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The clothes worn by our ancestors afford an invaluable insight into lifestyles that have disappeared. Choice of dress at any point in time is determined by a number of factors, such as social and economic pressures, moral codes, technical advances, influence of designers and artisitc movements, and the vagaries of individual taste.
Relatively few garments survive from before the eighteenth century, and the history of costume in the preceding centuries must therefore rely to a great extent on literary and visual evidence. This book, the first of its kind, examines Stuart England through the mirror of dress. It argues that both artistic and literary sources can be read and decoded for important information on dress and the way it was perceived in a period of immense political, social, and cultural change. Focusing on the rich visual culture of the seventeenth century, including portraits, engravings, fashion plates, and sculpture, and on literary sources--poetry, drama, essays, sermons--the distinguished historian of dress Aileen Ribeiro creates a fascinating account of Stuart dress and how it both reflected and influenced society. Supported by a wealth of illustrative images, she explores such varied themes as court costumes, the masque, the ways in which political and religious ideologies could be expressed in dress, and the importance of London as a fashion center. This beautiful book is an indispensable and authoritative account of what people wore and how it related to Stuart England’s cultural climate.
Fashion reveals not only who we are, but whom we aspire to be. From 1775 to 1925, artists in Europe were especially attuned to the gaps between appearance and reality, participating in and often critiquing the making of the self and the image. Reading their portrayals of modern life with an eye to fashion and dress reveals a world of complex calculations and subtle signals. Extensively illustrated, Fashion in European Art explores the significance of historical dress over this period of upheaval, as well as the lived experience of dress and its representation. Drawing on visual sources that extend from paintings and photographs to fashion plates, caricatures and advertisements, the expert contributors consider how artists and their sitters engaged with the fashion and culture of their times. They explore the politics of dress, its inspirations and the reactions it provoked, as well as the many meanings of fashion in European art, revealing its importance in understanding modernity itself.
Queen Alexandra used clothes to fashion images of herself as a wife, a mother and a royal: a woman who both led Britain alongside her husband Edward VII and lived her life through fashion. Inside the Royal Wardrobe overturns the popular portrait of a vapid and neglected queen, examining the surviving garments of Alexandra, Princess of Wales – who later became Queen Consort – to unlock a rich tapestry of royal dress and society in the second half of the 19th century. More than 130 extraordinary garments from Alexandra's wardrobe survive, from sumptuous court dress and politicised fancy dress to mourning attire and elegant coronation gowns, and can be found in various collections around the world, from London, Oslo and Denmark to New York, Toronto and Tokyo. Curator and fashion scholar Kate Strasdin places these garments at the heart of this in-depth study, examining their relationships to issues such as body politics, power, celebrity, social identity and performance, and interpreting Alexandra's world from the objects out. Adopting an object-based methodology, the book features a range of original sources from letters, travel journals and newspaper editorials, to wardrobe accounts, memoirs, tailors' ledgers and business records. Revealing a shrewd and socially aware woman attuned to the popular power of royal dress, the work will appeal to students and scholars of costume, fashion and dress history, as well as of material culture and 19th century history.
The Dress Detective by Ingrid Mida,Alexandra Kim Pdf
The Dress Detective is the first practical guide to analyzing fashion objects, clearly demonstrating how their close analysis can enhance and enrich interdisciplinary research. This accessible book provides readers with the tools to uncover the hidden stories in garments, setting out a carefully developed research methodology specific to dress, and providing easy-to-use checklists that guide the reader through the process. Beautifully illustrated, the book contains seven case studies of fashionable Western garments – ranging from an 1820s coat to a 2004 Kenzo jacket – that articulate the methodological framework for the process, illustrate the use of the checklists, and show how evidence from the garment itself can be used to corroborate theories of dress or fashion. This book outlines a skillset that has, until now, typically been passed on informally. Written in plain language, it will give any budding fashion historian, curator, or researcher the knowledge and confidence to analyze the material in front of them effectively.
Quigley Johnson has, reluctantly, given up the rest of her last year of high school to take part in her best friend Ann's Betterment Plan, which will turn them into the best-dressed, most sought-after, most admired girls at their senior formal. Because - hey - who doesn't want the perfect prom, complete with a dream dress and a devastatingly handsome date? But the prom costs money - lots of money - and even though the girls could easily have Ann's mom design their dresses (she's only Victoria Parisi, one of the most famous designers in the world), Ann insists that they pay their own way. And that's how Quigley gets stuck making artistic topping masterpieces on frozen pizzas canvases, before becoming a live model for Ms. Parisi's fashion design class, where she meets Zander. He's cute, and cool, and funny, with a killer design sensibility (even if he can't sketch). But is he too good to be true? And what about David, the hot, talented artist at school, who's also kind of a jerk, but won't leave Quigley alone? And Ann - she started the Betterment Plan to improve Quigley and herself, but it seems like it's ripping their friendship to shreds. This road to the prom dream may just end in disaster.
Tailored for Freedom by Ina Ewers-Schultz,Magdalena Holzhey Pdf
Seen as an expression of individuality and personality, fashion around 1900 became a synonym for the physical and social emancipation of women and progressed to become an object of artistic interest. The clothes designs of famous artists like Heinrich Vogeler, Henry van de Velde, Josef Hoffmann and Sonia Delaunay reveal both a new aesthetic and a new attitude to the role of women. The unity of art and life which the reform movements of around 1900 strove to achieve inspired artists to experiment with th e design of women's dresses. The artist's dress as a part of the idea of the Gesamtkunstwerk reflects the image of woman in its various facets: as a decorative object, as an artist and as an emancipated businesswoman. This volume will delight readers with the beauty of the clothes and artworks it shows, which it classifies controversially and under new interdisciplinary perspectives in the period of change at the beginning of the twentieth century - from the German Reform Movement and the Wiener Werkstätte to the English Arts and Crafts Movement and the development of Haute Couture in Paris.
