Fashioneast

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Advertising, Sex, and Post-Socialism

Elza Ibroscheva

Author : Elza Ibroscheva
Publisher : Lexington Books
Page : 204 pages
File Size : 55,8 Mb
Release : 2013-06-20
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9780739172674

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Advertising, Sex, and Post-Socialism by Elza Ibroscheva Pdf

Advertising, Sex, and Post-Socialism explores the role of advertising and the consumption it promotes in changing cultural perceptions of sex and femininity across the Balkan region. Elza Ibroscheva theorizes how the marketing of gender identities that has taken place in the years of post-socialist transition has fundamentally affected the social, economic, and political positioning of women. Advertising is one of the major “factories” of cultural signification, and as such, serves as the most ubiquitous vessel of global norms of gendered selves. In addition, advertising serves as a literacy tool for learning the grammar of consumption, studying the ideologies of femininity and sex before and after the collapse of the socialist project, as well as the prevailing portrayals of femininity in advertising in present day Bulgaria. This book provides a revealing look at the mechanisms of how post-socialist norms of sexual behavior are being engendered, and what role media play in this transformative process.

FashionEast

Djurdja Bartlett

Author : Djurdja Bartlett
Publisher : MIT Press
Page : 339 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 2010-10-08
Category : Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN : 9780262026505

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FashionEast by Djurdja Bartlett Pdf

A richly illustrated, comprehensive study of fashion under socialism, from state-sponsored prototypes to unofficial imitations of Paris fashion. The idea of fashion under socialism conjures up images of babushka headscarves and black market blue jeans. And yet, as Djurdja Bartlett shows in this groundbreaking book, the socialist East had an intimate relationship with fashion. Official antagonism—which cast fashion as frivolous and anti-revolutionary—eventually gave way to grudging acceptance and creeping consumerism. Bartlett outlines three phases in socialist fashion, and illustrates them with abundant images from magazines of the period: postrevolutionary utopian dress, official state-sanctioned socialist fashion, and samizdat-style everyday fashion. Utopian dress, ranging from the geometric abstraction of the constructivists under Bolshevism in the Soviet Union to the no-frills desexualized uniform of a factory worker in Czechoslovakia, reflected the revolutionary urge for a clean break with the past. The highly centralized socialist fashion system, part of Stalinist industrialization, offered official prototypes of high fashion that were never available in stores—mythical images of smart and luxurious dresses that symbolized the economic progress that socialist regimes dreamed of. Everyday fashion, starting in the 1950s, was an unofficial, do-it-yourself enterprise: Western fashions obtained through semiclandestine channels or sewn at home. The state tolerated the demand for Western fashion, promising the burgeoning middle class consumer goods in exchange for political loyalty. Bartlett traces the progress of socialist fashion in the Soviet Union, Czechoslovakia, Hungary, East Germany, Poland, and Yugoslavia, drawing on state-sponsored socialist women's magazines, etiquette books, socialist manuals on dress, private archives, and her own interviews with designers, fashion editors, and other key figures. Fashion, she suggests, with all its ephemerality and dynamism, was in perpetual conflict with the socialist regimes' fear of change and need for control. It was, to echo the famous first sentence from the Communist Manifesto, the spectre that haunted socialism until the end.

Workplace Fables

Mark Price

Author : Mark Price
Publisher : David Fickling Books
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 2017-10-05
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781910989944

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Workplace Fables by Mark Price Pdf

A collection of true stories from one of the UK's most experienced businessmen, demonstrating best practices and common mistakes in business and the work place. After thirty years of life in the John Lewis Partnership Mark Price imparts some wisdom and gentle humour with these workplace fables. A heartwarming and highly instructive look at what you should and shouldn't do in business today. Divided into thirteen chapters, each containing about ten fables, this is a fantastically entertaining selection of Mark Price's real life business experiences - the good and the bad, the inventive and the hilariously stupid - these are the lessons of a lifetime, condensed into one, easy to read, volume.

