Artist Rebel Dandy

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Artist, Rebel, Dandy

Kate Irvin,Laurie Anne Brewer,Rhode Island School of Design. Museum of Art
Artist Rebel Dandy Book PDF

Author : Kate Irvin,Laurie Anne Brewer,Rhode Island School of Design. Museum of Art
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 53,8 Mb
Release : 2013
Category : Costume design
ISBN : 0300190816

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Artist, Rebel, Dandy by Kate Irvin,Laurie Anne Brewer,Rhode Island School of Design. Museum of Art Pdf

A wide-ranging exploration of the dandy and men's fashion over the past two centuries, from Beau Brummell to hip-hop Artist/Rebel/Dandy celebrates the pleasures of the sharp-dressed man, from the discreet sophistication of the consummately elegant George Bryan "Beau" Brummell in the early 19th century to the diverse, highly personal flair of the tastemakers who color the landscape of menswear today. Since the word "dandy" came into vogue in London in 1813, it has at times been used to describe someone superficial, flamboyant, and self-indulgent. Instead, the dandy is here shown to employ profound thought and imagination in his self-presentation, fashioning an image that often challenges the status quo and transcends the ordinary. A series of fascinating essays traces the often contradictory definitions and images of the dandy, the history of young men and their clothes in the long 19th century, the exquisite fabrics and tailoring that play an important role in dandy style, and the relationship of black dandyism and hip-hop. In addition, this book features fifteen musings on notable dandies written by individuals who share a kinship with their subject, including Patti Smith considering Charles Baudelaire; a reflection on Oscar Wilde by his grandson, Merlin Holland; Daniela Morera, formerly part of Andy Warhol's Factory crowd, reminiscing about the artist's image; and writer Philip Hoare describing the "thrift-shop dandyism" of director John Waters. Published in association with the Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design Exhibition Schedule: Museum of Art, Rhode Island School of Design 04/26/13-08/18/13

Dandies

Susan Fillin-Yeh
Dandies Book PDF

Author : Susan Fillin-Yeh
Publisher : NYU Press
Page : 303 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2001-03
Category : Art
ISBN : 9780814726969

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Dandies by Susan Fillin-Yeh Pdf

Dandies: Fashion and Finesse in Art and Culture considers the visual languages, politics, and poetics of personal appearance. Dandyism has been most closely associated with influential caucasian Western men-about-town, epitomized by the 19th century style-setting of Oscar Wilde and by Tom Wolfe's white suits. The essays collected here, however, examine the spectacle and workings of dandyism to reveal that these were not the only dandies. On the contrary, art historians, literary and cultural historians, and anthropologists identify unrecognized dandies flourishing among early 19th century Native Americans, in Soviet Latvia, in Africa, throughout the African-American diaspora, among women, and in the art world. Moving beyond historical and fictional accounts of dandies, this volume juxtaposes theoretical models with evocative images and descriptions of clothing in order to link sartorial self-construction with artistic, social, and political self-invention. Taking into consideration the vast changes in thinking about identity in the academy, Dandies provides a compelling study of dandyism's destabilizing aesthetic enterprise. Contributors: Jennifer Blessing, Susan Fillin-Yeh, Rhonda Garelick, Joe Lucchesi, Kim Miller, Robert E. Moore, Richard J. Powell, Carter Ratcliffe, and Mark Allen Svede.

The Oxford Handbook of History and Material Culture

Ivan Gaskell,Sarah Anne Carter
The Oxford Handbook of History and Material Culture Book PDF

Author : Ivan Gaskell,Sarah Anne Carter
Publisher : Oxford University Press
Page : 696 pages
File Size : 40,9 Mb
Release : 2020-04-07
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9780197500125

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The Oxford Handbook of History and Material Culture by Ivan Gaskell,Sarah Anne Carter Pdf

Most historians rely principally on written sources. Yet there are other traces of the past available to historians: the material things that people have chosen, made, and used. This book examines how material culture can enhance historians' understanding of the past, both worldwide and across time. The successful use of material culture in history depends on treating material things of many kinds not as illustrations, but as primary evidence. Each kind of material thing-and there are many-requires the application of interpretive skills appropriate to it. These skills overlap with those acquired by scholars in disciplines that may abut history but are often relatively unfamiliar to historians, including anthropology, archaeology, and art history. Creative historians can adapt and apply the same skills they honed while studying more traditional text-based documents even as they borrow methods from these fields. They can think through familiar historical problems in new ways. They can also deploy material culture to discover the pasts of constituencies who have left few or no traces in written records. The authors of this volume contribute case studies arranged thematically in six sections that respectively address the relationship of history and material culture to cognition, technology, the symbolic, social distinction, and memory. They range across time and space, from Paleolithic to Punk.

