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Cartier: Innovation Through the 20th Century by François Chaille Pdf
Cartier epitomizes creativity and individuality in jewelry design. The 175 objects featured in this book exemplify Cartier’s inimitable talent and represent milestones in twentieth-century design. These archetypes of excellence are important benchmarks in the history of world jewelry, and their relevance continues into the twenty-first century. The jeweled objects in this book are reproduced at actual size, and are accompanied by illustrations and detailed descriptions from Cartier’s vast archives in London, New York, and Paris. Six essays cover a broad range of topics from Cartier’s colorful history, including the influence of the Ballets Russes on Cartier’s forward-looking designs of 1910, the jeweler’s extraordinary technical and design prowess, and the important clients and collectors who wore Cartier’s most exquisite creations. This book features ingenious pieces that reveal how Cartier—by setting new aesthetic, ornamental, technical, and stylistic trends—is a pioneer in the field of jewelry design. This catalog is an important reference for collectors, and includes previously unpublished photographs.
Cartier in the 20th Century by Margaret Young-Sánchez,Pierre Rainero,Martin Chapman Pdf
Created with the full co-operation of Cartier, this exquisite book showcases the rich holdings of the Cartier Collection and archive. It features not only a sumptuous array of rings, bracelets, necklaces, and tiaras, but also cocktail and smoking accessories, mystery clocks and lavish objects created by Cartier's ateliers in Paris, London and New York. Organized thematically, the book features magnificent jewels and accessories owned by such arbiters of taste as Daisy Fellowes, the Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace, Barbara Hutton and Elizabeth Taylor. Throughout, specially commissioned photographs of Cartier's legendary jewels are accompanied by vintage photographs - drawn from the Condé Nast and Cartier archives - of these royals, socialites and Hollywood stars in their Cartier finery, including work by Steichen, Horst, Beaton and Charbonneau.
“A dynamic group biography studded with design history and high-society dash . . . [This] elegantly wrought narrative bears the Cartier hallmark.”—The Economist The “astounding” (André Leon Talley) story of the family behind the Cartier empire and the three brothers who turned their grandfather’s humble Parisian jewelry store into a global luxury icon—as told by a great-granddaughter with exclusive access to long-lost family archives “Ms. Cartier Brickell has done her grandfather proud.”—The Wall Street Journal The Cartiers is the revealing tale of a jewelry dynasty—four generations, from revolutionary France to the 1970s. At its heart are the three Cartier brothers whose motto was “Never copy, only create” and who made their family firm internationally famous in the early days of the twentieth century, thanks to their unique and complementary talents: Louis, the visionary designer who created the first men’s wristwatch to help an aviator friend tell the time without taking his hands off the controls of his flying machine; Pierre, the master dealmaker who bought the New York headquarters on Fifth Avenue for a double-stranded natural pearl necklace; and Jacques, the globe-trotting gemstone expert whose travels to India gave Cartier access to the world’s best rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, inspiring the celebrated Tutti Frutti jewelry. Francesca Cartier Brickell, whose great-grandfather was the youngest of the brothers, has traveled the world researching her family’s history, tracking down those connected with her ancestors and discovering long-lost pieces of the puzzle along the way. Now she reveals never-before-told dramas, romances, intrigues, betrayals, and more. The Cartiers also offers a behind-the-scenes look at the firm’s most iconic jewelry—the notoriously cursed Hope Diamond, the Romanov emeralds, the classic panther pieces—and the long line of stars from the worlds of fashion, film, and royalty who wore them, from Indian maharajas and Russian grand duchesses to Wallis Simpson, Coco Chanel, and Elizabeth Taylor. Published in the two-hundredth anniversary year of the birth of the dynasty’s founder, Louis-François Cartier, this book is a magnificent, definitive, epic social history shown through the deeply personal lens of one legendary family.
