Dressing The Past

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Dressing the Past

Author : Margarita Gleba,Cherine Munkholt,Marie-Louise Nosch
Publisher : Oxbow Books
Page : 167 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 2008-03-10
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781782974727

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Dressing the Past by Margarita Gleba,Cherine Munkholt,Marie-Louise Nosch Pdf

Minoan ladies, Scythian warriors, Roman and Sarmatian merchants, prehistoric weavers, gold sheet figures, Vikings, Medieval saints and sinners, Renaissance noblemen, Danish peasants, dressmakers and Hollywood stars appear in the pages of this anthology. This is not necessarily how they dressed in the past, but how the authors of this book think they dressed in the past, and why they think so. No reader of this book will ever look at a reconstructed costume in a museum or at a historical festival, or watch a film with a historic theme again without a heightened awareness of how, why, and from what sources, the costumes were reconstructed. The seventeen contributors come from a variety of disciplines: archaeologists, historians, curators with ethnological and anthropological backgrounds, designers, a weaver, a conservator and a scholar of fashion in cinema, are all specialists interested in ancient or historical dress who wish to share their knowledge and expertise with students, hobby enthusiasts and the general reader. The anthology is also recommended for use in teaching students at design schools.

Re-Dressing America’s Frontier Past

Author : Peter Boag
Publisher : Univ of California Press
Page : 272 pages
File Size : 54,5 Mb
Release : 2012-09
Category : History
ISBN : 9780520274426

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Re-Dressing America’s Frontier Past by Peter Boag Pdf

“An important, persuasive, and fascinating intervention in the literature on the American frontier." —Lisa Duggan, author of The Twilight of Equality? Neoliberalism, Cultural Politics, and the Attack on Democracy “Peter Boag's Re-dressing America's Frontier Past does just that: it re-imagines the American West as a place where cross-dressing is abundant and its meanings are as varied as the individuals themselves. Vividly written and broad in scope, Boag's compelling narrative debunks the gendered myths of the west and writes hundreds of stories back into history.” —Nan Alamilla Boyd, author of Wide-Open Town: A History of Queer San Francisco to 1965 “Peter Boag’s Re-Dressing America’s Frontier Past invites readers to reimagine fundamental ideas about sex, gender, and the history of the American West. Brilliant and perceptive, Boag rediscovers a past that once existed but that was forgotten as new ideas about sexuality emerged in the early twentieth century. Boag makes the lives of the West’s many cross-dressers central to his narrative, and the world they reveal gives us an opportunity to understand history in ways that are more comprehensive and humane. Boag's book sheds new light on the American frontier as well as the history of sex and gender.” —Albert Hurtado, author of Intimate Frontiers: Sex, Gender, and Culture in Old California “Peter Boag uncovers the rich and heretofore hidden history of cross dressers with wit and wisdom, humor and humanity. He adds another crucial layer to our understanding of the West's complicated gendered past and in the process demolishes the region's mythical identity as a virile, white, masculine, heterosexual frontier. The book illuminates the sources of that limited view and liberates us from it.” —Sherry L. Smith, author of Reimaging Indians: Native Americans Through Anglo Eyes, 1880-1940 “A fascinating excursion into a side of western life rarely acknowledged today but surprisingly open and remarked upon at the time. Boag's thoughts on the reasons for the historical blurring are as provocative as his stories are intriguing and often poignant.” —Elliott West, author of The Last Indian War: The Nez Perce Story “This book by the foremost historian of sexuality in the American West is a classic before its time. The history of Westerns cross-dressing is placed within numerous historical contexts, deeply researched, and presented with multiple nuances and thorough analysis. At the same time, we learn of the personal, of the many people who might never have had their significant stories. A stellar and stunning work!” —John R. Wunder, author of “Writing of Race, Class, Gender, and Power in the American West” in North America: Tensions and (Re)Solutions “Original and provocative—Boag finds ample evidence of women and men in western towns and cities who challenged familiar binaries of heteronormative manhood and womanhood through cross-dressing, same-sex intimacy, and trans-gendered identities. But the real story is how communities made meaning of these identities. Boag links sexologists’ promotion of heteronormativity with notions of a redemptive frontier, anti-modernism, and national identity. The results are entirely new perspectives on the imagined West and its place in American history.” —Dee Garceau-Hagen, editor of Across the Great Divide: Cultures of Manhood in the American West

