Poiret Dior And Schiaparelli

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Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli

Author : Ilya Parkins
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 300 pages
File Size : 47,5 Mb
Release : 2013-08-01
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780857853295

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Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli by Ilya Parkins Pdf

Through a highly original and detailed analysis of the memoirs, interviews and other life writings of Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli, this book explores changing notions of femininity in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the democratization of fashion began. Examining the idea of modernity, eternity and the ephemeral in the writings of these haute couturiers, the book reflects on fashion's ambivalent approach to women, which both celebrated and vilified them, presenting them as both ultra modern style leaders and irrational creatures stuck in the past. This fascinating text is key reading for scholars and students of fashion, gender studies, cultural studies and history.

Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli

Author : Ilya Parkins
Publisher : A&C Black
Page : 207 pages
File Size : 55,6 Mb
Release : 2013-07-25
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780857853288

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Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli by Ilya Parkins Pdf

Through a highly original and detailed analysis of the memoirs, interviews and other life writings of Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli, this book explores changing notions of femininity in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the democratization of fashion began. Examining the idea of modernity, eternity and the ephemeral in the writings of these haute couturiers, the book reflects on fashion's ambivalent approach to women, which both celebrated and vilified them, presenting them as both ultra modern style leaders and irrational creatures stuck in the past. This fascinating text is key reading for scholars and students of fashion, gender studies, cultural studies and history.

Vintage Fashion & Couture

Author : Kerry Taylor
Publisher : Mitchell Beazley
Page : 532 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2017-02-13
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781845338565

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Vintage Fashion & Couture by Kerry Taylor Pdf

"I thought I knew almost everything about the history of fashion until I met Kerry Taylor. The inside-out knowledge she has of garments will inspire both students and designers to look at fashion with fresh eyes." - Sarah Mower, US Vogue "This beautiful book by Kerry Taylor - the go-to woman for vintage and antique couture - is a treat for collectors and fashion lovers alike." - The Wall Street Journal "Whatever my question about vintage, Kerry Taylor has the answer. Her expertise, knowledge and historical anecdotes have raised the level of interest in this subject hugely." -Lisa Armstrong, Daily Telegraph Named one of Glamour Magazine's "Must-Read Style Books"! Profiled by Vogue and The New York Times and courted by style icons with wardrobes to sell and top designers in search of inspiration, Kerry Taylor is one of the world's leading experts on vintage fashion and couture. In this lavishly illustrated book, Kerry tells the story of a century of fashion through the work of its key design talents and the memorable women who have worn their creations. All the fashion stars are here from Poiret to McQueen via Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Madame Grès, Dior, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood, Alaïa, and Margiela. For each designer Kerry explores their career through a dazzling range of clothes and accessories, explaining what makes each item so desirable to the collector or wearer of vintage fashion. Each chapter includes at least one 'style icon' whose relationship with fashion has had a lasting impact, including Baba D'Erlanger, Lauren Bacall, Grace Kelly, Catherine Deneuve, Paloma Picasso and Kate Moss. Illustrated with a mix of gorgeous fashion photography plus images from Kerry's own astonishing archive, this book is set to become an invaluable guide for collectors of vintage (whatever their budget) and all those who love fashion. Contents includes... Foreword by Hubert de Givenchy Prologue by Christopher Kane 1900s - Paul Poiret - Lucile - Mariano Fortuny 1920s - Jean Patou - Jeanne Lavin - Chanel in the Twenties 1930s - Elsa Schiaparelli - Style Icon Wallis Simpson - Madeleine Vionnet - The Architect of Couture 1940s - The effects of War on Fashion in Europe - American Fashion in the Forties - Christian Dior - The Saviour of French Haute Couture 1950s - Pierre Balmain - Cristóbal Balenciaga - The Master - Style Icon Grace Kelly 1960s - Mary Quant - Hubert de Givenchy - Style Icon Audrey Hepburn 1970s - Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies - Zandra Rhodes - Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren 1980s - Italian Masters - Azzedine Alaïa - John Galliano 1990s - The New Romantics - Thierry Mugler - Style Icon Kate Moss 2000s - Later McQueen - Style Icon Daphne Guinness - Collecting Vintage ..And so much more!

