You Re Never Too Old To Surf

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Kook

Author : Peter Heller
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 336 pages
File Size : 43,5 Mb
Release : 2010-07-13
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781439171813

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Kook by Peter Heller Pdf

With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The River and The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Author of the New York Times bestselling novel The Dog Stars Winner of the National Outdoor Book Award for Literature Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave—that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.

Old Age and Agency

Author : Emmanuelle Tulle
Publisher : Nova Publishers
Page : 218 pages
File Size : 40,7 Mb
Release : 2004
Category : Political Science
ISBN : 1590338847

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Old Age and Agency by Emmanuelle Tulle Pdf

This book is about rethinking the ways in which we make sense of social action or agency in later life. The contributions in this collection challenge traditional academic approaches to the study of later life, which, arguably, often deny older people agency. Social gerontology, and the wider society, should be more reflexive and rather than contribute to the continued marginalisation of older people, should draw attention to the extent to which the latter's actions may be understood within the set of normalising discourses which people have to manage and negotiate as they get old. The purpose of this collection is to continue this process, by providing philosophical, theoretical, conceptual and empirical direction for a reflexive social gerontology. This book argues that the management of later life has become complex, caught as it is within a broad discourse which continues to construct old age as a time of decline and dependency but has shifted the burden of responsibility for the avoidance of decline on individuals.

Mindful Thoughts for Surfers

Author : Sam Bleakley
Publisher : Leaping Hare Press
Page : 163 pages
File Size : 48,7 Mb
Release : 2020-03-10
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781782408956

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Mindful Thoughts for Surfers by Sam Bleakley Pdf

Mindful Thoughts for Surfers explores how meditative a life on the surfboard can be. These 25 insightful musings will inspire beginners and experts alike. The immediacy of the surfer's surroundings and the interaction with the vast ocean and all of its wonderful wildlife creates the perfect opportunity to practise mindfulness. Sam Bleakley is an international longboard surfing champion and advocate for all forms of waveriding. With an interest in Buddhism and Taoism, he discusses such subjects as: Decluttering thoughts and identification Embracing imperfection The metaphors and parallels of the water with our lives The spiritual connection to nature Recovering from injury Heightened senses and the connection between body and mind Blue mindfulness, flow and resilience Through these subjects he explores how riding the waves is the ultimate meditation and offers an astute awareness of what the oceans tell us about our place in the natural world—if we would just listen. His illuminating meditations, each beautifully illustrated, make this book perfect for dipping into and offer a gentle gateway into life-affirming awareness for everyone. If you like this you might also be interested in Mindfulness and Surfing . . .

Barbarian Days

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 384 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2015-07-21
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780698163744

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Barbarian Days by William Finnegan Pdf

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Another Shot

Author : Joe Kita
Publisher : Joseph Kita
Page : 257 pages
File Size : 46,9 Mb
Release : 2001-05-08
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 8210379456XXX

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Another Shot by Joe Kita Pdf

Joe Kita has had a good life. He has been happily married for more than 15 years and has two beautiful children. He is a successful journalist. He has lots of friends. Still, at 40, he wonders about missed opportunities: What would have happened if he had asked out that coed? What if he had learned to surf? What if he'd been nicer to his dog? Afraid of having the same pangs of regret at age 80 and no longer satisfied with leaving good times to chance. Kita deliberately revisits 20 crossroads in his life and tries to relive them. In Another Shot, he chronicles his crazy year with humor and inspiration. Along the way, he gets to the bottom of what happened to his first car—a beautiful 1979 Camaro—and ponders whether choices really matter and what determines one's place in the world. Some of Kita's adventures border on the absurd: A lifelong skinny boy, Kita yearns to have six-pack abs, and he's willing to perform almost any exercise to get them. Having never won a large stuffed animal, he heads to a carnival with a wad of bills in hand, determined to leave triumphant. Other stops on his journey are more common to men his age: He's lost his hair and he wants it back. His sexual peak came and went without him. He's never truly tested his manhood. More than anything, though, it's his relationships with other people that have affected Kita—and these are the chapters of his life that he is most eager to edit. His relationship with his mother has never been great. His father died before he could say goodbye. His harried work schedule has caused him to miss out on time with his kids. His quest to find God has been unfulfilling. Regardless of the original regret and its final "outcome," each experience alters Kita's perspective and will alter yours, too. A poetic narrative organized by specific regrets, Another Shot provides an insightful glimpse into the life and mind of a regular guy. It's a tumultuous and sometimes uncomfortable journey. But Kita is hilarious, insightful, and—most of all—inspiring enough to make you ponder: Why not give it another shot?

