Writing Fashion In Early Modern Italy

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Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy

Eugenia Paulicelli
Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy Book PDF

Author : Eugenia Paulicelli
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 510 pages
File Size : 55,9 Mb
Release : 2016-02-17
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781134787104

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Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy by Eugenia Paulicelli Pdf

The first comprehensive study on the role of Italian fashion and Italian literature, this book analyzes clothing and fashion as described and represented in literary texts and costume books in the Italy of the 16th and 17th centuries. Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy emphasizes the centrality of Italian literature and culture for understanding modern theories of fashion and gauging its impact in the shaping of codes of civility and taste in Europe and the West. Using literature to uncover what has been called the ’animatedness of clothing,’ author Eugenia Paulicelli explores the political meanings that clothing produces in public space. At the core of the book is the idea that the texts examined here act as maps that, first, pinpoint the establishment of fashion as a social institution of modernity; and, second, gauge the meaning of clothing at a personal and a political level. As well as Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier and Cesare Vecellio’s The Clothing of the Renaissance World, the author looks at works by Italian writers whose books are not yet available in English translation, such as those by Giacomo Franco, Arcangela Tarabotti, and Agostino Lampugnani. Paying particular attention to literature and the relevance of clothing in the shaping of codes of civility and style, this volume complements the existing and important works on Italian fashion and material culture in the Renaissance. It makes the case for the centrality of Italian literature and the interconnectedness of texts from a variety of genres for an understanding of the history of Italian style, and serves to contextualize the debate on dress in other European literatures.

Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy

Eugenia Paulicelli
Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy Book PDF

Author : Eugenia Paulicelli
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 278 pages
File Size : 49,9 Mb
Release : 2016-02-17
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781134787036

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Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy by Eugenia Paulicelli Pdf

The first comprehensive study on the role of Italian fashion and Italian literature, this book analyzes clothing and fashion as described and represented in literary texts and costume books in the Italy of the 16th and 17th centuries. Writing Fashion in Early Modern Italy emphasizes the centrality of Italian literature and culture for understanding modern theories of fashion and gauging its impact in the shaping of codes of civility and taste in Europe and the West. Using literature to uncover what has been called the ’animatedness of clothing,’ author Eugenia Paulicelli explores the political meanings that clothing produces in public space. At the core of the book is the idea that the texts examined here act as maps that, first, pinpoint the establishment of fashion as a social institution of modernity; and, second, gauge the meaning of clothing at a personal and a political level. As well as Castiglione’s The Book of the Courtier and Cesare Vecellio’s The Clothing of the Renaissance World, the author looks at works by Italian writers whose books are not yet available in English translation, such as those by Giacomo Franco, Arcangela Tarabotti, and Agostino Lampugnani. Paying particular attention to literature and the relevance of clothing in the shaping of codes of civility and style, this volume complements the existing and important works on Italian fashion and material culture in the Renaissance. It makes the case for the centrality of Italian literature and the interconnectedness of texts from a variety of genres for an understanding of the history of Italian style, and serves to contextualize the debate on dress in other European literatures.

The Hebrew Book in Early Modern Italy

Joseph R. Hacker,Adam Shear
The Hebrew Book in Early Modern Italy Book PDF

Author : Joseph R. Hacker,Adam Shear
Publisher : University of Pennsylvania Press
Page : 334 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2011-08-19
Category : Religion
ISBN : 9780812205091

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The Hebrew Book in Early Modern Italy by Joseph R. Hacker,Adam Shear Pdf