Cartier’s peerless designers have continued to amaze decade after decade—from the 1930s into the twenty-first century—with their fanciful and trendsetting creations. Figurative pieces comprise a significant portion of the house’s collection—a veritable menagerie that includes bejeweled roosters and cobras cohabitating with tigers and angelfish. In addition to whimsical fauna and resplendent flora, Cartier crafted items of precisely mastered abstraction, from virtuoso work in gold to chromatic harmonies ranging from subtle to bold. The second half of the twentieth century was to provide an inexhaustible repertoire of forms for decorative objects and finery. Close-ups of hundreds of Cartier pieces are supplemented with archival drawings, as well as society and fashion photographs. This volume chronicles the rise of a pioneering firm and illustrates the power of constantly renewed styles based on a fine balance between imagination and know-how, creativity and experience. Fashion writer Nadine Coleno situates the emergence of Cartier’s creations in their historical and stylistic context. This volume offers an eloquent tribute to the multiple talents that have transformed the name of a dynasty of jewelers into the universal gold standard in jewelry design.
The Cartier Collection: Precious Objects by François Chaille Pdf
This collectible luxury volume features the master jeweler’s most exquisite objects reproduced in color at actual size and including detailed technical specifications. Presented in a luxurious silk slipcase with ribbon closure, this tome is a tribute to the most precious objects in the Cartier Collection: from opulent gold and black enamel vanity cases set with platinum and rose-cut diamond fleurons to intricate Chinese powder compacts and diamond-encrusted platinum and onyx cuff links, these creations are works of art. This handsome volume recounts the history of the House of Cartier and its sublimation of often everyday items, illustrated with more than 550 pieces along with rare archival material.
Made by Cartier by Franco Cologni,Ettore Mocchetti Pdf
The unlimited creativity of Carrier is reflected in these stunning objects of elegance, expanding beyond the bounds of watches and jewellery. From cameo cuff links to a blue leather beauty case (complete with ivory travel clock, gold cigarette case, and enamel aton-dzer), to ivory swizzle sticks and a black crystal panther, the objects depicted here reflect a rich variety of artistic inspiration.
Historians have long engaged in passionate debate about collective memory and national identity. Alan Gordon focuses on one national hero � Jacques Cartier � to explore how notions about the past have been passed from generation to generation in English- and French-speaking Canada and used to present particular ideas about the world. Nineteenth-century celebrations of Cartier reflected a new understanding of history that accompanied the arrival of modernity in North America. This sensibility, in turn, influenced the political and cultural currents of nation building in Canada. Cartier may have been a point of contact between English and French Canada, but the nature of that contact, as Gordon shows, had profound limitations.
Ancient Egypt in the Modern Imagination by Eleanor Dobson,Nichola Tonks Pdf
Ancient Egypt has always been a source of fascination to writers, artists and architects in the West. This book is the first study to address representations of Ancient Egypt in the modern imagination, breaking down conventional disciplinary boundaries between fields such as History, Classics, Art History, Fashion, Film, Archaeology, Egyptology, and Literature to further a nuanced understanding of ancient Egypt in cultures stretching from the eighteenth century to the present day, emphasising how some of the various meanings of ancient Egypt to modern people have traversed time and media. Divided into three themes, the chapters scrutinise different aspects of the use of ancient Egypt in a variety of media, looking in particular at the ways in which Egyptology as a discipline has influenced representations of Egypt, ancient Egypt's associations with death and mysticism, as well as connections between ancient Egypt and gendered power. The diversity of this study aims to emphasise both the multiplicity and the patterning of popular responses to ancient Egypt, as well as the longevity of this phenomenon and its relevance today.
20th Century Jewelry & the Icons of Style by Stefano Papi,Alexandra Rhodes Pdf
“Worthwhile, both for the sumptuous jewelry and for the stunning lifestyle photographs.” —Society of Jewelry Historians For many centuries, collecting precious jewels was the province of kings and queens, emperors, and maharajas. But in the aftermath of the First World War, royal gems passed into the hands of a different kind of elite that included celebrities and a coterie that reveled in a nouveau riche whirl. Changes in fashion and the rise of Art Deco style led them to reset pieces or commission exquisite contemporary designs. Authors Stefano Papi and Alexandra Rhodes explore this dazzling era via profiles of eleven glamorous women who built up astonishing jewelry collections in the mid-twentieth century. This revised and updated edition includes two new chapters that explore the lives and jewels of Ganna Walska and Hélene Rochas. The authors reveal the remarkable stories behind the jewels and their collectors. Not only do they bring to life the worlds in which these women moved, but they also describe the gems in detail and chronicle the work of the leading jewelers of the day, including Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and Harry Winston. The book is illustrated with gorgeous close-up photography of the jewels as well as drawings of the original designs, and includes portraits of the collectors by Beaton, Horst, and other leading photographers of the time.
