London Couture And The Making Of A Fashion Centre

Author : Michelle Jones
Publisher : MIT Press
Page : 319 pages
File Size : 44,6 Mb
Release : 2022-04-12
Category : History
ISBN : 9780262046572

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London Couture and the Making of a Fashion Centre by Michelle Jones Pdf

How design collaboration, networks, and narratives contributed to the establishment of a recognized English couture industry in the 1930s and 1940s. In the 1930s and 1940s, English fashion houses, spurred by economic and wartime crises, put London on the map as a major fashion city. In this book, Michelle Jones examines the creation of a London-based couture industry during these years, exploring how designer collaboration and the construction of specific networks and narratives supported and shaped the English fashion economy. Haute couture—the practice of creative made-to-measure womenswear—was widely regarded as inherently French. Jones shows how an English version emerged during a period of economic turbulence, when a group of designers banded together in a collective effort to shift power within the international fashion system. Jones considers the establishment of this form of English design practice, analyzing the commercial, social, and political factors that shaped the professional identity of the London couturiers. She focuses on collaborative activity that supported this form of elite, craft-based fashion production—from the prewar efforts of the Fashion Group of Great Britain to the wartime establishment of the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers, modeled loosely after French fashion’s governing body, the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne. It was these collective efforts by couturiers that established and sustained London’s place as an internationally recognized center for creative fashion.

Author : Liz Tregenza
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 257 pages
File Size : 44,8 Mb
Release : 2023-02-23
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781350245884

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Wholesale Couture by Liz Tregenza Pdf

The first book to consider the subject, Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930-70 seeks to revise the notion that wholesale couturiers were simply copyists and demonstrate the complexities of their design processes and business strategies. This term has fallen out of usage; however, it was used to describe the pinnacle of the British ready-to-wear fashion industry between the 1930s and 1960s. Companies within this sector have typically been recognised as creators of high-quality copies of French haute couture, using ready-to-wear techniques. Liz Tregenza traces wholesale couture garments from concept to usage, considering design, manufacture, branding, promotion, retail and export. She looks beyond the garments produced and investigates the people behind these firms, consequently demonstrating the significant role that largely Jewish immigrants played in the development and success of this industry. The book also considers the wider social and economic factors that affected manufacturers and consumers; the effect of austerity, rationing and the Utility scheme, and the pressing need for wholesale couturiers to export their products internationally. It demonstrates that 1946 was a critical year for re-building and re-imagining the London fashion industry and that wholesale couturiers were at the centre of these developments. Furthermore, it reveals the impact of changing consumer purchasing power, including the burgeoning youth market, for fashion manufacturers. Offering a new perspective on British fashion history, Wholesale Couture demonstrates that these couturiers were vital in cementing London's status as a ready-to-wear fashion centre.

Author : Edwina Ehrman,Amy De La Haye
Publisher : Victoria & Albert Museum
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 46,6 Mb
Release : 2015-10-20
Category : Design
ISBN : 1851778500

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London Couture by Edwina Ehrman,Amy De La Haye Pdf

An academically rigorous and beautiful new publication on a crucial chapter in fashion history, London Couture is the first book to examine, in detail, the luxurious garments produced by the rarefied London couture industry - from lavish ballgowns to sharply tailored suits and spectacular court dress - as well as the designers who conceived them, their clients and the prestigious publications that disseminated and promoted the 'London Look' to an international audience. Expert authors from around the world have delved into museum collections, as well as the archives of prestigious designers, textile suppliers and fashionable journals, to bring together this pioneering study of the London couture houses of the early to mid-twentieth century, renowned for their superb craftsmanship and attention to detail. The full breadth of London's offering is examined, from royal favourite Norman Hartnell to pioneer Charles James, and prestigious houses such as Lucile, Worth and Hardy Amies. The ancillary dressmaking trades in London are also considered, as are the international markets for London couture, and the impact of royal dress on high-end fashion. A wealth of visual material supports the extensive, original research - from beautiful features by celebrated photographer Norman Parkinson to the elegant illustrations of Francis Marshall. Previously unseen garments are illustrated throughout the book, alongside historical photography that documents the houses of the great designers, their favoured fabrics and their most glamorous clients, including Queen Elizabeth II, Margot Fonteyn, and many stars of stage and screen.

