The Force Of Fashion In Politics And Society

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The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society

Beverly Lemire
The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society Book PDF

Author : Beverly Lemire
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 286 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2016-12-05
Category : History
ISBN : 9781351889698

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The Force of Fashion in Politics and Society by Beverly Lemire Pdf

Throughout history, fashion has emerged as one of the most powerful driving forces determining the political, economic and social ramifications of the production, distribution and circulation of goods. Indeed fashion, especially in relation to clothing and textiles, shapes the relationship between self and society in unique ways. In this light, the collected papers in this volume position fashion as the lens - the critical mediating force - through which to analyse and understand cultural, economic and political shifts within a broad spectrum of societies in Europe, Asia, Africa and America from the seventeenth to twenty-first centuries. Topics include a seventeenth-century failing fashion region, the material politics of marketing American abolitionist fashions, the construction of a fashionable ethos for French perfumes, and the use and meanings of clothing and textiles in the politics of Nigerian silk robes and early modern domestic décor in Europe. This volume represents an important shift in scholarship towards a more in-depth understanding of the role of fashion in early modern and modern times and will appeal to international readers interested in material culture, fashion, consumer studies and cultural anthropology, among other areas.

The International Politics of Fashion

Andreas Behnke
The International Politics of Fashion Book PDF

Author : Andreas Behnke
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 222 pages
File Size : 50,9 Mb
Release : 2016-07-07
Category : Political Science
ISBN : 9781317656234

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The International Politics of Fashion by Andreas Behnke Pdf

This book seeks to address and fill a puzzling omission in contemporary critical IR scholarship. Following on from the aesthetic turn in IR, critical and ‘postmodern’ IR has produced an impressive array of studies into movies, literature, music and art and the way these media produce, mediate, and represent international politics. By contrast, the proponents of the aesthetic turn have overlooked fashion as a source of knowledge about global politics. Yet stories about the political role of fashion abound in the news media. Margaret Thatcher used dress to define her political image, and more recently the fascination with Michelle Obama, Carla Bruni and other women in similar positions, and the discussions about the appropriateness of their wardrobes, regularly makes the news. In Sudan, a female writer and activist successfully challenged the government over her right to wear trousers in public and in Europe, the debate on women’s headscarves has politicised a garment item and turned it into a symbol of fundamentalism and oppression. In response, the contributors to this book investigate the politics of fashion from a variety of perspectives, addressing theoretical as well as empirical issues, establishing the critical study of fashion and its protagonists as a central contribution to the aesthetic turn in international politics. The politics of fashion go beyond these examples of the uses and abuses of textiles and fabrics for political purposes, extending into its very ‘grammar’ and vocabulary. This book will be a unique contribution to the field and will be of interest to students and scholars of international relations, critical IR theory and popular culture and world politics.

"Craft, Community and the Material Culture of Place and Politics, 19th-20th Century "

Janice Helland
Craft Community and the Material Culture of Place and Politics 19th 20th Century Book PDF

Author : Janice Helland
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 246 pages
File Size : 41,9 Mb
Release : 2017-07-05
Category : Art
ISBN : 9781351570848

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"Craft, Community and the Material Culture of Place and Politics, 19th-20th Century " by Janice Helland Pdf

Craft practice has a rich history and remains vibrant, sustaining communities while negotiating cultures within local or international contexts. More than two centuries of industrialization have not extinguished handmade goods; rather, the broader force of industrialization has redefined and continues to define the context of creation, deployment and use of craft objects. With object study at the core, this book brings together a collection of essays that address the past and present of craft production, its use and meaning within a range of community settings from the Huron Wendat of colonial Quebec to the Girls? Friendly Society of twentieth-century England. The making of handcrafted objects has and continues to flourish despite the powerful juggernaut of global industrialization, whether inspired by a calculated refutation of industrial sameness, an essential means to sustain a cultural community under threat, or a rejection of the imposed definitions by a dominant culture. The broader effects of urbanizing, imperial and globalizing projects shape the multiple contexts of interaction and resistance that can define craft ventures through place and time. By attending to the political histories of craft objects and their makers, over the last few centuries, these essays reveal the creative persistence of various hand mediums and the material debates they represented.