The Soviet Century

Karl Schlögel

Author : Karl Schlögel
Publisher : Princeton University Press
Page : 928 pages
File Size : 42,6 Mb
Release : 2023-03-14
Category : History
ISBN : 9780691232386

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The Soviet Century by Karl Schlögel Pdf

An encyclopedic and richly detailed history of everyday life in the Soviet Union The Soviet Union is gone, but its ghostly traces remain, not least in the material vestiges left behind in its turbulent wake. What was it really like to live in the USSR? What did it look, feel, smell, and sound like? In The Soviet Century, Karl Schlögel, one of the world’s leading historians of the Soviet Union, presents a spellbinding epic that brings to life the everyday world of a unique lost civilization. A museum of—and travel guide to—the Soviet past, The Soviet Century explores in evocative detail both the largest and smallest aspects of life in the USSR, from the Gulag, the planned economy, the railway system, and the steel city of Magnitogorsk to cookbooks, military medals, prison camp tattoos, and the ubiquitous perfume Red Moscow. The book examines iconic aspects of Soviet life, including long queues outside shops, cramped communal apartments, parades, and the Lenin mausoleum, as well as less famous but important parts of the USSR, including the Great Soviet Encyclopedia, the voice of Radio Moscow, graffiti, and even the typical toilet, which became a pervasive social and cultural topic. Throughout, the book shows how Soviet life simultaneously combined utopian fantasies, humdrum routine, and a pervasive terror symbolized by the Lubyanka, then as now the headquarters of the secret police. Drawing on Schlögel’s decades of travel in the Soviet and post-Soviet world, and featuring more than eighty illustrations, The Soviet Century is vivid, immediate, and grounded in firsthand encounters with the places and objects it describes. The result is an unforgettable account of the Soviet Century.

Soviet Consumer Culture in the Brezhnev Era

Natalya Chernyshova

Author : Natalya Chernyshova
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 280 pages
File Size : 41,7 Mb
Release : 2013-06-26
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781135046279

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Soviet Consumer Culture in the Brezhnev Era by Natalya Chernyshova Pdf

After decades of turmoil and trauma, the Brezhnev era brought stability and an unprecedented rise in living standards to the Soviet Union, enabling ordinary people to enjoy modern consumer goods on an entirely new scale. This book analyses the politics and economics of the state’s efforts to improve living standards, and shows how mass consumption was often used as an instrument of legitimacy, ideology and modernization. However, the resulting consumer revolution brought its own problems for the socialist regime. Rising well-being and the resulting ethos of consumption altered citizens’ relationship with the state and had profound consequences for the communist project. The book uses a wealth of sources to explore the challenge that consumer modernity was posing to Soviet ‘mature socialism’ between the mid-1960s and the early 1980s. It combines analysis of economic policy and public debates on consumerism with the stories of ordinary people and their attitudes to fashion, Western goods and the home. The book contests the notion that Soviet consumers were merely passive, abused, eternally queuing victims and that the Brezhnev era was a period of ‘stagnation’, arguing instead that personal consumption provided the incentive and the space for individuals to connect and interact with society and the regime even before perestroika. This book offers a lively account of Soviet society and everyday life during a period which is rapidly becoming a new frontier of historical research.

A Companion to Russian Cinema

Birgit Beumers

Author : Birgit Beumers
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
Page : 672 pages
File Size : 50,7 Mb
Release : 2016-05-17
Category : Performing Arts
ISBN : 9781118424735

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A Companion to Russian Cinema by Birgit Beumers Pdf

A Companion to Russian Cinema provides an exhaustive and carefully organised guide to the cinema of pre-Revolutionary Russia, of the Soviet era, as well as post-Soviet Russian cinema, edited by one of the most established and knowledgeable scholars in Russian cinema studies. The most up-to-date and thorough coverage of Russian, Soviet and post-Soviet cinema, which also effectively fills gaps in the existing scholarship in the field This is the first volume on Russian cinema to explore specifically the history of movie theatres, studios, and educational institutions The editor is one of the most established and knowledgeable scholars in Russian cinema studies, and contributions come from leading experts in the field of Russian Studies, Film Studies and Visual Culture Chapters consider the arts of scriptwriting, sound, production design, costumes and cinematography Provides five portraits of key figures in Soviet and Russia film history, whose works have been somewhat neglected

Russian Style

Julie A. Cassiday

Author : Julie A. Cassiday
Publisher : University of Wisconsin Pres
Page : 270 pages
File Size : 52,9 Mb
Release : 2023
Category : History
ISBN : 9780299346706

