Ocean Surface Waves Their Physics And Prediction Third Edition

Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 514 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 1996
Category : Science
ISBN : 9810221096

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Ocean Surface Waves by Stanislaw R. Massel Pdf

This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

Author : Massel Stanislaw Ryszard
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 800 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 2017-09-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789813228399

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Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics And Prediction (Third Edition) by Massel Stanislaw Ryszard Pdf

This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones. Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others. All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included. The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites. In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries. The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles. Contents: IntroductionInteraction of Surface Waves and WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterRogue WavesWave Motion Starting from Rest: TsunamiWave Motion Starting from Rest: Other ExamplesWaves at Coral Reefs and IslandsWaves in Vegetated CoastsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords: Ocean Wave Physics;Wave Mathematical Principles;Spectral Analysis of Waves;Statistics of Observed Waves;Wave Numerical Modelling;Waves in Vegetated Coasts;Extreme WavesReview: Key Features: The book presents a comprehensive, broad-scope and modern one-volume study of the ocean surface wavesAll subjects are presented with the aim of demonstrating the close link between ocean physics and wave predictions, as well as ocean engineeringThe book includes recent achievements published in languages other than English, such as Russian and Polish, with very extensive list of references encompassing more than 900 titles

Author : Stanisław R Massel
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 692 pages
File Size : 51,5 Mb
Release : 2013-01-30
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789814460132

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Ocean Surface Waves by Stanisław R Massel Pdf

The book is an extended and updated edition of the book published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN 9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are discussed from the stochastic point of view. All chapters were completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries which were published since the first edition in 1996. In particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through mangrove forests. In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing, including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and author index. Contents:IntroductionInteraction of Wind and Ocean WavesSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterFreak WavesTsunamiWaves at Islands and Coral ReefsWaves in Mangrove ForestsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-Term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords:Surface Waves;Freak Waves;Tsunami;Deep Sea Dynamics;Coastal Water Dynamics;Coastal Engineering;Coral Reef Hydrodynamics;Flow in Mangrove Forest;Circulation in Porous Media;Stochastic Processes Fundamentals;Data Processing;Simulation TechniquesKey Features:In comparison with the first book edition, this second edition contains a substantial amount of new material on the topics contemporary discussed within the marine communityAll material is treated in an uniform way based on the modern stochastic approachMany practical examples, interesting for oceanographers and marine engineers, illustrate the theoretical and numerical results

Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 776 pages
File Size : 44,9 Mb
Release : 2017
Category : SCIENCE
ISBN : 9813228385

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Ocean Surface Waves by Stanislaw R. Massel Pdf

Author : Chiang C Mei,Michael Aharon Stiassnie,Dick K-p Yue
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
Page : 1240 pages
File Size : 42,5 Mb
Release : 2018-03-15
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789813147201

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Theory And Applications Of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (In 2 Volumes) by Chiang C Mei,Michael Aharon Stiassnie,Dick K-p Yue Pdf

This book set is a revised version of the 2005 edition of Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. It presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. Advanced analytical and numerical techniques are demonstrated. In this revised version, five chapters on recent developments in linear and nonlinear aspects have been added. The first is on detailed analyses in Wave/Structure Interactions. The second is a new section on Waves through a Marine Forest, a topic motivated by its possible relevance to tsunami reduction. The third is on Long Waves in Shallow Water and the fourth is an update on Broad-Banded Nonlinear Surface Waves in the Open Sea to include new findings in this topic. The fifth is an expanded chapter on Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Wave Dynamics to include predictions of nonlinear spectral evolution and rogue wave occurrence and dynamics using large-scale phase-resolved simulations. This revised version also includes recent developments in precorrected-FFT accelerated O(N log N) low- and high-order boundary element methods for the computation of fully nonlinear wave-wave and wave-body interactions.Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (2016) will be invaluable for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves, and theoretical scientists and applied mathematicians wishing to develop new techniques for challenging problems or to apply techniques existing elsewhere.

Author : Chiang C. Mei
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 1240 pages
File Size : 40,8 Mb
Release : 2017
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 9813147199

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Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves (Third Edition) (in 2 Volumes). by Chiang C. Mei Pdf

Author : Takayama Tomotsuka,Katoh Kazumasa,Imamura Fumihiko
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 480 pages
File Size : 40,8 Mb
Release : 2018-03-02
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789813239401

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Tsunami: To Survive From Tsunami (Second Edition) by Takayama Tomotsuka,Katoh Kazumasa,Imamura Fumihiko Pdf

