All For A Few Perfect Waves

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All for a Few Perfect Waves

David Rensin
All for a Few Perfect Waves Book PDF

Author : David Rensin
Publisher : Harper Collins
Page : 826 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 2009-03-17
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780061868160

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All for a Few Perfect Waves by David Rensin Pdf

For twenty years, Miki "Da Cat" Dora was the king of Malibu surfers—a dashing, enigmatic rebel who dominated the waves, ruled his peers' imaginations, and who still inspires the fantasies of wannabes to this day. And yet, Dora railed against surfing's sudden post-Gidget popularity and the overcrowding of his once empty waves, even after this avid sportsman, iconoclast, and scammer of wide repute ran afoul of the law and led the FBI on a remarkable seven-year chase around the globe in 1974. The New York Times named him "the most renegade spirit the sport has yet to produce" and Vanity Fair called him "a dark prince of the beach." To fully capture Dora's never-before-told story, David Rensin spent four years interviewing hundreds of Dora's friends, enemies, family members, lovers, and fellow surfers to uncover the untold truth about surfing's most outrageous practitioner, charismatic antihero, committed loner, and enduring mystery.

Barbarian Days

William Finnegan
Barbarian Days Book PDF

Author : William Finnegan
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 384 pages
File Size : 48,9 Mb
Release : 2015-07-21
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780698163744

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Barbarian Days by William Finnegan Pdf

**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography** Included in President Obama’s 2016 Summer Reading List “Without a doubt, the finest surf book I’ve ever read . . . ” —The New York Times Magazine Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships forged in challenging waves. Finnegan shares stories of life in a whites-only gang in a tough school in Honolulu. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he discovers the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissects the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, and navigates the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity. Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little-understood art.

Dora Lives

Craig Stecyk
Dora Lives Book PDF

Author : Craig Stecyk
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 144 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : Surfers
ISBN : STANFORD:36105127125537

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Dora Lives by Craig Stecyk Pdf

Biography of the legendary Miki Dora, who learned to surf from his step father, Gard Chapin, at San Onofre Beach in Orange County, California.

Surf Diva

Izzy Tihanyi,Coco Tihanyi
Surf Diva Book PDF

Author : Izzy Tihanyi,Coco Tihanyi
Publisher : Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Page : 260 pages
File Size : 55,8 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0156029863

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Surf Diva by Izzy Tihanyi,Coco Tihanyi Pdf

The founders of a surf school for women provide both a practical how-to guide to the sport of surfing and a witty look at the surfing lifestyle, integrating advice from professional surfers and tips on how to stay safe while having fun.

Swell

Evan Slater
Swell Book PDF

Author : Evan Slater
Publisher : Chronicle Books
Page : 148 pages
File Size : 47,6 Mb
Release : 2012-05-09
Category : Photography
ISBN : 9781452105932

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Swell by Evan Slater Pdf

Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.

Mop Rides the Waves of Life

Jaimal Yogis
Mop Rides the Waves of Life Book PDF

Author : Jaimal Yogis
Publisher : Parallax Press
Page : 40 pages
File Size : 50,8 Mb
Release : 2020-06-30
Category : Juvenile Fiction
ISBN : 9781946764614

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Mop Rides the Waves of Life by Jaimal Yogis Pdf

If only life could be like surfing! Having "funny" hair and being embarrassed in school is hard, but when little surfer Mop studies the lessons of the waves—breathing, letting the bad waves go by, and riding the good ones—he learns how to bring the mindfulness and joy of surfing into his whole life. Celebrated San Francisco surfer-journalist-dad Jaimal Yogis teaches 4-8 year olds timeless beach wisdom with the story of Mop, a sensitive and fun-loving kid who just wants to be in the ocean. Going to school and navigating classmates can be hard—but all that goes away when little surfer Mop paddles out in the waves. With a few tips from his clever mom, Mop studies the wisdom of the water and learns to bring it into his life on land: taking deep breaths, letting the tough waves pass, and riding the good ones all the way. With newfound awareness and courage, Mop heads back to land—and school—to surf the waves of life. With stylish full-color beachy illustrations from cover to cover.