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Russian Style by Julie A. Cassiday Pdf

In the two decades after the turn of the millennium, Vladimir Putin's control over Russian politics and society grew at a steady pace. As the West liberalized its stance on sexuality and gender, Putin's Russia moved in the opposite direction, remolding the performance of Russian citizenship according to a neoconservative agenda characterized by increasingly exaggerated gender roles. By connecting gendered and sexualized citizenship to developments in Russian popular culture, Julie A. Cassiday argues that heteronormativity and homophobia became a kind of politicized style under Putin's leadership. However, while the multiple modes of gender performativity generated in Russian popular culture between 2000 and 2010 supported Putin's neoconservative agenda, they also helped citizens resist and protest the state's mandate of heteronormativity. Examining everything from memes to the Eurovision Song Contest and self-help literature, Cassiday untangles the discourse of gender to argue that drag, or travesti, became the performative trope par excellence in Putin's Russia. Provocatively, Cassiday further argues that the exaggerated expressions of gender demanded by Putin's regime are best understood as a form of cisgender drag. This smart and lively study provides critical, nuanced analysis of the relationship between popular culture and politics in Russia during Putin's first two decades in power.

Time and Material Culture

Julie Deschepper,Antony Kalashnikov,Federica Rossi

Author : Julie Deschepper,Antony Kalashnikov,Federica Rossi
Publisher : Taylor & Francis
Page : 275 pages
File Size : 55,6 Mb
Release : 2024-07-05
Category : History
ISBN : 9781040092200

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Time and Material Culture by Julie Deschepper,Antony Kalashnikov,Federica Rossi Pdf

This edited volume offers an original exploration into the ways in which Soviet culture and experience of time were unique, examining the temporalities expressed in the world of socialist things: from the objects of everyday life to urban architecture. Grounding the analysis of Soviet temporalities in their material incarnations not only lends concreteness to discussions of temporal culture, but also draws out ways in which the specificities of Soviet things—and their planning, design, manufacture, and consumption—mediated and produced particular ways of experiencing, perceiving, and representing time. As such, Time and Material Culture turns a new page in the study of the temporal and material culture of Soviet socialism and, in doing so, contributes to broader debates on the changing experiences of time in the global twentieth century. The book integrates interdisciplinary perspectives as well as regional approaches sensitive to the multinational nature of the Soviet project. Time and Material Culture will be useful to academics, upper-level undergraduates, and graduate students interested in twentieth-century cultures of time.

Seasoned Socialism

Anastasia Lakhtikova,Angela Brintlinger,Irina Glushchenko

Author : Anastasia Lakhtikova,Angela Brintlinger,Irina Glushchenko
Publisher : Indiana University Press
Page : 396 pages
File Size : 43,7 Mb
Release : 2019-04-01
Category : History
ISBN : 9780253040992

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Seasoned Socialism by Anastasia Lakhtikova,Angela Brintlinger,Irina Glushchenko Pdf

Seasoned Socialism considers the relationship between gender and food in late Soviet daily life. Political and economic conditions heavily influenced Soviet life and foodways during this period and an exploration of Soviet women’s central role in the daily sustenance for their families as well as the obstacles they faced on this quest offers new insights into intergenerational and inter-gender power dynamics of that time. Food, both in its quality and quantity, was a powerful tool in the Soviet Union. This collection features work by scholars in an array of fields including cultural studies, literary studies, sociology, history, and food studies, and the work gathered here explores the intersection of gender, food, and culture in the post-1960s Soviet context. From personal cookbooks to gulag survival strategies, Seasoned Socialism considers gender construction and performance across a wide array of primary sources, including poetry, fiction, film, women’s journals, oral histories, and interviews. This collection provides fresh insight into how the Soviet government sought to influence both what citizens ate and how they thought about food.