Prince and Popular Music

Mike Alleyne,Kirsty Fairclough
Prince and Popular Music Book PDF

Author : Mike Alleyne,Kirsty Fairclough
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing USA
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 43,9 Mb
Release : 2020-05-14
Category : Music
ISBN : 9781501354687

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Prince and Popular Music by Mike Alleyne,Kirsty Fairclough Pdf

Prince's position in popular culture has undergone only limited academic scrutiny. This book provides an academic examination of Prince, encompassing the many layers of his cultural and creative impact. It assesses Prince's life and legacy holistically, exploring his multiple identities and the ways in which they were manifested through his recorded catalogue and audiovisual personae. In 17 essays organized thematically, the anthology includes a diverse range of contributions - taking ethnographic, musicological, sociological, gender studies and cultural studies approaches to analysing Prince's career.

Dandy Style

Shaun Cole,Miles Lambert
Dandy Style Book PDF

Author : Shaun Cole,Miles Lambert
Publisher : Yale University Press
Page : 169 pages
File Size : 55,9 Mb
Release : 2021
Category : Art
ISBN : 9780300254136

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Dandy Style by Shaun Cole,Miles Lambert Pdf

Celebrating 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man The style of the dandy is elegant but bold--dedicated to the perfection of taste. This meticulously choreographed look has a vibrant history; the legacy of Beau Brummell, the original dandy of Regency England, can be traced in the clothing of urban dandies today. Dandy Style celebrates 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man. Combining fashion, art, and photography, the historic and the contemporary, the provocative and the respectable, it considers key themes in the development of male style and identity, including elegance, uniformity, and spectacle. Various types of dandy are represented by iconic figures such as Oscar Wilde, Edward VIII as Prince of Wales, and Gilbert & George. They appear alongside the seminal designs of Vivienne Westwood, Ozwald Boateng, and Alexander McQueen; and portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and David Hockney.

Pragmatism and Poetic Agency

Ulf Schulenberg
Pragmatism and Poetic Agency Book PDF

Author : Ulf Schulenberg
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 276 pages
File Size : 52,7 Mb
Release : 2021-11-18
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781000469103

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Pragmatism and Poetic Agency by Ulf Schulenberg Pdf

Pragmatism is a humanist philosophy. In spite of the much-debated renaissance of pragmatism, however, a detailed discussion of the relationship between pragmatism and humanism is still a desideratum. It is difficult to understand the complexity of pragmatism without considering the significance of humanism. At least since the 1970s, humanism, mostly in its liberal version, has been vehemently attacked and criticized. In pragmatism, however, a particular understanding of humanism has persisted. Bringing literary studies, philosophy, and intellectual history together and establishing a transatlantic theoretical dialogue, Pragmatism and Poetic Agency endeavors to elucidate this persistence of humanism. Schulenberg continues the thought-provoking argument he developed in his previous two monographs by advancing the idea that one can only grasp the unique contemporary significance of pragmatism when one realizes how pragmatism, humanism, anti-authoritarianism, and postmetaphysics are interlinked. If one appreciates the implications and consequences of this link, then one is in a position to see pragmatism’s antifoundationalist and antirepresentationalist story of progress and emancipation as continuing the project of the Enlightenment.

Marxism, Pragmatism, and Postmetaphysics

Ulf Schulenberg
Marxism Pragmatism and Postmetaphysics Book PDF

Author : Ulf Schulenberg
Publisher : Springer
Page : 244 pages
File Size : 40,8 Mb
Release : 2019-02-15
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9783030115609

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Marxism, Pragmatism, and Postmetaphysics by Ulf Schulenberg Pdf

From Finding to Making offers the first detailed discussion of the relationship between Marxism and pragmatism. These two philosophies of praxis are not incompatible, and an analysis of their relation helps one to better understand both. Establishing a transatlantic theoretical dialogue, this book discusses similarities and differences between these philosophies. It is an interdisciplinary study that brings together philosophy, American and European intellectual history, and literary studies. Schulenberg’s book shows that if we seek to continue the unfinished project of establishing a genuinely postmetaphysical culture, the attempt to elucidate the dialectics of Marxism and pragmatism is a good starting point. The book offers detailed discussions of Sidney Hook, Georg Lukács, Theodor W. Adorno, Fredric Jameson, W.E.B. Du Bois, John Dewey, Richard Rorty, and Jacques Rancière.

