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Author : G. J. Komen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 558 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 1994-09-15
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780521470476
A comprehensive introduction and reference prepared by the world's leading ocean wave modellers.
Author : Ian Young,Alexander Babanin
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 396 pages
File Size : 42,8 Mb
Release : 2020-03-20
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811208683
Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Author : Joseph Pedlosky
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 259 pages
File Size : 51,8 Mb
Release : 2013-04-17
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783662051313
A study of the fundamental theory of waves appropriate for first year graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and associated sciences. Starting with an elementary overview of the basic wave concept, specific wave phenomena are then examined, including: surface gravity waves, internal gravity waves, lee waves, waves in the presence of rotation, and geostrophic adjustment. Each wave topic is used to introduce either a new technique or concept in general wave theory. Emphasis is placed on connectivity between the various subjects and on the physical interpretation of the mathematical results. The book contains numerous exercises at the end of the respective chapters.
Author : Chiang C. Mei
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 770 pages
File Size : 40,9 Mb
Release : 1989
Category : Science
ISBN : 9971507897
The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Author : Peter Janssen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 310 pages
File Size : 48,9 Mb
Release : 2004-10-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780521465403
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author : Hitoshi Gotoh,Akio Okayasu,Yasunori Watanabe
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
Page : 252 pages
File Size : 44,6 Mb
Release : 2013-06-04
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789814449724
This book provides a comprehensive description of the latest theory-supported numerical technologies, as well as scientific and engineering applications for water surface waves. Its contents are crafted to cater to a step-by-step learning of computational wave dynamics and ocean wave modeling. It provides a comprehensive description from underlying theories of free-surface flows, to practical computational applications for coastal and ocean engineering on the basis of computational fluid dynamics (CFD). The text may be used as a textbook for advanced undergraduate students and graduate students to understand the theoretical background of wave computations, and the recent progress of computational techniques for free-surface and interfacial flows, such as Volume of Fluid (VOF), Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP), Lagrangian Particle (SPH, MPS), Distinct Element (DEM) and Euler-Lagrange Hybrid Methods. It is also suitable for researchers and engineers who wish to apply CFD techniques to ocean modeling and practical coastal problems involving sediment transport, wave-structure interaction and surf zone flows.
Author : Vallam Sundar
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 362 pages
File Size : 45,6 Mb
Release : 2021-07-05
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789811236686
The increase in exploration and exploitation of ocean resources, maritime trade and ocean energy have led to development of new concepts in the study of coastal and marine structures. These developments necessitate comprehensive and in-depth knowledge of ocean wave behavior in the offshore as well as in the nearshore, such as the phenomena of wave generation, propagation, deformation and its effects, which help to enlighten our understanding of its influence on coastal and offshore structures.Ocean Wave Dynamics for Coastal and Marine Structures is a recommended textbook for students and researchers in ocean sciences, engineering and related topics. It offers application of theoretical formulae to practical relevance through problem solving. This book will also be invaluable for professionals in ports, offshore and marine industries as well as consulting companies.
