Dressing Modern Frenchwomen

Author : Mary Lynn Stewart
Publisher : JHU Press
Page : 324 pages
File Size : 52,7 Mb
Release : 2020-03-03
Category : History
ISBN : 9781421429229

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Dressing Modern Frenchwomen by Mary Lynn Stewart Pdf

At a glance, high fashion and feminism seem unlikely partners. Between the First and Second World Wars, however, these forces combined femininity and modernity to create the new, modern French woman. In this engaging study, Mary Lynn Stewart reveals the fashion industry as an integral part of women's transition into modernity. Analyzing what female columnists in fashion magazines and popular women novelists wrote about the "new silhouette," Stewart shows how bourgeois women feminized the more severe, masculine images that elite designers promoted to create a hybrid form of modern that both emancipated women and celebrated their femininity. She delves into the intricacies of marketing the new clothes and the new image to middle-class women and examines the nuts and bolts of a changing industry—including textile production, relationships between suppliers and department stores, and privacy and intellectual property issues surrounding ready-to-wear couture designs. Dressing Modern Frenchwomen draws from thousands of magazine covers, advertisements, fashion columns, and features to uncover and untangle the fascinating relationships among the fashion industry, the development of modern marketing techniques, and the evolution of the modern woman as active, mobile, and liberated.

Author : Mary Lynn Stewart
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 305 pages
File Size : 40,8 Mb
Release : 2024-06-06
Category : Fashion merchandising
ISBN : 1421427818

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Dressing Modern Frenchwomen by Mary Lynn Stewart Pdf

Author : Alexandra Palmer
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 288 pages
File Size : 45,8 Mb
Release : 2018-11-01
Category : History
ISBN : 9781350114067

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A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age by Alexandra Palmer Pdf

Over the last century there has been a complete transformation of the fashion system. The unitary top-down fashion cycle has been replaced by the pulsations of multiple and simultaneous styles, while the speed of global production and circulation has become ever faster and more complex. Running in tandem, the development of artificial fibres has revolutionized the composition of clothing, and the increased focus on youth, sexuality, and the body has radically changed its design. From the 1920s flapper dress to debates over the burkini, fashion has continued to be deeply involved in society's larger issues. Drawing on a wealth of visual, textual and object sources and illustrated with 100 images, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Modern Age presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.

Author : Charlotte Nicklas,Annebella Pollen
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 44,9 Mb
Release : 2015-10-22
Category : History
ISBN : 9781474240512

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Dress History by Charlotte Nicklas,Annebella Pollen Pdf

The field of dress history has experienced exponential growth over the past two decades. This in-depth investigation examines the expanding borders and porous boundaries of the discipline today, outlining key debates and showcasing the most exciting research. With international case studies from a wide range of scholars, the volume encompasses work from a variety of historical periods from the late 18th century to the present day. Contributors examine, critique and expand the methodologies and sources used in fashion history, analyse how dress is collected, displayed and sold, and investigate clothing's meanings and uses in the practice of identity. Exploring overlooked territories and new approaches to analysis, the book offers students and scholars a fresh appraisal of dress history in the 21st century.

Author : Sarah Maza
Publisher : Univ of California Press
Page : 353 pages
File Size : 48,7 Mb
Release : 2011-05-31
Category : History
ISBN : 9780520948730

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Violette Noziere by Sarah Maza Pdf

On an August evening in 1933, in a quiet, working-class neighborhood in Paris, eighteen-year-old Violette Nozière gave her mother and father glasses of barbiturate-laced "medication," which she told them had been prescribed by the family doctor; one of her parents died, the other barely survived. Almost immediately Violette’s act of "double parricide" became the most sensational private crime of the French interwar era—discussed and debated so passionately that it was compared to the Dreyfus Affair. Why would the beloved only child of respectable parents do such a thing? To understand the motives behind this crime and the reasons for its extraordinary impact, Sarah Maza delves into the abundant case records, re-creating the daily existence of Parisians whose lives were touched by the affair. This compulsively readable book brilliantly evokes the texture of life in 1930s Paris. It also makes an important argument about French society and culture while proposing new understandings of crime and social class in the years before World War II.

Author : Jess Berry
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 232 pages
File Size : 51,8 Mb
Release : 2018-07-12
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474283410

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House of Fashion by Jess Berry Pdf

Since Charles Fredrick Worth established his luxurious Maison de Couture in 1858, the interior has played a crucial role in the display of fashion. House of Fashion provides a full historical account of the interplay between fashion and the modern interior, demonstrating how they continue to function as a site for performing modern, gendered identities for designers and their clientele alike. In doing so, it traces how designers including Poiret, Vionnet, Schiaparelli and Dior used commercial spaces and domestic interiors to enhance their credentials as connoisseurs of taste and style. Taking us from the early years of haute couture to the luxury fashion of the present day, Berry explores how the salon, the atelier and the boutique have allowed fashion to move beyond the aesthetics of dress, to embrace the visual seduction of the theatrical, artistic, and the exotic. From the Art Deco allure of Coco Chanel's Maison to the luminous spaces of contemporary flagship stores, House of Fashion sets out fashion's links with key figures in architecture and design, including Louis Süe, Robert Mallet-Stevens, Eileen Gray, and Jean-Michel Frank. Drawing on photographs, advertisements, paintings and illustrations, this interdisciplinary study examines how fashionable interiors have shaped our understanding of architecture, dress, and elegance.

