Textiles And Gender In Antiquity

Author : Mary Harlow,Cecile Michel,Louise Quillien
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 345 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 2020-11-12
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781350141513

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Textiles and Gender in Antiquity by Mary Harlow,Cecile Michel,Louise Quillien Pdf

This volume looks at how the issues of textiles and gender intertwine across three millennia in antiquity and examines continuities and differences across time and space – with surprising resonances for the modern world. The interplay of gender, identity, textile production and use is notable on many levels, from the question of who was involved in the transformation of raw materials into fabric at one end, to the wearing of garments and the construction of identity at the other. Textile production has often been considered to follow a linear trajectory from a domestic (female) activity to a more 'commercial' or 'industrial' (male-centred) mode of production. In reality, many modes of production co-existed and the making of textiles is not so easily grafted onto the labour of one sex or the other. Similarly, textiles once transformed into garments are often of 'unisex' shape but worn to express the gender of the wearer. As shown by the detailed textual source material and the rich illustrations in this volume, dress and gender are intimately linked in the visual and written records of antiquity. The contributors show how it is common practice in both art and literature not only to use particular garments to characterize one sex or the other, but also to undermine characterizations by suggesting that they display features usually associated with the opposite gender.

Author : Mary Harlow,Cecile Michel,Louise Quillien
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 328 pages
File Size : 49,9 Mb
Release : 2020-11-12
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781350141506

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Textiles and Gender in Antiquity by Mary Harlow,Cecile Michel,Louise Quillien Pdf

This volume looks at how the issues of textiles and gender intertwine across three millennia in antiquity and examines continuities and differences across time and space – with surprising resonances for the modern world. The interplay of gender, identity, textile production and use is notable on many levels, from the question of who was involved in the transformation of raw materials into fabric at one end, to the wearing of garments and the construction of identity at the other. Textile production has often been considered to follow a linear trajectory from a domestic (female) activity to a more 'commercial' or 'industrial' (male-centred) mode of production. In reality, many modes of production co-existed and the making of textiles is not so easily grafted onto the labour of one sex or the other. Similarly, textiles once transformed into garments are often of 'unisex' shape but worn to express the gender of the wearer. As shown by the detailed textual source material and the rich illustrations in this volume, dress and gender are intimately linked in the visual and written records of antiquity. The contributors show how it is common practice in both art and literature not only to use particular garments to characterize one sex or the other, but also to undermine characterizations by suggesting that they display features usually associated with the opposite gender.

Author : Margarita Gleba,Judit P‡szt—kai-Sze?ke
Publisher : Oxbow Books
Page : 240 pages
File Size : 49,6 Mb
Release : 2013-10-30
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781842179024

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Making Textiles in pre-Roman and Roman Times by Margarita Gleba,Judit P‡szt—kai-Sze?ke Pdf

Textile production is an economic necessity that has confronted all societies in the past. While most textiles were manufactured at a household level, valued textiles were traded over long distances and these trade networks were influenced by raw material supply, labour skills, costs, as well as by regional traditions. This was true in the Mediterranean regions and Making Textiles in pre-Roman and Roman times explores the abundant archaeological and written evidence to understand the typological and geographical diversity of textile commodities. Beginning in the Iron Age, the volume examines the foundations of the textile trade in Italy and the emergence of specialist textile production in Austria, the impact of new Roman markets on regional traditions and the role that gender played in the production of textiles. Trade networks from far beyond the frontiers of the Empire are traced, whilst the role of specialized merchants dealing in particular types of garment and the influence of Roman collegia on how textiles were produced and distributed are explored. Of these collegia, that of the fullers appears to have been particularly influential at a local level and how cloth was cleaned and treated is examined in detail, using archaeological evidence from Pompeii and provincial contexts to understand the processes behind this area of the textile trade.