Fashion and Politics

Djurdja Bartlett
Fashion and Politics Book PDF

Author : Djurdja Bartlett
Publisher : Yale University Press
Page : 241 pages
File Size : 49,5 Mb
Release : 2019-01-01
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780300238860

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Fashion and Politics by Djurdja Bartlett Pdf

In this incisive book, leaders from international fashion research and artistic practices probe the nuanced relationship between fashion and politics.

Dressing Global Bodies

Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello
Dressing Global Bodies Book PDF

Author : Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 328 pages
File Size : 43,5 Mb
Release : 2019-11-19
Category : History
ISBN : 9781351028721

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Dressing Global Bodies by Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello Pdf

Dressing Global Bodies addresses the complex politics of dress and fashion from a global perspective spanning four centuries, tying the early global to more contemporary times, to reveal clothing practice as a key cultural phenomenon and mechanism of defining one’s identity. This collection of essays explores how garments reflect the hierarchies of value, collective and personal inclinations, religious norms and conversions. Apparel is now recognized for its seminal role in global, colonial and post-colonial engagements and for its role in personal and collective expression. Patterns of exchange and commerce are discussed by contributing authors to analyse powerful and diverse colonial and postcolonial practices. This volume rejects assumptions surrounding a purportedly all-powerful Western metropolitan fashion system and instead aims to emphasize how diverse populations seized agency through the fashioning of dress. Dressing Global Bodies contributes to a growing scholarship considering gender and race, place and politics through the close critical analysis of dress and fashion; it is an indispensable volume for students of history and especially those interested in fashion, textiles, material culture and the body across a wide time frame.

Concepts of Value in European Material Culture, 1500-1900

Bert De Munck,Dries Lyna
Concepts of Value in European Material Culture 1500 1900 Book PDF

Author : Bert De Munck,Dries Lyna
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 317 pages
File Size : 41,8 Mb
Release : 2016-03-09
Category : History
ISBN : 9781317162391

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Concepts of Value in European Material Culture, 1500-1900 by Bert De Munck,Dries Lyna Pdf

In contemporary society it would seem self-evident that people allow the market to determine the values of products and services. For everything from a loaf of bread to a work of art to a simple haircut, value is expressed in monetary terms and seen as determined primarily by the 'objective' interplay between supply and demand. Yet this 'price-mechanism' is itself embedded in conventions and frames of reference which differed according to time, place and product type. Moreover, the dominance of the conventions of utility maximising and calculative homo economicus is a relatively new phenomenon, and one which directly correlates to the steady advent of capitalism in early modern Europe. This volume brings together scholars with expertise in a variety of related fields, including economic history, the history of consumption and material culture, art history, and the history of collecting, to explore changing concepts of value from the early modern period to the nineteenth century and present a new view on the advent of modern economic practices. Jointly, they fundamentally challenge traditional historical narratives about the rise of our contemporary market economy and consumer society.

A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment

Peter McNeil
A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment Book PDF

Author : Peter McNeil
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 288 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 2018-11-01
Category : History
ISBN : 9781350114128

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A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment by Peter McNeil Pdf

Eighteenth-century fashion was cosmopolitan and varied. Whilst the wildly extravagant and colorful elite fashions parodied in contemporary satire had significant influence on wider dress habits, more austere garments produced in darker fabrics also reflected the ascendancy of a puritan middle class as well as a more practical approach to dress. With the rise of print culture and reading publics, fashions were more quickly disseminated and debated than ever, and the appetite for fashion periodicals went hand in hand with a preoccupation with the emerging concept of taste. Richly illustrated with 100 images and drawing on pictorial, textual and object sources, A Cultural History of Dress and Fashion in the Age of Enlightenment presents essays on textiles, production and distribution, the body, belief, gender and sexuality, status, ethnicity, and visual and literary representations to illustrate the diversity and cultural significance of dress and fashion in the period.

Fashion Cultures Revisited

Stella Bruzzi,Pamela Church Gibson
Fashion Cultures Revisited Book PDF

Author : Stella Bruzzi,Pamela Church Gibson
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 420 pages
File Size : 52,8 Mb
Release : 2013-12-04
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781136474736

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Fashion Cultures Revisited by Stella Bruzzi,Pamela Church Gibson Pdf

Following on from the ground-breaking collection Fashion Cultures, this second anthology, Fashion Cultures Revisited, contains 26 newly commissioned chapters exploring fashion culture from the start of the new millennium to the present day. The book is divided into six parts, each discussing different aspects of fashion culture: Shopping, spaces and globalisation Changing imagery, changing media Altered landscapes, new modes of production Icons and their legacies Contestation, compliance, feminisms Making masculinities Fashion Cultures Revisited explores every facet of contemporary fashion culture and the associated spheres of photography, magazines and television, and shopping .Consequently it is an ideal companion to those interested in fashion studies, cultural studies, art, film, fashion history, sociology and gender studies.