Author : Véronique Pouillard
Publisher : Harvard University Press
Page : 337 pages
File Size : 42,6 Mb
Release : 2021-05-04
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9780674259461

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Paris to New York by Véronique Pouillard Pdf

An innovative history of the fashion industry, focusing on the connections between Paris and New York, art and finance, and design and manufacturing. Fashion is one of the most dynamic industries in the world, with an annual retail value of $3 trillion and globally recognized icons like Coco Chanel, Christian Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent. How did this industry generate such economic and symbolic capital? Focusing on the roles of entrepreneurs, designers, and institutions in fashion’s two most important twentieth-century centers, Paris to New York tells the history of the industry as a negotiation between art and commerce. In the late nineteenth century, Paris-based firms set the tone for a global fashion culture nurtured by artistic visionaries. In the burgeoning New York industry, however, the focus was on mass production. American buyers, trend scouts, and designers crossed the Atlantic to attend couture openings, where they were inspired by, and often accused of counterfeiting, designs made in Paris. For their part, Paris couturiers traveled to New York to understand what American consumers wanted and to make deals with local manufacturers for whom they designed exclusive garments and accessories. The cooperation and competition between the two continents transformed the fashion industry in the early and mid-twentieth century, producing a hybrid of art and commodity. Véronique Pouillard shows how the Paris–New York connection gave way in the 1960s to a network of widely distributed design and manufacturing centers. Since then, fashion has diversified. Tastes are no longer set by elites alone, but come from the street and from countercultures, and the business of fashion has transformed into a global enterprise.

Author : Susan Sommers
Publisher : Random House Incorporated
Page : 177 pages
File Size : 43,7 Mb
Release : 1988
Category : Design
ISBN : 0394547047

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French Chic by Susan Sommers Pdf

A top fashion journalist reveals the secrets of French style and shows how American women can make French chic, allure, and confidence a part of their own style.

Author : Ilya Parkins
Publisher : A&C Black
Page : 208 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 2013-07-25
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780857853288

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Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli by Ilya Parkins Pdf

Through a highly original and detailed analysis of the memoirs, interviews and other life writings of Poiret, Dior and Schiaparelli, this book explores changing notions of femininity in the early decades of the twentieth century, when the democratization of fashion began. Examining the idea of modernity, eternity and the ephemeral in the writings of these haute couturiers, the book reflects on fashion's ambivalent approach to women, which both celebrated and vilified them, presenting them as both ultra modern style leaders and irrational creatures stuck in the past. This fascinating text is key reading for scholars and students of fashion, gender studies, cultural studies and history.

Author : Beverly Lemire
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 286 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 2016-12-05
Category : History
ISBN : 9781351889698

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The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society by Beverly Lemire Pdf

Throughout history, fashion has emerged as one of the most powerful driving forces determining the political, economic and social ramifications of the production, distribution and circulation of goods. Indeed fashion, especially in relation to clothing and textiles, shapes the relationship between self and society in unique ways. In this light, the collected papers in this volume position fashion as the lens - the critical mediating force - through which to analyse and understand cultural, economic and political shifts within a broad spectrum of societies in Europe, Asia, Africa and America from the seventeenth to twenty-first centuries. Topics include a seventeenth-century failing fashion region, the material politics of marketing American abolitionist fashions, the construction of a fashionable ethos for French perfumes, and the use and meanings of clothing and textiles in the politics of Nigerian silk robes and early modern domestic décor in Europe. This volume represents an important shift in scholarship towards a more in-depth understanding of the role of fashion in early modern and modern times and will appeal to international readers interested in material culture, fashion, consumer studies and cultural anthropology, among other areas.

