Ocean Waves

Author : Michel K. Ochi
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 332 pages
File Size : 46,8 Mb
Release : 2005-07-21
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 052101767X

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Ocean Waves by Michel K. Ochi Pdf

Waves observed in the ocean are extremely irregular and, from a physics standpoint, it seems impossible to describe this chaotic situation. Scientists can describe the situation by means of a stochastic approach. This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves--information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.

Author : Stacy McAnulty
Publisher : Henry Holt and Company (BYR)
Page : 21 pages
File Size : 54,6 Mb
Release : 2020-05-05
Category : Juvenile Nonfiction
ISBN : 9781250788863

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Ocean! Waves for All by Stacy McAnulty Pdf

From writer Stacy McAnulty and illustrator David Litchfield, Ocean! Waves for All is a light-hearted nonfiction picture book about the formation and history of the ocean, told from the perspective of the ocean itself. Dude. Ocean is incredible. Atlantic, Pacific, Artic, Indian, Southern—it's all excellent Ocean! Not part of any nation, his waves are for all. And under those waves, man, he holds so many secrets. With characteristic humor and charm, Stacy McAnulty channels the voice of Ocean in this next "autobiography" in the Our Universe series. Rich with kid-friendly facts and beautifully brought to life by David Litchfield, this is an equally charming and irresistible companion to Earth! My First 4.54 Billion Years; Sun! One in a Billion; and Moon! Earth's Best Friend.

Author : J. B. Zirker
Publisher : JHU Press
Page : 263 pages
File Size : 41,9 Mb
Release : 2013-12-18
Category : Nature
ISBN : 9781421410784

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The Science of Ocean Waves by J. B. Zirker Pdf

Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible."--New Scientist

Author : Johannes Falnes,Adi Kurniawan
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 319 pages
File Size : 54,8 Mb
Release : 2020-05-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781108481663

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Ocean Waves and Oscillating Systems by Johannes Falnes,Adi Kurniawan Pdf

Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.

Author : Peter Janssen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 310 pages
File Size : 41,9 Mb
Release : 2004-10-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780521465403

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The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind by Peter Janssen Pdf

This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

Author : Efim Pelinovsky,Christian Kharif
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 200 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 2008-06-27
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781402083143

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Extreme Ocean Waves by Efim Pelinovsky,Christian Kharif Pdf

Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.

Author : I.R. Young
Publisher : Elsevier
Page : 307 pages
File Size : 47,9 Mb
Release : 1999-03-23
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780080543802

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Wind Generated Ocean Waves by I.R. Young Pdf

The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.

Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 332 pages
File Size : 42,8 Mb
Release : 2007-10-10
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780387690926

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Ocean Waves Breaking and Marine Aerosol Fluxes by Stanislaw R. Massel Pdf

This book fills a gap in knowledge of breaking waves and their influence on the generation of marine fluxes from ocean surfaces. Based on published data as well as on the author's experience, the text explores in detail the relationship chain of breaking waves, whitecaps coverage, rate of wave energy dissipation, amount of aerosol fluxes rising from a given sea basin, and possible seasonal variations.

Author : Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 9 pages
File Size : 40,7 Mb
Release : 2010-02-04
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781139462525

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters by Leo H. Holthuijsen Pdf

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Author : Clark Little
Publisher : Ten Speed Press
Page : 241 pages
File Size : 52,8 Mb
Release : 2022-04-05
Category : Photography
ISBN : 9781984859785

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Clark Little by Clark Little Pdf