Luxury, Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit

Klas Nyberg,Håkan Jakobsson
Luxury Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit Book PDF

Author : Klas Nyberg,Håkan Jakobsson
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 230 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2020-11-29
Category : Business & Economics
ISBN : 9781000282023

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Luxury, Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit by Klas Nyberg,Håkan Jakobsson Pdf

Luxury, Fashion and the Early Modern Idea of Credit addresses how social and cultural ideas about credit and trust, in the context of fashion and trade, were affected by the growth and development of the bankruptcy institution. Luxury, fashion and social standing are intimately connected to consumption on credit. Drawing on data from the fashion trade, this fascinating edited volume shows how the concepts of credit, trust and bankruptcy changed towards the end of the early modern period (1500−1800) and in the beginning of the modern period. Focusing on Sweden, with comparative material from France and other European countries, this volume draws together emerging and established scholars from across the fields of economic history and fashion. This book is an essential read for scholars in economic history, financial history, social history and European history.

Colors in Fashion

Jonathan Faiers,Mary Westerman Bulgarella
Colors in Fashion Book PDF

Author : Jonathan Faiers,Mary Westerman Bulgarella
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 53,7 Mb
Release : 2016-11-17
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781474273718

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Colors in Fashion by Jonathan Faiers,Mary Westerman Bulgarella Pdf

Color speaks a powerful cultural language, conveying political, sexual, and economic messages that, throughout history, have revealed how we relate to ourselves and our world. This ground-breaking compilation is the first to investigate how color in fashionable and ceremonial dress has played a significant social role, indicating acceptance and exclusion, convention and subversion. From the use of white in pioneering feminism to the penchant for black in post-war France, and from mystical scarlet broadcloth to the horrors of arsenic-laden green fashion, this publication demonstrates that color in dress is as mutable, nuanced, and varied as color itself. Divided into four thematic parts – solidarity, power, innovation, and desire – each section highlights the often violent, emotional histories of color in dress across geographical, temporal and cultural boundaries. Underlying today's relaxed attitude to color lies a chromatic complexity that speaks of wars, migrations and economics. While acknowledging the importance that technology has played in the development of new dyes, the chapters explore color as a catalyst for technical innovation that continues to inspire designers, artists, and performers. Bringing together cutting-edge contributions from leading scholars, it is essential reading for academics of fashion, textiles, design, cultural studies and art history.

Tradition and Innovation in English Retailing, 1700 to 1850

Ian Mitchell
Tradition and Innovation in English Retailing 1700 to 1850 Book PDF

Author : Ian Mitchell
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 278 pages
File Size : 52,8 Mb
Release : 2016-02-24
Category : History
ISBN : 9781317008491

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Tradition and Innovation in English Retailing, 1700 to 1850 by Ian Mitchell Pdf

Three decades of research into retailing in England from the seventeenth to nineteenth centuries has established a seemingly clear narrative: fixed shops were widespread from an early date; 'modern' methods of retailing were common from at least the early eighteenth century; shopping was a skilled activity throughout the period; and consumers were increasingly part of - and aware of being part of - a polite and fashionable culture. All of this is true, but is it the only narrative? Research has shown that markets were still important well into the nineteenth century and small scale producer-retailers co-existed with modern warehouses. Many shops were not smart. The development of modern retailing therefore was a fractured and fragmented process. This book presents a reassessment of the standard view by challenging the usefulness of concepts like 'traditional' and 'modern', examining consumption and retailing as inextricably linked aspects of a single process, and by using the idea of narrative to discuss the roles and perceptions of the various actors in this process - such as retailers, shoppers/consumers, local authorities and commentators. The book is therefore structured around some of these competing narratives in order to provide a richer and more varied picture of consumption and retailing in provincial England.

