Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction

Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 514 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 1996
Category : Science
ISBN : 9810221096

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Ocean Surface Waves by Stanislaw R. Massel Pdf

This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

Author : Massel Stanislaw Ryszard
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 800 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2017-09-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789813228399

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Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (Third Edition) by Massel Stanislaw Ryszard Pdf

This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones. Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others. All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included. The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites. In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries. The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles. Contents: IntroductionInteraction of Surface Waves and WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterRogue WavesWave Motion Starting from Rest: TsunamiWave Motion Starting from Rest: Other ExamplesWaves at Coral Reefs and IslandsWaves in Vegetated CoastsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords: Ocean Wave Physics;Wave Mathematical Principles;Spectral Analysis of Waves;Statistics of Observed Waves;Wave Numerical Modelling;Waves in Vegetated Coasts;Extreme WavesReview: Key Features: The book presents a comprehensive, broad-scope and modern one-volume study of the ocean surface wavesAll subjects are presented with the aim of demonstrating the close link between ocean physics and wave predictions, as well as ocean engineeringThe book includes recent achievements published in languages other than English, such as Russian and Polish, with very extensive list of references encompassing more than 900 titles

Author : Stanisław R Massel
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 692 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 2013-01-30
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789814460132

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Ocean Surface Waves by Stanisław R Massel Pdf

The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests. In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index. Contents:IntroductionInteraction of Wind and Ocean WavesSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterFreak WavesTsunamiWaves at Islands and Coral ReefsWaves in Mangrove ForestsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-Term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords:Surface Waves;Freak Waves;Tsunami;Deep Sea Dynamics;Coastal Water Dynamics;Coastal Engineering;Coral Reef Hydrodynamics;Flow in Mangrove Forest;Circulation in Porous Media;Stochastic Processes Fundamentals;Data Processing;Simulation TechniquesKey Features:In comparison with the first book edition, this second edition contains a substantial amount of new material on the topics contemporary discussed within the marine communityAll material is treated in an uniform way based on the modern stochastic approachMany practical examples, interesting for oceanographers and marine engineers, illustrate the theoretical and numerical results

Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 776 pages
File Size : 48,6 Mb
Release : 2017
Category : SCIENCE
ISBN : 9813228385

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Ocean Surface Waves by Stanislaw R. Massel Pdf

Author : Stanisław R Massel
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 508 pages
File Size : 51,8 Mb
Release : 1996-02-12
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789814502283

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Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction by Stanisław R Massel Pdf

This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to. Contents:IntroductionGeneration of Waves by WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesPrediction of Ocean Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Ocean Waves in Shallow WaterWaves at Islands and Coral ReefsLong-Term Statistics for Ocean Surface WavesMeasurement, Simulation and Data ProcessingReferences Readership: Researchers and graduate students in physical oceanography, ocean and coastal engineering. keywords:Ocean Waves;Spectral Analysis;Statistical Analysis;Stochastic Processes;Measurement Techniques;Data Processing;Remote Sensing Techniques;Wave Modelling;Similarity Laws;Ocean Wave Spectra;Nonlinear Wave Analysis;Long-Term Statistics “The range of topics and applications is far more extensive; there is much more to tie together. The treatment is less discursive and somewhat more demanding, but always clear to a technically-trained reader … should be available to all physical and dynamical oceanographers interested in applications, and should be close at hand to graduate students and practitioners of ocean and coastal engineering.” Applied Mechanics Reviews

Author : Chiang C Mei,Michael Aharon Stiassnie,Dick K-p Yue
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
Page : 1240 pages
File Size : 44,5 Mb
Release : 2018-03-15
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789813147201

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Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes) by Chiang C Mei,Michael Aharon Stiassnie,Dick K-p Yue Pdf

This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Author : Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 540 pages
File Size : 54,6 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : Nonlinear waves
ISBN : 9789812561565

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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Linear aspects by Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue Pdf

Presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. It is intended for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves.

Author : Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 48,7 Mb
Release : 2018
Category : Ocean waves
ISBN : 9813147172

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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves by Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue Pdf

This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Author : The SWAMP Group
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 248 pages
File Size : 44,9 Mb
Release : 2013-11-22
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781475760552

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Ocean Wave Modeling by The SWAMP Group Pdf

Early in 1979, a group of wave researchers proposed a wave model inter comparison study to clarify the interrelations existing among the various wave models which have been developed in past years for real-time wave forecasting, wave statistics compilations, or hindcast case studies. The idea was immediately welcomed by the wave modeling community, and, finally, nine wave modeling groups from the United States, Japan, and Europe participated in the exercise. The principal results of this work are presented here jointly by the Sea Wave Modeling Project (swAMP) Group (the members of which are listed in Appendix A). Descriptions of the models used in the study are given in Part II of this volume. A more complete documentation of the entire set of numerical experiments is given in Part 2 of the Sea Wave Modeling Project (SWAMP group, 1982). The main purpose of the intercomparison study was to test our present understanding of the physics of . wind-generated surface waves from the viewpoint of wave modeling. Specifically, we wished to clarify the basic interdependence between understanding the physics of surface waves, repre senting the physics numerically, and predicting quantitatively the detailed space-time evolution of a two-dimensional surface wave spectrum for a given wind field. It was not our intent to carry out a model competition. In this sense there were no winners or losers: all models could claim specific strong points, and all displayed weaknesses in some areas.

Author : Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 595 pages
File Size : 53,6 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : Nonlinear waves
ISBN : 9789812561589

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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves: Nonlinear aspects by Chiang C. Mei,Michael Stiassnie,Dick K.-P. Yue Pdf

This book is an expanded version of The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are applied, such as singular perturbations. In this expanded edition, two chapters on recent developments have been added: one is on multiple scattering by periodic or random bathymetry, and the other is on Zakharov's theory of broad spectrum wave fields. New sections include topics on infragravity waves, upstream solitons, Venice storm gates, etc. In addition, there are many new exercises. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Author : Alexander Babanin
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 479 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2011-05-19
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781139502726

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Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves by Alexander Babanin Pdf

Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

Author : Alexander V. Babanin
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 480 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2011
Category : Ocean waves
ISBN : 1107226619

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Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves by Alexander V. Babanin Pdf

Outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking for researchers, modellers, engineers and graduate students in oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

Author : Blair Kinsman
Publisher : Courier Corporation
Page : 706 pages
File Size : 55,8 Mb
Release : 1984-01-01
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780486646527

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Wind Waves by Blair Kinsman Pdf

In this classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory examines the data requirements and details of the power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Although the discussions center on waves, once the techniques are understood, they can be applied to many other areas. After outlining the nature of waves and wave processes and their methods of measurement and classification, the author provides a detailed exploration that relies heavily on mathematical models. Topics include perturbations of irrotational motion, energy considerations, wave generations by wind, and much more. The text is enhanced and clarified by 270 photos, figures, and tables. A helpful bibliography and indexes conclude this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library.

Author : Chiang C. Mei
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 770 pages
File Size : 50,8 Mb
Release : 1989
Category : Science
ISBN : 9971507897

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The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves by Chiang C. Mei Pdf

The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.

Author : Chiang C. Mei
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 1240 pages
File Size : 53,9 Mb
Release : 2017
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 9813147199

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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (in 2 Volumes). by Chiang C. Mei Pdf