, including Miki Dora, Nat Young, and Kelly Slater Practical advice—from becoming a greener surfer to travel essentials and how surfing conquered the world! It was the sport of Polynesian princes whose names have been lost to history. It is a lifestyle, an art, a sacred rite, a belief system—a unique way of being that deeply tunes the wave-rider into the planet's natural rhythms. It is a billion-dollar industry with millionaire superstars. It is ocean and adrenaline and magic. The Book of Surfing is a one-stop killer guide to the complete surfing universe for the long-time enthusiast and movie alike.

The History of Surfing

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
Page : 498 pages
File Size : 42,8 Mb
Release : 2010-09
Category : History
ISBN : 9780811856003

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The History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw Pdf

Matt Warshaw knows more about surfing than any other person on the planet. After five years of research and writing, Warshaw has crafted an unprecedented history of the sport and the culture it has spawned. At nearly 500 pages, with 250,000 words and more than 250 rare photographs, The History of Surfing reveals and defines this sport with a voice that is authoritative, funny, and wholly original. The obsessive nature of this endeavor is matched only by the obsessive nature of surfers, who will pore through these pages with passion and opinion. A true category killer, here is the definitive history of surfing.

How Green Was Our Wave

Author : Kevin Cavey
Publisher : Trafford Publishing
Page : 183 pages
File Size : 45,5 Mb
Release : 2017-10-17
Category : History
ISBN : 9781490784823

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How Green Was Our Wave by Kevin Cavey Pdf

1970, Irish team competes in Jersey Channel Islands. Left to right: Harry Evans, Dave Kenny, Hugh O’Brien Moran, David Govan, Roger Steadman, Eamon Matthews, Bo Vance, Kevin Cavey, Alan Duke. This nostalgic story takes one back to the beginning of surfing in Ireland, which was hammered into reality by one ambitious youth attempting to live the dream. He was entranced by the Hawaiian Islands and sunny California and thus yearned to make Ireland in that image. This meant expanding the sport and putting Ireland on the world map of surfing nations, and that’s just what happened. Much of this was inspired by his reading an article in the 1962 edition of Reader’s Digest. The story depicted surfers in Oahu on head-high waves, just like the waves in Ireland, he thought! As he went, he gathered supporters and soon formed Ireland’s first surf club. In March 1966, they mounted an exhibit stand in at the Irish Boat Show. At this show valuable contacts were made that were to become lifelong. His club went on a series of surfaris around the coast and introduced the sport in such places as Strandhill, Rossnowlagh, and Tramore. He then competed in the 1966 World Surfing Championships in San Diego and, with his colleagues, staged the first Irish Surfing Championships in Tramore, County Waterford, in September of 1967. The story tells of the people who responded to the clarion call and just how proficient these surfers were to become. It also relates comical yarns, told by the people they met on their way, and also the encounters that early surfers experienced as they attempted to make fiberglass boards—and then try them in the heaving ocean. The book concludes with a look at the 2006 Silver Surfari celebrating the fifty years of the sport. Old timers returned for the event held in Lahinch, County Clare, and Rossnowlagh, County Donegal. All this was done because it was felt that before the passage of time dimmed memories of old, it was good to rally those icons to whom so much is owed.

Taj Burrow's Book of Hot Surfing

Author : Taj Burrow
Publisher : Wilderness Press
Page : 188 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2003
Category : Reference
ISBN : 0975070606

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Taj Burrow's Book of Hot Surfing by Taj Burrow Pdf

By 1998, aged 21, Taj Burrow was the number 2 rated surfer in the world. Raised in the WA town of Yallingup, Taj has become the hottest property in surfing. His bio film, Montaj, was voted by Surfer magazine as the best surf movie in the world - so who better to teach you how to surf? TB's Book of Hot Surfing will teach you absolutely everything you'll need to know, from buying your first board and waxing it to your first real turns to crazy air tricks like alley oops and flips. And that's not all! Mixed into this fabulously produced full-colour book are tons of photo sequences, TB's tips on surfing and life (how to avoid being a racist, better tables manners etc), TB's surf-speak and an often hilarious stash of personal anecdotes. The most complete surfing how-to guide ever produced, this will become a must-have for surfers and would-be surfers everywhere.

Surfing USA!

Author : Jeff Divine, Ben Marcus
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 216 pages
File Size : 49,5 Mb
Release : 2024-06-13
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 1610606868

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Surfing USA! by Jeff Divine, Ben Marcus Pdf

A history of surfing in America by a man who grew up surfing southern California in the 1970s and was there through all the big developments. This book will look at how the sport developed, the science of big waves, surfer personalities, the evolution of boards, and surf culture from movies to rock'n'roll to hot rodding. Along with the narrative text will be a large archives of surfing memorabilia, movie posters, album covers, and pop art. With photographs and artwork by Jeff Divine, John Severson, LeRoy Grannis, Ron Dahlquist, Rick Griffin, Greg Noll, Doc Ball, and more.

The Surfer Spirit

Author : Cynthia A. DeRosier
Publisher : Free Time Productions, LLC
Page : 32 pages
File Size : 54,5 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : Spiritual life
ISBN : 9780976954804

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The Surfer Spirit by Cynthia A. DeRosier Pdf

Awe-inspiring, uplifting, and beautifully motivating, The Surfer Spirit is a book unlike any other surf book. Stunning in its simplicity, the book features breathtaking images accentuated with simple, yet profound sentiments. Together, the words and imagery on each page reflect the way in which surfing keeps us in communion with nature, reconnecting us with our spirits each time our boards meet the water. Photos by world-renowned surf photographers John Bilderback and Jeff Divine feature Kelly Slater, Perry Dane, Taj Burrow, Rochelle Ballard, epic waves and more. A fabulous book for surfers and non-surfers alike.