Author : Gavin Waddell
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
Page : 224 pages
File Size : 55,5 Mb
Release : 2013-09-03
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781118814994

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How Fashion Works by Gavin Waddell Pdf

Fashion deals with a world of illusion on the one hand and a hard-bitten, multifaceted and multi-billion pound industry on the other. This stimulating book clarifies how fashion operates on all its levels: the mystery of haute couture is explained, the complexities of ready to wear are simplified, and the power of mass production assessed and evaluated. Fashion terms, their use and meaning are explained in plain words and the complicated stages of design, manufacture and distribution are described in detail. Also included are sections on bespoke tailoring, wholesale menswear, dressmaking, millinery and accessories, the fashion calendar and short biographies on the most influential designers. Every follower of fashion, whether at college or in big business, will welcome the information presented in this book.

Author : Valerie Steele
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 216 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 2019-09-05
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350102965

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Paris, Capital of Fashion by Valerie Steele Pdf

Paris, Capital of Fashion accompanies a major exhibition at The Museum at FIT, New York's only museum dedicated solely to the art of fashion. This lavishly-illustrated book is edited by MFIT's director and chief curator, Valerie Steele, also the author of the acclaimed Paris Fashion: A Cultural History. This new book opens with an important essay on how and why Paris became famous as the international “capital of fashion.” Steele traces how the mythic “aura” of Paris fashion was constructed over generations, as the splendour of the court at Versailles came to be echoed by the spectacle of the haute couture. Yet Paris has faced repeated challenges from other fashion capitals, especially London, Milan, and New York. Essays by Christopher Breward, David Gilbert, Grazia d'Annunzio, and Antonia Finnane place Paris within a broader global narrative, while Sophie Kurkdjian investigates the cultural value of the Parisian couture, and Agnès Rocomora explores the online imagery of the chic Parisienne. As The New Yorker recently put it, Paris is “the most glamorous and competitive of the world's fashion capitals.” No other city has been branded “Fashion” as Paris has. By opening the study of Paris fashion to new approaches, this book explains why Paris still retains its position as the world's undisputed fashion capital.

Author : Felix Fuhg
Publisher : Springer Nature
Page : 444 pages
File Size : 40,5 Mb
Release : 2021-05-20
Category : History
ISBN : 9783030689681

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London’s Working-Class Youth and the Making of Post-Victorian Britain, 1958–1971 by Felix Fuhg Pdf

This book examines the emergence of modern working-class youth culture through the perspective of an urban history of post-war Britain, with a particular focus on the influence of young people and their culture on Britain’s self-image as a country emerging from the constraints of its post-Victorian, imperial past. Each section of the book – Society, City, Pop, and Space – considers in detail the ways in which working-class youth culture corresponded with a fast-changing metropolitan and urban society in the years following the decline of the British Empire. Was teenage culture rooted in the urban experience and the transformation of working-class neighbourhoods? Did youth subcultures emerge simply as a reaction to Britain's changing racial demographic? To what extent did leisure venues and institutions function as laboratories for a developing British pop culture, which ultimately helped Britain re-establish its prominence on the world stage? These questions and more are answered in this book.

Author : Christopher Breward
Publisher : Oxford University Press
Page : 273 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2003-04-24
Category : Art
ISBN : 9780192840301

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Fashion by Christopher Breward Pdf

An exploration of the world of fashion covers history, production, design, innovation, advertising, psychology, geography, and influence.

Author : Christopher Breward,Edwina Ehrman,Caroline Evans,Caroline Edwards
Publisher : Yale University Press
Page : 192 pages
File Size : 46,5 Mb
Release : 2004-01-01
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780300103991

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The London Look by Christopher Breward,Edwina Ehrman,Caroline Evans,Caroline Edwards Pdf

Histoire de la mode à Londres, ses créateurs, des maisons de couture, ses tendandes, de 1800 à nos jours, de la rue aux podiums.

Author : Bonnie English,Nazanin Hedayat Munroe
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 296 pages
File Size : 47,8 Mb
Release : 2022-01-13
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350150904

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A Cultural History of Western Fashion by Bonnie English,Nazanin Hedayat Munroe Pdf

Just as the clothes we wear can communicate our personality and how we want to be perceived, so fashion can reflect the politics and preoccupations of the society that produced it. A Cultural History of Western Fashion guides you through the relationships between haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture, big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and social media. Exploring fashion's interdisciplinary nature, English and Munroe also highlight the parallel evolution of clothing design and the other visual arts over the last 150 years. This new edition includes expanded coverage of the build up to the First World War and brings this classic text up to date. There is also a new chapter on smart textiles and technology, exploring the work of Hussein Chalayan and Iris Van Herpen among others, and expanded coverage of the role of sustainability in the contemporary fashion industry, including biosynthetic textile production and Stella McCartney's use of vegan leather.

