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Author : J. B. Zirker
Publisher : JHU Press
Page : 263 pages
File Size : 40,5 Mb
Release : 2013-12-18
Category : Nature
ISBN : 9781421410784
Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible."--New Scientist
Author : Peter Janssen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 310 pages
File Size : 55,8 Mb
Release : 2004-10-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780521465403
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author : I.R. Young
Publisher : Elsevier
Page : 307 pages
File Size : 40,6 Mb
Release : 1999-03-23
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780080543802
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Author : Efim Pelinovsky,Christian Kharif
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 200 pages
File Size : 52,5 Mb
Release : 2008-06-27
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781402083143
Extreme, freak or rogue waves are produced by a number of physical mechanisms that focus the water-wave energy into a small area, due to wave instability, chaotic behaviour, dispersion (frequency modulation), refraction (presence of variable currents or bottom topography), soliton interactions, etc. During the past thirty years a number of physical models of the rogue wave phenomenon have been intensively developed. Numerous experimental, statistical and theoretical investigations are intended to understand the physics of the huge wave formation, its relation to the environmental conditions and to provide a freak wave design for engineering purposes. The book details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of freak waves due to modulation instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of rogue wave generation in deep water and in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between observations and freak wave theories. The book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Author : Stacy McAnulty
Publisher : Henry Holt and Company (BYR)
Page : 21 pages
File Size : 45,6 Mb
Release : 2020-05-05
Category : Juvenile Nonfiction
ISBN : 9781250788863
From writer Stacy McAnulty and illustrator David Litchfield, Ocean! Waves for All is a light-hearted nonfiction picture book about the formation and history of the ocean, told from the perspective of the ocean itself. Dude. Ocean is incredible. Atlantic, Pacific, Artic, Indian, Southern—it's all excellent Ocean! Not part of any nation, his waves are for all. And under those waves, man, he holds so many secrets. With characteristic humor and charm, Stacy McAnulty channels the voice of Ocean in this next "autobiography" in the Our Universe series. Rich with kid-friendly facts and beautifully brought to life by David Litchfield, this is an equally charming and irresistible companion to Earth! My First 4.54 Billion Years; Sun! One in a Billion; and Moon! Earth's Best Friend.
Author : Johannes Falnes,Adi Kurniawan
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 319 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2020-05-28
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781108481663
Understand the absorption of energy from ocean waves by means of oscillating systems with this useful new edition. Essential for engineers, researchers, and graduate students, and an indispensable tool for those who work in this field.
Author : J. B. Zirker
Publisher : JHU Press
Page : 263 pages
File Size : 46,5 Mb
Release : 2013-12-18
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781421410791
An unparalleled introduction to the amazing world of ocean waves. Outstanding Academic Title, Choice "Powerful ocean waves fascinate the public, and they have made a lot of news lately." With that indisputable observation, scientist J. B. Zirker takes off on a whirlwind tour of the world of waves—from the “ordinary” waves that constantly churn the sea to the rogues or freaks that can rise up seemingly from nowhere to heights of 20 meters or more . . . and everything in between. Addressing questions most ocean visitors have had and offering new ones for our consideration, The Science of Ocean Waves explains in accessible language how waves are formed, how they move, how they become huge and destructive, and how they're being studied now for clues that will help us plan for the future. Devoting chapters to wind, tides, currents, breakers, tsunamis, forecasting, renewable energy, and El Niño—as well as discussing the gentler properties of ocean waves which inspire us and offer opportunities for relaxation and recreation—Zirker explores the physical factors that create waves. Drawing on some of the recent storms that have devastated entire regions—such as Hurricane Katrina, the tsunami launched by the 2004 Sumatran earthquake, and the great tsunami that crushed the shore of Japan in 2011—Zirker explains the forces that cause these monster waves and reveals the toll they take on human lives. Enhanced by dozens of illustrations and a comprehensive glossary, The Science of Ocean Waves will fascinate anyone curious about the science behind the headlines. Praise for J. B. Zirker “Scientists know their stuff but are rarely good storytellers, whereas good storytellers rarely possess the necessary sweeping command of a scientific discipline. Zirker is that rare animal who can both communicate the most demanding technical detail and make it accessible.”—New Scientist
Author : Michel K. Ochi
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 332 pages
File Size : 47,7 Mb
Release : 2005-07-21
Category : Technology & Engineering
ISBN : 052101767X
Waves observed in the ocean are extremely irregular and, from a physics standpoint, it seems impossible to describe this chaotic situation. Scientists can describe the situation by means of a stochastic approach. This book describes the stochastic method for ocean wave analysis. This method provides a route to predicting the characteristics of random ocean waves--information vital for the design and safe operation of ships and ocean structures. Assuming a basic knowledge of probability theory, the book begins with a chapter describing the essential elements of wind-generated random seas from the stochastic point of view. The following three chapters introduce spectral analysis techniques, probabilistic predictions of wave amplitudes, wave height and periodicity. A further four chapters discuss sea severity, extreme sea state, the directional wave energy spreading in random seas and special wave events such as wave breaking and group phenomena. Finally the stochastic properties of non-Gaussian waves are presented. Useful appendices and an extensive reference list are included. Examples of practical applications of the theories presented can be found throughout the text. This book will be suitable as a text for graduate students of naval, ocean and coastal engineering. It will also serve as a useful reference for research scientists and engineers working in this field.
