Wave Breaking

Author : Carlos M. Lemos
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 205 pages
File Size : 45,9 Mb
Release : 2013-03-13
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783642846885

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Wave Breaking by Carlos M. Lemos Pdf

In this monograph, a finite difference algorithm for study- ing two dimensional wave breaking in the vertical plane is developed. The essential feature of this algorithm is the combination of the Volume-of-Fluid (VOF) technique for arbi- trary free surfaces and the k-E turbulence model. This me- thodology allows a self-contained study for wave transforma- tion processes in shallow water before, during and after breaking. This capability is illustrated in several calcula- tions. This book will be of interest for final year graduates, postgraduates and researchers working in the fields of tur- bulence modelling, wave hydrodynamics, coastal engineering, and oceanography of coastal regions.

Author : Alexander Babanin
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 479 pages
File Size : 53,6 Mb
Release : 2011-05-19
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781139502726

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Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves by Alexander Babanin Pdf

Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

Author : William J. Garcia
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 132 pages
File Size : 54,7 Mb
Release : 1968
Category : Ocean waves
ISBN : UIUC:30112007397422

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An Experimental Study of Breaking-wave Pressures by William J. Garcia Pdf

Author : Nevil Shute
Publisher : DigiCat
Page : 251 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 2022-08-10
Category : Fiction
ISBN : EAN:8596547162728

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Requiem for a Wren by Nevil Shute Pdf

"Requiem for a Wren" is a heartbreaking story of the consequences of those in service during WWII. Even after the war ends, it is never over for them. The ghosts of the past torment them, the guilt stays with them, and they live with an unexplainable restlessness. They understand that they must put the past behind them and adjust to civil life as best as possible. But it is not so simple.

Author : Robert M. Sorensen
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
Page : 310 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 1993-10-06
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 0471551651

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Basic Wave Mechanics by Robert M. Sorensen Pdf

Intended for coastal engineers and marine scientists who desire to develop a fundamental physical understanding of ocean waves and be able to apply this knowledge to ocean and coastal analysis and design. Provides an introduction to the physical processes of ocean wave mechanics, an understanding of the basic techniques for wave analysis, techniques for practical calculation and prediction of waves and applied wave forecasting.

Author : Ian Young,Alexander Babanin
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 396 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2020-03-20
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811208683

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Ocean Wave Dynamics by Ian Young,Alexander Babanin Pdf

Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)

Author : O. M. Phillips,Klaus Hasselmann
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 677 pages
File Size : 53,8 Mb
Release : 2012-12-06
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9781468489804

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Wave Dynamics and Radio Probing of the Ocean Surface by O. M. Phillips,Klaus Hasselmann Pdf

In 1960, Dr. George Deacon ofthe National Institute ofOceanography in England organized a meeting in Easton, Maryland that summarized the state of our understanding at that time of ocean wave statistics and dynamics. It was a pivotal occasion: spectral techniques for wave measurement were beginning to be used, wave-wave interactions hadjust been discovered, and simple models for the growth of waves by wind were being developed. The meeting laid the foundation for much work that was to follow, but one could hardly have imagined the extent to which new techniques of measurement, particularly by remote sensing, new methods of calculation and computation, and new theoretical and laboratory results would, in the following twenty years, build on this base. When Gaspar Valenzuela of the V. S. Naval Research Laboratory perceived that the time was right for a second such meeting, it was natural that Sir George Deacon would be invited to serve as honorary chairman for the meeting, and the entire waves community was delighted at his acceptance. The present volume contains reviewed and edited papers given at this second meeting, held this time in Miami, Florida, May 13-20, 1981, with the generous support of the Office of Naval Research, the National Aeronautics and Space Administration, and the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.