Audemars Piguet (Italian Edition) by Chaille Francois Pdf
The pursuit of excellence is reflected in Audemars Piguets prestigious models, painstakingly crafted by artisans for over 130 years. Founded in 1875 by Jules-Louis Audemars and Edward-Auguste Piguet, the manufacturing headquarters of Audemars Piguet are nestled in the Joux Valley in Switzerland. For more than a century, this prestigious company has held a unique position in the world of high quality watch making: its expertise, creativity, and state-of-the-art technology lie behind Audemars Piguets luxurious and innovative watches. At the turn of the twentieth century, the factory employed more than seventy craftsmen, whose mastery and excellent grasp of the changing times enabled the development of traditional pieces, and the production of revolutionary watches, both of the highest quality. These include the slimline jeweled watches for women in the Art Deco era, chronographs in the Forties, the first perpetual calendar watch in 1957, the famous Royal Oakthe first high-end sports watchin 1972, and the ultramodern Millenary MC12 in 2008. The mechanisms, the meticulous processes by which they are developed, and their technical and stylistic inventions reveal the history of a company that combines audacity, ingenuity, and luxury.
From the creation of its first writing implements in 1868 to today's position as the world's second largest producer of fine writing instruments, Cartier has beautifully combined technical innovation with creative audacity. This volume features a comprehensive selection of pieces from Cartier's incredibly inventive repertoire-- pens, inkwells, mechanical pencils, calendars, stationary and other accessories-- dating from the middle of the 19th century to the present, weaving the story of Cartier's production as a joaillier into the broader fabric of the history of writing instruments and the famous clients who chose to use them. The historical pieces-- many of which are shown here for the first time-- are highly sought after by collectors, and even those made during the last decade are commanding record prices in the salesrooms. The Baron de Rothschild, J. P. Morgan, Mona Bismarck, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, and Rudyard Kipling are among the distinguished clients who wrote with magnificent pens and pencils made of gold or platinum, incorporating diamonds, jade, sapphires, emeralds, lacquer, mother-of-pearl, or ingenious timepieces and calendars. One-of-a-kind pieces from New York, Paris and London are thoroughly documented and illustrated with photography specially commissioned for this book. The contemporary writing instruments featured here, from the famous Must to the recent Diabolo de Cartier demonstrate how the company's designers are using the company's long-standing traditions to remain at the forefront of imaginative pen and pencil design for the future. This eloquent testimony to the ingenuity and craftsmanship of Cartier's designers and craftsmen will be essential to collectors of writing instruments and to all those interested in jewelry and the decorative arts.
A richly illustrated look at some of the most important photobooks of the 20th century France experienced a golden age of photobook production from the late 1920s through the 1950s. Avant-garde experiments in photography, text, design, and printing, within the context of a growing modernist publishing scene, contributed to an outpouring of brilliantly designed books. Making Strange offers a detailed examination of photobook innovation in France, exploring seminal publications by Brassaï, Henri Cartier-Bresson, Robert Frank, Pierre Jahan, William Klein, and Germaine Krull. Kim Sichel argues that these books both held a mirror to their time and created an unprecedented modernist visual language. Sichel provides an engaging analysis through the lens of materiality, emphasizing the photobook as an object with which the viewer interacts haptically as well as visually. Rich in historical context and beautifully illustrated, Making Strange reasserts the role of French photobooks in the history of modern art.