The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 2

Christopher Breward,Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello
The Cambridge Global History of Fashion Volume 2 Book PDF

Author : Christopher Breward,Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 910 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2023-07-31
Category : History
ISBN : 9781108851473

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The Cambridge Global History of Fashion: Volume 2 by Christopher Breward,Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello Pdf

Volume II surveys the history of fashion from the nineteenth-century to the present day. Covering the period beginning with mass industry and ending with calls for sustainability, this volume challenges the meaning of modernity and modernism from a global perspective and reflects on important scholarship that has changed our understanding of the relationship between fashion and colonialism. Empires shifted and new powers rose, with fashion marking and contending with this change. The volume concludes with a critical view of fashion and globalisation, and explores the deep connections between the fashion industry, the global economy, and the politics of production and wearing in the contemporary world.

Dressing and Undressing Duchamp

Ingrid E. Mida
Dressing and Undressing Duchamp Book PDF

Author : Ingrid E. Mida
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 201 pages
File Size : 44,6 Mb
Release : 2022-08-25
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350236141

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Dressing and Undressing Duchamp by Ingrid E. Mida Pdf

Fashion is a subject that has long been marginalized in art history and in museums. And yet, one of the most well-known artists in the twentieth century - Marcel Duchamp - created works that challenge the notion that fashion does not belong in the museum. As well, there is material evidence of his engagement with clothing as part of his oeuvre. This book reveals that clothing and dressing are significant themes that recur in Duchamp's life and his work – including his drawings, his fashioning of his body, his readymades, and in his curatorial gestures. In examining the items of clothing worn by Duchamp and the related traces of his wardrobe management, Duchamp is unmasked as a dandy. His waistcoat readymade series 'Made to Measure' (1957-1961) is in fact a remarkable and deliberate effort to recalibrate the definition of the readymade to include clothing. With this little-studied readymade series, Duchamp established a precedent for sartorial art as a valid form of artistic expression. In considering the material traces of Duchamp's fashioning of his body and identity in his work and life, this book makes a highly original contribution to the understanding of Duchamp's work as well as the significance of the clothed body in the vanguard of Modernism. Ultimately, this book explains the relevance of fashion in the museum to modern audiences today.

The Hidden History of the Smock Frock

Alison Toplis
The Hidden History of the Smock Frock Book PDF

Author : Alison Toplis
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 223 pages
File Size : 43,9 Mb
Release : 2021-04-22
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350126138

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The Hidden History of the Smock Frock by Alison Toplis Pdf

Winner of the Association of Dress Historians Book of the Year Award, 2022 Traditionally associated with rural ways of life in England, often hand-crafted and held up as one of the only items of English folk dress to survive into the 20th century, the smock frock is an object of curiosity in many museum collections. Drawing on a wide variety of sources from surviving garments to newspapers and photographs, this book reveals the hidden history of the smock frock to present new social histories. Discussing the smock frock in its widest contexts, Alison Toplis explores how garments were handmade and manufactured by the ready-made clothing industry, and bought by men of different trades. She traces the smock frock's usage across England as well as in export markets such as Australia. Following the garment's decline in the late 19th century, the book investigates how this essentially utilitarian style of workwear came to be held up as an example of disappearing 'peasant' craft in an emotional response to urbanisation, and how it was preserved by collectors under the influence of the Arts and Crafts movement. Around the turn of the 20th century, the smock frock was reinvented as both women's and children's wear and is now regularly revived in fashion collections by the likes of Molly Goddard. Drawing together extensive visual and material cultures, Alison Toplis unravels a new history of the smock frock.

Branding Oscar Wilde

Michael Patrick Gillespie
Branding Oscar Wilde Book PDF

Author : Michael Patrick Gillespie
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 148 pages
File Size : 48,7 Mb
Release : 2017-10-16
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781351260145

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Branding Oscar Wilde by Michael Patrick Gillespie Pdf

Branding Oscar Wilde traces the development and perception of Wilde’s public persona and examines the impact of interpretations of his writing. Through calculated behavior, provocative language, and arresting dress, Wilde self-consciously created a brand initially recognized by family and friends, then by the British public, and ultimately by large audiences over the world. That brand changed over the course of his public career—both in the way Wilde projected it and in the way it was perceived. Comprehending the fundamental elements of the Wilde brand and following its evolution are integral to a full understanding of his art. The study focuses on how branding established important assumptions about Wilde and his work in his own mind and in those of his readers, and it examines how each stage of brand development affected the immediate responses to Wilde’s writings and, as it continued to evolve, progressively shaped our understanding of the Wilde canon.