Hard Tide

Author : Elise Noble
Publisher : Undercover Publishing Limited
Page : 524 pages
File Size : 54,9 Mb
Release : 2022-12-31
Category : Fiction
ISBN : 9781912888603

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Hard Tide by Elise Noble Pdf

Private investigator Ari Danner is out of money and out of luck in Las Vegas when she’s offered the biggest contract of her life. The first problem? The job is in California. The second problem? She’ll have to go undercover as a beach babe and she can’t even swim. But the money is too good to pass up, and she’ll do anything to secure her daughter’s future, even cosy up to pro surfer Zach Torres as she gathers evidence of his role in a sports betting scam. Zach doesn’t usually pick up women by giving them CPR on his surfboard, but right from the start, he knew Ari was different. Smart, easy to talk to, interested in more than his billboard-worthy abs. But secrets can tear love apart, and Zach soon finds that there’s more than his relationship at risk. Hard Tide is a standalone romantic suspense novel in the Blackstone House series. Keywords: Private investigator, sports, humor, celebrity, hidden identity, single mom, strong woman, romantic suspense, mystery, forced proximity, undercover, beach

Rockaway

Author : Diane Cardwell
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin
Page : 275 pages
File Size : 51,5 Mb
Release : 2020
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780358067788

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Rockaway by Diane Cardwell Pdf

The inspirational story of one woman learning to surf and creating a new life in gritty, eccentric Rockaway Beach Unmoored by a failed marriage and disconnected from her high-octane life in the city, Diane Cardwell finds herself staring at a small group of surfers coasting through mellow waves toward shore--and senses something shift. Rockawayis the riveting, joyful story of one woman's reinvention--beginning with Cardwell taking the A Train to Rockaway, a neglected spit of land dangling off New York City into the Atlantic Ocean. She finds a teacher, buys a tiny bungalow, and throws her not-overly-athletic self headlong into learning the inner workings and rhythms of waves and the muscle development and coordination needed to ride them. As Cardwell begins to find her balance in the water and out, superstorm Sandy hits, sending her into the maelstrom in search of safer ground. In the aftermath, the community comes together and rebuilds, rekindling its bacchanalian spirit as a historic surfing community, one with its own quirky codes and surf culture. And Cardwell's surfing takes off as she finds a true home among her fellow passionate longboarders at the Rockaway Beach Surf Club, living out "the most joyful path through life." Rockawayis a stirring story of inner salvation sought through a challenging physical pursuit--and of learning to accept the idea of a complete reset, no matter when in life it comes.

You're Never Too Old To Surf

Author : Vicki Lynn Sauter
Publisher : Createspace Independent Publishing Platform
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 53,7 Mb
Release : 2015-01-08
Category : Computers and older people
ISBN : 1506163858

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You're Never Too Old To Surf by Vicki Lynn Sauter Pdf

This book is for the reader who has ever wanted to "harness the power of the Internet," but was not quite sure what that means, or how to do it. It is written for the person who simply does not have the background to use Internet tools comfortably, and has never found the resources to help them. If you have sought guidance from your child or grandchild only to be annoyed at their exasperated response to your Internet questions, this book is for you. Or, if you have tried using the Internet on your own and gotten frustrated with the tools, or encountered problems (or know someone who did), this book is for you. Or, if you are using the Internet, but do not feel very confident in what you are doing, this book is for you. Of course, if you are the child or grandchild who is having trouble explaining things to your parent or grandparent, this book could help you too. This book provides illustrated, step-by-step guidance to use the Internet without jargon you normally encounter. It is an easy-to-read book that not only tells you how to accomplish your goal, but also how to avoid bad things that might happen along the way. There are chapters on surfing the web, purchasing online, navigating special web pages, using email, and using social networking tools, such as blogs, Facebook, LinkedIn and Twitter. For example, when explaining the Internet, it includes a discussion of how web pages work, who creates them (and why), how to use search engines, and when to use bookmarks. It even includes a list of web pages that might be of interest to readers, and a discussion of the mechanics of surfing. Another chapter covers navigating website, including how to purchase online, and how to navigate special pages, such as eBay, StumbleUpon, iTunes, photo sites and Wikipedia. The following chapter covers email including how to create and answer email, email etiquette, guidelines for meeting the challenge of too much email, and smart email use to avoid spam, scams, viruses and phishing. This is followed by a chapter on blogging and social networking, which not only helps you set up a blog, or a Facebook, Twitter or LinkedIn account, but also how to use those tools to meet your own personal needs. Although the problems with the Internet (and how to avoid them) is discussed throughout, the book ends with a chapter on how to use the Internet safely and how specific practices make it possible. Finally, the book is supplemented by a helpful blog to help keep users up to date on Internet use, and to provide a forum for questions. It can be accessed at https: //internetuseforseniors.wordpress.com.

