Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth

Author : Fanny Wonu Veys
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2017-01-26
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474283304

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Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth by Fanny Wonu Veys Pdf

Tongan barkcloth, made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree, still features lavishly in Polynesian ceremonies all over the world. Yet despite the attention paid to this textile by anthropologists and art historians alike, little is known about its history. Providing a unique insight into Polynesian material culture, this book explores barkcloth's rich cultural history, and argues that its manufacture, decoration and use are vehicles of creativity and female agency. Based on twelve years of extensive ethnographic and archival research, the book uncovers stories of ceremony, gender, the senses, religion and nationhood, from the 17th century up to the present-day. Placing the materiality of textiles at the heart of Tongan culture, Veys reveals not only how barkcloth was and continues to be made, but also how it defines what it means to be Tongan. Extending the study to explore the place of barkcloth in the European imagination, she examines international museum collections of Tongan barkcloth, from the UK and Italy to Switzerland and the USA, addressing the bias of the European 'gaze' and challenging traditional gendered understandings of the cloth. A nuanced narrative of past and present barkcloth manufacture, designs and use, Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth demonstrates the importance of the textile to both historical and contemporary Polynesian culture.

Author : Fanny Wonu Veys
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 55,5 Mb
Release : 2017-01-26
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474283311

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Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth by Fanny Wonu Veys Pdf

Tongan barkcloth, made from the inner bark of the paper mulberry tree, still features lavishly in Polynesian ceremonies all over the world. Yet despite the attention paid to this textile by anthropologists and art historians alike, little is known about its history. Providing a unique insight into Polynesian material culture, this book explores barkcloth's rich cultural history, and argues that its manufacture, decoration and use are vehicles of creativity and female agency. Based on twelve years of extensive ethnographic and archival research, the book uncovers stories of ceremony, gender, the senses, religion and nationhood, from the 17th century up to the present-day. Placing the materiality of textiles at the heart of Tongan culture, Veys reveals not only how barkcloth was and continues to be made, but also how it defines what it means to be Tongan. Extending the study to explore the place of barkcloth in the European imagination, she examines international museum collections of Tongan barkcloth, from the UK and Italy to Switzerland and the USA, addressing the bias of the European 'gaze' and challenging traditional gendered understandings of the cloth. A nuanced narrative of past and present barkcloth manufacture, designs and use, Unwrapping Tongan Barkcloth demonstrates the importance of the textile to both historical and contemporary Polynesian culture.

Author : Anna-Karina Hermkens,Katherine Lepani
Publisher : ANU Press
Page : 323 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2017-08-18
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781760461348

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Sinuous Objects by Anna-Karina Hermkens,Katherine Lepani Pdf

Some 40 years ago, Pacific anthropology was dominated by debates about ‘women’s wealth’. These exchanges were generated by Annette Weiner’s (1976) critical reappraisal of Bronis?aw Malinowski’s classic work on the Trobriand Islands, and her observations that women’s production of ‘wealth’ (banana leaf bundles and skirts) for elaborate transactions in mortuary rituals occupied a central role in Trobriand matrilineal cosmology and social organisation. This volume brings the debates about women’s wealth back to the fore by critically revisiting and engaging with ideas about gender and materiality, value, relationality and the social life and agency of things. The chapters, interspersed by three poems, evoke the sinuous materiality of the different objects made by women across the Pacific, and the intimate relationship between these objects of value and sensuous, gendered bodies. In the Epilogue, Professor Margaret Jolly observes how the volume also ‘trace[s] a more abstract sinuosity in the movement of these things through time and place, as they coil through different regimes of value … The eight chapters … trace winding paths across the contemporary Pacific, from the Trobriands in Milne Bay, to Maisin, Wanigela and Korafe in Oro Province, Papua New Guinea, through the islands of Tonga to diasporic Tongan and Cook Islander communities in New Zealand’. This comparative perspective elucidates how women’s wealth is defined, valued and contested in current exchanges, bride-price debates, church settings, development projects and the challenges of living in diaspora. Importantly, this reveals how women themselves preserve the different values and meanings in gift-giving and exchanges, despite processes of commodification that have resulted in the decline or replacement of ‘women’s wealth’.