AFROSURF

Mami Wata
AFROSURF Book PDF

Author : Mami Wata
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 40,8 Mb
Release : 2021-06-15
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781984860415

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AFROSURF by Mami Wata Pdf

Discover the untold story of African surf culture in this glorious and colorful collection of profiles, essays, photographs, and illustrations. AFROSURF is the first book to capture and celebrate the surfing culture of Africa. This unprecedented collection is compiled by Mami Wata, a Cape Town surf company that fiercely believes in the power of African surf. Mami Wata brings together its co-founder Selema Masekela and some of Africa's finest photographers, thinkers, writers, and surfers to explore the unique culture of eighteen coastal countries, from Morocco to Somalia, Mozambique, South Africa, and beyond. Packed with over fifty essays, AFROSURF features surfer and skater profiles, thought pieces, poems, photos, illustrations, ephemera, recipes, and a mini comic, all wrapped in an astounding design that captures the diversity and character of Africa. A creative force of good in their continent, Mami Wata sources and manufactures all their wares in Africa and works with communities to strengthen local economies through surf tourism. With this mission in mind, Mami Wata is donating 100% of their proceeds to support two African surf therapy organizations, Waves for Change and Surfers Not Street Children.

The Wave

Susan Casey
The Wave Book PDF

Author : Susan Casey
Publisher : Anchor Canada
Page : 434 pages
File Size : 44,9 Mb
Release : 2011-05-31
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780385666688

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The Wave by Susan Casey Pdf

A riveting and rollicking tour-de-force about the terrifying power of nature's most deadly phenomena — colossal waves — and the scientists and super surfers who are obsessed with them. The New York Times bestselling author of The Devil's Teeth probes the dramatic convergence of baffling gargantuan waves that pummel oil rigs and sink massive ships, the extreme surfers willing to stare down death in order to ride them, and the marine scientists trying to unlock the physics of these waves, the climate changes that are provoking them, and what chaos they might wreak. Susan Casey explores the phenomenon of monster waves and how they have become an obsession for extreme surfers like Laird Hamilton — who serves as the author's guide as she takes the reader into the intense, white-knuckle world of 100-foot waves.

The World in the Curl

Peter J. Westwick,Peter Neushul
The World in the Curl Book PDF

Author : Peter J. Westwick,Peter Neushul
Publisher : Crown
Page : 418 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2013-07-23
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9780307719485

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The World in the Curl by Peter J. Westwick,Peter Neushul Pdf

Draws on decades of experience and the popular team-taught courses at the University of California at Santa Barbara to trace the cultural, political, economic and environmental aspects of surfing while evaluating the diverse range of influences that have rendered the sport a billion-dollar worldwide industry.

Let My People Go Surfing

Yvon Chouinard
Let My People Go Surfing Book PDF

Author : Yvon Chouinard
Publisher : Penguin
Page : 284 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2006-09-05
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781101201220

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Let My People Go Surfing by Yvon Chouinard Pdf

Yvon Chouinard-legendary climber, businessman, environmentalist, and founder of Patagonia, Inc.-shares the persistence and courage that have gone into being head of one of the most respected and environmentally responsible companies on earth. From his youth as the son of a French Canadian blacksmith to the thrilling, ambitious climbing expeditions that inspired his innovative designs for the sport's equipment, Let My People Go Surfing is the story of a man who brought doing good and having grand adventures into the heart of his business life-a book that will deeply affect entrepreneurs and outdoor enthusiasts alike. A newly revised edition of Let My People Go Surfing is available now. From the Trade Paperback edition.

Nothing to See Here

Kevin Wilson
Nothing to See Here Book PDF

Author : Kevin Wilson
Publisher : HarperCollins
Page : 288 pages
File Size : 49,8 Mb
Release : 2019-10-29
Category : Fiction
ISBN : 9780062913487

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Nothing to See Here by Kevin Wilson Pdf