Anne van Buren,Roger S. Wieck,The Morgan Library & Museum
Author : Anne van Buren,Roger S. Wieck,The Morgan Library & Museum Publisher : Giles Page : 0 pages File Size : 54,8 Mb Release : 2011 Category : Clothing and dress ISBN : 1904832903
Illuminating Fashion by Anne van Buren,Roger S. Wieck,The Morgan Library & Museum Pdf
A comprehensive study of dress in Northern Europe from the early fourteenth century to the beginning of the Renaissance,Illuminating Fashion is the first thorough study of the history of fashion in this period based solely on firmly dated or datable works of art. It draws on illuminated manuscripts, early printed books, tapestries, paintings, and sculpture from museums and libraries around the world. "Symbolism and metaphors are buried in the art of fashion," says Roger Wieck, the editor ofIlluminating Fashion. Examining the role of social customs and politics in influencing dress, at a time of rapid change in fashion, this fully illustrated volume demonstrates the richness of such symbolism in medieval art and how artists used clothing and costume to help viewers interpret an image. At the heart of the work isA Pictorial History of Fashion, 1325 to 1515, an album of over 300 illustrations with commentary. This is followed by a comprehensive glossary of medieval English and French clothing terms and an extensive list of dated and datable works of art. Not only can this fully illustrated volume be used as guide to a fuller understanding of the works of art, it can also help date an undated work; reveal the shape and structure of actual garments; and open up a picture's iconographic and social content. It is invaluable for costume designers, students and scholars of the history of dress and history of art, as well as those who need to date works of art.
The clothes worn by our ancestors afford an unparalleled insight into lifestyles that have disappeared forever. Choice of dress has always been governed by a series of influences – social and economic, artistic and technical – and, of course, the vagaries of individual taste. Jane Ashelford has used the National Trust’s stunning costume and textile collections as well as its historic house portraits, family correspondence, diaries and household papers to produce a fascinating account of the history of dress over the past four centuries
‘From inspiration to sketch, pattern to fabric, the making of a dress has been the structure that has held me, and my passion to dress others is the momentum of my life.’ Jenny Packham is one of Britain’s leading designers and most in-demand couturiers, known for her exquisite dresses made for brides, celebrities and even royalty. In How to Make a Dress, she explores her creative journey in a brilliant meditation on life and style. Beginning with the search for creative inspiration and taking us into her studio then onto the red carpet and beyond, she asks the questions that have preoccupied us for centuries: What makes the perfect dress? What do our clothes mean to us? And why do we dress the way we do? Whether she is on the trail of Marilyn Monroe in LA, designing a bespoke piece for the red carpet or sketching for a new collection, Jenny documents her pursuit of the eternal truths of style. Decades in the making, How to Make a Dress is an unforgettable book for anyone who has ever loved a piece of clothing.
The LBD - or 'little black dress' - debuted over 70 years ago by legend Coco Chanel and is still a perennial fashion staple. As most women know, it's impossible to have a 'nothing to wear' crisis with this trusty item in your wardrobe. The Art of the Black Dress celebrates this essential wardrobe item, offering ideas on how to maximize the wears of your best-loved piece, and cataloging the most iconic black dresses throughout history. Dress it up with heels and jewelry, or dress it down with your favorite sneakers: the possibilities are endless. From sexy to timeless, bodycon to maxi and more, this book offers ideas on how to transform your dress from office-worthy to special occasion with a few simple accessory tweaks. As well as this, hear the stories behind some of the most iconic black dresses in history, from Audrey Hepburn's Givenchy number in Breakfast at Tiffany's, to Princess Diana's 1996 'revenge dress' and Elizabeth Hurley's game-changing Versace safety-pin piece, you will see why every woman should have one in their arsenal. Featuring stunning illustrations throughout by Libby VanderPloeg, this is the perfect read for anyone who loves fashion, and appreciates the power of the black dress.
Famous Frocks: The Little Black Dress by Dolin Bliss O'Shea Pdf
“[A] stylishly presented collection of sewing patterns for 10 LBDs; O’Shea also shows how each pattern can be adapted to another look.” —Publishers Weekly Coco Chanel, Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly . . . Each of these women had an influential take on the most classic wardrobe staple of all: the Little Black Dress. In this chic sewing book, patternmaker Dolin Bliss O’Shea pulls inspiration from famous LBDs throughout history—including Mary Quant’s mod mini, a classic wrap dress worn by Liza Minnelli, Princess Diana’s smart A-line, and more—and offers patterns for reinterpreted versions that are perfectly stylish. Including ten full dress patterns with sewing variations to make twenty garments in all, a primer on sewing techniques, vintage photographs of style icons, and full-color shots of the finished pieces, this book has everything fashionistas need to bring timeless style right into their closets. “Features famous little black dresses over the decades. Learn how to sew up Audrey Hepburn’s Sabrina Dress or Kate Moss’ sexy lace dress of the millennium . . . The patterns in this book can take you through the work week to weekend cocktail parties!” —Coquette
"The common thread in Empty Dress is the role clothing plays in the construction of identity. Removal of the body calls attention to the artifice of clothes and makes their implicit codes more accessible to interpretation. The body's absence also demands that we read between the lines, examing the meaning of what is not represented--examing the conditions of representation itself. The fabric of each work is woven of many threads"--Page 13.