Couture Confessions ebook

Author : Pamela Golbin
Publisher : Rizzoli Publications
Page : 272 pages
File Size : 54,9 Mb
Release : 2016-06-28
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780847849055

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Couture Confessions ebook by Pamela Golbin Pdf

Late legendary couturiers of modern fashion speaking eloquently about life, design, and inspiration. Vionnet, Chanel, Dior, Saint Laurent, McQueen—these names define haute couture, and long after the designers have passed away, their influence on fashion continues to be profound. In an exceptional compilation of the original words of these couturiers, Couture Confessions provides a unique and in-depth look at the lives and work of these fashion icons. In this engaging, beautifully designed book, Pamela Golbin, acclaimed chief curator of twentieth-century fashion and textiles at Paris’s Musée des Arts Décoratifs, has ingeniously constructed conversations in the designers’ own words that highlight their compelling personal stories as well as essential fashion "moments"—from designers Paul Poiret, Cristóbal Balenciaga, Madame Grès, Alexander McQueen, Madeleine Vionnet, and Gabrielle Chanel to Elsa Schiaparelli, Yves Saint Laurent, Jeanne Lanvin, Pierre Balmain, and Christian Dior.Featuring striking illustrations by internationally recognized illustrator Yann Legendre, each "interview" asks the questions every fashion lover has always wanted to ask, making these legends approachable, human, and ever more inspiring.

House of Fashion

Author : Jess Berry
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 232 pages
File Size : 50,7 Mb
Release : 2018-07-12
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474283410

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House of Fashion by Jess Berry Pdf

Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.

Elsa Schiaparelli

Author : Meryle Secrest
Publisher : Knopf
Page : 425 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2014
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : 9780307701596

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Elsa Schiaparelli by Meryle Secrest Pdf

"The first biography of the grand couturier, surrealist, and embattled figure (her medium was apparel), whose extraordinary work has stood the test of time"--

Secrets of the Couturiers

Author : Frances Kennett
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 150 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 1985
Category : Costume design
ISBN : IND:30000000195499

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Secrets of the Couturiers by Frances Kennett Pdf

Gabrielle Chanel - Christian Dior - Pierre Cardin - Yves Saint Laurent - Valentino - Elsa Schiaparelli.

The Routledge Companion to Art Deco

Author : Bridget Elliott,Michael Windover
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 475 pages
File Size : 42,6 Mb
Release : 2019-06-25
Category : Art
ISBN : 9780429627408

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The Routledge Companion to Art Deco by Bridget Elliott,Michael Windover Pdf

Scholarly interest in Art Deco has grown rapidly over the past fifty years, spanning different academic disciplines. This volume provides a guide to the current state of the field of Art Deco research by highlighting past accomplishments and promising new directions. Chapters are presented in five sections based on key concepts: migration, public culture, fashion, politics, and Art Deco’s afterlife in heritage restoration and new media. The book provides a range of perspectives on and approaches to these issues, as well as to the concept of Art Deco itself. It highlights the slipperiness of Art Deco yet points to its potential to shed new light on the complexities of modernity.

Vintage Fashion & Couture

Author : Kerry Taylor,Christopher Kane
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 0 pages
File Size : 51,8 Mb
Release : 2013
Category : Fashion design
ISBN : 1845337956

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Vintage Fashion & Couture by Kerry Taylor,Christopher Kane Pdf

