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Black gloves with golden fingernails, buttons shaped like lips, trompe l'oeil images, brightly coloured zips and perfume bottles in the shape of a torso would not be out of place in fashion today, but they were created by Schiaparelli in the 1930s. A true original, she collaborated with artists such as Salvador Dali and Man Ray, pioneered the runway show and designed costumes for film-stars from Mae West to Marlene Dietrich. She used film and stage as a publicity vehicle for her label, and her advertising graphics were far ahead of their time. Through the photographs and illustrations of Vogue that championed Schiaparelli from the first picture of her revolutionary Bow-knot sweater in 1927 to the Surrealist Tears dress and Shoe hat of the late 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli presents the enduring legacy of this daring and visionary designer.
Shocking, witty and eccentric, the designs of Elsa Schiaparelli are among the most innovative and influential in the history of fashion. Black gloves with golden fingernails, buttons shaped like lips, trompe l'oeil images, brightly coloured zips and perfume bottles in the shape of a torso would not be out of place in fashion today, but they were created by Schiaparelli in the 1930s. A true original, she collaborated with artists such as Salvador Dali and Man Ray, pioneered the runway show and designed costumes for film-stars from Mae West to Marlene Dietrich. She used film and stage as a publicity vehicle for her label, and her advertising graphics were far ahead of their time. Through the photographs and illustrations of Vogue that championed Schiaparelli from the first picture of her revolutionary Bow-knot sweater in 1927 to the Surrealist Tears dress and Shoe hat of the late 1930s, Elsa Schiaparelli presents the enduring legacy of this daring and visionary designer. Vogue, the international fashion bible, has charted the careers of designers through the decades. Its unique archive of photographs, taken by the leading photographers of the day from Cecil Beaton to Mario Testino, and original illustrations, together with its stable of highly respected fashion writers, make Vogue the most authoritative and prestigious source of reference on fashion. With a circulation of over 160,000 and a readership of over 1,400,000, no brand is better positioned to present a library on the great fashion designers of the modern age.
Schiaparelli & Prada by Andrew Bolton,Harold Koda Pdf
"The Met's Spring 2012 Costume Institute exhibition, Schiaparelli and Prada: Impossible Conversations, explores the striking affinities between Elsa Schiaparelli and Miuccia Prada, two Italian designers from different eras. Inspired by Miguel Covarrubias's "Impossible Interviews" for Vanity Fair in the 1930s, the exhibition features orchestrated conversations between these iconic women to suggest new readings of their most innovative work. Iconic ensembles will be presented with videos of simulated conversations between Schiaparelli and Prada directed by Baz Luhrmann, focusing on how both women explore similar themes in their work through very different approaches."--MMA website.
How They Decorated illustrates some of the great rooms of the twentieth century, whose stylish residents influence our tastes today. Gloria Vanderbilt cleverly noted, “Decorating is autobiography.” Reflecting that truism, the interiors in this book capture the individual approaches of these icons of style: Bunny Mellon’s spare all-American elegance; Hélène Rochas’s refined sophistication; Vanessa Bell’s colorful bohemianism; Mona von Bismarck’s breezy opulence; and Georgia O’Keeffe’s earthy chic. Author P. Gaye Tapp analyzes each of her subjects’ refined way of living, how she embellished her residences (or left them elegantly stark), and the long-lasting effects on today’s generation of designers and connoisseurs of beauty. The book is presented in four sections that describe the aesthetic approaches that the ladies took in decorating their abodes: “The Fashionably Chic”, “The Unconventional Eye”, “In the Grand Manner”, and “Legacy Style”. Each interior illustrates the crucial aspect of the lady’s definitive taste. Some worked closely with decorating legends such as John Fowler, Albert Hadley, Billy Baldwin, Syrie Maugham, and Jean-Michel Frank. Others took to the task of decorating single-handedly—like Pauline Trigère, Sybil Connolly, Vita Sackville-West, and Fleur Cowles. The interiors of these trendsetting ladies defied their time and inspire and delight to this day. In How They Decorated, one can learn from the most notable style muses of the last century.