Author : Maged Marghany
Publisher : Elsevier
Page : 464 pages
File Size : 51,7 Mb
Release : 2021-02-09
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780128209257
Nonlinear Ocean Dynamics: Synthetic Aperture Radar delivers the critical tools needed to understand the latest technology surrounding the radar imaging of nonlinear waves, particularly microwave radar, as a main source to understand, analyze and apply concepts in the field of ocean dynamic surface. Filling the gap between modern physics quantum theory and applications of radar imaging of ocean dynamic surface, this reference is packed with technical details associated with the potentiality of synthetic aperture radar (SAR). The book also includes key methods needed to extract the value-added information necessary, such as wave spectra energy, current pattern velocity, internal waves, and more. This book also reveals novel speculation of a shallow coastal front: named as Quantized Marghany's Front. Rounding out with practical simulations of 4-D wave-current interaction patterns using using radar images, the book brings an effective new source of technology and applications for today’s coastal scientists and engineers. Solves specific problems surrounding the nonlinearity of ocean surface dynamics in synthetic aperture radar data Helps develop new algorithms for retrieving ocean wave spectra and ocean current movements from synthetic aperture radar Includes over 100 equations that illustrate how to follow examples in the book
Author : Igor Lavrenov
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 394 pages
File Size : 46,5 Mb
Release : 2003-02-27
Category : Science
ISBN : 3540440151
The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
Author : O. M. Phillips,Klaus Hasselmann
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 677 pages
File Size : 41,7 Mb
Release : 2012-12-06
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9781468489804
In 1960, Dr. George Deacon ofthe National Institute ofOceanography in England organized a meeting in Easton, Maryland that summarized the state of our understanding at that time of ocean wave statistics and dynamics. It was a pivotal occasion: spectral techniques for wave measurement were beginning to be used, wave-wave interactions hadjust been discovered, and simple models for the growth of waves by wind were being developed. The meeting laid the foundation for much work that was to follow, but one could hardly have imagined the extent to which new techniques of measurement, particularly by remote sensing, new methods of calculation and computation, and new theoretical and laboratory results would, in the following twenty years, build on this base. When Gaspar Valenzuela of the V. S. Naval Research Laboratory perceived that the time was right for a second such meeting, it was natural that Sir George Deacon would be invited to serve as honorary chairman for the meeting, and the entire waves community was delighted at his acceptance. The present volume contains reviewed and edited papers given at this second meeting, held this time in Miami, Florida, May 13-20, 1981, with the generous support of the Office of Naval Research, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.
Author : Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 9 pages
File Size : 41,6 Mb
Release : 2010-02-04
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781139462525
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author : Dmitry V. Chalikov
Publisher : Springer
Page : 330 pages
File Size : 49,7 Mb
Release : 2016-06-25
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783319329161
Presenting a novel approach to wave theory, this book applies mathematical modeling to the investigation of sea waves. It presents problems, solutions and methods, and explores issues such as statistical properties of sea waves, generation of turbulence, Benjamin-Feir instability and the development of wave fields under the action of wind. Special attention is paid to the processes of dynamic wind-wave interaction, the formation of freak waves, as well as the role that sea waves play in the dynamic ocean/atmosphere system. It presents theoretical results which are followed by a description of the algorithms used in the development of wave forecasting models, and provides illustrations to assist understanding of the various models presented. This book provides an invaluable resource to oceanographers, specialists in fluid dynamics and advanced students interested in investigation of the widely known but poorly investigated phenomenon of sea waves.
Author : Pablo Higuera,Jinghua Wang,Jie Hu,Zhengtong Yang
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 208 pages
File Size : 47,6 Mb
Release : 2023-03-16
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811265471
This unique compendium introduces the field of numerical modelling of water waves. The topics included the most widely used water wave modelling approaches, presented in increasing order of complexity and categorized into phase-averaged and phase-resolving at the highest level.A comprehensive state-of-the-art review is provided for each chapter, comprising the historical development of the method, the most relevant models and their practical applications. A full description on the method's underlying assumptions and limitations are also provided. The final chapter features coupling among different models, outlining the different types of implementations, highlighting their pros and cons, and providing numerous relevant examples for full context.The useful reference text benefits professionals, researchers, academics, graduate and undergraduate students in wave mechanics in general and coastal and ocean engineering in particular.
Author : Efim Pelinovsky,Christian Kharif
Publisher : Springer
Page : 236 pages
File Size : 44,8 Mb
Release : 2015-09-02
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783319215754
This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Author : Zygmunt Kowalik,Tadepalli Satyanarayana Murty
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 508 pages
File Size : 52,8 Mb
Release : 1993
Category : Science
ISBN : 9810213336
While there are several excellent books dealing with numerical analysis and analytical theory, one has to practically sift through hundreds of references. This monograph is an attempt to partly rectify this situation. It aims to introduce the application of finite-difference methods to ocean dynamics as well as review other complex methods. Systematically presented, the monograph first gives a detailed account of the basics and then go on to discuss the various applications. Recognising the impossibility of covering the entire field of ocean dynamics, the writers have chosen to focus on transport equations (diffusion and advection), shallow water phenomena ? tides, storm surges and tsunamis, three-dimensional time dependent oceanic motion, natural oscillations, and steady state phenomena. The many aspects covered by this book makes it an indispensable handbook and reference source to both professionals and students of this field.