Author : Mary Harlow,Marie-Louise Nosch
Publisher : Oxbow Books
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 50,7 Mb
Release : 2014-09-30
Category : Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN : 9781782977186

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Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress by Mary Harlow,Marie-Louise Nosch Pdf

Twenty chapters present the range of current research into the study of textiles and dress in classical antiquity, stressing the need for cross and inter-disciplinarity study in order to gain the fullest picture of surviving material. Issues addressed include: the importance of studying textiles to understand economy and landscape in the past; different types of embellishments of dress from weaving techniques to the (late introduction) of embroidery; the close links between the language of ancient mathematics and weaving; the relationships of iconography to the realities of clothed bodies including a paper on the ground breaking research on the polychromy of ancient statuary; dye recipes and methods of analysis; case studies of garments in Spanish, Viennese and Greek collections which discuss methods of analysis and conservation; analyses of textile tools from across the Mediterranean; discussions of trade and ethnicity to the workshop relations in Roman fulleries. Multiple aspects of the production of textiles and the social meaning of dress are included here to offer the reader an up-to-date account of the state of current research. The volume opens up the range of questions that can now be answered when looking at fragments of textiles and examining written and iconographic images of dressed individuals in a range of media. The volume is part of a pair together with Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology edited by Mary Harlow, C_cile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch

Author : Mary Harlow
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 485 pages
File Size : 54,5 Mb
Release : 2018-11-01
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781350114043

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A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in Antiquity by Mary Harlow Pdf

Whilst seemingly simple garments such as the tunic remained staples of the classical wardrobe, sources from the period reveal a rich variety of changing styles and attitudes to clothing across the ancient world. Covering the period 500 BCE to 800 CE and drawing on sources ranging from extant garments and architectural iconography to official edicts and literature, this volume reveals Antiquity's preoccupation with dress, which was matched by an appreciation of the processes of production rarely seen in later periods. From a courtesan's sheer faux-silk garb to the sumptuous purple dyes of an emperor's finery, clothing was as much a marker of status and personal expression as it was a site of social control and anxiety. Contemporary commentators expressed alarm in equal measure at the over-dressed, the excessively ascetic or at 'barbarian' silhouettes. Richly illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in Antiquity presents an overview of the period with essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, visual representations, and literary representations.

Author : Mary Harlow,Marie-Louise Nosch
Publisher : Oxbow Books
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 49,9 Mb
Release : 2014-09-30
Category : Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN : 9781782977162

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Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress by Mary Harlow,Marie-Louise Nosch Pdf

Twenty chapters present the range of current research into the study of textiles and dress in classical antiquity, stressing the need for cross and inter-disciplinarity study in order to gain the fullest picture of surviving material. Issues addressed include: the importance of studying textiles to understand economy and landscape in the past; different types of embellishments of dress from weaving techniques to the (late introduction) of embroidery; the close links between the language of ancient mathematics and weaving; the relationships of iconography to the realities of clothed bodies including a paper on the ground breaking research on the polychromy of ancient statuary; dye recipes and methods of analysis; case studies of garments in Spanish, Viennese and Greek collections which discuss methods of analysis and conservation; analyses of textile tools from across the Mediterranean; discussions of trade and ethnicity to the workshop relations in Roman fulleries. Multiple aspects of the production of textiles and the social meaning of dress are included here to offer the reader an up-to-date account of the state of current research. The volume opens up the range of questions that can now be answered when looking at fragments of textiles and examining written and iconographic images of dressed individuals in a range of media. The volume is part of a pair together with Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress: an interdisciplinary anthology edited by Mary Harlow, C_cile Michel and Marie-Louise Nosch

Author : Lin Foxhall
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 52,7 Mb
Release : 2013-05-09
Category : History
ISBN : 9781107067028

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Studying Gender in Classical Antiquity by Lin Foxhall Pdf

This book investigates how varying practices of gender shaped people's lives and experiences across the societies of ancient Greece and Rome. Exploring how gender was linked with other socio-political characteristics such as wealth, status, age and life-stage, as well as with individual choices, in the very different world of classical antiquity is fascinating in its own right. But later perceptions of ancient literature and art have profoundly influenced the development of gendered ideologies and hierarchies in the West, and influenced the study of gender itself. Questioning how best to untangle and interpret difficult sources is a key aim. This book exploits a wide range of archaeological, material cultural, visual, spatial, demographic, epigraphical and literary evidence to consider households, families, life-cycles and the engendering of time, legal and political institutions, beliefs about bodies, sex and sexuality, gender and space, the economic implications of engendered practices, and gender in religion and magic.