The book is organized into two parts: the first part covers (i) the precious lessons obtained from recent actual tsunami disasters including the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami and 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake Disaster, (ii) fundamental knowledge of tsunami for our survival, and (iii) concludes the lessons learnt and listing measures for tsunami disaster mitigation for saving human lives. The second part presents tsunami from academic perspective in two chapters: one describes tsunami occurrence mechanism and near-shore behavior; the other mentions numerical simulation and forecasting of tsunami. Contents: How Can We Escape a Tsunami?: Examples of Tsunami Disasters Tsunami Disaster Knowledge for Tsunami Survival Prevention and Mitigation of Tsunami Disasters Tsunami Behavior and Forecasting: Occurrence and Amplification of Tsunamis Tsunami Simulations and Forecasting Systems Readership: Undergraduates and graduates interested in tsunamis, tsunami mitigation planners, oceanographers and physicists, especially residents in tsunami prone areas. Keywords: Tsunami;Disaster;Mitigation;Hardware;Software;Hazard MapReview: Key Features: The book aims to provide scientific information and knowledge for survival from tsunami to people who live or may possibly live in the areas prone to tsunami, or travelers who may visit such areas All these chapters are described from the viewpoint of saving human lives through lessons learnt and measures for tsunami disaster mitigation Written by world renowned experts on tsunami

Author : Sundar Vallam,Sannasiraj Sannasi Annamalaisamy
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 364 pages
File Size : 52,9 Mb
Release : 2019-03-20
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789813275928

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Coastal Engineering: Theory And Practice by Sundar Vallam,Sannasiraj Sannasi Annamalaisamy Pdf

This book can potentially serve as a comprehensive textbook for students pursuing this subject either as degree or an elective course. It covers all the fundamental physics behind the different phenomena taking place in the near shore regions and the coast as well as the various methods to estimate its impact. Basic knowledge of water wave mechanics is crucial in understanding the coastal processes taking place in the near shore. The assessment of incident forces due to wind, wave, tide, current etc. is important to evaluate the resultant impact they cause on the shoreline and structures.This book emphasizes the importance of sediment dynamics by analyzing the sediment characteristics, the physics of its motion and movement, factors responsible for the fate of sediments etc. It also highlights the erosion problem which is most prevalent across the sandy coasts, additionally erosion combating methods and techniques are also described with real time field problems and their solutions.A wide range of coastal structures and their design principles are included in this book in order to give the reader a holistic understanding to the readers. This book also includes the design challenges and introduces the reliable modeling tools and techniques, which is very useful for beginners working in this discipline.

Author : David Basco
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 1032 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 2020-07-02
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811206955

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Design Of Coastal Hazard Mitigation Alternatives For Rising Seas by David Basco Pdf

This timely book is about how to design alternatives to reduce coastal flood and wave damage, erosion, and loss of ecosystems facing an unknown future of sea level rise. The latest theories are interlaced with applied examples from the authors' 48 years of experience in teaching, research, and as a practicing, professional engineer in coastal engineering. The design process takes into consideration all the design constraints (scientific, engineering, economic, environmental, social/political/institutional, aesthetic, and media) to meet today's client needs, expectations, and budgets for an uncertain future.The book is organized as a textbook for graduate students. And, it is a self-contained reference for government and consulting engineers responsible for finding solutions to coastal hazards facing the world's coastal populations. New solutions are included in the book that help people of all socio-economic levels living at the coast. Both risk reduction metrics quantified in monetary terms, and increased resilience metrics quantified as vulnerability reduction must now be taken into consideration to make equitable design decisions on hazard mitigation alternatives.In the Anthropocene Era, under 'deep uncertainty' in global mean sea level predictions for the future, today's designs must mitigate today's storm damages, and be adaptable for the unpredictable water levels and storms of the future. This book includes a design 'philosophy' for water levels to year 2050 and for the long term from 2050 to 2100. Multiple spreadsheets are provided and organized to aid the design process.This is an exciting time to be 'thinkers' as Civil/Coastal engineers.Related Link(s)

Author : J William Kamphuis
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 542 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2020-05-29
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811208010

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Introduction To Coastal Engineering And Management (Third Edition) by J William Kamphuis Pdf

This book is based on the author's 49 years of experience as a practicing coastal engineer and 34 years as professor of coastal engineering and management at Queen's University. The book is therefore thoroughly practical in nature, but it also reflects newly relevant issues, such as consequences of failure, impacts of rising sea levels, aging infrastructure, real estate development, and contemporary decision making, design and education.This textbook is useful for undergraduate students, postgraduate students and practicing engineers. It covers waves, structures, sediment movement, coastal management, and contemporary coastal design and decision making. It presents both basic principles and engineering solutions. It discusses the traditional methods of analysis and synthesis (design), but also contemporary design methodologies, such as working with environmental impacts.The second edition expanded greatly on the topics of failure and resilience that surfaced as a result of recent disasters from hurricane surges and tsunamis. It updated the discussion of design and decision making for the 21st century, with many new examples.This third edition develops some of these topics further, but its largest new changes is the chapter on climate change. This chapter presents the basics of climate change and then goes on to stress the practical implications of the impacts of climate change, focusing on what is of importance to coastal and fluvial specialists.