Author : Maarten W Dingemans
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 1016 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 1997-01-07
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789814506588

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Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms by Maarten W Dingemans Pdf

The primary objective of this book is to provide a review of techniques available for the problems of wave propagation in regions with uneven beds as they are encountered in coastal areas. The view taken is that the techniques should be useful for application in advisory practice. However, effort is put into a precise definition of the underlying physical principles, so that the validity of the methods used can be evaluated. Both linear and nonlinear wave propagation techniques are discussed. Because of its length, the book comes in two parts: Part 1 covers primarily linear wave propagation, and Part 2 covers nonlinear wave propagation. Contents: Basic EquationsWave Propagation FormulationThe Mild-Slope EquationPractical Aspects of Linear Wave Propagation ModelsBoussinesq-Type Models for Uneven BottomsKdV-Type ModelsHarmonic GenerationNonlinear Wave Propagation of Stokes' Waves over Uneven Bottoms keywords:

Author : Society for Underwater Technology (SUT)
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 337 pages
File Size : 49,6 Mb
Release : 2013-03-14
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789401736633

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Wave Kinematics and Environmental Forces by Society for Underwater Technology (SUT) Pdf

In determining the response of offshore structures, it is of utmost importance to determine, in the most correct manner, all factors which contribute to the total force acting on these structures. Applying the Morison formula (Morison et. al. , 1950) to calculate forces on offshore slender structures, uncertainties related to the understanding of the wave climate, the hydrodynamic force coefficients and the kinematics of ocean waves represent the most important contributions to the uncertainties in the prediction of the total forces on these structures (Haver and Gudmestad, 1992). Traditional calculation of forces on offshore structures involves the use of regular waves with the following non-linearities inco1porated use of regular wave theories inco1porating higher order terms use of Morison equation having a nonlinear drag term inclusion of the effect of the free surface by integrating all contributions to total forces and moments from the sea floor to the free surface of the waves In order to describe the sea more realistically, the ocean surface is to be described as an irregular sea surface represented by its energy spectrum. The associated decomposition of the sea surface is given as a linear sum of linear waves. The total force is found by integrating the contribution from all components in the wave spectrum to the free surface. The kinematics of each component must therefore be determined.

Author : David M Kelly,Angelos Dimakopoulos,Pablo Higuera Caubilla
Publisher : CRC Press
Page : 260 pages
File Size : 42,7 Mb
Release : 2021-04-06
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9781351119535

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Advanced Numerical Modelling of Wave Structure Interaction by David M Kelly,Angelos Dimakopoulos,Pablo Higuera Caubilla Pdf

This book will serve as a reference guide, and state-of-the-art review, for the wide spectrum of numerical models and computational techniques available to solve some of the most challenging problems in coastal engineering. The topics covered in this book, are explained fundamentally from a numerical perspective and also include practical examples applications. Important classic themes such as wave generation, propagation and breaking, turbulence modelling and sediment transport are complemented by hot topics such as fluid and structure interaction or multi-body interaction to provide an integral overview on numerical techniques for coastal engineering. Through the vision of 10 high impact authors, each an expert in one or more of the fields included in this work, the chapters offer a broad perspective providing several different approaches, which the readers can compare critically to select the most suitable for their needs. Advanced Numerical Modelling of Wave Structure Interaction will be useful for a wide audience, including PhD students, research scientists, numerical model developers and coastal engineering consultants alike.

Author : Hitoshi Gotoh,Akio Okayasu,Yasunori Watanabe
Publisher : World Scientific Publishing Company
Page : 252 pages
File Size : 40,8 Mb
Release : 2013-06-04
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9789814449724

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Computational Wave Dynamics by Hitoshi Gotoh,Akio Okayasu,Yasunori Watanabe Pdf

This book provides a comprehensive description of the latest theory-supported numerical technologies, as well as scientific and engineering applications for water surface waves. Its contents are crafted to cater to a step-by-step learning of computational wave dynamics and ocean wave modeling. It provides a comprehensive description from underlying theories of free-surface flows, to practical computational applications for coastal and ocean engineering on the basis of computational fluid dynamics (CFD). The text may be used as a textbook for advanced undergraduate students and graduate students to understand the theoretical background of wave computations, and the recent progress of computational techniques for free-surface and interfacial flows, such as Volume of Fluid (VOF), Constrained Interpolation Profile (CIP), Lagrangian Particle (SPH, MPS), Distinct Element (DEM) and Euler-Lagrange Hybrid Methods. It is also suitable for researchers and engineers who wish to apply CFD techniques to ocean modeling and practical coastal problems involving sediment transport, wave-structure interaction and surf zone flows.