The first biography of the grand couturier, surrealist, and embattled figure (her medium was apparel), whose extraordinary work has stood the test of time. Her style was a social revolution through clothing-luxurious, eccentric, ironic, sexy; synonymous with fashion innovation and chicesse. She was audacious; her fashions were inspired from the whimsical to the most practical-from a Venetian cape of the commedia dell'arte to a Soviet parachute. She collaborated on her designs with some of the greatest artists of the twentieth-century: on jewelry with Jean Schlumberger; on clothes with Salvador Dalí; with Jean Cocteau, Alberto Giacometti; with photographers Man Ray, Horst, Cecil Beaton, and the young Richard Avedon. Her name: Elsa Schiaparelli. She was known as the Queen of Fashion; a headline attraction in the international glitter-glamour show of the late twenties and thirties; she gave fabulous parties-and went to those given by others; she lived and worked seriously and hard in much-photographed residences and was a guest at others; she knew the "everybodies" who were always "there" and inevitably became one of them herself, feted in Rome (where she was born), Paris, New York, London, Moscow, Dallas, Hollywood, Dublin. Now, Meryle Secrest, acclaimed biographer-whose work has been called "enthralling" (WSJ); "captivating" (WP Book World); "Rich in detail, scrupulously researched, sympathetically written" (NYRB), and who has captured the lives of many of the twentieth-century's most iconic, cultural figures, among them: Frank Lloyd Wright, Bernard Berenson, Leonard Bernstein, Duveen; Richard Rodgers; Modigliani; Stephen Sondheim-gives us the never-before-told story of this most extraordinary fashion designer, perhaps the most extraordinary fashion designer of the twentieth-century, who in her time was more famous than Chanel.
Elsa Schiaparelli (1890-1973) was the premier style arbiter of the 1930s - a favourite designer for women who made the best-dressed list, of female sports heroes, and of film and theatre actresses. This book takes a comprehensive look at the work of this startling and innovative Paris fashion designer. Shocking explores the Italian-born designer's career from its modernist beginnings in the 1920s to the closing of her salon in 1954. relationship with the American fashion industry, the foundation of her great success. She also addresses how Schiaparelli's early designs were acclaimed for the architectural quality of her silhouettes and her use of unconventional materials. After 1935 the designer's collections took on a new identity, partly from her close relationship with the Parisian artistic community, which included Man Ray, Salvador Dali, Jean Cocteau, and Alberto Giacometti. and accessories, this book also includes contemporary photos of her designs by such key fashion photographers as Horst and Cecil Beaton and sketches and stills from the films and plays with which she was associated. Together the text and illustrations celebrate a masterful designer who defined dressmaking as an art rather than a profession.
At an early age, BillyBoy* chose two mentors: Bugs Bunny and Elsa Schiaparelli. From Bugs Bunny, he learned the basics of how to behave in society and how to manage life’s wicked turns; to be coy, smart, witty, and to always dress appropriately with the assurance of Beau Brummell. But most of all, his cartoon mentor taught him a lighthearted approach to life, and an entertaining charm that is to personality what humor is to good conversation. From Schiaparelli, who he discovered at age fourteen through a very strange hat in a Paris flea market, he learned the meanings of love and art. His human mentor opened doors that he “never even dreamed existed,” as the title character says to her nephew in Auntie Mame. As Schiap turned into a genuine passion, she became a golden thread that led to all sorts of discoveries, encounters, and inspirations over the next forty years. A wealthy orphan with a glamorous but complicated background, BillyBoy* adopted the legendary designer as a guardian angel of sorts, and has spent a lifetime searching for her, through her clothes. Inspired by Shocking Life, Schiaparelli's own memoir, FROCKING LIFE will resonate with anyone who loves fashion and flamboyant storytelling. Built around some of the most iconic pieces ever created by the designer, this book is about endless discoveries, and the meaning that can be transmitted, across decades, by