Wind Generated Ocean Waves

Author : I.R. Young
Publisher : Elsevier
Page : 307 pages
File Size : 41,7 Mb
Release : 1999-03-23
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780080543802

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Wind Generated Ocean Waves by I.R. Young Pdf

The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.

Author : Peter Janssen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 310 pages
File Size : 42,6 Mb
Release : 2004-10-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780521465403

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The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind by Peter Janssen Pdf

This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.

Author : Gerhard Neumann
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 152 pages
File Size : 49,7 Mb
Release : 1952
Category : Ocean waves
ISBN : UCSD:31822005679964

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On Wind Generated Ocean Waves with Special Reference to the Problem of Wave Forecasting by Gerhard Neumann Pdf

Author : New York University School of Engineeri,United States Office of Naval Research,Gerhard 1911- College of Engin Neumann
Publisher : Palala Press
Page : 144 pages
File Size : 48,8 Mb
Release : 2015-09-06
Category : Electronic
ISBN : 1341774139

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On Wind Generated Ocean Waves with Special Reference to the Problem of Wave Forecasting by New York University School of Engineeri,United States Office of Naval Research,Gerhard 1911- College of Engin Neumann Pdf

This work has been selected by scholars as being culturally important, and is part of the knowledge base of civilization as we know it. This work was reproduced from the original artifact, and remains as true to the original work as possible. Therefore, you will see the original copyright references, library stamps (as most of these works have been housed in our most important libraries around the world), and other notations in the work. This work is in the public domain in the United States of America, and possibly other nations. Within the United States, you may freely copy and distribute this work, as no entity (individual or corporate) has a copyright on the body of the work.As a reproduction of a historical artifact, this work may contain missing or blurred pages, poor pictures, errant marks, etc. Scholars believe, and we concur, that this work is important enough to be preserved, reproduced, and made generally available to the public. We appreciate your support of the preservation process, and thank you for being an important part of keeping this knowledge alive and relevant.

Author : Ian Young,Alexander Babanin
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 396 pages
File Size : 44,8 Mb
Release : 2020-03-20
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811208683

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Ocean Wave Dynamics by Ian Young,Alexander Babanin Pdf

Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)

Author : Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 9 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 2010-02-04
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781139462525

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Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters by Leo H. Holthuijsen Pdf

Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.

Author : Michel K. Ochi
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 332 pages
File Size : 51,6 Mb
Release : 2005-07-21
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 052101767X

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Ocean Waves by Michel K. Ochi Pdf

Waves observed in the ocean are extremely irregular and, from a physics standpoint, it seems impossible to describe this chaotic situation. Scientists can describe the situation by means of a stochastic approach. This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves--information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.

Author : The SWAMP Group
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 48,6 Mb
Release : 2013-11-22
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781475760552

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Ocean Wave Modeling by The SWAMP Group Pdf

Early in 1979, a group of wave researchers proposed a wave model inter comparison study to clarify the interrelations existing among the various wave models which have been developed in past years for real-time wave forecasting, wave statistics compilations, or hindcast case studies. The idea was immediately welcomed by the wave modeling community, and, finally, nine wave modeling groups from the United States, Japan, and Europe participated in the exercise. The principal results of this work are presented here jointly by the Sea Wave Modeling Project (swAMP) Group (the members of which are listed in Appendix A). Descriptions of the models used in the study are given in Part II of this volume. A more complete documentation of the entire set of numerical experiments is given in Part 2 of the Sea Wave Modeling Project (SWAMP group, 1982). The main purpose of the intercomparison study was to test our present understanding of the physics of . wind-generated surface waves from the viewpoint of wave modeling. Specifically, we wished to clarify the basic interdependence between understanding the physics of surface waves, repre senting the physics numerically, and predicting quantitatively the detailed space-time evolution of a two-dimensional surface wave spectrum for a given wind field. It was not our intent to carry out a model competition. In this sense there were no winners or losers: all models could claim specific strong points, and all displayed weaknesses in some areas.

Author : Blair Kinsman
Publisher : Courier Corporation
Page : 706 pages
File Size : 51,5 Mb
Release : 1984-01-01
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780486646527

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Wind Waves by Blair Kinsman Pdf

In this classic study, a renowned student of ocean wave theory examines the data requirements and details of the power spectral analysis required to make the wave revolution intelligible. Although the discussions center on waves, once the techniques are understood, they can be applied to many other areas. After outlining the nature of waves and wave processes and their methods of measurement and classification, the author provides a detailed exploration that relies heavily on mathematical models. Topics include perturbations of irrotational motion, energy considerations, wave generations by wind, and much more. The text is enhanced and clarified by 270 photos, figures, and tables. A helpful bibliography and indexes conclude this indispensable addition to the oceanographer's library.

Author : Igor Lavrenov
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 381 pages
File Size : 50,7 Mb
Release : 2013-11-11
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783662051467

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Wind-Waves in Oceans by Igor Lavrenov Pdf

The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.

Author : G. J. Komen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 558 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 1994-09-15
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780521470476

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Dynamics and Modelling of Ocean Waves by G. J. Komen Pdf

A comprehensive introduction and reference prepared by the world's leading ocean wave modellers.

Author : Arthur Pecher,Jens Peter Kofoed
Publisher : Springer
Page : 287 pages
File Size : 53,6 Mb
Release : 2016-12-07
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 9783319398891

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Handbook of Ocean Wave Energy by Arthur Pecher,Jens Peter Kofoed Pdf

This book is open access under a CC BY-NC 2.5 license. This book offers a concise, practice-oriented reference-guide to the field of ocean wave energy. The ten chapters highlight the key rules of thumb, address all the main technical engineering aspects and describe in detail all the key aspects to be considered in the techno-economic assessment of wave energy converters. Written in an easy-to-understand style, the book answers questions relevant to readers of different backgrounds, from developers, private and public investors, to students and researchers. It is thereby a valuable resource for both newcomers and experienced practitioners in the wave energy sector.

Author : Gerhard Neumann
Publisher : Unknown
Page : 50 pages
File Size : 55,7 Mb
Release : 1953
Category : Beach erosion
ISBN : UIUC:30112110789424

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On Ocean Wave Spectra and a New Method of Forecasting Wind-generated Sea by Gerhard Neumann Pdf

Author : Alexander Babanin
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 479 pages
File Size : 48,5 Mb
Release : 2011-05-19
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781139502726

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Breaking and Dissipation of Ocean Surface Waves by Alexander Babanin Pdf

Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.

Author : David Hopley
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 1226 pages
File Size : 45,8 Mb
Release : 2010-11-26
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789048126385

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Encyclopedia of Modern Coral Reefs by David Hopley Pdf

Coral reefs are the largest landforms built by plants and animals. Their study therefore incorporates a wide range of disciplines. This encyclopedia approaches coral reefs from an earth science perspective, concentrating especially on modern reefs. Currently coral reefs are under high stress, most prominently from climate change with changes to water temperature, sea level and ocean acidification particularly damaging. Modern reefs have evolved through the massive environmental changes of the Quaternary with long periods of exposure during glacially lowered sea level periods and short periods of interglacial growth. The entries in this encyclopedia condense the large amount of work carried out since Charles Darwin first attempted to understand reef evolution. Leading authorities from many countries have contributed to the entries covering areas of geology, geography and ecology, providing comprehensive access to the most up-to-date research on the structure, form and processes operating on Quaternary coral reefs.