A New York Times Bestseller • A Read with Jenna Today Show Book Club Pick! Named a Best Book of the Year by The New York Times Book Review, The Washington Post, People, Entertainment Weekly, USA Today, TIME, The A.V. Club, Buzzfeed, and PopSugar “I can’t believe how good this book is.... It’s wholly original. It’s also perfect.... Wilson writes with such a light touch.... The brilliance of the novel [is] that it distracts you with these weirdo characters and mesmerizing and funny sentences and then hits you in a way you didn’t see coming. You’re laughing so hard you don’t even realize that you’ve suddenly caught fire.” —Taffy Brodesser-Akner, author of Fleishman is in Trouble, New York Times Book Review From the New York Times bestselling author of The Family Fang, a moving and uproarious novel about a woman who finds meaning in her life when she begins caring for two children with a remarkable ability. Lillian and Madison were unlikely roommates and yet inseparable friends at their elite boarding school. But then Lillian had to leave the school unexpectedly in the wake of a scandal and they’ve barely spoken since. Until now, when Lillian gets a letter from Madison pleading for her help. Madison’s twin stepkids are moving in with her family and she wants Lillian to be their caretaker. However, there’s a catch: the twins spontaneously combust when they get agitated, flames igniting from their skin in a startling but beautiful way. Lillian is convinced Madison is pulling her leg, but it’s the truth. Thinking of her dead-end life at home, the life that has consistently disappointed her, Lillian figures she has nothing to lose. Over the course of one humid, demanding summer, Lillian and the twins learn to trust each other—and stay cool—while also staying out of the way of Madison’s buttoned-up politician husband. Surprised by her own ingenuity yet unused to the intense feelings of protectiveness she feels for them, Lillian ultimately begins to accept that she needs these strange children as much as they need her—urgently and fiercely. Couldn’t this be the start of the amazing life she’d always hoped for? With white-hot wit and a big, tender heart, Kevin Wilson has written his best book yet—a most unusual story of parental love.

Women on Waves

Jim Kempton
Women on Waves Book PDF

Author : Jim Kempton
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 304 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2021-07-06
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 9781643137254

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Women on Waves by Jim Kempton Pdf

A captivating look at two centuries of surfing—"the Sport of Queens"—from Native Hawaiian royalty to the breakout style and jaw-dropping feats on the waves today. Few subjects in the world of sports and or the outdoors is more timely or compelling than women’s surfing. From smart, strong, fearless women shattering records on 80-foot waves to professional athletes fighting for equal pay and a more fair and just playing field, these amazing, wave-riding warriors provide an inspirational and aspirational cast of powerful role models for women (and men) across all backgrounds and generations. Over the past two-hundred years, and especially the past five decades, the surfing lifestyle have become the envy of people around the world. The perception of sun, sand, surf, strong young women and their inimitable style, has created a booming lifestyle and sports industry—and the sport that is set to make it’s Olympic exhibition debut in Tokyo 2021. A massive shift from when colonizers tried to extinguish all traces of Native Hawaiian surfing and its sacred culture. What is it about the surfing that intrigues people of all ages, from all corners of the world? The beaches and idyllic locations? The unique style and mystique that surfers project? These women, on the beach and riding giant waves, or in the media, have made their mark on not just their sport, but our wider culture. Women on Waves is filled with phenomenal athletic performance, breakthrough female achievements, and plenty of inspiration and fun to see us through until the time when we can all hit the surf once more! Spanning a millennia, From Hawaii to Malibu, New York to Australia, South Africa to the South Pacific and beyond, Jim Kempton presents a fascinating new narrative that will captivate anyone who loves sports and the outdoors.

Incredible Waves

Chris Power
Incredible Waves Book PDF

Author : Chris Power
Publisher : Orca Publications
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2013-12-10
Category : Sports & Recreation
ISBN : 0956789331

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Incredible Waves by Chris Power Pdf

Incredible Waves has just won Illustrated Book of the Year at The British Sports Book Awards! Beautiful, unique, kaleidoscopic, geometrically exquisite...perfect waves are some of Mother Nature's most alluring and mesmerizing creations. Incredible Waves is a stunning coffee-table book of photographs that capture the beauty and majesty of the world's most awesome waves. This breathtaking volume is a collection of the best recent work by 20 top surf photographers including Clark Little, Brian Bielmann, Chris Burkard, Russell Ord, DJ Struntz, Tungsten, Jeff Flindt, Ray Collins and Andrew Shield. Among the most spectacular shots are images of big-wave breaks such as Pipeline, Cloudbreak, The Right, Teahupoo and Jaws – waves which are as dangerous as they are enticing, for photographers as well as surfers.The stories behind the most dramatic shots are revealed in the accompanying text, along with essays and discussions about current trends in surf photography.Readers interested in improving their own photographic skills will benefit from the technique sections throughout the book which offer tips and advice for getting better shots. Everything from basic composition to underwater photography is covered, along with tips for getting the best from board-mounted miniature cameras such as the GoPro.The photos in Incredible Waves are guaranteed to thrill surfers, longboarders, kite surfers and bodyboarders alike...in fact everyone who loves looking at images of the ocean at its most spectacular.