Wave Woman

Author : Vicky Heldreich Durand
Publisher : SparkPress
Page : 237 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 2020-04-07
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781684630431

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Wave Woman by Vicky Heldreich Durand Pdf

Wave Woman is the untold story of an adventurer whose zest for life and learning kept her alive for ninety-eight years. Betty Pembroke Heldreich Winstedt was the granddaughter of Mormon pioneers who, after spending an active and athletic childhood in Salt Lake City, moved to Santa Monica with her family and enrolled at USC to study dental hygiene. Betty went on to elope with a man she hardly knew, and to have two daughters. In middle age, Betty finally followed her dream of living near the ocean; she moved to Hawaii and, at age forty-one, took up surfing. She lived and surfed at Waikiki during the golden years of the mid-1950s and was a pioneer surfer at Makaha Beach. She was competitive in early big-wave surfing championships and was among the first women to compete in Lima, Peru, where she won first place. Betty was an Olympic hopeful, a pilot, a mother, a sculptor, a jeweler, a builder, a fisherwoman, an ATV rider, and a potter who lived life her way, dealing with adversity and heartache on her own stoic terms. A love letter from a daughter to her larger-than-life mother, Wave Woman will speak to any woman searching for self-confidence, fulfillment, and happiness.

You’Re Never Too Old to Have a Happy Childhood

Author : Gina C. Moss
Publisher : AuthorHouse
Page : 310 pages
File Size : 50,5 Mb
Release : 2012-11-29
Category : Body, Mind & Spirit
ISBN : 9781477233160

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You’Re Never Too Old to Have a Happy Childhood by Gina C. Moss Pdf

Karen Griffith is a smart, independent, creative, passionate, forty seven year old, mountain-climbing grandma. Her business card reads Transformational Technician: Give me a week - Ill give you your life. Her new client, actor/director Sam Hudson, is in crisis and unable to continue working. The novel deals with genuine life-changing issues interspersed with quick-witted dialogue, physical comedy and vivid images of Southern Californias coastline. After several disastrous false starts, Sam and Karen come to acknowledge their true feelings for each other. A midnight escapade on Sams yacht proves the title of the book to be true.

Beautiful America's San Diego

Author : Andrea Naversen,Kenneth Naversen
Publisher : Beautiful America Publishing Co.
Page : 94 pages
File Size : 49,8 Mb
Release : 2001-04
Category : San Diego (Calif.)
ISBN : 9780898027419

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Beautiful America's San Diego by Andrea Naversen,Kenneth Naversen Pdf

California's gem on the Pacific is captured to perfection in this exciting, all new book on San Diego. Former television news anchor, Andrea Naversen collaborates with brother, photographer Ken, to give readers one of the most enjoyable, informative visits to this top tourist attraction ever. From Rancho Sante Fe to the renowned San Diego Zoo, this is a publication you don't want to miss.

Under the Wave at Waimea

Author : Paul Theroux
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin
Page : 421 pages
File Size : 52,7 Mb
Release : 2021
Category : Fiction
ISBN : 9780358446286

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Under the Wave at Waimea by Paul Theroux Pdf

From legendary writer Paul Theroux comes an atmospheric novel following a big-wave surfer as he confronts aging, privilege, mortality, and whose lives we choose to remember.

Never Too Old Too Surf

Author : Surfers Publishing
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 122 pages
File Size : 41,8 Mb
Release : 2019-09-26
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 1695783735

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Never Too Old Too Surf by Surfers Publishing Pdf

Still looking for a cool gift for your wave riding Surfer friend This notebook has enough room for all your surfing adventures and secrets from the beach. On 120 ruled pages you can write down all your summer stories and memories. It comes with a cool Surfer style cover. Perfect for birthday, christmas or any other present giving occassion. A nice gift idea for all that love smoking weed. 120 pages ruled 6 x 9 soft matte cover cream white paper

Women on Waves

Author : Jim Kempton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 304 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 2021-07-06
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781643137254

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Women on Waves by Jim Kempton Pdf

A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Second Chance Hex

Author : Kym Grosso
Publisher : MT Carvin Publishing, LLC
Page : 36 pages
File Size : 48,9 Mb
Release : 2024-01-16
Category : Fiction
ISBN : 8210379456XXX

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Second Chance Hex by Kym Grosso Pdf

An enchanting short story from NYT & USA Today best-selling author Kym Grosso. Rediscover the magic of love in ‘Second Chance Hex’…The Witches of Willistown. When Dr. Zari Williams returns to her hometown, she’s forced to confront the magic she’s long denied. It had been years since she’d seen the love of her life, but she soon discovers she can’t fight destiny. Sparks fly when she runs into her old flame, and her magic flourishes as her attraction to him defies logic. Quinn McKenna has never forgotten about his first love. Determined not to pass up a second chance with his beautiful witch, the charismatic contractor hopes to win her heart. As love and magic collide in the enchanting beach village of Willistown, will Zari and Quinn find their way back to each other after years of being apart? Their love had once been magical, but can they conjure a happily ever after? Second chances. Falling in love. Heartwarming romance in the whimsical town of Willistown abounds. MORE READS BY KYM GROSSO THE IMMORTALS OF NEW ORLEANS: Kade's Dark Embrace Luca's Magic Embrace Tristan's Lyceum Wolves Logan’s Acadian Wolves Léopold’s Wicked Embrace Dimitri Lost Embrace Jax Jake Quintus Hunter Christmas Embrace Viktor Julian CLUB ALTURA ROMANCE: Carnal Risk Wicked Rush Riptide Solstice Burn Hard Asset WITCHES OF WILLISTOWN: Second Chance Hex