"I thought I knew almost everything about the history of fashion until I met Kerry Taylor. The inside-out knowledge she has of garments will inspire both students and designers to look at fashion with fresh eyes." - Sarah Mower, US Vogue "This beautiful book by Kerry Taylor - the go-to woman for vintage and antique couture - is a treat for collectors and fashion lovers alike." - The Wall Street Journal "Whatever my question about vintage, Kerry Taylor has the answer. Her expertise, knowledge and historical anecdotes have raised the level of interest in this subject hugely." -Lisa Armstrong, Daily Telegraph Named one of Glamour Magazine's "Must-Read Style Books"! Profiled by Vogue and The New York Times and courted by style icons with wardrobes to sell and top designers in search of inspiration, Kerry Taylor is one of the world's leading experts on vintage fashion and couture. In this lavishly illustrated book, Kerry tells the story of a century of fashion through the work of its key design talents and the memorable women who have worn their creations. All the fashion stars are here from Poiret to McQueen via Lanvin, Chanel, Schiaparelli, Madame Grès, Dior, Balenciaga, Mary Quant, Ossie Clark, Vivienne Westwood, Alaïa, and Margiela. For each designer Kerry explores their career through a dazzling range of clothes and accessories, explaining what makes each item so desirable to the collector or wearer of vintage fashion. Each chapter includes at least one 'style icon' whose relationship with fashion has had a lasting impact, including Baba D'Erlanger, Lauren Bacall, Grace Kelly, Catherine Deneuve, Paloma Picasso and Kate Moss. Illustrated with a mix of gorgeous fashion photography plus images from Kerry's own astonishing archive, this book is set to become an invaluable guide for collectors of vintage (whatever their budget) and all those who love fashion. Contents includes... Foreword by Hubert de Givenchy Prologue by Christopher Kane 1900s Paul Poiret Lucile Mariano Fortuny 1920s Jean Patou Jeanne Lavin Chanel in the Twenties 1930s Elsa Schiaparelli Style Icon Wallis Simpson Madeleine Vionnet - The Architect of Couture 1940s The effects of War on Fashion in Europe American Fashion in the Forties Christian Dior - The Saviour of French Haute Couture 1950s Pierre Balmain Cristóbal Balenciaga - The Master Style Icon Grace Kelly 1960s Mary Quant Hubert de Givenchy Style Icon Audrey Hepburn 1970s Yves Saint Laurent in the Seventies Zandra Rhodes Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren 1980s Italian Masters Azzedine Alaïa John Galliano 1990s The New Romantics Thierry Mugler Style Icon Kate Moss 2000s Later McQueen Style Icon Daphne Guinness Collecting Vintage Taking Care of your Collection ..And so much more!

Elsa Schiaparelli

Author : Palmer White
Publisher : White Lion Publishing
Page : 222 pages
File Size : 45,7 Mb
Release : 1995
Category : Costume designers
ISBN : CORNELL:31924073857777

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Elsa Schiaparelli by Palmer White Pdf

Focuses on Schiaparelli's life from her time as a child in Rome, failed marriage and subsequent rise to fame as an innovative and daring designer.

Modernism à la Mode

Author : Elizabeth M. Sheehan
Publisher : Cornell University Press
Page : 273 pages
File Size : 44,9 Mb
Release : 2018-10-15
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9781501728150

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Modernism à la Mode by Elizabeth M. Sheehan Pdf

Modernism à la Mode argues that fashion describes why and how literary modernism matters in its own historical moment and ours. Bringing together texts, textiles, and theories of dress, Elizabeth Sheehan shows that writers, including Virginia Woolf, D.H. Lawrence, W.E.B. Du Bois, Nella Larsen, and F. Scott Fitzgerald, turned to fashion to understand what their own stylized works could do in the context of global capital, systemic violence, and social transformation. Modernists engage with fashion as a mood, a set of material objects, and a target of critique, and, in doing so, anticipate and address contemporary debates centered on the uses of literature and literary criticism amidst the supposed crisis in the humanities. A modernist affect with a purpose, no less. By engaging modernism à la mode—that is, contingently, contextually, and in light of contemporary concerns—this book offers an alternative to the often-untenable distinctions between strong or weak, suspicious or reparative, and politically activist or quietist approaches to literature, which frame current debates about literary methodology. As fashion helps us to describe what modernist texts do, it enables us to do more with modernism as a form of inquiry, perception, and critique. Fashion and modernism are interwoven forms of inquiry, perception, and critique, writes Sheehan. It is fashion that puts the work of early twentieth-century writers in conversation with twenty-first century theories of emotion, materiality, animality, beauty, and history.

Fashion Before Plus-Size

Author : Lauren Downing Peters
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 217 pages
File Size : 49,5 Mb
Release : 2023-06-15
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781350172562

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Fashion Before Plus-Size by Lauren Downing Peters Pdf