Author : Marie-Louise Nosch,C. Gillis
Publisher : Oxbow Books
Page : 304 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2007-03-10
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781782974390

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Ancient Textiles by Marie-Louise Nosch,C. Gillis Pdf

An understanding of textiles and the role they played in the past is important for anyone interested in past societies. Textiles served and in fact still do as both functional and symbolic items. The evidence for ancient textiles in Europe is split quite definitely along a north-south divide, with an abundance of actual examples in the north, but precious little in the south, where indirect evidence comes from such things as vase painting and frescoes. This volume brings together these two schools to look in more detail at textiles in the ancient world, and is based on a conference held in Denmark and Sweden in March 2003. Section one, Production and Organisation takes a chronological look through more than four thousand years of history; from Syria in the mid-third millennium BC, to Seventeenth Century Germany. Section two, Crafts and Technology focuses on the relationship between the primary producer (the craftsman) and the secondary receiver (the archaeologist/conservator). The third section, Society, examines the symbolic nature of textiles, and their place within ancient societal groups. Throughout the book emphasis is placed on the universality of textiles, and the importance of information exchange between scholars from different disciplines. A small book on finds First Aid for the Excavation of Archaeological Textiles is included as an Appendix.

Author : Cecilie Brøns,Marie-Louise Nosch
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 49,5 Mb
Release : 2017-07-31
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781785706752

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Textiles and Cult in the Ancient Mediterranean by Cecilie Brøns,Marie-Louise Nosch Pdf

Twenty-four experts from the fields of Ancient History, Semitic philology, Assyriology, Classical Archaeology, and Classical Philology come together in this volume to explore the role of textiles in ancient religion in Greece, Italy, The Levant and the Near East. Recent scholarship has illustrated how textiles played a large and very important role in the ancient Mediterranean sanctuaries. In Greece, the so-called temple inventories testify to the use of textiles as votive offerings, in particular to female divinities. Furthermore, in several cults, textiles were used to dress the images of different deities. Textiles played an important role in the dress of priests and priestesses, who often wore specific garments designated by particular colours. Clothing regulations in order to enter or participate in certain rituals from several Greek sanctuaries also testify to the importance of dress of ordinary visitors. Textiles were used for the furnishings of the temples, for example in the form of curtains, draperies, wall-hangings, sun-shields, and carpets. This illustrates how the sanctuaries were potential major consumers of textiles; nevertheless, this particular topic has so far not received much attention in modern scholarship. Furthermore, our knowledge of where the textiles consumed in the sanctuaries came from, where they were produced, and by who is extremely limited. Textiles and Cult in the Ancient Mediterranean examines the topics of textile production in sanctuaries, the use of textiles as votive offerings and ritual dress using epigraphy, literary sources, iconography and the archaeological material itself.

Author : Mary Harlow,Cécile Michel,Marie-Louise Nosch
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 54,5 Mb
Release : 2015
Category : Clothing and dress
ISBN : 178297721X

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Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern and Aegean Textiles and Dress by Mary Harlow,Cécile Michel,Marie-Louise Nosch Pdf

Author : Glorianne Pionati Shams
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 60 pages
File Size : 48,8 Mb
Release : 1987
Category : Textile fabrics
ISBN : UOM:39015040609532

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Some Minor Textiles in Antiquity by Glorianne Pionati Shams Pdf

Author : Marie-Louise Nosch,C_cile Michel,Mary Harlow
Publisher : Oxbow Books
Page : 321 pages
File Size : 40,5 Mb
Release : 2014-09-30
Category : Crafts & Hobbies
ISBN : 9781782977193