a simple piece of clothing. Peopled by dazzling characters from Schiaparelli's own inner circle and the worlds of art and fashion— Saint Laurent, Vreeland, Warhol to name a few—this is a scintillating yet profound homage to a woman who saw life as art, and inspired a young boy to do the same. BillyBoy* has always been a strange fruit and it must be said, not everyone could have a bite of it. The press adored him since he was, as author Edmund White wrote, “good copy.” In fact, his thrilling journey through fashion, culture, and art are deeply tied to what he wore for each occasion. One day, it is a skintight silver lamé studded outfit by Nudie Cohen (the designer of Elvis Presley’s elaborate ensembles), which was originally made for David Cassidy. For a tea with the Begum Aga Khan at the Ritz, he played the part of the dandy in a conservative suit with impeccable tie, topped by a Vivienne Westwood/Malcolm McClaren Buffalo hat adorned with a silk lettuce leaf. For an interview at home with German Vogue, he transformed into a sex kitten in hot pants and an Yves Saint Laurent sheer blouse. This book is both BillyBoy*'s personal story of his intense spiritual and metaphysical journey through life, and also his authoritative insight into the life and work of Elsa Schiaparelli who became such an influence on him. As an historian and collector, his close examination of the milieu of European and American, Scandinavian and Asian high fashion and his detailed research into Schiaparelli's haute couture seasonal collections (and her vast number of licensed fashion and accessories) will appeal not only to fashionistas and haute couture devotees and collectors. It explores their relationship to her era, through the many friendships and relationships with the iconic people in fashion he forged over four decades. Anecdotes of varied stars in all aspects of culture will interest those who study 20th-century art and history.
Schiaparelli and the Artists by André Leon Talley,Suzy Menkes,Christian Lacroix Pdf
Published on the occasion of the couture house’s ninetieth anniversary, this book celebrates Elsa Schiaparelli’s shared creative passion with the twentieth century’s most esteemed artists. Known for her bravado and boundary-pushing dresses, Elsa Schiaparelli is undoubtedly one of the greatest icons of twentieth-century fashion. After launching her eponymous haute couture house in Paris in 1927, the Roman-born designer captured the attention of the world at large not only thanks to her trompe l’oeil patterns and surrealist forms—but also because of her creative relationships with some of the epoch’s most renowned artists. From Salvador Dalí, who collaborated with Schiaparelli on her infamous Lobster Dress to Alberto Giacometti’s furnishings for her salon and René Magritte, whose surrealist works inspired some of the designer’s creations, this beautifully illustrated tome delves into the couturiere’s fascinating rapports with these artistic legends. Through never-before-seen photography, intimate anecdotes, and essays penned by some of today’s most authoritative fashion critics, curators, and personalities, this volume is the first definitive work dedicated to the shared inspiration between the designer and her circle of artist friends. Unique in its breadth of artwork and diverse contributors, this visually stunning book is a must for anyone interested in avant-garde art, twentieth-century fashion, or thought-provoking design.
Elsa Schiaparelli's Private Album by Marisa Schiaparelli Berenson Pdf
An elaborately illustrated, highly personal look at one of the most prominent fashion figures of the 20th century Elsa Schiaparelli is one of the most important couturiers and taste-makers of the 20th century. She numbered among her collaborators the artists Salvador Dalí, Jean Cocteau, Christian Berard, and Marcel Vernet, resulting in such extraordinary couture collaborations as the lobster and parsley dress, based on a print by Salvador Dalí, and the Circus collection of gold-embroidered jackets, based on drawings by Cocteau. These artists also became personal friends of Schiaparelli's and made wonderful screens and other works of applied art for her house in Paris, photographs of the interiors of which have never been published. Now, the actress Marisa Berenson reveals her private archive of pictures of her much-loved grandmother's house in all its wit and eccentricity and pens an affectionate first-hand memoir of "Schiap."