The Soviet Sixties

Robert Hornsby

Author : Robert Hornsby
Publisher : Yale University Press
Page : 501 pages
File Size : 55,9 Mb
Release : 2023
Category : History
ISBN : 9780300250527

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The Soviet Sixties by Robert Hornsby Pdf

The story of a remarkable era of reform, controversy, optimism, and Cold War confrontation in the Soviet Union Beginning with the death of Stalin in 1953, the "sixties" era in the Soviet Union was just as vibrant and transformative as in the West. The ideological romanticism of the revolutionary years was revived, with renewed emphasis on egalitarianism, equality, and the building of a communist utopia. Mass terror was reined in, great victories were won in the space race, Stalinist cultural dogmas were challenged, and young people danced to jazz and rock and roll. Robert Hornsby examines this remarkable and surprising period, showing that, even as living standards rose, aspects of earlier days endured. Censorship and policing remained tight, and massacres during protests in Tbilisi and Novocherkassk, alongside invasions of Hungary and Czechoslovakia, showed the limits of reform. The rivalry with the United States reached perhaps its most volatile point, friendship with China turned to bitter enmity, and global decolonization opened up new horizons for the USSR in the developing world. These tumultuous years transformed the lives of Soviet citizens and helped reshape the wider world.

Dress History of Korea

Kyunghee Pyun,Minjee Kim

Author : Kyunghee Pyun,Minjee Kim
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 369 pages
File Size : 51,8 Mb
Release : 2023-04-20
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350143388

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Dress History of Korea by Kyunghee Pyun,Minjee Kim Pdf

Bringing together a wealth of primary sources and with contributions from leading experts, Dress History of Korea presents the most recent approaches to the interpretation of dress and fashion of Korea. Through close analysis of visual, written, and material sources-some newly excavated or recently re-discovered in global museums-the book reveals how dress and adornment evolved from the period of state formation to the modern era. Authors with a range of academic and curatorial experience discuss the close relation of dress and adornments to the socio-political and cultural history of Korea and place the dress history of Korea within broader contexts in studies of fashion, material culture, museology, and costume design. As in other cultures, modern Korean fashion owes many of its styles to historic dress and this process of adaptation is explored within high fashion and popular culture contexts in ways that benefit historians, curators, and designers alike. With key materials newly available to global readers, Dress History of Korea is the indispensable guide to the study of Korean dress and fashion.

Fashion Meets Socialism

Jukka Gronow,Sergey Zhuravlev

Author : Jukka Gronow,Sergey Zhuravlev
Publisher : Suomalaisen Kirjallisuuden Seura
Page : 306 pages
File Size : 40,5 Mb
Release : 2015-08-19
Category : History
ISBN : 9789522227522

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Fashion Meets Socialism by Jukka Gronow,Sergey Zhuravlev Pdf

This book presents, above all, a study of the establishment and development of the Soviet organization and system of fashion industry and design as it gradually evolved in the years after the Second World War in the Soviet Union, which was, in the understanding of its leaders, reaching the mature or last stage of socialism when the country was firmly set on the straight trajectory to its final goal, Communism. What was typical of this complex and extensive system of fashion was that it was always loyally subservient to the principles of the planned socialist economy. This did not by any means indicate that everything the designers and other fashion professionals did was dictated entirely from above by the central planning agencies. Neither did it mean that their professional judgment would have been only secondary to ideological and political standards set by the Communist Party and the government of the Soviet Union. On the contrary, as our study shows, the Soviet fashion professionals had a lot of autonomy. They were eager and willing to exercise their own judgment in matters of taste and to set the agenda of beauty and style for Soviet citizens. The present book is the first comprehensive and systematic history of the development of fashion and fashion institutions in the Soviet Union after the Second World War. Our study makes use of rich empirical and historical material that has been made available for the first time for scientific analysis and discussion. The main sources for our study came from the state, party and departmental archives of the former Soviet Union. We also make extensive use of oral history and the writings published in Soviet popular and professional press.

Fashion Media

Djurdja Bartlett,Shaun Cole,Agnès Rocamora

Author : Djurdja Bartlett,Shaun Cole,Agnès Rocamora
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2013-12-19
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780857853097

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Fashion Media by Djurdja Bartlett,Shaun Cole,Agnès Rocamora Pdf

The fashion media is in the midst of deep social and technological change. Including a broad range of case studies, from fashion plates to fashion films, and from fashion magazines to fashion blogs, this ground-breaking book provides an up-to-date examination of the role and significance of this field. Winner of the PCA/ACA Ray and Pat Browne Award for Best Edited Collection, Fashion Media includes chapters written by international scholars covering topics from historic magazine cultures and contemporary digital innovations to art and film, exploring themes such as gender, ethnicity, design, taste and authorship. Highlighting the complexity of processes that bind design, design, technology, society and identity together, Fashion Media will be of be essential reading for students of fashion studies, cultural studies, visual culture studies, design history, communications and art and design practice and theory.