Instagram sensation Clark Little shares his most remarkable photographs from inside the breaking wave, with a foreword by world surfing champion Kelly Slater. “One of the world’s most amazing water photographers . . . Now we get to experience up-close these moments of bliss.”—Jack Johnson, musician and environmentalist Surfer and photographer Clark Little creates deceptively peaceful pictures of waves by placing himself under the deadly lip as it is about to hit the sand. "Clark's view" is a rare and dangerous perspective of waves from the inside out. Thanks to his uncanny ability to get the perfect shot--and live to share it--Little has garnered a devout audience, been the subject of award-winning documentaries, and become one of the world's most recognizable wave photographers. Clark Little: The Art of Waves compiles over 150 of his images, including crystalline breaking waves, the diverse marine life of Hawaii, and mind-blowing aerial photography. This collection features his most beloved pictures, as well as work that has never been published in book form, with Little's stories and insights throughout. Journalist Jamie Brisick contributes essays on how Clark gets the shot, how waves are created, swimming with sharks, and more. With a foreword by eleven-time world surfing champion Kelly Slater and an afterword by the author on his photographic practice and technique, Clark Little: The Art of Waves offers a rare view of the wave for us to enjoy from the safety of land.

Author : Stanislaw R. Massel
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 514 pages
File Size : 51,5 Mb
Release : 1996
Category : Science
ISBN : 9810221096

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Ocean Surface Waves by Stanislaw R. Massel Pdf

This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.

Author : Evan Slater
Publisher : Chronicle Books
Page : 148 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 2012-05-09
Category : Photography
ISBN : 9781452105932

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Swell by Evan Slater Pdf

Wave watchers around the world know that no two waves are the same. Yet each and every wave that rises, peaks, and crashes onto the beach is generated by a much larger force originating thousands of miles away. Surf journalist team Evan Slater and Peter Taras capture the essence of waves and the swells that produce them in this breathtaking collection of wave photography. Slater characterizes four distinct swells from different corners of the globe and traces their journeys throughout the year from storm to seashore. His reflective, informative essays amplify these powerful images of hundreds of waves frozen in time, beautiful, simple, universal, yet wholly unique—and the best thing to watch on the planet.

Author : Eugene A. Sharkov
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 295 pages
File Size : 45,8 Mb
Release : 2007-10-14
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783540298281

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Breaking Ocean Waves by Eugene A. Sharkov Pdf

Eugene Sharkov, of the Space Research Institute in Moscow, has here put together the most comprehensive description of the physical findings of an investigation into the spatio-temporal characteristics of the gravity of breaking waves. He’s also described the foam activity in the open sea using methods and instruments of optical and microwave remote sensing. Numerous practical applications and illustrations are provided from air-borne, ship-borne and laboratory up-to-date experiments.

Author : Christian Kharif,Efim Pelinovsky,Alexey Slunyaev
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 222 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2008-12-11
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783540884194

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Rogue Waves in the Ocean by Christian Kharif,Efim Pelinovsky,Alexey Slunyaev Pdf

“It came from nowhere, snapping giant ships in two. No one believed the survivors . . . until now” —New Scientist magazine cover, June 30, 2001 Rogue waves are the focus of this book. They are among the waves naturally - served by people on the sea surface that represent an inseparable feature of the Ocean. Rogue waves appear from nowhere, cause danger, and disappear at once. They may occur on the surface of a relatively calm sea and not reach very high amplitudes, but still be fatal for ships and crew due to their unexpectedness and abnormal features. Seamen are known to be unsurpassed authors of exciting and horrifying stories about the sea and sea waves. This could explain why, despite the increasing number of documented cases, that sailors’ observations of “walls of - ter” have been considered ctitious for a while. These stories are now addressed again due to the amount of doubtless evidence of the existence of the phenomenon, but still without suf cient information to - able interested researchers and engineers to completely understand it. The billows appear suddenly, exceeding the surrounding waves by two times their size and more, and obtaining many names: abnormal, exceptional, extreme, giant, huge, s- den, episodic, freak, monster, rogue, vicious, killer, mad- or rabid-dog waves, cape rollers, holes in the sea, walls of water, three sisters, etc.

Author : David H. Shonting
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 350 pages
File Size : 54,6 Mb
Release : 1967
Category : Ocean waves
ISBN : CHI:095505786

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Observations of Particle Motions in Ocean Waves by David H. Shonting Pdf