A dazzling first-person picture book biography of the life of iconic fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli by the award-winning team who created Julia, Child. Here is the life of iconic fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli, who as a little girl in Rome, was told by her own mamma that she was brutta. Ugly. So she decided to seek out beauty around her, and found it everywhere. What is beauty? Elsa wondered. She looked everywhere for beauty until something inside of Elsa blossomed, and she became an artist with an incredible imagination. Defining beauty on her own creative terms, Schiaparelli worked hard to develop her designs, and eventually bloomed into an extraordinary talent who dreamed up the most wonderful dresses, hats, shoes and jewelry. Why not a shoe for a hat? Why not a dress with drawers? And she invented a color: shocking pink! Her adventurous mind was the key to her happiness and success--and is still seen today in her legacy of wild imagination. Daring and different, Elsa Schiaparelli used art to make fashion, and it was quite marvelous. Kyo Maclear and Julie Morstad, the dynamic duo who created the critically acclaimed Julia, Child, team up again to bring to life the childhood memories and the inspiring milestones of the legendary Elsa Schiaparelli. With its warm, lyrical text and enchanting illustrations, Bloom shows readers how ingenuity, vision and self doubt all made Schiaparelli truly beautiful. A gift for her older fans and younger audiences who have yet to discover her genius, Bloom is sure to be an enthralling classic.
Hailed as 'the most influential female designer of the twentieth century', Coco Chanel pioneered classic easy-to-wear fashion for the modern woman. She arrived on the fashion scene when feathers, lace and ostentatious beads were favourites, and proceeded to re-invent couture using new materials, like jersey, for outfits that were suitable for everyday wear yet still elegant. With original illustrations and images from celebrated photographers, such as Cecil Beaton, Bronwyn Cosgrave traces the story of Coco Chanel's iconic designs and glamorous, racy life. In 1921 Coco opened her Chanel boutique in Paris - still a destination store today - and launched her first perfume, Chanel No.5. Perhaps her most important contribution to the fashion world was the simple, much-imitated 'little black dress' which made its debut in 1926. Other landmark creations include the Chanel suit and the quilted handbag. A testament to her lasting influence, these legendary designs remain as popular today as when they first appeared. Vogue, the international fashion bible, has charted the careers of designers through the decades. Its unique archive of photographs, taken by the leading photographers of the day from Cecil Beaton to Mario Testino, and original illustrations, together with its stable of highly respected fashion writers, make Vogue the most authoritative and prestigious source of reference on fashion. With a circulation of over 160,000 and a readership of over 1,400,000, no brand is better positioned to present a library on the great fashion designers of the modern age.
"The first biography of the grand couturier, surrealist, and embattled figure (her medium was apparel), whose extraordinary work has stood the test of time"--
A captivating selection of images by the world’s leading photographers celebrating one of the most recognized faces in fashion and film. Dubbed an “It Girl” by Yves Saint Laurent in the early 1970s, Marisa Berenson is the original modern muse-inspiring fashion designers, photographers, stylists, and fashion editors for over thirty years. Born of noble lineage-and the granddaughter of the famed fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli-Berenson’s meteoric rise began formally at age sixteen, leading to numerous covers and editorials in Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, and countless other high-end fashion and society magazines. Her timeless beauty and chameleonlike talent for transformation soon led to her entry into film, where she landed leading roles in the period films Cabaret, Death in Venice, and Stanley Kubrick’s lavish production of Barry Lyndon. This captivating collection of fashion editorials, magazine covers, film stills, and candid photos were captured by the leading photographers and filmmakers of the day, including Richard Avedon, Irving Penn, David Bailey, Hiro, Helmut Newton, Henry Clarke, Norman Parkinson, Robert Mapplethorpe, and Steven Meisel, among many others. This lavish yet intimate volume details a visual biography of Berenson, and demonstrates the lasting resilience that continues to make her an enthralling and legendary visage.
Using words and beautiful archival photos, British Vogue documents the illustrious career of one of the twentieth century’s greatest fashion designers. In 1947, Christian Dior stunned the fashion world with his first collection, the “New Look,” which transformed the way women dressed, and he continued to send shock waves with his later shows, significantly altering the fashion landscape. Vogue on Christian Dior tells the story of Dior’s search for the perfect line and how his unique style and vision of women’s ideal silhouette developed. One of the most famous designers of the 20th century, his name still fronts one of the most successful haute couture fashion houses. Vogue on Christian Dior is a volume from the series created by the editors of British Vogue. It features 20,000 words of original biography and history and is studded with 80 color and black-and-white images from their unique archive of photos taken by the leading photographers of the day, including Cecil Beaton, Horst P. Horst, Irving Penn, and Richard Avedon.
