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Author : Thomas Hiram Holding
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 196 pages
File Size : 50,8 Mb
Release : 1997
Category : Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN : IND:30000092822760
The facsimile of a manual with patterns, cutting and sewing instructions for jackets, skirts, coats, capes, riding and cycling clothes. Also includes braiding designs for trim and underwear.
Author : Christine Bayles Kortsch
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 212 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 2016-05-13
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781317148005
In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Brontë, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.
Author : Christine Bayles Kortsch
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 227 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2016-05-13
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781317147992
In her immensely readable and richly documented book, Christine Bayles Kortsch asks us to shift our understanding of late Victorian literary culture by examining its inextricable relationship with the material culture of dress and sewing. Even as the Education Acts of 1870, 1880, and 1891 extended the privilege of print literacy to greater numbers of the populace, stitching samplers continued to be a way of acculturating girls in both print literacy and what Kortsch terms "dress culture." Kortsch explores nineteenth-century women's education, sewing and needlework, mainstream fashion, alternative dress movements, working-class labor in the textile industry, and forms of social activism, showing how dual literacy in dress and print cultures linked women writers with their readers. Focusing on Victorian novels written between 1870 and 1900, Kortsch examines fiction by writers such as Olive Schreiner, Ella Hepworth Dixon, Margaret Oliphant, Sarah Grand, and Gertrude Dix, with attention to influential predecessors like Elizabeth Gaskell, Charlotte Brontë, and George Eliot. Periodicals, with their juxtaposition of journalism, fiction, and articles on dress and sewing are particularly fertile sites for exploring the close linkages between print and dress cultures. Informed by her examinations of costume collections in British and American museums, Kortsch's book broadens our view of New Woman fiction and its relationship both to dress culture and to contemporary women's fiction.
Author : Cassidy Percoco
Publisher : Batsford Books
Page : 319 pages
File Size : 41,9 Mb
Release : 2015-09-17
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781849943512
The distinctive style of the Regency period is a source of endless fascination for fashion academics and historians, living historians, re-enactors and costume designers for stage and screen. Author and fashion historian Cassidy Percoco has delved into little-known museum hoards to create a stunning collection of 26 garments, many with clear provenance tied to a specific location, which have never before been published and never – or very rarely – displayed. Most of the garments have an aspect in their construction that has not been previously documented, from a style of skirt trim to the method of gown closure. This practical guide begins with a general history of the early 19th-century women's dress. This is followed by 26 patterns of gowns, spencers, chemises, and corsets, each with an illustration of the finished piece and description of its construction. This must-have guide is an essential reference for anyone interested in the fashions or the history of the period, or for anyone wishing to recreate their own beautiful Regency clothing.
Author : Kristina Harris
Publisher : Courier Corporation
Page : 144 pages
File Size : 51,9 Mb
Release : 2013-04-22
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
ISBN : 9780486320175
Vintage guide offered turn-of-the-century seamstresses clear instructions for altering patterns and creating shirt-blouses, skirts, wedding gowns, coats, maternity wear, children's clothing, and other apparel.
Author : Clare Rose
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 278 pages
File Size : 53,7 Mb
Release : 2016-12-05
Category : History
ISBN : 9781351920599
There has been a great deal of recent interest in masculine clothing, examining both its production and consumption, and the ways in which it was used to create individual identities and to build businesses, from 1850 onwards. Drawing upon a wide range of sources this book studies the interaction between producers and consumers at a key period in the development of the ready-made clothing industry. It also shows that many innovations in advertising clothing, usually considered to have been developed in America, had earlier British precedents. To counter the lack of documentary evidence that has hitherto hampered research into the dress practices of non-elite groups, this book utilises thousands of unpublished visual documents. These include hundreds of manufacturers' designs, which underline an unexpected degree of investment by manufacturers in boys' clothing, and which was matched by heavy investment in advertising, with thousands of images of boys' clothing for shop catalogues in the Stationers' Hall copyright archive. Another key source is the archives of Dr Barnardo's Homes. This extraordinary collection contains over 15,000 documented photographs of boys entering between 1875 and 1900, allowing us to look beyond official polarization of 'raggedness' and 'respectability' used by charities and social reformers of all stripes and to establish the clothing that was actually worn by a large sample of boys. A close analysis of 1,800 images reveals that even when families were impoverished, they strove to present their boys in ways that reflected their position in the family group and in society. By drawing on these visual sources, and linking the design and retailing of boys' clothing with social, cultural and economic issues, this book shows that an understanding of the production and consumption of the boys clothing is central to debates on the growth of the consumer society, the development of mass-market fashion, and concepts of childhood and masculinity.