Fashion Victims

Author : Alison Matthews David
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 420 pages
File Size : 51,7 Mb
Release : 2015-09-24
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781472577740

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Fashion Victims by Alison Matthews David Pdf

From insidious murder weapons to blaze-igniting crinolines, clothing has been the cause of death, disease and madness throughout history, by accident and design. Clothing is designed to protect, shield and comfort us, yet lurking amongst seemingly innocuous garments we find hats laced with mercury, frocks laden with arsenic and literally 'drop-dead gorgeous' gowns. Fabulously gory and gruesome, Fashion Victims takes the reader on a fascinating journey through the lethal history of women's, men's and children's dress, in myth and reality. Drawing upon surviving fashion objects and numerous visual and textual sources, encompassing louse-ridden military uniforms, accounts of the fiery deaths of Oscar Wilde's half-sisters and dancer Isadora Duncan's accidental strangulation by entangled scarf; the book explores how garments have tormented those who made and wore them, and harmed animals and the environment in the process. Vividly chronicling evidence from Greek mythology to the present day, Matthews David puts everyday apparel under the microscope and unpicks the dark side of fashion. Fashion Victims is lavishly illustrated with over 125 images and is a remarkable resource for everyone from scholars and students to fashion enthusiasts.

Ancient Textiles

Author : Marie-Louise Nosch,C. Gillis
Publisher : Oxbow Books
Page : 304 pages
File Size : 47,6 Mb
Release : 2007-03-10
Category : Social Science
ISBN : 9781782974390

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Ancient Textiles by Marie-Louise Nosch,C. Gillis Pdf

An understanding of textiles and the role they played in the past is important for anyone interested in past societies. Textiles served and in fact still do as both functional and symbolic items. The evidence for ancient textiles in Europe is split quite definitely along a north-south divide, with an abundance of actual examples in the north, but precious little in the south, where indirect evidence comes from such things as vase painting and frescoes. This volume brings together these two schools to look in more detail at textiles in the ancient world, and is based on a conference held in Denmark and Sweden in March 2003. Section one, Production and Organisation takes a chronological look through more than four thousand years of history; from Syria in the mid-third millennium BC, to Seventeenth Century Germany. Section two, Crafts and Technology focuses on the relationship between the primary producer (the craftsman) and the secondary receiver (the archaeologist/conservator). The third section, Society, examines the symbolic nature of textiles, and their place within ancient societal groups. Throughout the book emphasis is placed on the universality of textiles, and the importance of information exchange between scholars from different disciplines. A small book on finds First Aid for the Excavation of Archaeological Textiles is included as an Appendix.

The Last Time I Wore a Dress

Author : Daphne Scholinski,Jane Meredith Adams
Publisher : Riverhead Books
Page : 226 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 1998-10
Category : Biography & Autobiography
ISBN : CHI:70301501

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The Last Time I Wore a Dress by Daphne Scholinski,Jane Meredith Adams Pdf

At 15, Daphne Scholinski was committed to a mental institution and awarded the dubious diagnosis of "Gender Identity Disorder". "The voice of Daphne's teenage self--bewildered, frank, aching, and defiant--is so vivid it's like hearing a confidence whispered across a dormitory room deep in the night".--"Harper's Bazaar".

Dressing the Decades

Author : Emmanuelle Dirix
Publisher : Yale University Press
Page : 225 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 2016-01-01
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780300215526

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Dressing the Decades by Emmanuelle Dirix Pdf

Includes Paul Poiret, Jeanne Paquin, Jeanne Margaine-Lacroix, Maison Lucile, Coco Chanel, Jacques Doucet, Jean Patou, Callot Soeurs, Jeanne Lanvin, Madeleine Vionnet, Elsa Schiaparelli, Adrian, Christian Dior, Madame Gr{grave}es, Charles James, Crist{acute}obal Balenciaga, Hubert de Givenchy, Pierre Balmain, Pierre Cardin, Emilio Pucci, Yves Saint Laurent, Halston, Ralph Lauren, Kenzo, Christian Lacroix, Thierry Mugler, Yohji Yamamoto, Gianni Versace, Calvin Klein, Martin Margiela, and others.