In 2022, it was reported that plus-sizes accounted for nearly twenty percent of all women's apparel sales in the United States and was one of the industry's few growth sectors. For many, this news seemed to herald a remarkably inclusive turn for an industry that long bartered in exclusivity. Yet the recent success of plus-size fashion obscures a rather complicated history–one that can be traced back over a century, and which illuminates the fraught relationship between fashion, fat, and weight bias in American culture. Although many regard fat as a malady of the present, in the early twentieth century it was estimated that more than one-third of American women classified as “overweight.” While modern weight bias had yet to fully cement itself in the American imaginary, the limitations of mass garment manufacturing coupled with the ascendent slender beauty ideal had already relegated larger women to fashion's peripheries. By 1915, however, fashion forecasters predicted that so-called “stoutwear” was well positioned to become one of the most lucrative subsectors of the burgeoning ready-to-wear trade. In the years that followed, stoutwear manufacturers set out to create more space for the fat woman in fashion but, in doing so, revealed an ancillary motivation: that of how to design fat out of existence altogether. Fashion Before Plus-Size considers what came “before” plus-size fashion while also shedding new light on the ways that the fashion industry not only perpetuates but produces weight bias. By situating stoutwear at the confluence of mass manufacturing, beauty ideals, standardized sizing, health discourse, and consumer culture, this book exposes the flawed foundations upon which the contemporary plus-size fashion industry has been built.

The Great Fashion Designers

Author : Brenda Polan,Roger Tredre
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 397 pages
File Size : 49,8 Mb
Release : 2020-01-09
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350091634

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The Great Fashion Designers by Brenda Polan,Roger Tredre Pdf

Over the last 180 years designers have propelled fashion from an elite craft into a cornerstone of popular culture. This brilliantly written guide to the lives and collections of 55 iconic fashion designers draws on the latest academic research and the best of fashion journalism, including the authors' own interviews with designers. Beginning with 19th century couturier Charles Frederick Worth and concluding with the star names of the 2010s, Polan and Tredre detail each designer's working methods and career highlights to capture the spirit of their times. This beautifully illustrated revised edition features five new designer profiles: Hedi Slimane, Raf Simons, Phoebe Philo, Alessandro Michele and Demna Gvasalia. It's also been updated throughout to reflect a fashion world in constant ferment, with designers swapping jobs and fashion houses at unprecedented speed. The industry has expanded into a global phenomenon - and designers have emerged as true celebrities; The Great Fashion Designers explores their passion and flair to show us fashion at its most inspirational.

Time in Fashion

Author : Caroline Evans,Alessandra Vaccari
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 201 pages
File Size : 42,5 Mb
Release : 2020-07-09
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350146969

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Time in Fashion by Caroline Evans,Alessandra Vaccari Pdf

Few phenomena embody the notion of time as well as fashion. Fast-moving and rooted in the 'now', it's constantly creating its own past through the process of rapid style change. Uniquely poised between the past and the future, fashion's relationship with time is unorthodox. Rather than considering time in the conventional sense, this anthology explores three alternative ways to think about fashion and time: the first identifies the seasonal nature of fashion as an industry, and shows how this has impacted on workers and wearers alike. The second looks at fashion design as a ceaseless process of adaptation, reconstruction and recombination of motifs, in which nostalgia and revivals play their part. The third construes fashion's 'imaginary', with its capacity for fantasy and myth-making, as a form of alternate history that asks 'what if?' Within this framework, key classic texts are juxtaposed with lesser known ones, in an interdisciplinary approach that includes philosophy, history, literature, media and fashion design, ranging from the 18th century to the present. It will be of interest to anyone wishing to understand one of the most complex yet inescapable aspects of fashion, its relationship to time, and will be a critical resource for undergraduate and postgraduate students in the humanities and all those interested in fashion in all its creative, commercial and cultural aspects.

Fashioning Character

Author : Lauren S. Cardon
Publisher : University of Virginia Press
Page : 335 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2021-04-07
Category : Literary Criticism
ISBN : 9780813945903

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Fashioning Character by Lauren S. Cardon Pdf

It’s often said that we are what we wear. Tracing an American trajectory in fashion, Lauren Cardon shows how we become what we wear. Over the twentieth century, the American fashion industry diverged from its roots in Paris, expanding and attempting to reach as many consumers as possible. Fashion became a tool for social mobility. During the late twentieth century, the fashion industry offered something even more valuable to its consumers: the opportunity to explore and perform. The works Cardon examines—by Sylvia Plath, Jack Kerouac, Toni Morrison, Sherman Alexie, and Aleshia Brevard, among others—illustrate how American fashion, with its array of possibilities, has offered a vehicle for curating public personas. Characters explore a host of identities as fashion allows them to deepen their relationships with ethnic or cultural identity, to reject the social codes associated with economic privilege, or to forge connections with family and community. These temporary transformations, or performances, show that identity is a process constantly negotiated and questioned, never completely fixed.