The rise of printing had major effects on culture and society in the early modern period, and the presence of this new technology—and the relatively rapid embrace of it among early modern Jews—certainly had an effect on many aspects of Jewish culture. One major change that print seems to have brought to the Jewish communities of Christian Europe, particularly in Italy, was greater interaction between Jews and Christians in the production and dissemination of books. Starting in the early sixteenth century, the locus of production for Jewish books in many places in Italy was in Christian-owned print shops, with Jews and Christians collaborating on the editorial and technical processes of book production. As this Jewish-Christian collaboration often took place under conditions of control by Christians (for example, the involvement of Christian typesetters and printers, expurgation and censorship of Hebrew texts, and state control of Hebrew printing), its study opens up an important set of questions about the role that Christians played in shaping Jewish culture. Presenting new research by an international group of scholars, this book represents a step toward a fuller understanding of Jewish book history. Individual essays focus on a range of issues related to the production and dissemination of Hebrew books as well as their audiences. Topics include the activities of scribes and printers, the creation of new types of literature and the transformation of canonical works in the era of print, the external and internal censorship of Hebrew books, and the reading interests of Jews. An introduction summarizes the state of scholarship in the field and offers an overview of the transition from manuscript to print in this period.

Italian Style

Eugenia Paulicelli
Italian Style Book PDF

Author : Eugenia Paulicelli
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing USA
Page : 288 pages
File Size : 51,9 Mb
Release : 2016-09-22
Category : Performing Arts
ISBN : 9781623568580

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Italian Style by Eugenia Paulicelli Pdf

This is the first in-depth, book-length study on fashion and Italian cinema from the silent film to the present. Italian cinema launched Italian fashion to the world. The book is the story of this launch. The creation of an Italian style and fashion as they are perceived today, especially by foreigners, was a product of the post World War II years. Before then, Parisian fashion had dominated Europe and the world. Just as fashion was part of Parisian and French national identity, the book explores the process of shaping and inventing an Italian style and fashion that ran parallel to, and at times took the lead in, the creation of an Italian national identity. In bringing to the fore these intersections, as well as emphasizing the importance of craft in cinema, fashion and costume design, the book aims to offer new visions of films by directors such as Nino Oxilia, Mario Camerini, Alessandro Blasetti, Federico Fellini, Michelangelo Antonioni, Luchino Visconti and Paolo Sorrentino, of film stars such as Lyda Borelli, Francesca Bertini, Pina Menichelli, Lucia Bosè, Monica Vitti, Marcello Mastroianni, Toni Servillo and others, and the costume archives and designers who have been central to the development of Made in Italy and Italian style.

The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 1

Christopher Breward,Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello
The Cambridge Global History of Fashion Volume 1 Book PDF

Author : Christopher Breward,Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 849 pages
File Size : 45,5 Mb
Release : 2023-07-31
Category : History
ISBN : 9781108851480

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The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 1 by Christopher Breward,Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello Pdf

Volume I surveys the long history of fashion from the ancient world to c. 1800. The volume seeks to answer fundamental questions on the origins of fashion, challenging Eurocentric explanations that the emergence of fashion was a European phenomenon and shows instead that fashion found early expressions across the globe well before the age of European colonialism and imperialism. It sheds light on how fashion was experienced in a multitude of ways depending on class, gender, and race, and despite geographical distance, fashion connected populations across the globe. Fashions flowered and were reseeded, through entanglements of empire, forced and voluntary migration, evolving racial systems, burgeoning sea travel and transcontinental systems.

Italian Fashion since 1945

Emanuela Scarpellini
Italian Fashion since 1945 Book PDF

Author : Emanuela Scarpellini
Publisher : Springer
Page : 265 pages
File Size : 44,5 Mb
Release : 2019-07-24
Category : History
ISBN : 9783030178123

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Italian Fashion since 1945 by Emanuela Scarpellini Pdf

In the course of the twentieth century, Italy succeeded in establishing itself as one of the world's preeminent fashion capitals, despite the centuries-old predominance of Paris and London. This book traces the story of how this came to be, guiding readers through the major cultural and economic revolutions of twentieth-century Italy and how they shaped the consumption practices and material lives of everyday Italians. In order to understand the specific character of the “Italian model,” Emanuela Scarpellini considers not only aspects of craftsmanship, industrial production and the evolution of styles, but also the economic and cultural changes that have radically transformed Italy and the international scene within a few decades: the post-war economic miracle, the youth revolution, the consumerism of the 1980s, globalization, the environmentalism of the 2000s and the Italy of today. Written in a lively style, full of references to cinema, literature, art and the world of media, this work offers the first comprehensive overview of a phenomenon that has profoundly shaped recent Italian history.

Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy

Catherine Kovesi
Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy Book PDF

Author : Catherine Kovesi
Publisher : Brepols Publishers
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 2018
Category : Consumption (Economics)
ISBN : 2503580114

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Luxury and the Ethics of Greed in Early Modern Italy by Catherine Kovesi Pdf

This book unravels the complex interaction of the paradigms of luxury and greed which lie at the origins of modern consumption practices. In the Western world, the phenomenon of luxury and the ethical dilemmas it raised appeared, for the first time since antiquity, in early modern Italy. Here, luxury emerged as a core idea in the conceptualization of consumption. Simultaneously, greed--which manifested in new and unrestrained consumption practices--came under close ethical scrutiny. As the buying power of new classes gained pace, these paradigms evolved as they continued both to influence, and be influenced by, other emerging global cultures through the early modern period. After defining luxury and greed in their historical contexts, the volume's chapters elucidate new consumptive goods, from chocolate to official robes of state; they examine how ideas about, and objects of, luxury and greed were disseminated through print, diplomacy, and gift-giving; and they reveal how even the most elite of consumers could fake their luxury objects. A group of international scholars from a range of disciplines thereby provide a new appraisal and vision of luxury and the ethics of greed in early modern Italy.

Writing Gender in Women's Letter Collections of the Italian Renaissance

Meredith K. Ray
Writing Gender in Women s Letter Collections of the Italian Renaissance Book PDF

Author : Meredith K. Ray
Publisher : University of Toronto Press
Page : 377 pages
File Size : 44,6 Mb
Release : 2009-01-01
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9780802097040

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Writing Gender in Women's Letter Collections of the Italian Renaissance by Meredith K. Ray Pdf

During the Italian Renaissance, dozens of early modern writers published collections of private correspondence, using them as vehicles for self-presentation, self-promotion, social critique, and religious dissent. Writing Gender in Women's Letter Collections of the Italian Renaissance examines the letter collections of women writers, arguing that these works were a studied performance of pervasive ideas about gender as well as genre, a form of self-fashioning that variously reflected, manipulated, and subverted cultural and literary conventions regarding femininity and masculinity. Meredith K. Ray presents letter collections from authors of diverse backgrounds, including a noblewoman, a courtesan, an actress, a nun, and a male writer who composed letters under female pseudonyms. Ray's study includes extensive new archival research and highlights a widespread interest in women's letter collections during the Italian Renaissance that suggests a deep curiosity about the female experience and a surprising openness to women's participation in this kind of literary production.

The First Book of Fashion

Ulinka Rublack,Maria Hayward,Jenny Tiramani
The First Book of Fashion Book PDF

Author : Ulinka Rublack,Maria Hayward,Jenny Tiramani
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 421 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2021-02-11
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781474249904

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The First Book of Fashion by Ulinka Rublack,Maria Hayward,Jenny Tiramani Pdf

This captivating book reproduces arguably the most extraordinary primary source documents in fashion history. Providing a revealing window onto the Renaissance, they chronicle how style-conscious accountant Matthäus Schwarz and his son Veit Konrad experienced life through clothes, and climbed the social ladder through fastidious management of self-image. These bourgeois dandies' agenda resonates as powerfully today as it did in the sixteenth century: one has to dress to impress, and dress to impress they did. The Schwarzes recorded their sartorial triumphs as well as failures in life in a series of portraits by illuminists over 60 years, which have been comprehensively reproduced in full color for the first time. These exquisite illustrations are accompanied by the Schwarzes' fashion-focussed yet at times deeply personal captions, which render the pair the world's first fashion bloggers and pioneers of everyday portraiture. The First Book of Fashion demonstrates how dress – seemingly both ephemeral and trivial – is a potent tool in the right hands. Beyond this, it colorfully recaptures the experience of Renaissance life and reveals the importance of clothing to the aesthetics and every day culture of the period. Historians Ulinka Rublack's and Maria Hayward's insightful commentaries create an unparalleled portrait of sixteenth-century dress that is both strikingly modern and thorough in its description of a true Renaissance fashionista's wardrobe. This first English translation also includes a bespoke pattern by TONY award-winning costume designer and dress historian Jenny Tiramani, from which readers can recreate one of Schwarz's most elaborate and politically significant outfits.