Author : Patricia Lorraine Arkinstall
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 476 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 1966
Category : Ethnology
ISBN : STANFORD:36105033931424

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A Study of Bark Cloth from Hawaii, Samoa, Tonga and Fiji by Patricia Lorraine Arkinstall Pdf

Author : Joan G. Winter
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 87 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2009
Category : Tapa
ISBN : 0980323398

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Talking Tapa by Joan G. Winter Pdf

"Talking TAPA: Pasifika Bark Cloth in Queensland showcases the diversity of Pacific Islander cultural practices, heritage and visual iconography through beaten bark cloth or tapa, which is mainly made from the paper mulberry tree inner bark. Tapa can be made up to a kilometre long, in a variety of shapes and smaller sizes for many different purposes. Tapa decoration includes plant and animal motifs, clan and family patterning and representations of important contemporary and historical events. Works from the Pacific Islands including: Papua New Guinea, West Papua, Samoa, Tonga, Solomon Islands, Vanuatu, Fiji, Wallis and Futuna, will be on show. Visitors can learn more about our Pacific neighbours through the wall hangings, traditional and contemporary clothing including wedding outfits, as well as the tools and implements used to make tapa that will be on display." --Publisher.

Author : Arthur Maurice Hocart
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 264 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 1929
Category : Ethnology
ISBN : UOM:39015004992254

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Lau Islands, Fiji by Arthur Maurice Hocart Pdf

Author : Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 262 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 1971
Category : Anthropology
ISBN : PSU:000020554149

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Bernice P. Bishop Museum Bulletin by Bernice Pauahi Bishop Museum Pdf

Author : Steven Hooper
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 300 pages
File Size : 43,6 Mb
Release : 2006
Category : Art
ISBN : STANFORD:36105123586120

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Pacific Encounters by Steven Hooper Pdf

"Pacific Encounters brings together for the first time many stunning Polynesian objects collected by voyagers and missionaries during the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries." "Illustrated are over 270 items gathered from the major regions of Polynesia. Many are from the British Museum, which houses fine and rare material from the expeditions of Captain Cook, Captain Vancouver and members of the London Missionary Society. Ranging from massive images of gods to small fish hooks, they are discussed in the contexts of their local use and meanings, and their journeys to museums all over the world. These pieces have remarkable stories to tell of encounters between humans and their gods, between Polynesians and Europeans, their respective chiefs and priests, beliefs and technologies."--BOOK JACKET.

Author : Sarah E. Braddock Clarke,Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 401 pages
File Size : 50,7 Mb
Release : 2022-08-11
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350099326

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Byzantine Silk on the Silk Roads by Sarah E. Braddock Clarke,Ryoko Yamanaka Kondo Pdf

With over 200 color illustrations, Byzantine Silk on the Silk Roads examines in detail the eclectic iconography of the Byzantine period and its impact on design and creativity today. Through an examination of the extraordinary variety of designs in these captivating silks, an international team of experts reveal that Byzantine culture was ever-moving and open to diverse influences across the length of the Silk Road. Commentaries from curators at key collections – including the Museum of Arts, Boston, the Smithsonian (Cooper Hewitt), the V&A and the Vatican – reveal the spread of silk embroidery and designs from East to West, and from West to East, from China to Rome, and from Constantinople to Korea. Drawing on exclusive imagery from worldwide collections within museums, churches and archives as case studies, their analysis of these unique woven silks explores the relationship between color and power, material culture and status, and offers broader insight into Byzantine culture, trade, society and ceremony. Byzantine Silk ... takes us on a journey from the past to the present, too, where Byzantine story-telling and image-making is revisited, through color, imagery and pattern, in contemporary fashion collections. Exploring Byzantine culture through a contemporary filter, the book shows how the Byzantine era still influences textile and fashion designers today in their choices of materials and colors, and their utilization of images and patterns, acting as a unique source of inspiration to designers and creators in the 21st century.