The Lost Art of Dress

Author : Linda Przybyszewski
Publisher : Basic Books
Page : 400 pages
File Size : 47,5 Mb
Release : 2014-04-29
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780465080472

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The Lost Art of Dress by Linda Przybyszewski Pdf

A history of the women who taught Americans how to dress in the first half of the 20th century—and whose lessons we’d do well to remember today.

Material Lives

Author : Serena Dyer
Publisher : Bloomsbury Publishing
Page : 273 pages
File Size : 41,9 Mb
Release : 2021-01-28
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781350126985

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Material Lives by Serena Dyer Pdf

Eighteenth-century women told their life stories through making. With its compelling stories of women's material experiences and practices, Material Lives offers a new perspective on eighteenth-century production and consumption. Genteel women's making has traditionally been seen as decorative, trivial and superficial. Yet their material archives, forged through fabric samples, watercolours, dressed prints and dolls' garments, reveal how women used the material culture of making to record and navigate their lives. Material Lives positions women as 'makers' in a consumer society. Through fragments of fabric and paper, Dyer explores an innovative way of accessing the lives of otherwise obscured women. For researchers and students of material culture, dress history, consumption, gender and women's history, it offers a rich resource to illuminate the power of needles, paintbrushes and scissors.

Dressing with Purpose

Author : Carrie Hertz
Publisher : Indiana University Press
Page : 500 pages
File Size : 50,8 Mb
Release : 2021-12-21
Category : Design
ISBN : 9780253058591

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Dressing with Purpose by Carrie Hertz Pdf

Dress helps us fashion identity, history, community, and place. Dress has been harnessed as a metaphor for both progress and stability, the exotic and the utopian, oppression and freedom, belonging and resistance. Dressing with Purpose examines three Scandinavian dress traditions—Swedish folkdräkt, Norwegian bunad, and Sámi gákti—and traces their development during two centuries of social and political change across northern Europe. By the 20th century, many in Sweden worried about the ravages of industrialization, urbanization, and emigration on traditional ways of life. Norway was gripped in a struggle for national independence. Indigenous Sámi communities—artificially divided by national borders and long resisting colonial control—rose up in protests that demanded political recognition and sparked cultural renewal. Within this context of European nation-building, colonial expansion, and Indigenous activism, traditional dress took on special meaning as folk, national, or ethnic minority costumes—complex categories that deserve reexamination today. Through lavishly illustrated and richly detailed case studies, Dressing with Purpose introduces readers to individuals who adapt and revitalize dress traditions to articulate who they are, proclaim personal values and group allegiances, strive for sartorial excellence, reflect critically on the past, and ultimately, reshape the societies they live in.

Dressing Global Bodies

Author : Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello
Publisher : Routledge
Page : 328 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2019-11-19
Category : History
ISBN : 9781351028721

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Dressing Global Bodies by Beverly Lemire,Giorgio Riello Pdf

Dressing Global Bodies addresses the complex politics of dress and fashion from a global perspective spanning four centuries, tying the early global to more contemporary times, to reveal clothing practice as a key cultural phenomenon and mechanism of defining one’s identity. This collection of essays explores how garments reflect the hierarchies of value, collective and personal inclinations, religious norms and conversions. Apparel is now recognized for its seminal role in global, colonial and post-colonial engagements and for its role in personal and collective expression. Patterns of exchange and commerce are discussed by contributing authors to analyse powerful and diverse colonial and postcolonial practices. This volume rejects assumptions surrounding a purportedly all-powerful Western metropolitan fashion system and instead aims to emphasize how diverse populations seized agency through the fashioning of dress. Dressing Global Bodies contributes to a growing scholarship considering gender and race, place and politics through the close critical analysis of dress and fashion; it is an indispensable volume for students of history and especially those interested in fashion, textiles, material culture and the body across a wide time frame.