Author : Rosemary Ingham,Liz Covey
Publisher : Waveland Press
Page : 551 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2024-03-11
Category : Performing Arts
ISBN : 9781478652823
Since its first publication in 1980, The Costume Technician's Handbook has established itself as an indispensable resource in classrooms and costume shops. Ingham and Covey draw on decades of hands-on experience to provide the most complete guide to developing costumes that are personally distinctive and artistically expressive. No other book covers the same breadth of necessary topics for every aspect of costuming, from the basics of setting up a costume shop to managing one and everything in between.
Author : Charles Hecklinger,Kristina Seleshanko
Publisher : Courier Corporation
Page : 114 pages
File Size : 53,7 Mb
Release : 2006-01-01
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
ISBN : 9780486451053
With opulent fashions the ultimate in style, women of the late Victorian era wore a great deal of silks and satins. Daring combinations of bright colors were in. So were large hats, profusely trimmed. But by the end of the nineteenth century, ladies' tastes in fashion were changing, along with female lifestyles. Larger numbers of women were not only working outside the home, they were also playing tennis and golf, and riding bicycles and horses. All these activities called for a definite change in female fashions. Women came to rely on tailored suits with full skirts and fitted jackets over simple blouses. Riding habits called for a long, draped skirt worn over a pair of trousers. With the dawn of the twentieth century, professional tailors turned to the comprehensive 1895 "Keystone" guide to create office outfits, riding pants, shirtwaists, and other garments. Filled with more than eighty patterns, the handy resource provided tailors with suggestions for fabric choices as well as instructions for the proper measurement, fitting, cutting, and sewing of such items as a bolero jacket, a shirtwaist with yoke, a single-breasted vest, and riding breeches. Supplemented with a selection of newly captioned illustrations from The Delineator magazine, this volume will be a valuable reference for costume designers and fashion historians, and a fascinating window on the past for nostalgia enthusiasts.
Author : Chiara Battisti
Publisher : Frank & Timme GmbH
Page : 171 pages
File Size : 46,6 Mb
Release : 2023-05-12
Category : Language Arts & Disciplines
ISBN : 9783732909599
Tailoring Identities in Victorian Literature is a compelling exploration of the representation of clothing in Victorian literature. The author argues that the study of fashion and clothing can contribute to a deeper understanding of literary texts and their contexts. While fashion has often been associated with frivolity, this volume sheds light on the novel possibilities that can arise from the intersection of literary analysis with fashion theory, revealing fashion as a system of meaning that reflects deep social and cultural transformations, and offering new and innovative directions in research and literary analysis. Tailoring Identities in Victorian Literature draws on the conceptual framework of fashion theory to investigate novels in which the fashion system organises the signs of the dressed body, almost as if forging its own language. Focusing on the Victorian period, pivotal period in fashion history, the volume offers a rich and nuanced account of the complex relationship between clothing, literature, and identity, in nineteenth-century literature.
Author : Lucy Johnston,Marion Kite,Helen Persson
Publisher : Victoria & Albert Museum
Page : 232 pages
File Size : 50,6 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : 1800-1899
ISBN : UCSC:32106018490422
A glorious companion volume to Historical Fashion in Detail- The 17th and 18th Centuries and Modern Fashion in Detail, this book captures the opulence and variety of nineteenth-century fashion through an authoritative text, exquisite colour photography and line drawings of the complete garments. From the delicate embroidery on neoclassical gowns to the vibrant colours of crinolines and the elegant tailoring of men's coats, the richness of the period is revealed in breathtaking detail. The garments showcased here, drawn from the V&A Museum's world famous collection, were at the height of fashion in their time. They display a remarkable range of colours, materials and construction details- from the intricate boning on women's corsets to the patterned silk of men's waistcoats. Seen in close-up for the first time and further illuminated by detailed commentary and line drawings that show the ingenuity of the underlying construction, these carefully chosen garments illustrate some of the major themes of nineteenth-century dress.
Author : Chas Hecklinger
Publisher : Courier Dover Publications
Page : 114 pages
File Size : 47,6 Mb
Release : 2012-11-01
Category : Antiques & Collectibles
ISBN : 9780486169989
As the 20th century dawned, women began to abandon frilly fashions for sharply tailored suits. Professional tailors of the time turned to this comprehensive resource to create office outfits, riding pants, blouses, and other garments. Filled with more than 80 patterns, it's an invaluable reference for costume designers and fashion historians. 92 black-and-white illustrations.
Author : Sarah A. Chrisman
Publisher : Skyhorse
Page : 440 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 2015-11-03
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9781510700734
Part memoir, part micro-history, this is an exploration of the present through the lens of the past. We all know that the best way to study a foreign language is to go to a country where it's spoken, but can the same immersion method be applied to history? How do interactions with antique objects influence perceptions of the modern world? From Victorian beauty regimes to nineteenth-century bicycles, custard recipes to taxidermy experiments, oil lamps to an ice box, Sarah and Gabriel Chrisman decided to explore nineteenth-century culture and technologies from the inside out. Even the deepest aspects of their lives became affected, and the more immersed they became in the late Victorian era, the more aware they grew of its legacies permeating the twenty-first century. Most of us have dreamed of time travel, but what if that dream could come true? Certain universal constants remain steady for all people regardless of time or place. No matter where, when, or who we are, humans share similar passions and fears, joys and triumphs. In her first book, Victorian Secrets, Chrisman recalled the first year she spent wearing a Victorian corset 24/7. In This Victorian Life, Chrisman picks up where Secrets left off and documents her complete shift into living as though she were in the nineteenth century.