Pockets

Hannah Carlson
Pockets Book PDF

Author : Hannah Carlson
Publisher : Algonquin Books
Page : 367 pages
File Size : 54,7 Mb
Release : 2023-09-12
Category : History
ISBN : 9781643755489

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Pockets by Hannah Carlson Pdf

“Who knew the humble pocket could hold so much history? In this enthralling and always surprising account, Hannah Carlson turns the pocket inside out and out tumble pocket watches, coins, pistols, and a riveting centuries-long social and political history.” ―Jill Lepore, author of These Truths: A History of the United States Pockets "showcases the best features of cultural history: a lively combination of visual, literary and documentary evidence. As sumptuously illustrated as it is learned … this highly inventive and original book demands a pocket sequel.” ―Jane Kamensky, Wall Street Journal Who gets pockets, and why? It’s a subject that stirs up plenty of passion: Why do men’s clothes have so many pockets and women’s so few? And why are the pockets on women’s clothes often too small to fit phones, if they even open at all? In her captivating book, Hannah Carlson, a lecturer in dress history at the Rhode Island School of Design, reveals the issues of gender politics, security, sexuality, power, and privilege tucked inside our pockets. Throughout the medieval era in Europe, the purse was an almost universal dress feature. But when tailors stitched the first pockets into men’s trousers five hundred years ago, it ignited controversy and introduced a range of social issues that we continue to wrestle with today, from concealed pistols to gender inequality. See: #GiveMePocketsOrGiveMeDeath. Filled with incredible images, this microhistory of the humble pocket uncovers what pockets tell us about ourselves: How is it that putting your hands in your pockets can be seen as a sign of laziness, arrogance, confidence, or perversion? Walt Whitman’s author photograph, hand in pocket, for Leaves of Grass seemed like an affront to middle-class respectability. When W.E.B. Du Bois posed for a portrait, his pocketed hands signaled defiant coolness. And what else might be hiding in the history of our pockets? (There’s a reason that the contents of Abraham Lincoln’s pockets are the most popular exhibit at the Library of Congress.) Thinking about the future, Carlson asks whether we will still want pockets when our clothes contain “smart” textiles that incorporate our IDs and credit cards. Pockets is for the legions of people obsessed with pockets and their absence, and for anyone interested in how our clothes influence the way we navigate the world.

Colors in Fashion

Jonathan Faiers,Mary Westerman Bulgarella
Colors in Fashion Book PDF

Author : Jonathan Faiers,Mary Westerman Bulgarella
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 54,6 Mb
Release : 2016-11-17
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474273718

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Colors in Fashion by Jonathan Faiers,Mary Westerman Bulgarella Pdf

Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion. From the use of white in pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is as mutable, nuanced, and varied as color itself. Divided into four thematic parts – solidarity, power, innovation, and desire – each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today's relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics. While acknowledging the importance that technology has played in the development of new dyes, the chapters explore color as a catalyst for technical innovation that continues to inspire designers, artists, and performers. Bringing together cutting-edge contributions from leading scholars, it is essential reading for academics of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.

Fashioning Politics and Protests

Emily L. Newman
Fashioning Politics and Protests Book PDF

Author : Emily L. Newman
Publisher : Springer Nature
Page : 274 pages
File Size : 49,9 Mb
Release : 2023-03-18
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9783031162275

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Fashioning Politics and Protests by Emily L. Newman Pdf

Through meticulous examinations, this book analyzes how women update their identities and articulate their feelings through clothing and art in protests, politics in the United States in the 20th century. Topics explored include the suffragists and their impact on contemporary art, the significance of the red dress in both The Handmaid’s Tale and the Missing and Murdered Indigenous Women movement, the impact of the Miss America protests, the rising popularity of the pantsuit for women, the recent dominance of the pussyhat, and the way that feminist slogans are disseminated on t-shirts. Movements discussed include craftivism, hashtag culture, feminism, the CROWN act, Pantsuit Nation, socially-committed stores, and more. Interdisciplinary and intersectional at its core, addressing numerous areas, including fashion, sociology, visual culture, art history, feminism, and popular culture; Fashioning Politics and Protests uncovers how women continue to use visual means, explored via their clothing, to change the world.

Tweed

Fiona Anderson
Tweed Book PDF

Author : Fiona Anderson
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 232 pages
File Size : 49,9 Mb
Release : 2016-12-15
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474263214

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Tweed by Fiona Anderson Pdf

The story of tweed is tied to a series of social, economic and cultural shifts that have molded its development. This book considers the historical factors that helped to shape the design characteristics and social meanings of the group of fabrics that we call tweed, from their emergence in the 1820s to the present day. Including significant new research on tweeds, from Harris Tweed to the type used by Chanel, this book follows the history of these fabrics from the raw fiber to the finished garment in men's and women's fashion. Exploring rural and urban contexts, this book reveals the important physical and conceptual relationships of tweed with landscape. Anderson shows that, contrary to their strong popular associations with tradition, tweeds emerged in the Romantic era as a response to the dramatic changes associated with industrialization and urbanization. Progressive changes in gender relations are also explored as a major factor in tweed's evolution, from associations with particular ideals of masculinity into what is now a truly adaptable fashion textile worn by both sexes. This is the first book of its kind to recognize the importance of tweed to fashion innovation today.