Fashion under Fascism

Eugenia Paulicelli
Fashion under Fascism Book PDF

Author : Eugenia Paulicelli
Publisher : Berg Publishers
Page : 240 pages
File Size : 44,7 Mb
Release : 2004-02-01
Category : History
ISBN : 1859737781

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Fashion under Fascism by Eugenia Paulicelli Pdf

When we think of Italian fashion, Gucci, Max Mara and the meteoric rise of Prada immediately spring to mind. But Italian fashion has a dark history that has not previously been explored. The Fascism of 1930s Italy dominated more than just politics - it spilled over into modes of dress. Fashion under Fascism is the first book to consider this link in detail.Fashion often functions as a tacit means of making a social statement, but under Mussolini it vividly reflected political tyranny. Ones allegiance to the regime was choreographed by the dictatorship with the intent of creating a new national consciousness. Women in particular were manipulated through fashion ideals to create an authentic Italian femininity. Paulicelli explores the subtle yet sinister changes to the seemingly innocuous practices of everyday dress and shows why they were such a concern for the state. Importantly, she also demonstrates how these developments impacted on the global dominance of Italian fashion today.This fascinating book includes interviews with major designers, such as Fernanda Gattinoni and Micol Fontana, and sheds new light on the complicated relationship between style and politics.

The Right to Dress

Giorgio Riello,Ulinka Rublack
The Right to Dress Book PDF

Author : Giorgio Riello,Ulinka Rublack
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 525 pages
File Size : 50,6 Mb
Release : 2019-01-17
Category : History
ISBN : 9781108475914

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The Right to Dress by Giorgio Riello,Ulinka Rublack Pdf

Presents a global history of dress regulation and debates around how human life and societies should be visualised and materialised.

Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe

Erin Griffey
Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe Book PDF

Author : Erin Griffey
Publisher : Amsterdam University Press
Page : 337 pages
File Size : 50,9 Mb
Release : 2019-07-05
Category : Art
ISBN : 9789048537242

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Sartorial Politics in Early Modern Europe by Erin Griffey Pdf

For women at the early modern courts, clothing and jewellery were essential elements in their political arsenal, enabling them to signal their dynastic value, to promote loyalty to their marital court and to advance political agendas. This is the first collection of essays to examine how elite women in early modern Europe marshalled clothing and jewellery for political ends. With essays encompassing women who traversed courts in Denmark, England, France, Germany, Habsburg Austria, Italy, Portugal, Spain and Sweden, the contributions cover a broad range of elite women from different courts and religious backgrounds as well as varying noble ranks.

Forbidden Knowledge

Hannah Marcus
Forbidden Knowledge Book PDF

Author : Hannah Marcus
Publisher : University of Chicago Press
Page : 369 pages
File Size : 48,8 Mb
Release : 2020-09-25
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780226736617

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Forbidden Knowledge by Hannah Marcus Pdf