Author : Maarten W. Dingemans
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 508 pages
File Size : 48,8 Mb
Release : 2000
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9810239947

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Water Wave Propagation Over Uneven Bottoms: Linear wave propagation by Maarten W. Dingemans Pdf

Author : Adrian Constantin
Publisher : SIAM
Page : 325 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2011-12-01
Category : Mathematics
ISBN : 9781611971866

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Nonlinear Water Waves with Applications to Wave-Current Interactions and Tsunamis by Adrian Constantin Pdf

This overview of some of the main results and recent developments in nonlinear water waves presents fundamental aspects of the field and discusses several important topics of current research interest. It contains selected information about water-wave motion for which advanced mathematical study can be pursued, enabling readers to derive conclusions that explain observed phenomena to the greatest extent possible. The author discusses the underlying physical factors of such waves and explores the physical relevance of the mathematical results that are presented. The book is intended for mathematicians, physicists and engineers interested in the interplay between physical concepts and insights and the mathematical ideas and methods that are relevant to specific water-wave phenomena. The material is an expanded version of the author's lectures delivered at the NSF-CBMS Regional Research Conference in the Mathematical Sciences organized by the Mathematics Department of the University of Texas-Pan American in 2010.

Author : V. Sundar
Publisher : John Wiley & Sons
Page : 284 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2017-02-13
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781119241638

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Ocean Wave Mechanics by V. Sundar Pdf

This is a textbook aimed at graduate students and offshore engineering practitioners that covers basic fluid mechanics and the deterministic and statistical descriptions of infinitesimal and finite amplitude water waves. It reviews the theory of wave loading on structures and closes with a chapter on the potential of ocean wave energy and devices for extracting it. Since the 1980s there has been tremendous progress in numerical and physical modelling of coastal and offshore structures in waves. This calls for a clear understanding of the phenomena of wave generation, propagation, deformation and its effects on marine structures. This book will help the reader to understand the many results and descriptions found in journals, reports and research papers. It is self-contained, and encompasses the fundamentals of the subject with sufficient description and illustrations.

Author : Ewald Quak,Tarmo Soomere
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 467 pages
File Size : 47,5 Mb
Release : 2009-08-29
Category : Mathematics
ISBN : 9783642005855

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Applied Wave Mathematics by Ewald Quak,Tarmo Soomere Pdf

This edited volume consists of twelve contributions related to the EU Marie Curie Transfer of Knowledge Project Cooperation of Estonian and Norwegian Scienti c Centres within Mathematics and its Applications, CENS-CMA (2005-2009), - der contract MTKD-CT-2004-013909, which ?nanced exchange visits to and from CENS, the Centre for Nonlinear Studies at the Institute of Cybernetics of Tallinn University of Technology in Estonia. Seven contributions describe research highlights of CENS members, two the work of members of CMA, the Centre of Mathematics for Applications,Univ- sity of Oslo, Norway, as the partner institution of CENS in the Marie Curie project, and three the ?eld of work of foreign research fellows, who visited CENS as part of theproject. Thestructureofthebookre?ectsthedistributionofthetopicsaddressed: Part I Waves in Solids Part II Mesoscopic Theory Part III Exploiting the Dissipation Inequality Part IV Waves in Fluids Part V Mathematical Methods The papers are written in a tutorial style, intended for non-specialist researchers and students, where the authors communicate their own experiences in tackling a problem that is currently of interest in the scienti?c community. The goal was to produce a book, which highlights the importance of applied mathematics and which can be used for educational purposes, such as material for a course or a seminar. To ensure the scienti?c quality of the contributions, each paper was carefully - viewed by two international experts. Special thanks go to all authors and referees, without whom making this book would not have been possible.