Author : Susan Yelavich,Barbara Adams
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 42,7 Mb
Release : 2014-09-25
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781472574725

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Design as Future-Making by Susan Yelavich,Barbara Adams Pdf

Design as Future-Making brings together leading international designers, scholars, and critics to address ways in which design is shaping the future. The contributors share an understanding of design as a practice that, with its focus on innovation and newness, is a natural ally of futurity. Ultimately, the choices made by designers are understood here as choices about the kind of world we want to live in. Design as Future-Making locates design in a space of creative and critical reflection, examining the expanding nature of practice in fields such as biomedicine, sustainability, digital crafting, fashion, architecture, urbanism, and design activism. The authors contextualize design and its affects within issues of social justice, environmental health, political agency, education, and the right to pleasure and play. Collectively, they make the case that, as an integrated mode of thought and action, design is intrinsically social and deeply political.

Author : Liz Tregenza
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 257 pages
File Size : 41,8 Mb
Release : 2023-02-23
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781350245877

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Wholesale Couture by Liz Tregenza Pdf

The first book to consider the subject, Wholesale Couture: London and Beyond, 1930-70 seeks to revise the notion that wholesale couturiers were simply copyists and demonstrate the complexities of their design processes and business strategies. This term has fallen out of usage; however, it was used to describe the pinnacle of the British ready-to-wear fashion industry between the 1930s and 1960s. Companies within this sector have typically been recognised as creators of high-quality copies of French haute couture, using ready-to-wear techniques. Liz Tregenza traces wholesale couture garments from concept to usage, considering design, manufacture, branding, promotion, retail and export. She looks beyond the garments produced and investigates the people behind these firms, consequently demonstrating the significant role that largely Jewish immigrants played in the development and success of this industry. The book also considers the wider social and economic factors that affected manufacturers and consumers; the effect of austerity, rationing and the Utility scheme, and the pressing need for wholesale couturiers to export their products internationally. It demonstrates that 1946 was a critical year for re-building and re-imagining the London fashion industry and that wholesale couturiers were at the centre of these developments. Furthermore, it reveals the impact of changing consumer purchasing power, including the burgeoning youth market, for fashion manufacturers. Offering a new perspective on British fashion history, Wholesale Couture demonstrates that these couturiers were vital in cementing London's status as a ready-to-wear fashion centre.

Author : Jess Berry
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 232 pages
File Size : 45,9 Mb
Release : 2018-07-12
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474283380

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House of Fashion by Jess Berry Pdf

Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.

Author : Jay Diamond,Ellen Diamond
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing USA
Page : 722 pages
File Size : 43,6 Mb
Release : 2014-12-24
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781501308956

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The World of Fashion by Jay Diamond,Ellen Diamond Pdf

The World of Fashion is the essential source for students who want to understand the fashion industry. Starting with an introduction to the history of fashion and its evolving role within the global marketplace, each chapter focuses on an aspect of the industry, from consumer behavior and fashion trends to textiles, product development, manufacturing, and merchandising. Each chapter has been fully updated to include new information and updated artwork. Fashion history has been updated to include current events and an added discussion of portfolio preparation provides complete coverage of careers in fashion. Unique chapters on the multicultural consumer and outsourcing fashion design, production, and management plus coverage of important industry trends such as social responsibility, eco-consciousness, social networking reflect the current state of the fashion industry.

Author : Frances Corner
Publisher : Thames & Hudson
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 2014-06-17
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9780500772096

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Why Fashion Matters by Frances Corner Pdf

An illuminating introduction to the expanding influence of fashion from the perspectives of design, technology, sustainability, and business Fashion matters for the economy, to society, and to each of us personally. Faster than anything else, what we wear tells the story of who we are—or who we want to be. It is the most immediate form of self-expression. Yet even as fashion touches the lives of each and every one of us, its influence and the vast creative industry that it supports can seem mysterious to outsiders. In Why Fashion Matters Frances Corner, Head of London College of Fashion, guides readers into the dizzying world of this rapidly expanding, increasingly global, always exciting industry. In provocative and intriguing entries, Corner teases out the glorious intricacies and contradictions of an industry that simultaneously values technology and craft; timeless style and fast fashion; the bespoke and the mass-market; consumption and sustainability; cold, hard numbers; and creative expression. From “Shop 'til We Drop” to “The White Shirt” to “The One Trillion Dollar Business” each entry offers a unique avenue into fashion and its impact, both positive and negative, on lives around the globe.

Author : Claire Wilcox
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 224 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 2008
Category : Fashion design
ISBN : OCLC:892495775

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The Golden Age of Couture by Claire Wilcox Pdf