“Wonderful . . . offers and provokes meditation on the timeless nature of censorship, its practices, its intentions and . . . its (unintended) outcomes.” —Times Higher Education Forbidden Knowledge explores the censorship of medical books from their proliferation in print through the prohibitions placed on them during the Counter-Reformation. How and why did books banned in Italy in the sixteenth century end up back on library shelves in the seventeenth? Historian Hannah Marcus uncovers how early modern physicians evaluated the utility of banned books and facilitated their continued circulation in conversation with Catholic authorities. Through extensive archival research, Marcus highlights how talk of scientific utility, once thought to have begun during the Scientific Revolution, in fact began earlier, emerging from ecclesiastical censorship and the desire to continue to use banned medical books. What’s more, this censorship in medicine, which preceded the Copernican debate in astronomy by sixty years, has had a lasting impact on how we talk about new and controversial developments in scientific knowledge. Beautiful illustrations accompany this masterful, timely book about the interplay between efforts at intellectual control and the utility of knowledge. “Marcus deftly explains the various contradictions that shaped the interactions between Catholic authorities and the medical and scientific communities of early modern Italy, showing how these dynamics defined the role of outside expertise in creating 'Catholic Knowledge' for centuries to come.” —Annals of Science “An important study that all scholars and advanced students of early modern Europe will want to read, especially those interested in early modern medicine, religion, and the history of the book. . . . Highly recommended.” —Choice

Fashion at the Time of Fascism

Mario Lupano,Alessandra Vaccari
Fashion at the Time of Fascism Book PDF

Author : Mario Lupano,Alessandra Vaccari
Publisher : Damiani Limited
Page : 408 pages
File Size : 47,6 Mb
Release : 2009
Category : Art
ISBN : UOM:39015084135154

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Fashion at the Time of Fascism by Mario Lupano,Alessandra Vaccari Pdf

"The first visual essay on fashion and modernism in fascist Italy, this book investigates the active role of fashion in the affirmation of a modern aesthetic, between processes of spreading international culture and the visions induced by the regime. The result of wide ranging research, Fashion at the Time of Fascism explores and compares a broad variety of Italian sources: women's magazines, fashion magazines, cinema and society life, exhibition and commercial catalogues, books, and magazines on dressmaking techniques, design and architecture, plus publications by businesses and government departments." "The book is a close-knit montage of images and texts that follow the rhythms and rituals of lifestyles in the modern Italian day, developed around four key concepts: Measurement, Model, Mark and Parade. From obsession with the exact measurement of bodies, garments and time to the creation of icons and models of modernity; from the construction of a national fashion system to the spectacular dimension of fashion shows and fascist rituals. An outline of the key figures and the fundamental steps of Italian fashion from the 1920s the early 1940s, the crucial themes of modernism and the relationship between glamour and the fascist regime's choreographies." "Fashion at the Time of Fascism includes a selection of texts by authors of the day and a wide variety of original critical contributors dealing with and contextualising the course of iconographic development." --Book Jacket.

The Renaissance of Letters

Paula Findlen,Suzanne Sutherland
The Renaissance of Letters Book PDF

Author : Paula Findlen,Suzanne Sutherland
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 324 pages
File Size : 46,6 Mb
Release : 2019-10-21
Category : Art
ISBN : 9780429770951

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The Renaissance of Letters by Paula Findlen,Suzanne Sutherland Pdf

The Renaissance of Letters traces the multiplication of letter-writing practices between the fourteenth and seventeenth centuries in the Italian peninsula and beyond to explore the importance of letters as a crucial document for understanding the Italian Renaissance. This edited collection contains case studies, ranging from the late medieval re-emergence of letter-writing to the mid-seventeenth century, that offer a comprehensive analysis of the different dimensions of late medieval and Renaissance letters—literary, commercial, political, religious, cultural, social, and military—which transformed them into powerful early modern tools. The Renaissance was an era that put letters into the hands of many kinds of people, inspiring them to see reading, writing, receiving, and sending letters as an essential feature of their identity. The authors take a fresh look at the correspondence of some of the most important humanists of the Italian Renaissance, including Niccolò Machiavelli and Isabella d'Este, and consider the use of letters for others such as merchants and physicians. This book is essential reading for scholars and students of Early Modern History and Literature, Renaissance Studies, and Italian Studies. The engagement with essential primary sources renders this book an indispensable tool for those teaching seminars on Renaissance history and literature.