Author : Bryony Onciul,Michelle L. Stefano,Stephanie Hawke
Publisher : Boydell & Brewer
Page : 258 pages
File Size : 47,8 Mb
Release : 2017
Category : Reference
ISBN : 9781783271658

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Engaging Heritage, Engaging Communities by Bryony Onciul,Michelle L. Stefano,Stephanie Hawke Pdf

International, multi-disciplinary perspectives on the key question of community engagement in theory and practice in a diverse range of heritage settings.

Author : Lucie Carreau,Alison Clark,Alana Jelinek,Erna Lilje,Nicholas Thomas
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2018
Category : ART
ISBN : 9088905916

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Pacific Presences by Lucie Carreau,Alison Clark,Alana Jelinek,Erna Lilje,Nicholas Thomas Pdf

Hundreds of thousands of works of art and artefacts from many parts of the Pacific are dispersed across European museums. They range from seemingly quotidian things such as fish-hooks and baskets to great sculptures of divinities, architectural forms and canoes. These collections constitute a remarkable resource for understanding history and society across Oceania, cross-cultural encounters since the voyages of Captain Cook, and the colonial transformations that have taken place since. They are also collections of profound importance for Islanders today, who have varied responses to their disp.

Author : Roger Neich,Mick Pendergrast
Publisher : University of Hawaii Press
Page : 170 pages
File Size : 54,7 Mb
Release : 2005-01-31
Category : Art
ISBN : 0824829298

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Pacific Tapa by Roger Neich,Mick Pendergrast Pdf

Auckland Museum's collection of tapa cloth from around the Pacific is one of the most extensive in the world and it forms the basis of this comprehensive survey.

Author : Lorinda Cramer
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 264 pages
File Size : 55,6 Mb
Release : 2019-09-05
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350069633

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Needlework and Women’s Identity in Colonial Australia by Lorinda Cramer Pdf

In gold-rush Australia, social identity was in flux: gold promised access to fashionable new clothes, a grand home, and the goods to furnish it, but could not buy gentility. Needlework and Women's Identity in Colonial Australia explores how the wives, mothers, sisters, and daughters who migrated to the newly formed colony of Victoria used their needle skills as a powerful claim to social standing. Focusing on one of women's most common daily tasks, the book examines how needlework's practice and products were vital in the contest for social position in the turmoil of the first two decades of the Victorian rush from 1851. Placing women firmly at the center of colonial history, it explores how the needle became a tool for stitching together identity. From decorative needlework to household making and mending, women's sewing was a vehicle for establishing, asserting, and maintaining social status. Interdisciplinary in scope, Needlework and Women's Identity in Colonial Australia draws on material culture, written primary sources, and pictorial evidence, to create a rich portrait of the objects and manners that defined genteel goldfields living. Giving voice to women's experiences and positioning them as key players in the fabric of gold-rush society, this volume offers a fresh critical perspective on gender and textile history.

Author : Fiona Anderson
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 232 pages
File Size : 51,7 Mb
Release : 2016-12-15
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474263214

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Tweed by Fiona Anderson Pdf

The story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men's and women's fashion. Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed's evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.

Author : Mary H. Kingsley
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 842 pages
File Size : 40,5 Mb
Release : 1897
Category : Africa, West
ISBN : STANFORD:36105048627330

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Travels in West Africa by Mary H. Kingsley Pdf

As a dutiful Victorian daughter, the author was thirty before being freed (by her parents' deaths) to do as she chose. She went to West Africa in 1893 and again in 1895, to investigate the beliefs and customs of the inland tribes and also to collect zoological specimens. She was appalled by the 'thin veneer of rubbishy white culture' imposed by British officials and was not afraid to say so.