Design Create Sell

Alison Lewy

Author : Alison Lewy
Publisher : Harriman House Limited
Page : 148 pages
File Size : 47,8 Mb
Release : 2012-09-30
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781908003508

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Design Create Sell by Alison Lewy Pdf

Making the dream a reality... The fashion business is an exciting and diverse industry to be involved with and the number of people starting up fashion related businesses is increasing every year. These new entrepreneurs are coming from many different backgrounds including design graduates looking to start their own label, designers working for other companies that have decided its time to be their own boss, and those wanting to utilise their transferable skills to set up a business that can fit around their family commitments.There are also the innovators that have invented or identified a new product they want to launch. This essential guide will give readers an overview of the fashion industry and what makes it tick. It will guide them through the issues they need to think about before they start and take them through the key steps involved in setting up a new business. Readers will learn how to conduct the research needed for their business plan and get practical guidance on building your brand, getting your product made, marketing and PR and how and where to sell products. This comprehensive book will inspire fashion lovers to turn their dream into a reality.

The Fashion Designer Survival Guide

Mary Gehlhar

Author : Mary Gehlhar
Publisher : Simon and Schuster
Page : 314 pages
File Size : 55,5 Mb
Release : 2021-01-05
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781506265612

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The Fashion Designer Survival Guide by Mary Gehlhar Pdf

“Mary Gehlhar’s third edition of her seminal Fashion Designer Survival Guide is the definitive how-to for navigating the fashion industry, post-pandemic. Mary’s trailblazing book illuminates and inspires. She is a fashion treasure and this new edition is a rare gem.” Tim Gunn “The Fashion Designer Survival Guide is packed with essential knowledge and advice from industry experts and experienced designers to set you on the right path. These insights will give you the solid foundation to create a plan and make smart decisions…” Christian Siriano In this updated and expanded edition of The Fashion Designer Survival Guide, Mary Gehlhar, industry authority and consultant to hundreds of fashion design entrepreneurs, offers behind-the-scenes insight and essential information to launch and grow your own fashion label. You’ll hear from experts in social media, financing, and sales, along with advice from dozens of designers on solutions to their biggest challenges and their keys to success. A new section of full color photos from 25 independent designers bring the concepts to life. In this must-have guide, Gehlhar reveals essential information on: Creating a viable business plan Social media strategies to grow your customer base Maximizing online sales to get your designs directly into customers’ closets Integrating sustainability in your sourcing and manufacturing Collaborating with influencers, stylists and brands to expand your audience Landing the right financing for your type of business Establishing wholesale partnerships with the best retail stores Navigating the pitfalls of production both at home and abroad

Fashioneast

Advertising, Sex, and Post-Socialism by Elza Ibroscheva Pdf

FashionEast by Djurdja Bartlett Pdf

Workplace Fables by Mark Price Pdf

The Soviet Century by Karl Schlögel Pdf

Soviet Consumer Culture in the Brezhnev Era by Natalya Chernyshova Pdf

A Companion to Russian Cinema by Birgit Beumers Pdf

Russian Style by Julie A. Cassiday Pdf

Time and Material Culture by Julie Deschepper,Antony Kalashnikov,Federica Rossi Pdf

Seasoned Socialism by Anastasia Lakhtikova,Angela Brintlinger,Irina Glushchenko Pdf

The Soviet Sixties by Robert Hornsby Pdf

Dress History of Korea by Kyunghee Pyun,Minjee Kim Pdf

Fashion Meets Socialism by Jukka Gronow,Sergey Zhuravlev Pdf

Fashion Media by Djurdja Bartlett,Shaun Cole,Agnès Rocamora Pdf

Design Create Sell by Alison Lewy Pdf

The Fashion Designer Survival Guide by Mary Gehlhar Pdf

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