Surrounded by water and located at the heart of a fertile plain, the Island of Montreal has been a crossroads for Indigenous peoples, European settlers, and today's citizens, and an inland port city for the movement of people and goods into and out of North America. Commemorating the city's 375th anniversary, Montreal: The History of a North American City is the definitive, two-volume account of this fascinating metropolis and its storied hinterland. This comprehensive collection of essays, filled with hundreds of illustrations, photographs, and maps, draws on human geography and environmental history to show that while certain distinctive features remain unchanged – Mount Royal, the Lachine Rapids of the Saint Lawrence River – human intervention and urban evolution mean that over time Montrealers have had drastically different experiences and historical understandings. Significant issues such as religion, government, social conditions, the economy, labour, transportation, culture and entertainment, and scientific and technological innovation are treated thematically in innovative and diverse chapters to illuminate how people's lives changed along with the transformation of Montreal. This history of a city in motion presents an entire picture of the changes that have marked the region as it spread from the old city of Ville-Marie into parishes, autonomous towns, boroughs, and suburbs on and off the island. The first volume encompasses the city up to 1930, vividly depicting the lives of First Nations prior to the arrival of Europeans, colonization by the French, and the beginning of British Rule. The crucial roles of waterways, portaging, paths, and trails as the primary means of travelling and trade are first examined before delving into the construction of canals, railways, and the first major roads. Nineteenth-century industrialization created a period of near-total change in Montreal as it became Canada's leading city and witnessed staggering population growth from less than 20,000 people in 1800 to over one million by 1930. The second volume treats the history of Montreal since 1930, the year that the Jacques Cartier Bridge was opened and allowed for the outward expansion of a region, which before had been confined to the island. From the Great Depression and Montreal's role as a munitions manufacturing centre during the Second World War to major cultural events like Expo 67, the twentieth century saw Montreal grow into one of the continent's largest cities, requiring stringent management of infrastructure, public utilities, and transportation. This volume also extensively studies the kinds of political debate with which the region and country still grapple regarding language, nationalism, federalism, and self-determination. Contributors include Philippe Apparicio (INRS), Guy Bellavance (INRS), Laurence Bherer (University of Montreal), Stéphane Castonguay (UQTR), the late Jean-Pierre Collin (INRS), Magda Fahrni (UQAM), the late Jean-Marie Fecteau (UQAM), Dany Fougères (UQAM), Robert Gagnon (UQAM), Danielle Gauvreau (Concordia), Annick Germain (INRS), Janice Harvey (Dawson College), Annie-Claude Labrecque (independent scholar), Yvan Lamonde (McGill), Daniel Latouche (INRS), Roderick MacLeod (independent scholar), Paula Negron-Poblete (University of Montreal), Normand Perron (INRS), Martin Petitclerc (UQAM), Christian Poirier (INRS), Claire Poitras (INRS), Mario Polèse (INRS), Myriam Richard (unaffiliated), Damaris Rose (INRS), Anne-Marie Séguin (INRS), Gilles Sénécal (INRS), Valérie Shaffer (independent scholar), Richard Shearmur (McGill), Sylvie Taschereau (UQTR), Michel Trépanier (INRS), Laurent Turcot (UQTR), Nathalie Vachon (INRS), and Roland Viau (University of Montreal).
Cartier Collection: Jewelry by François Chaille Pdf
This sumptuous collector's volume showcases, at actual size, over 600 objects and drawings from Cartier's vast archives-many for the first time. The text recounts how this collection of over 1,200 items, dating from the 1860s to the present, was formed; explains the antique jewelry market; and imparts the artistic genius that places Cartier among the world's premier jewelers. Devoted to fine jewelry, this book presents pieces that were designed for the Duchess of Windsor, Daisy Fellowes, and Barbara Hutton alongside the Maharadjah of Patiala's recently restored necklace that once contained the famous De Beers diamond. Fascinating stories and complete technical details present Cartier's most artful creations, from glittering tiaras to pieces from the famous "bestiary" of panthers, dragons, chimera, birds, and crocodiles, as well as rare brooches, necklaces, and bracelets. With its lavish slipcase, over a dozen gatefolds, extensive documentation, illustrated chronology, and index, this book is a must for specialists in the decorative arts and jewelry, and a publishing event for the quality of its design and reproductions.