Author : Mary Lynn Stewart
Publisher : McGill-Queen's Press - MQUP
Page : 266 pages
File Size : 49,8 Mb
Release : 2018-06-20
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9780773554023

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Gender, Generation, and Journalism in France, 1910-1940 by Mary Lynn Stewart Pdf

In the late nineteenth century, the first wave of female journalists began writing in the French daily press. Yet, while they undeniably opened doors for the next generations of educated women, sexist hiring practices, assumptions about women’s aptitudes as reporters, and more subtle gender biases continued to saturate the industry in the decades that followed. Gender, Generation, and Journalism in France, 1910–1940 investigates the careers and written work of ten women who regularly reported in the national, Paris-based dailies. Addressing the role of mentorship, family connections, gendered behaviours, reporting styles, and subject matter, Mary Lynn Stewart debunks lingering essentialist notions about women’s entry into journalism. She shows that struggling newspapers, attempting to reverse declining circulation, hired women to cover subjects that expanded to include international relations, colonial conflicts, trials, local politics, and social problems. Through content analysis, deixis, and systematic comparisons of several women and men reporting on the same or different events, she further queries claims about a feminine style, finding more similarities than differences between masculine and feminine reporting. Documenting the persistence of gender discrimination in the hiring, assigning, and assessment of women reporters in the French daily press, Gender, Generation, and Journalism in France, 1910–1940 demonstrates that, through the support of their female colleagues, women managed to succeed despite a variety of challenges.

Author : Mary Jo Maynes,Birgitte Søland,Christina Benninghaus
Publisher : Indiana University Press
Page : 326 pages
File Size : 44,7 Mb
Release : 2005
Category : History
ISBN : 0253217105

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Secret Gardens, Satanic Mills by Mary Jo Maynes,Birgitte Søland,Christina Benninghaus Pdf

Essays on the history of girlhood in modern Europe.

Author : Pierre-Yves Donzé,Véronique Pouillard,Joanne Roberts
Publisher : Oxford University Press
Page : 649 pages
File Size : 48,6 Mb
Release : 2022
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9780190932220

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The Oxford Handbook of Luxury Business by Pierre-Yves Donzé,Véronique Pouillard,Joanne Roberts Pdf

This innovative volume brings together contributions from leading experts in the study of luxury to present the full range of perspectives on luxury business, from a variety of social science approaches. Topics include conceptual foundations and the evolution of the luxury industry; the production of luxury goods; luxury branding and marketing; distributing luxury; globalization and markets; and issues of morality, inequality, and environmental sustainability. The Oxford Handbook of Luxury Business is a necessary resource for all students and researchers of the field as well as for forward-thinking industry professionals.

Author : Nick Underwood
Publisher : Indiana University Press
Page : 268 pages
File Size : 47,8 Mb
Release : 2022-03
Category : History
ISBN : 9780253059819

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Yiddish Paris by Nick Underwood Pdf

Yiddish Paris explores how Yiddish-speaking emigrants from Eastern Europe in Paris in the 1920s and 1930s created a Yiddish diaspora nation in Western Europe and how they presented that nation to themselves and to others in France. In this meticulously researched and first full-length study of interwar Yiddish culture in France, author Nicholas Underwood argues that the emergence of a Yiddish Paris was depended on "culture makers," mostly left-wing Jews from Socialist and Communist backgrounds who created cultural and scholarly organizations and institutions, including the French branch of YIVO (a research institution focused on East European Jews), theater troupes, choruses, and a pavilion at the Paris World's Fair of 1937. Yiddish Paris examines how these left-wing Yiddish-speaking Jews insisted that even in France, a country known for demanding the assimilation of immigrant and minority groups, they could remain a distinct group, part of a transnational Yiddish-speaking Jewish nation. Yet, in the process, they in fact created a French-inflected version of Jewish diaspora nationalism, finding allies among French intellectuals, largely on the left.

Author : Sarah Newman,Matt Houlbrook
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 210 pages
File Size : 54,5 Mb
Release : 2015-09-25
Category : Language Arts & Disciplines
ISBN : 9781317752059

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The Press and Popular Culture in Interwar Europe by Sarah Newman,Matt Houlbrook Pdf

This collection shows the importance of a comparative European framework for understanding developments in the popular press and journalism between the wars. This was, it argues, a formative and vital period in the making of the modern press. A great deal of fine scholarship on the development of modern forms of journalism and newspapers in the nineteenth and twentieth centuries has emerged within discrete national histories. Yet in bringing together essays on Britain, France, Germany, Italy and Poland, this book discerns points of convergence and divergence, and the importance of the European context in shaping how news was defined, produced and consumed. Challenging the tendency of histories of the press to foreground processes of ‘Americanisation’ and the displacement of older notions of the ‘fourth estate’ by new forms of human interest journalism, the chapters draw attention to the complex ways in which the popular press continued to be politicized throughout the interwar period. Building on this analysis, the book examines the forms, processes and networks through which newspapers were produced for public consumption. In a period of massive social, political and economic upheaval and conflict, the popular press provided a forum in which Europe’s meanings and nature could be constructed and contested. The interpersonal, material and technological links between newspapers, news corporations and news agencies in different countries served to define the outlines of Europe. Europe was called into being through the circulation of news and the practices and networks of the modern mass press traced in this volume. This publication is highly relevant to scholars of the history of journalism and cultural historians of interwar Britain and Europe. This book was originally published as a special issue of Journalism Studies.