Creating African Fashion Histories

JoAnn McGregor,Heather M. Akou,Nicola Stylianou
Creating African Fashion Histories Book PDF

Author : JoAnn McGregor,Heather M. Akou,Nicola Stylianou
Publisher : Indiana University Press
Page : 299 pages
File Size : 47,5 Mb
Release : 2022-04-05
Category : Art
ISBN : 9780253060136

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Creating African Fashion Histories by JoAnn McGregor,Heather M. Akou,Nicola Stylianou Pdf

Creating African Fashion Histories examines the stark disjuncture between African self-fashioning and museum practices. Conventionally, African clothing, textiles, and body adornments were classified by museums as examples of trade goods, art, and ethnographic materials—never as "fashion." Counterposing the dynamism of African fashion with museums' historic holdings thus provides a unique way of confronting ways in which coloniality persists in knowledge and institutions today. This volume brings together an interdisciplinary group of scholars and curators to debate sources and approaches for constructing African fashion histories and to examine their potential for decolonizing museums, fashion studies, and global cultural history. The editors of this volume seek to answer questions such as: How can researchers use museum collections to reveal traces of past self-fashioning that are obscured by racialized forms of knowledge and institutional practice? How can archival, visual, oral, ethnographic, and online sources be deployed to capture the diversity of African sartorial pasts? How can scholars and curators decolonize the Eurocentric frames of thinking encapsulated in historic collections and current curricula? Can new collections of African fashion decolonize museum practice? From Moroccan fashion bloggers to upmarket Lagos designers, the voices in this ground-breaking collection reveal fascinating histories and geographies of circulation within and beyond the continent and its diasporic communities.

Material Lives

Serena Dyer
Material Lives Book PDF

Author : Serena Dyer
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 273 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 2021-01-28
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350127005

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Material Lives by Serena Dyer Pdf

Eighteenth-century women told their life stories through making. With its compelling stories of women's material experiences and practices, Material Lives offers a new perspective on eighteenth-century production and consumption. Genteel women's making has traditionally been seen as decorative, trivial and superficial. Yet their material archives, forged through fabric samples, watercolours, dressed prints and dolls' garments, reveal how women used the material culture of making to record and navigate their lives. Material Lives positions women as 'makers' in a consumer society. Through fragments of fabric and paper, Dyer explores an innovative way of accessing the lives of otherwise obscured women. For researchers and students of material culture, dress history, consumption, gender and women's history, it offers a rich resource to illuminate the power of needles, paintbrushes and scissors.

Clothing the Poor in Nineteenth-Century England

Vivienne Richmond
Clothing the Poor in Nineteenth Century England Book PDF

Author : Vivienne Richmond
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 368 pages
File Size : 41,6 Mb
Release : 2013-09-19
Category : History
ISBN : 9781107471405

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Clothing the Poor in Nineteenth-Century England by Vivienne Richmond Pdf

In this pioneering study Vivienne Richmond reveals the importance of dress to the nineteenth-century English poor, who valued clothing not only for its practical utility, but also as a central element in the creation and assertion of collective and individual identities. During this period of rapid industrialisation and urbanisation formal dress codes, corporate and institutional uniforms and the spread of urban fashions replaced the informal dress of agricultural England. This laid the foundations of modern popular dress and generated fears about the visual blurring of social boundaries as new modes of manufacturing and retailing expanded the wardrobes of the majority. But a significant impoverished minority remained outside this process. Clothed by diminishing parish assistance, expanding paternalistic charity and the second-hand trade, they formed a 'sartorial underclass' whose material deprivation and visual distinction was a cause of physical discomfort and psychological trauma.

Transatlantic Revolutionary Cultures, 1789-1861

Charlotte A. Lerg,Heléna Tóth
Transatlantic Revolutionary Cultures 1789 1861 Book PDF

Author : Charlotte A. Lerg,Heléna Tóth
Publisher : BRILL
Page : 289 pages
File Size : 49,9 Mb
Release : 2017-11-06
Category : History
ISBN : 9789004351561

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Transatlantic Revolutionary Cultures, 1789-1861 by Charlotte A. Lerg,Heléna Tóth Pdf

Transatlantic Revolutionary Cultures, 1789-1861 makes an interdisciplinary contribution to the cultural and intellectual history of the long nineteenth century. It argues that the cultural dimensions of the political and social upheavals in Europe and the Americas were fundamentally transnational.