All Our Waves Are Water

Jaimal Yogis
All Our Waves Are Water Book PDF

Author : Jaimal Yogis
Publisher : HarperCollins
Page : 202 pages
File Size : 53,5 Mb
Release : 2017-07-04
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780062405203

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All Our Waves Are Water by Jaimal Yogis Pdf

In this meditative memoir—a compelling fusion of Barbarian Days and the journals of Thomas Merton—the author of Saltwater Buddha reflects on his "failing toward enlightenment," his continued search to find meaning and a greater understanding of grace in the world’s oceans as well as everyday life. Born to a family of seekers, Jaimal Yogis left home at sixteen to surf in Hawaii and join a monastery—an adventure he chronicled in Saltwater Buddha. Now, in his early twenties, his heart is broken and he’s lost his way. Hitting the road again, he lands in a monastery in Dharamsala, where he meets Sonam, a displaced Tibetan. To help his friend, Jaimal makes a cockamamie attempt to reunite him with his family in Tibet by way of America. Though he does not succeed, witnessing Sonam’s spirit in the face of failure offers Jaimal a deeper understanding of faith. When the two friends part, he cannot fathom the unlikely circumstances that will reunite them. All Our Waves Are Water follows Jaimal’s trek from the Himalayas to Indonesia; to a Franciscan Friary in New York City to the dusty streets of Jerusalem; and finally to San Francisco’s Ocean Beach. Along his journey, Jaimal prays and surfs; mourning a lost love and seeking something that keeps eluding him. The poet Rumi wrote, "We are not a drop in the ocean. We are the ocean in a drop." All Our Waves Are Water is Jaimal’s "attempt to understand the ocean in a drop, to find that one moon shining in the water everywhere"—to find the mystery that unites us.

Where Did I Go Right?

Bernie Brillstein
Where Did I Go Right Book PDF

Author : Bernie Brillstein
Publisher : Phoenix Books
Page : 458 pages
File Size : 46,7 Mb
Release : 2008-01-01
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781614670780

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Where Did I Go Right? by Bernie Brillstein Pdf

Beginning in the William Morris mail room in 1955, Bernie Brillstein wanted only three things: “to walk into a restaurant and have people know who I am…to be the guy who gets the phone calls and doesn’t have to make them…to represent the one performer people must have.” Throughout his long career at the top of the entertainment industry––as TV and movie producer, agent and brilliant personal manager––Brillstein has accomplished it all. Where Did I Go Right? is Brillstein’s street-smart, funny, and thoroughly human story of a life in show business. With his trademark wit and candor, he speaks out for the first time about his feud with Mike Ovitz, and how it felt to pass the leadership of his company to his partner, Brad Grey, and “no longer be the king.” He describes his close relationship with John Belushi and what it was like being alone with Belushi’s body as it lay “stretched out across two cramped seats in a tiny jet, wrapped up in a body bag” on the way to his funeral. He shares stories about Jim Hensen and Gilda Radner, about Lorne Michaels and the early days of Saturday Night Live. He takes us behind the scenes at such hits as The Blues Brothers, Ghostbusters, and The Muppet Show. Brillstein also reveals his secrets about how to survive and prosper in Hollywood, the real meaning of “the art of the deal,” the difference between “hot” and “good,” and why instinct is so crucial to the future of the entertainment industry. “Becoming successful is the most fun of all. I’m not talking about being successful or staying successful. I mean the getting there, the instant you arrive, and for the first time you think, ‘Where did I go right?’” After eight years, Phoenix Books is re-releasing this bestseller, with an updated epilogue from Bernie Brillstein entitled, “Still going right.”