The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best

Author : Nick Carroll
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 95 pages
File Size : 50,9 Mb
Release : 2007
Category : Surfing
ISBN : 0957733534

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The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best by Nick Carroll Pdf

The Complete Guide to Surfing Your Best volume two unlocks the core secrets of surfing skills and knowledge previously held only by the sport's elite. This book is designed to help surfers of all abilities develop their own technique and style, to be the best they can be, and enjoy every wave to the utmost. Written and edited by the world's most-respected surf journalist Nick Carroll, this book carries no less than 500 instructional images.

The History of Surfing

Author : Nat Young
Publisher : Gibbs Smith Publishers
Page : 222 pages
File Size : 45,6 Mb
Release : 2006-07-14
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781423601210

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The History of Surfing by Nat Young Pdf

This book covers the full gamut of surfing topics, including the history,rofessionalism, surfboard evolution, professional surfers, the Hawaiianslands, kneeboards, wave skills, windsurfers, and the future of surfing. Itlso includes lots and lots of rare color photos covering surfing's excitingast and present.

A Word on Waves

Author : John Angiulo
Publisher : CreateSpace
Page : 102 pages
File Size : 48,6 Mb
Release : 2015-08-05
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 1511957239

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A Word on Waves by John Angiulo Pdf

A Word On Waves combines the author's twenty-two years of surf experience, ten years of professional surf instruction and his personal philosophy on surfing. Through this, John Angiulo has created a book that is a resource for anyone who wants to develop, refresh or enhance their understanding of surfing's moving parts. This includes a detailed analysis of key concepts in the art of reading and riding waves that are unknown to beginners. Through his perspective on surfing John Angiulo imparts to others a sense of reverence for the activity and an awareness of the profound effects it can have on every aspect of life. From health and happiness to family and creativity, A Word On Waves manages to touch on a wide array of subjects within the surf realm. It is a book that emphasizes mentality and the necessity to have fun in surfing. Read it prior to surfing and return to time and time again to sharpen your mastery of yourself in the ocean.

Surf Book

Author : Joel Tudor
Publisher : Channel Photographics
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2004
Category : Surfer photography
ISBN : 097440294X

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Surf Book by Joel Tudor Pdf

A remarkable compilation of images and text, where legendary surfer Joel Tudor and acclaimed photographer Michael Halsband team up to take the viewers on a unique surfing odyssey. The book features just about every famous surfer ever - from the Irons Brothers to LeRoy Grannis.

Maverick's

Author : Matt Warshaw
Publisher : Chronicle Books
Page : 286 pages
File Size : 52,7 Mb
Release : 2000-08
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 081182652X

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Maverick's by Matt Warshaw Pdf

With heart-stopping photography and a driving text, "Maverick's" tracks the five most dangerous days in the break's history. Surf journalist Matt Warshaw weaves into this vivid record the complete, unconventional history of big-wave surfing, from its Hawaiian origins through to the modern drama of tow-in surfers. More than 130 color and b&w illustrations.

Surfing Long Beach Island

Author : Caroline Unger
Publisher : Xlibris Corporation
Page : 211 pages
File Size : 46,7 Mb
Release : 2003-07-15
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 1469105950

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Surfing Long Beach Island by Caroline Unger Pdf

This book is a must read for all East Coast surfers who may have felt at sometime that they should apologize for where they are from. The stories and pictures in this book are sure to make the East Coast surfer proud, while sharing a universal story line with surfers all around the world. These stories could very well have taken place in Hawaii or California but, they didnt. The major theme is an eighteen-mile barrier island off the New Jersey coastline known as Long Beach Island (LBI). Every individual in this book is somehow connected to the island. Through a series of short stories from the 1930s to the 21st Century, you will be moved by what these individuals have accomplished in the surfing community as well as the real world. Turn the pages to find out who is an innovator of snowboard technology; a photo editor for Surfer magazine; writer/producer of a Nickelodeon cartoon; and an award recipient from the president of the United States. Meet local surfing legends: Wimpy, Tinker, and Huckleberry. Find out what surfing pioneers did in the days before surfing wetsuits and wax. Travel around the world and through time for: Surfing in Vietnam during the Vietnam War; Running a surf hostile in Puerto Rico in the 1990s; Capturing storm surf on film for the last twenty years from all over the globe. Learn what unique surfing product came to a local surfer in a dream and how the internationally known franchise - Ron Jon Surf Shop, got its start on LBI. Youre sure to enjoy the Why We Surf section with unedited material from our local surfers, ages fifteen to sixty-three. Hear about some of their most memorable surfing experiences and gain their deepest insights about this incredible sport and lifestyle. The book has over one hundred pictures from family collections, 60s surf magazines, and professional portfolios of some of the top surfing photographers. Surfing collectors will especially enjoy some of the vintage material. Surfing the Web will give you the links you need for everything from weather information to lodging on LBI. For those of you who are still learning about LBI, Local Breaks gives you the low-down about surfing conditions and even parking. There is something in Surfing LBI for surfers of every age and level of expertise. Its a feel good book that will leave you stoked every time you open it.