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Prehistoric, Ancient Near Eastern & Aegean Textiles and Dress by Marie-Louise Nosch,C_cile Michel,Mary Harlow Pdf

Textile and dress production, from raw materials to finished items, has had a significant impact on society from its earliest history. The essays in this volume offer a fresh insight into the emerging interdisciplinary research field of textile and dress studies by discussing archaeological, iconographical and textual evidence within a broad geographical and chronological spectrum. The thirteen chapters explore issues, such as the analysis of textile tools, especially spindle whorls, and textile imprints for reconstructing textile production in contexts as different as Neolithic Transylvania, the Early Bronze Age North Aegean and the Early Iron Age Eastern Mediterranean; the importance of cuneiform clay tablets as a documentary source for both drawing a detailed picture of the administration of a textile industry and for addressing gender issues, such as the construction of masculinity in the Sumerian kingdoms of the 3rd millennium BC; and discussions of royal and priestly costumes and clothing ornaments in the Mesopotamian kingdom of Mari and in Mycenaean culture. Textile terms testify to intensive exchanges between Semitic and Indo-European languages, especially within the terminology of trade goods. The production and consumption of textiles and garments are demonstrated in 2nd millennium Hittite Anatolia; from 1st millennium BC Assyria, a cross-disciplinary approach combines texts, realia and iconography to produce a systematic study of golden dress decorations; and finally, the important discussion of fibres, flax and wool, in written and archaeological sources is evidence for delineating the economy of linen and the strong symbolic value of fibre types in 1st millennium Babylonia and the Southern Levant. The volume is part of a pair together with Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress: An Interdisciplinary Anthology edited by Mary Harlow and Marie-Louise Nosch.

Author : Cecilie Brøns,Marie-Louise Nosch
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 320 pages
File Size : 45,5 Mb
Release : 2017-07-31
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781785706738

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Textiles and Cult in the Ancient Mediterranean by Cecilie Brøns,Marie-Louise Nosch Pdf

Twenty-four experts from the fields of Ancient History, Semitic philology, Assyriology, Classical Archaeology, and Classical Philology come together in this volume to explore the role of textiles in ancient religion in Greece, Italy, The Levant and the Near East. Recent scholarship has illustrated how textiles played a large and very important role in the ancient Mediterranean sanctuaries. In Greece, the so-called temple inventories testify to the use of textiles as votive offerings, in particular to female divinities. Furthermore, in several cults, textiles were used to dress the images of different deities. Textiles played an important role in the dress of priests and priestesses, who often wore specific garments designated by particular colours. Clothing regulations in order to enter or participate in certain rituals from several Greek sanctuaries also testify to the importance of dress of ordinary visitors. Textiles were used for the furnishings of the temples, for example in the form of curtains, draperies, wall-hangings, sun-shields, and carpets. This illustrates how the sanctuaries were potential major consumers of textiles; nevertheless, this particular topic has so far not received much attention in modern scholarship. Furthermore, our knowledge of where the textiles consumed in the sanctuaries came from, where they were produced, and by who is extremely limited. Textiles and Cult in the Ancient Mediterranean examines the topics of textile production in sanctuaries, the use of textiles as votive offerings and ritual dress using epigraphy, literary sources, iconography and the archaeological material itself.

Author : Annemarie Stauffer
Publisher : Metropolitan Museum of Art
Page : 50 pages
File Size : 55,6 Mb
Release : 1995
Category : Coptic textile fabrics
ISBN : 9780870997686

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Textiles of Late Antiquity by Annemarie Stauffer Pdf

Arranged in sections such as concrete, wood, stone metal, plastic, ceramic, paint, moisture barriers, sealants, and glass, provides information on specification and performance for over 200 architectural building materials. Sections also discuss the benefits and pitfalls of combining different materials, taking into account safety criteria, toxicity, and environmental impact. Annotation copyright by Book News, Inc., Portland, OR

Author : Mary Harlow
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 414 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2015
Category : Clothing and dress
ISBN : 1782977171

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Greek and Roman Textiles and Dress by Mary Harlow Pdf