Author : Kat Jungnickel
Publisher : MIT Press
Page : 337 pages
File Size : 41,7 Mb
Release : 2020-02-25
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9781912685431
An illustrated history of the evolution of British women's cycle wear. The bicycle in Victorian Britain is often celebrated as a vehicle of women's liberation. Less noted is another critical technology with which women forged new and mobile public lives—cycle wear. This illustrated account of women's cycle wear from Goldsmiths Press brings together Victorian engineering and radical feminist invention to supply a missing chapter in the history of feminism. Despite its benefits, cycling was a material and ideological minefield for women. Conventional fashions were unworkable, with skirts catching in wheels and tangling in pedals. Yet wearing “rational” cycle wear could provoke verbal and sometimes physical abuse from those threatened by newly mobile women. Seeking a solution, pioneering women not only imagined, made, and wore radical new forms of cycle wear but also patented their inventive designs. The most remarkable of these were convertible costumes that enabled wearers to transform ordinary clothing into cycle wear. Drawing on in-depth archival research and inventive practice, Kat Jungnickel brings to life in rich detail the little-known stories of six inventors of the 1890s. Alice Bygrave, a dressmaker of Brixton, registered four patents for a skirt with a dual pulley system built into its seams. Julia Gill, a court dressmaker of Haverstock Hill, patented a skirt that drew material up the waist using a mechanism of rings or eyelets. Mary and Sarah Pease, sisters from York, patented a skirt that could be quickly converted into a fashionable high-collar cape. Henrietta Müller, a women's rights activist of Maidenhead, patented a three-part cycling suit with a concealed system of loops and buttons to elevate the skirt. And Mary Ann Ward, a gentlewoman of Bristol, patented the “Hyde Park Safety Skirt,” which gathered fabric at intervals using a series of side buttons on the skirt. Their unique contributions to cycling's past continue to shape urban life for contemporary mobile women.
Author : Jason Maclochlainn
Publisher : St. Martin's Griffin
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 51,7 Mb
Release : 2011-03-15
Category : Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN : 0312642334
This unique book is a wide-ranging introduction to the world of Victorian tailoring, including techniques, materials, and patterns. The author, an expert in the field, has dipped into rare 19th-century tailoring sourcebooks and re-created the authentic techniques for today's budding tailor. An introductory section includes: --A glimpse into the 19th-century tailor's shop and the people who worked there --How men's fashion subtly evolved through the decades, with illustrations and Victorian photographs --Tools of the trade, and how they were used--and which ones are still worth using today --Which cloths to use for an authentic Victorian feel, and where to obtain them --The fundamental techniques every tailor should know, from how to sit in the traditional cross-legged manner to the full range of stitches used in the Victorian era. The book then moves on to give detailed instructions on how to draft and cut your own patterns to fit your client exactly, and gives 18 patterns from different decdes, including capes, waistcoats, trousers, frock coats, lounge coats, and even a shooting jacket and breeches for the Victorian sportsman. These are followed by clear and concise step-by-step directions for making up your finished garments, illustrated with authentic period fashion plates showing the essential wardrobe of a Victorian gentleman, this book will appeal to all costume designers, dressmakers, living historians, and those with an interest in creating these beautiful handmade garments, and contains everything you need to create authentic menswear from the period.
Author : Cheryl Buckley,Hazel Clark
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 328 pages
File Size : 43,6 Mb
Release : 2017-02-09
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781474273121
Taking cultural theorist Michel de Certeau's notion of 'the everyday' as a critical starting point, this book considers how fashion shapes and is shaped by everyday life. Looking historically for the imprint of fashion within everyday routines such as going to work or shopping, or in leisure activities like dancing, the book identifies the 'fashion system of the ordinary', in which clothing has a distinct role in the making of self and identity. Exploring the period from 1890 to 2010, the study is located in London and New York, cities that emerged as as socially, ethnically and culturally diverse, as well as increasingly fashionable. The book re-focuses fashion discourse away from well-trodden, power-laden dynamics, towards a re-evaluation of time, memory, and above all history, and their relationship to fashion and everyday life. The importance of place and space - and issues of gender, race and social class - provides the broader framework, revealing fashion as both routine and exceptional, and as an increasingly significant part of urban life. By focusing on key themes such as clothing the city, what is worn on the streets, the imagining and performing of multiple identities by dressing up and down, going out, and showing off, Fashion and Everyday Life makes a unique contribution to the literature of fashion studies, fashion history, cultural studies, and beyond.