Author : Leo H. Holthuijsen
Publisher : Cambridge University Press
Page : 9 pages
File Size : 43,8 Mb
Release : 2010-02-04
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781139462525
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author : Mikhail B. Kanevsky
Publisher : Elsevier
Page : 208 pages
File Size : 44,5 Mb
Release : 2008-09-15
Category : Science
ISBN : 0080932517
This book is dedicated to studying the ocean with radar tools, in particular, with space radars. Being intended mainly for the scientists preoccupied with the problem (as well as senior course students), it concentrates and generalizes the knowledge scattered over specialized journals. The significant part of the book contains the results obtained by the author. * Systematically collects and describes the approaches used by different laboratories and institutions * Deals with the physics of radar imagery and specifically with ocean surface imagery. * Useful for students and researchers specializing in the area of ocean remote sensing using airborne or space-borne radars, both SAR and RAR
Author : Ian Young,Alexander Babanin
Publisher : World Scientific
Page : 396 pages
File Size : 41,5 Mb
Release : 2020-03-20
Category : Science
ISBN : 9789811208683
Ocean Wave Dynamics is the most up-to-date book of its kind on the three main processes responsible for the generation and evolution of ocean waves: (i) atmospheric input from the wind, (ii) wave breaking and (iii) nonlinear interactions.Ocean waves are important for many reasons. They are the major environmental impact on in the design of coastal or offshore structures. Ocean waves are also fundamental to the processes of coastal flooding and beach erosion. They will play a major role in storm related coastal flooding which will rise in frequency as a result of sea level rise. Ocean waves are also an important part of the coupled ocean-atmosphere system. They determine the roughness of the ocean surface and hence have an impact on winds, fluxes of energy, gases and heat to the ocean and even the stability of ice sheets.Containing the latest research on ocean waves, it is a valuable resource for an overview of knowledge in this important field.Related Link(s)
Author : Willard Bascom
Publisher : Anchor
Page : 528 pages
File Size : 43,9 Mb
Release : 1980
Category : Beaches
ISBN : UCSD:31822026182212
Author : The SWAMP Group
Publisher : Springer Science & Business Media
Page : 256 pages
File Size : 47,5 Mb
Release : 2013-11-22
Category : Science
ISBN : 9781475760552
Early in 1979, a group of wave researchers proposed a wave model inter comparison study to clarify the interrelations existing among the various wave models which have been developed in past years for real-time wave forecasting, wave statistics compilations, or hindcast case studies. The idea was immediately welcomed by the wave modeling community, and, finally, nine wave modeling groups from the United States, Japan, and Europe participated in the exercise. The principal results of this work are presented here jointly by the Sea Wave Modeling Project (swAMP) Group (the members of which are listed in Appendix A). Descriptions of the models used in the study are given in Part II of this volume. A more complete documentation of the entire set of numerical experiments is given in Part 2 of the Sea Wave Modeling Project (SWAMP group, 1982). The main purpose of the intercomparison study was to test our present understanding of the physics of . wind-generated surface waves from the viewpoint of wave modeling. Specifically, we wished to clarify the basic interdependence between understanding the physics of surface waves, repre senting the physics numerically, and predicting quantitatively the detailed space-time evolution of a two-dimensional surface wave spectrum for a given wind field. It was not our intent to carry out a model competition. In this sense there were no winners or losers: all models could claim specific strong points, and all displayed weaknesses in some areas.
Author : P.H. LeBlond,L.A. Mysak
Publisher : Elsevier
Page : 617 pages
File Size : 45,6 Mb
Release : 1981-01-01
Category : Science
ISBN : 9780080879772
This is a book which will be welcomed not only by researchers and engineers, but also by teachers and students, as it contains the only comprehensive review of the dynamics of ocean waves. Existing books are now either out of date or restricted to specialized aspects of the subject, whereas this book covers all types of ocean waves, ranging from capillary to planetary waves. Because of its completeness of coverage, its use of elementary mathematics and the provision of numerous problems and exercises, the book will be an indispensable text for everyone. It is completed by a very lengthy bibliography which includes many references to the Russian literature.
Author : Efim Pelinovsky,Christian Kharif
Publisher : Springer
Page : 236 pages
File Size : 52,7 Mb
Release : 2015-09-02
Category : Science
ISBN : 9783319215754
This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.