Author : Ian Young,Alexander Babanin
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 396 pages
File Size : 42,9 Mb
Release : 2020-03-20
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811208683

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Ocean Wave Dynamics by Ian Young,Alexander Babanin Pdf

Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)

Author : B Mutlu Sumer,David R Fuhrman
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 758 pages
File Size : 45,6 Mb
Release : 2020-03-23
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789813234321

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Turbulence In Coastal And Civil Engineering by B Mutlu Sumer,David R Fuhrman Pdf

This book discusses the subject of turbulence encountered in coastal and civil engineering.The primary aim of the book is to describe turbulence processes including transition to turbulence; mean and fluctuating flows in channels/pipes, and in currents; wave boundary layers (including boundary layers under solitary waves); streaming processes in wave boundary layers; turbulence processes in breaking waves including breaking solitary waves; turbulence processes such as bursting process and their implications for sediment transport; flow resistance in steady and wave boundary layers; and turbulent diffusion and dispersion processes in the coastal and river environment, including sediment transport due to diffusion/dispersion.Both phenomenological and statistical theories are described in great detail. Turbulence modelling is also described, and several examples for modelling of turbulence in steady flow and wave boundary layers are presented.The book ends with a chapter containing hands-on exercises on a wide variety of turbulent flows including experimental study of turbulence in an open-channel flow, using Laser Doppler Anemometry; Statistical, correlation and spectral analysis of turbulent air jet flow; Turbulence modelling of wave boundary layer flows; and numerical modelling of dispersion in a turbulent boundary layer, a set of exercises used by the authors in their Masters classes over many years.Although the book is essentially intended for professionals and researchers in the area of Coastal and Civil Engineering, and as a text book for graduate/post graduate students, the contents of the book will, however, additionally provide sufficient background in the study of turbulent flows relevant to many other disciplines, such as Wind Engineering, Mechanical Engineering, and Environmental Engineering.

Author : Zheng Quanan
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 348 pages
File Size : 47,8 Mb
Release : 2017-03-17
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789814749022

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Satellite Sar Detection Of Sub-mesoscale Ocean Dynamic Processes by Zheng Quanan Pdf

Synthetic-aperture radar (SAR) as a form of radar to create images of objects, uses the motion of the radar antenna over a targeted region to provide finer spatial resolution than is possible with conventional beam-scanning radars by mounting the antenna on a moving platform such as an aircraft or spacecraft. As antenna aperture (the "size" of the antenna) is defined by the distance the SAR device travels over a target in the time taken for the radar pulses to return to the antenna, the larger the aperture is, the higher the image resolution, therefore, this enables SAR to create high resolution images with comparatively small physical antennas. This special book aims to provide the updated theories and methods for the use of synthetic aperture radar (SAR) onboard satellites to detect ocean processes, i.e., SAR ocean remote sensing. It is a hi-tech application field having been developed since late 1970s and become a powerful tool for obtaining dynamic signatures from the remote and broad ocean.

Author : Vallam Sundar,Sannasi Annamalaisamy Sannasiraj,K Murali,V Sriram
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 290 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 2020-05-15
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789811216077

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Tsunami: Engineering Perspective For Mitigation, Protection And Modeling by Vallam Sundar,Sannasi Annamalaisamy Sannasiraj,K Murali,V Sriram Pdf

The most pertinent tsunami related issues such as water borne debris during tsunami flooding, design loads to incorporate for impact forces on coastal zone infrastructure, detection and warning are meticulously incorporated in this book.Modelling of various coastal processes have proven to be successful in the recent past, which includes extreme events such as storm surge, cyclone, etc. The possible provisions for computational/numerical tsunami modelling and real physical modelling in laboratory are elaborated. The propagation, evolution and run-up of tsunami waves and their associated non-linear dynamics are discussed.The significant inferences from the experts who have had hands-on experience working with the extensive magnitude of a tsunami disaster reported on the signature studies and post-facto effects of the 2004 Indian Ocean Tsunami, with respect to the damages along the Indian coast.

Author : Uda Takaaki
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 548 pages
File Size : 51,8 Mb
Release : 2017-03-16
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789813146266

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Japan's Beach Erosion: Reality And Future Measures (Second Edition) by Uda Takaaki Pdf

Beaches in Japan have been eroding since the 1970s because of artificial land alterations and unsustainable coastal development. Almost all causes of the beach erosion in Japan are due to anthropogenic factors — as a result of human activity. This book presents the state of the beaches throughout Japan, looking at the current reality and the classification of causes of beach erosion using real-life, illustrated examples. It then goes on to look at practical models which can be used to predict changes to different types of beaches, and concludes with investigation of beach erosion as a wider structural problem. Lessons learnt show the manner in which excessive coastal development without clearly identified measures for beach protection can have widespread global ramifications. This second edition presents new findings from field studies carried out on Japanese beaches, along with the development and improvement of the numerical model presented previously. In addition to the first edition, six new examples of the beach erosion in Japan are included, as is new analysis of the BG model (a model for predicting based on Bagnold's concept), which can be applicable to various field problems. Originally published in Japanese (2004), this updated version gives clear practical guidance to coastal engineers working to prevent irreversible beach erosion and sustainable coastal development policy.