Dress and Personal Appearance in Late Antiquity

Author : Faith Pennick Morgan
Publisher : BRILL
Page : 262 pages
File Size : 46,5 Mb
Release : 2018-01-22
Category : History
ISBN : 9789004353466

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Dress and Personal Appearance in Late Antiquity by Faith Pennick Morgan Pdf

Dress and Personal Appearance in Late Antiquity. The Clothing of the Middle and Lower Classes examines written, art historical and archaeological evidence to understand the way that cloth and clothing was made, embellished, cared for and recycled during this period.

Dressing the Colonised Body

Author : Nira Wickramasinghe
Publisher : Orient Blackswan
Page : 188 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 2003
Category : Design
ISBN : 8125024794

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Dressing the Colonised Body by Nira Wickramasinghe Pdf

This Book Explores Popular, Political And Symbolic Meanings Assigned To Dress In A Variety Of Colonial Contexts In Sri Lanka; Thus It Focuses On The Politics Of Nationalism And Identity Under Late Colonialism. Proceeding From The Understanding That Self-Representation Is At Its Peak At The Moment Of Political Independence, The Author Examines The Lineages That Exist Between That Moment In Sri Lanka And The Colonial Past, As Also The Meaning Of The Commemorations That Took Place On Independence Day.

The Art of Dressing Curves

Author : Susan Moses
Publisher : HarperCollins
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 53,8 Mb
Release : 2016-05-03
Category : Self-Help
ISBN : 9780062362049

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The Art of Dressing Curves by Susan Moses Pdf

Susan Moses, the go-to celebrity stylist for curvy women both on and off the red carpet presents the first inspirational, confidence-building, prescriptive style guide for plus-size women who want to dress fashionably and look their beautiful best. Nearly two-thirds of American women are plus-size—and they care just as much about fashion and beauty as their thinner counterparts. They’re tired of being ignored by the industry and shopping for styles wedged into the far reaches of department stores. Now, Susan Moses, a plus-size woman with a dynamic personality and an in-demand stylist whose clientele includes Hollywood and music industry celebrities, addresses this audience’s needs with this essential handbook to help them look fabulous. The Art of Dressing Curves gives plus-size women the confidence and know-how to dress beautifully for their particular body shape. Gorgeously designed, filled with high-fashion photography, and written in Susan’s down-to earth, accessible, and enthusiastic voice, The Art of Dressing Curves tells the story of her journey to self-acceptance and outlines her formula for seamless dressing that has helped some of the most iconic curvy women in music, film, and fashion look dazzling in the spotlight. From foundation garments to wardrobe essentials to hair and makeup, Susan dispenses advice on every aspect of dressing well for one’s shape, size, and personality, insight supplemented by a wealth of elegant editorial photographs, anecdotes, tips, and sidebars, as well as lists of specialty retailers, designers, and websites that cater to plus-size.

Regency Women's Dress

Author : Cassidy Percoco
Publisher : Batsford Books
Page : 319 pages
File Size : 48,6 Mb
Release : 2015-09-17
Category : Design
ISBN : 9781849943512

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Regency Women's Dress by Cassidy Percoco Pdf

The distinctive style of the Regency period is a source of endless fascination for fashion academics and historians, living historians, re-enactors and costume designers for stage and screen. Author and fashion historian Cassidy Percoco has delved into little-known museum hoards to create a stunning collection of 26 garments, many with clear provenance tied to a specific location, which have never before been published and never – or very rarely – displayed. Most of the garments have an aspect in their construction that has not been previously documented, from a style of skirt trim to the method of gown closure. This practical guide begins with a general history of the early 19th-century women's dress. This is followed by 26 patterns of gowns, spencers, chemises, and corsets, each with an illustration of the finished piece and description of its construction. This must-have guide is an essential reference for anyone interested in the fashions or the history of the period, or for anyone wishing to recreate their own beautiful Regency clothing.

Fashions of the Past

Author : Anna Buruma
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 128 pages
File Size : 51,9 Mb
Release : 2000
Category : Costume
ISBN : 1855857235

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Fashions of the Past by Anna Buruma Pdf

Meticulously drawn and based on a variety of sources, the illustrations provide a guide to the history and development of dress. Beginning with ancient history through to the 19th century, each illustration is accompanied by a description.